MAF removal, With delicious picture goodness.
So here is my quick write up with childish annotations.
1. Get open the hood.

2.Remove the front intake tubes, if you pull them toward you they will come right off, no drama necissary.

3. I've read horror stories about people breaking the clips while removing their engine covers so I took particular while removing, and thought I'd share my method that worked quite well.
Lift up at the front, and watch it till the shroud clears the oil fill cap. Once it clears, pull it straight toward you. It should come off quite easily. if you feel like it isn't going to clear the oil fill cap without breaking, then remove the cap, but make sure to put a rag in the hole to keep debris from falling in.

4. Remove the rear part of the shroud, this is the piece that contains your air filers, and directly interfaces with the MAF and by extension the intake. Just pull up on the front, and once that is loose, pull up on the back.

Now you're engine compartment should look something like this

The piece you are looking for is in the back right smack dab in the middle. It looks like this.

Or from the other side.

If yours is anything like mine, than this little bugger will be the bane of your existence for quite a while. I hope that my explanation of how to get this off will save you from the fate that I had.
Looking at the following two pictures, you will see how the connector connects. Understanding this is the first step toward eternal happiness.


Even thought it goes against everything your previous experiences have told you, push down on the two clips, and pull it firmly out. Using a wiggle motions while doing so may hurt your reputation at the biker bar, but will make this task a lot easier. I did that AFTER I un-seated the MAF because I couldn't figure it out before, now that I understand the connection I won't have to do that again.
The two arrows in the picture are the clips that hold the MAF to the manifold. I removed them by hand.

After these two clips are released, take this hose, and move it to the other side of the hook type holder.

Rotate the MAF backward while reaching behind to release the metal clip on the back. (Sorry couldn't get a good shot of it)
Should look like this once out, Congrats, you've just removed you MAF!

And once it's out you'll be confused as I was that this little thing could cause so much trouble.

So I can't see it doing anything terrible. I'll replace it when I put the new one in.
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Last edited by pcy; Feb 14, 2011 at 09:57 AM.
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I beleive he has diferent kind of cap with no lock-pin.
Xhale, that's just mean... I took the trouble of taking delightful pictures (hopefully providing more clarity to others than I had when I started this task), and all that I've gotten is mocking, and people pointing out how ugly my car is ON THE INSIDE. I'm taking my ball and going home.
BTW, Just kidding, I know there isn't any hate meant.
I was actually referring to the TRANS fill tube cap - refer to picture # 11 in mskembo's original post.
I was actually referring to the TRANS fill tube cap - refer to picture # 11 in mskembo's original post.
Sorry guys, on my engine 272 transmission tube is right there and for engine oil is on front. BTW I bought 5 lock pins at dealership $1.25 each.
Last edited by ontmiss; Feb 14, 2011 at 10:26 PM.
just got me the tranny dipstick tool so I went to my local stealership to pick up the lock pin.
they charged me $2 a pop... bought a few just so I won't have to drive all the way back to the stealership if I popped it off again.
kinda stupid they call it a "lock" pin.
talked to a tech about it as I was curious as to how they lock.
he basically told me it's more of a seal then a lock.
just something MB cooked up so they can tell if you messed with the tranny in the first 4 years of it's life. (hence why you can't get the black ones)
anyway, back to the MAF cleaning.
I wish the MAF was that easily accessible on the M271... dang you MB!

good job OP!
On-line places sell that lock pin for less than a dollar like 65 cents or something. Whenever I order parts online, I usually throw in stuff like this - lock pin for trans fill cap, oil filler cap gasket, gas cap gasket, oil drain plug gasket, trans drain plug gasket, etc.
On-line places sell that lock pin for less than a dollar like 65 cents or something. Whenever I order parts online, I usually throw in stuff like this - lock pin for trans fill cap, oil filler cap gasket, gas cap gasket, oil drain plug gasket, trans drain plug gasket, etc.
bah!
I think you can drive without the lock pin and I don't think the cap will pop off.
but you are right. it does "lock"... but as it was explained to me by the tech, only secondary function to it's main purpose.
sly, cleaver MB engineers...

where can you get the pins for 65 cents? both autohausaz and rmeuropean have them for $1.20-1.30 range...
Thanks.
Part # 41 is an o-ring. This is what SEALS the cap to the tube.
Part # 40 is the cap. It's purpose is to COVER the fill tube opening.
Part # 42 is the lock-pin. It's purpose is to ensure the cap doesn't come off. This lock-pin ensures the cap is pressed against the seal and the fill-tube. The cap hugs and stays with the seal when the lock-pin is inserted. Again, the lock-pin is locking the cap to the fill tube.
Not having the lock-pin doesn't mean the cap will come-off. Not having the lock-pin leaves a small hole in the cap; dust may go in, albeit small amount.
I was wrong about 65 cents for the lock-pin. I thought that's what I paid last time when I bought.
Last edited by pcy; Feb 15, 2011 at 05:46 PM.
Part # 41 is an o-ring. This is what SEALS the cap to the tube.
Part # 40 is the cap. It's purpose is to COVER the fill tube opening.
Part # 42 is the lock-pin. It's purpose is to ensure the cap doesn't come off. This lock-pin ensures the cap is pressed against the seal and the fill-tube. The cap hugs and stays with the seal when the lock-pin is inserted. Again, the lock-pin is locking the cap to the fill tube.
Not having the lock-pin doesn't mean the cap will come-off. Not having the lock-pin leaves a small hole in the cap; dust may go in, albeit small amount.
I was wrong about 65 cents for the lock-pin. I thought that's what I paid last time when I bought.

tech's point was:
MB could have made the cap like the one on the oil "dipstick" tube.
locking pin was not necessary. it's main purpose was to give indication to the techs when they work on the car, to let them know if the tranny could possibly been messed with by the owner or indi while under warranty.
fair enough statement?
I pretty much got the jest that I could put tape over the hole and drive with it without the lock pin and it would be fine.
again, not arguing with you. it was a point the tech brought up that I found interesting.
I appreciate your contribution to the forum and your knowledge.


