Sorry to start a new thread, but need some quick advice. I'm in the process of replacing the alternator. I've got it lose in the engine compartment. The service manual says to drop it from the underside. I don't see where there's enough clearance for it to just "drop". I've manipulated it in everyway possible and still no clearance. As an fyi, the sway bar isn't the problem. It appears "stuck" betweek where the alternator mounts on the bottom bolts and the frame. Any suggestions other than a sledgehammer!!

 

Okay I know see the modification to the service guide that rather than removing from the bottom, it should be removed from the top. Still a no go for me. Note, I have not removed the wideband silencer. Do I need to do this-would it help? Shoot me now!! But once I'm done, I'm sure I'll be glad I didn't pay the dealer/stealer $1200 (note they said min $1200)

 

mine was replaced in the summer. it is a very tight fit, but it came out the top. my dad did it while i was at work. he said getting it out through the top was a lot easier than trying to figure out a way out from the bottom. sorry i dont have more info. you will have to remove the air intake (simple) along with a few other things

 

What engine do you have? M271 of M111?

If the M271 then check out this thread and download the PDF document on how to remove the alternator.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-silencer.html

Good Luck

 

Thanks to everyone who replied back to this thread and my prior threads!! This forum has been a tremoundous help!! The alternator has been replaced, and all is well again. The battery/alternator warning is gone, hopefully for another 130,000 miles.

For those thinking of replacing an alternator on their 2005 C230:

First jack and support left front.
1. Disconnect neg. battery cable
2. Drop lower cover under engine
3. Remove air cover
4. Remove wideband silencer.
Two pipe clamps on right side hose, clip on left hose, pipe clamp above
and two torx screws.
5. Loosen and remove belt from pully using inverted torx socket on belt tensioner (to lower left of tensioner pully).
6. remove bolt from clip holding transmission line to bracket on alternator. This will make it much easer in removing the lower rear bolt from the alternator.
7. Remove the two lower bolts from alt. first, then upper two.
8. Remove alternator from front, then up. Contrary to what you may read, it does not come out from the bottom. Trust me!
Reinstall in reverse order.

Things I wish I had known. 1. The alternator comes out from the front top, thus you do not need to remove the left side of the sway bar. By the way, to reinstall the left side of the sway bar, you need to remove the one nut from the other side, loosen the two torx screws on the other side. Then reinstall the two torx screws on the left, leave all four torx slightly loosened, then replace the nuts on the two sides, then tighten all.

What should have taken maybe 3 hours tops, took 8 hours. But, I did it myself. The dealer wanted $1200 as a starting off point. The rebuilt alt. was $250. I don't consider the torx socket set an expense, but an investment. Besides, I picked up the set at Harbor Freight for $8.

Wish I had taken pictures....

 

Lets see 1200-250/8 = ~ 100 hr.
You paid yourself 100 an hour! Woo Hoo!!!

 

 

Nice work. I concur taking it out through the top is also the factory recommeded way.

 

I don't see it coming out any other way. YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE WIDEBAND SILENCER. Optionally, the Radiator fan must be loosened in order to wiggle the alternator out of the way and removing it from the top.

Glad it worked out.

 

Where can you purchase Inverted torx socket on belt tensioner? And what size is it ?

 

Get a good set.

http://www.google.com/search?q=torx+socket

They are properly known as an E-Torx socket. Some call them female torx sockets


Where I have room, I use my Lisle E-Torx sockets.

Lisle 26280 Torx Socket Set
Price: $25.78






Where it's tight for room near, I like:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4...13PC/206031060

Husky 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 in. E-Torx Socket Set
Includes socket storage rail
Guaranteed forever
$24.97 /each




.

 

So for the tensioner I need a number 10 male Torx? The termianlolgy I have been seeing varies. What is the correct name for the male Torx needed for the tensioner? Thanks in advanced Sir

 

And, yes, people call Torx bolts many different things.
Get a good sets of T-bits and E-Sockets, and you're all set.


Fwiw, I thought that the tensioner bolt needed a torx drive (bit - male).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torx

Basically, you want a
T???
or an
E???


========
Sizing:
Torx head sizes are described using the capital letter "T" followed by a number ranging from T1 to T100.[5] A smaller number corresponds to a smaller point-to-point dimension of the screw head (diameter of circle circumscribed on the cross-section of the tip of the screw driver). Common sizes include T10, T15, and T25, while T5.5, T35, and T47 tend to see specialized use. Only the proper driver can drive a specific head size without risk of damaging the driver or screw. The same series of Torx drivers is used to drive SAE, metric and other thread system fasteners, reducing the number of bit sizes required.

The "external" variants of Torx head sizes (see below) are described using the capital letter "E" followed by a number ranging from E4 to E44.[6] The "E" numbers are different from the "T" numbers of the same size: for example, an E4 Torx socket fits a T20 head.[5]
========


Torx bits:




Torx E-socket:



.

 

Thank You for clarifying. Its going to be a relief to fix this. The alternator/voltage regulator still works but anytime I put a load on the electrical syetem (AC, Headlights Windows) the motor will idle very rough. I can make the RPM's drop just by rolling up the windows. The only error code I am receiving is P0620 Generator Control Circuit. The test at AutoZone gave a fail on the voltage regulator so I am keeping my fingers crossed that this is the only thing I need to repair.

 

After replacing burnt up alternator my key is on dash is on, fuel pump is on but that's it . It doesn't even engage the starter...any clues as to what is messed up?

 

Check your battery voltage. If it's not even cranking then there is probably something wrong with the battery. It might've drained or cooked itself when your alternator died. Below a certain voltage the car will not crank. Safety feature.