Ok since some of you have asked me to do a DIY on how to install the kit here goes.

Here are the tools you'll need to do the install. You may try other tools, but theres are the ones I found quickest to remove the bolts and control arm.

18mm wrench (I would suggest ratcheting wrenches for both)
19mm wrench
vice grip
large long flat head or something to slightly bend the inner bushing bracket (I used a bushing removal fork)
hammer (optional, but probably wont need)
silicone spray lube (optional)
car jack
jack stands
Measuring tape

If you want to shell out and spend a little money and dont want to use the ratcheting wrenches, you can buy this open socket ratchet set from kobalt. I love this tool, i've used it on installing my coilovers and other things.




Ok... on to the install now guys.

1. Loosen your rear lug bolts.
2. Place a block or something to stop the car from rolling infront of the front wheel.
3. Jack up your rear, either in middle (make sure its the frame) or by each side at the designated spots behind the side skirts.
4. Once the car is at workable height, place jack stands underneath the car.
5. Remove the wheels and set aside.
6. Here you want to locate the control arm that is close to the strut/spring.
Its the arm in the middle of the picture.



7. You want to remove the nut that is closest to you or one connected to the brake system. Here I used the vice grip on the torx bolt because the torx size is huge and I didnt have the size (its greater than a T50). Use the 18mm wrench on the nut and remove it. Just remove the nut after that, you dont have to remove the arm yet.




8. Now onto the inner bolt and nut. Using a 19mm wrench on the bolt side and a 18mm wrench on the nut side. Once the nut is off you might have to continue ratcheting the bolt to remove it from the bushing.



9. Once the bolt is off, grab your long flat head, or something to slightly bend the bracket so that the arm can drop downward.
10. After the arm is off the bracket, you can now remove the other end of the arm off. It might take some wiggling to remove it but it'll come off.
11. Now time to install the camber kit. Have the bushing screwed all the down as far as possible, but not tight, you want it loose so you can hand turn the body to get bolt hole to line up on the inner bracket.
12. First install the end closest to you/on the brake system. Place the bolt on but do not tighten it.



13. Now you can slide the inner bushing in, this is where you want to turn the body of the kit so you can line up the hole so you can put the bolt in. It may take a little time you might have to ratchet the bolt in to get it started.



14. After the bolts are in and the nuts are on, tighten them down with the tools you used to remove them.





15. Now you can do your measure the recommended length Mel suggested. He says to measure 12" from center bolt hole to center bolt hole. For this I measured the side with the nut and got as close to the center bolt as could for each end.
16. To adjust the length, use the crescent wrench and use it to turn the body of the kit. Make sure the locking nuts are loosened all the way up to the bushing. Once you get to the desired length, you can now tighten the locking nuts.
17. NOW YOUR DONE! ALMOST... just reinstall your wheels and remove your jack stands and place your car back on the ground. Your car may at first look like it has positive camber, but wait 30 mins or so to let your suspension settle back down.

NOW YOUR DONE! HOPE THIS HELPS... remember this is just how I did the install, I'm not liable for anything that you do to your car

 

Great DIY!!! How do you like the camber arms? They look like their good quality.

 

Great quality! I like the hex body of the kit because you dont have to remove your tire everytime if you want to adjust your camber. Just jack up your car a little, put some stands under your car and you can easily access the kit to adjust it.

 

good DIY.. still looks like Home depot quality to me.

 

well home depot quality stuff is used to build houses

 

true that

I don't know ghostriders camber arms might not look "cute" but they looks more heavy duty to me

 

Good write up. They def look heavy duty to me too. For the price I don't think you can go wrong with those..

 

The bushings are definitely top quality and the body is rock solid. These are built just as good as SPC, Ingalls, or any other brand name camber kit, they just have their names imprinted on them and have polished or anodized colors.

This Ingalls kit looks like the same build quality as Mel's

 

wow... big thanks!

my only question is... how do i find out the proper length to make the camber? your DIY suggests 12''.. is that standard for both coupe and sedans regardless of ride height?

 

You can measure the overall length of the kit from one end to the next or you can measure from the center hole of the bushing to the other center hole. I did mine from center hole to center hole. Mel recommended 12" which was perfect. I think the over length is about 13", but once you get it around that area you can have it professionally aligned and they'll dial it in perfect for you.

 

thanks... unfortunately, i dont know of any shops that will do a custom alignment. i called around (merchants, indie shop, etc...) but they all refuse to touch/adjust anything not to stock specifications. i guess i have to shop around still before i find a place that can do it.

at least i know the installation is something i can do myself... thanks

 

Nice write up!

 

Race shops are the best. Look around for a good race team shop, they will be doing it old school most likely, but they are usually very good.

 

Lol houses in cali are made cheap now adays.. Talk about paper walls.. I threw a 20 pound weight at the side of my room and it went through the wall LOL. Mom almost killed me

The pro-1's are thicker all the way around. Sorry the thing looks cheap to me

 

Works great though.

 

Well house walls are made of sheet rock that are less than an inch thick usually. Throwing any 20 lb weight is going to cause damage to a wall.

lol its to each their own

 

youre crazy
thatll usually happen tho

i think these will be fine. don't seem to have any build flaws and is much more cost effective.

 

Great write up. I am meeting Melvin Saturday to get my set. After seeing the DIY I just may attempt it. Although, Melvin has turned me onto a shop that will install and align in our home town.

Just need the weather here to straighten up. Snow and below Zero temps suck.

 

yea I was glad I did it that day, the next day it was 19 out and wind chill was like -10 here with winds gusting to 40mph... its a pretty straight forward install. -

 

I'll see you there on Saturday
My c350 can meet your clk350

 

awesome I'm glad everyone is helping a fellow sponsor on here and getting his product going. You wont regret getting this kit, for the price, functionality, and build its top notice in my book.

 

Phister

So there is no way to set the camber arm to 12" then install it?

Or is it pretty easy to do the measurement from center of bolt to center of after install?

 

theres really no way because it'll be a pain to try to push the brake system in to make the bolt holes match up with the kit. You'll have to adjust the kit all the way down and then gradually turn the kit till it matches up with the holes. But measuring is pretty easy, you and either do it by the full kit length from end to end and that measures around 13" or you can do center hole to center hole... I'd recommend a measuring tape because it'll be easy to measure, but its fairly easy.

 

phister are you doing anything wrt the camber in the front?

 

the fronts actually sit pretty straight, since the rears drop so much it gets pretty negative.