m111-flushing coolant from the block
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c200k
m111-flushing coolant from the block
I'm looking to change my coolant, thermostat, and hoses for this coming summer and I would like to flush the block as well. Is there a drain for the block on these engines?
Other problem is trying to figure out which coolant. Since I'm in Germany, we get Glysantin. Commonly available is the g30 and g48. The latter is listed as an acceptable replacement and my car already has the blue stuff in it. Has it ever been established what version the blue is?
Other problem is trying to figure out which coolant. Since I'm in Germany, we get Glysantin. Commonly available is the g30 and g48. The latter is listed as an acceptable replacement and my car already has the blue stuff in it. Has it ever been established what version the blue is?
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Here in the states, my car came with blue from germany,
but the replacement stuff, either from Mercedes or Xerex G-05 is
yellow. No one sells blue coolant.
but the replacement stuff, either from Mercedes or Xerex G-05 is
yellow. No one sells blue coolant.
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c200k
Ok, looks like I'll use the g48. Just have to figure out how to remove the residual in the block. It is a consideration to check with the dealer on the longlife coolant and those packets for a quasi-retrofit.
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
The stuff is blue from Germany. All the stuff sold by Benz in SA is blue & yes it is Glysantin.
My car's is blue.
My car's is blue.
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c200k
Do you know which Glysantin? I can go into any shop here, including the supermarket, and they have several different types. Would like to keep it as original as possible.
Any words on block draining?
Any words on block draining?
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Glysantin G 05 BASF SE, Ludwigshafen/Deutschland
Glysantin G 48 BASF SE, Ludwigshafen/Deutschland
Glysantin Protect BASF SE, Ludwigshafen/Deutschland
Glysantin Protect Plus BASF SE, Ludwigshafen/Deutschland
All are approved & G30 is approved as premixed extended life. Unless you are going to leave it there for 15 years & put a silica gel sachet in the surge tank it frankly does not matter.
I suspect that the latest initial fill might be G30. Although that might only be in diesels.
Flush the block with a hose when cool.
Glysantin G 48 BASF SE, Ludwigshafen/Deutschland
Glysantin Protect BASF SE, Ludwigshafen/Deutschland
Glysantin Protect Plus BASF SE, Ludwigshafen/Deutschland
All are approved & G30 is approved as premixed extended life. Unless you are going to leave it there for 15 years & put a silica gel sachet in the surge tank it frankly does not matter.
I suspect that the latest initial fill might be G30. Although that might only be in diesels.
Flush the block with a hose when cool.
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c200k
In addition to not having hose access because I live in a city, and punishments with prison time if I am caught releasing coolant into the environment, is there a proper drain or a hose near the lowest point of the system in the block? Flushing the block will typically leave the water there as well and I want to try to make the mix as precise as possible.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Last edited by sknight; Mar 10, 2011 at 03:49 AM.
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Oops yes! - German sensibilities. You will have to catch what you drain.
See 44 in diagram down LHS of engine block facing it from the front. Bad EPC diagram sorry. Some M111 engines have a plug (44) as shown in the diagram & some a tap.
See 44 in diagram down LHS of engine block facing it from the front. Bad EPC diagram sorry. Some M111 engines have a plug (44) as shown in the diagram & some a tap.
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c200k
As always, thanks Glyn. I'll look out for it. To be honest, I can't trust anyone here to replace all of it, rather than just the stuff they can get and I want to be sure, since I drive through many foreign countries at a time. It's not even out of the question to proactively replace my radiator due to that reasoning, to be honest, but I still have only about 60k miles on the clock, so there's time.
I'll look for that access piece and hopefully it won't be rusted to hell.
I'll look for that access piece and hopefully it won't be rusted to hell.
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From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Honestly, the amount left in the block isn't worth the trouble.
I just drain and fill every 2 years or 50K miles.
Use Distilled water!!!
The minerals and chemicals in tap water, when superheated
will get to work on things.
My mechanic is always shocked to learn I have yet to replace the water pump.
Not even a minor amount of residue at the shaft.
But come to find out he uses tap water. Which apparently results in
premature failure of the water pump front seal.
Seriously, it's just a matter of keeping up on the maint. and doing things right,
and using the right stuff.
I'm close to 167K miles, and still running very strong.
Glyn, can anyone convert to the longer life coolant plan as you describe?
Use a different coolant and the Silica packet and go 150K miles between changes?
That came out like the year after my car.
I just drain and fill every 2 years or 50K miles.
Use Distilled water!!!
The minerals and chemicals in tap water, when superheated
will get to work on things.
My mechanic is always shocked to learn I have yet to replace the water pump.
Not even a minor amount of residue at the shaft.
But come to find out he uses tap water. Which apparently results in
premature failure of the water pump front seal.
Seriously, it's just a matter of keeping up on the maint. and doing things right,
and using the right stuff.
I'm close to 167K miles, and still running very strong.
Glyn, can anyone convert to the longer life coolant plan as you describe?
Use a different coolant and the Silica packet and go 150K miles between changes?
That came out like the year after my car.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Mar 10, 2011 at 01:06 PM.
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c200k
Well, the past of the coolant is not in the books, most likely because it was an extremely low mileage model, rarely driven. The coolant still looks quite good, but I have no real way of knowing for sure, so I don't want to take the chance. Same for wanting to flush the block- we have extremely hard water in Germany, so I want to get out what I can.
Anyhow, off to buy a couple liters of G48.
Anyhow, off to buy a couple liters of G48.
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Yes Todd - I can't personally imagine myself leaving coolant in an engine for that long but there is no reason not to go the longlife route with silicate top up.
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c200k
Killer, went to the supermarket and the g48 was gone, except for a lone bottle marked down from 9.99 (euros) to 4.99. Investigated more, found them in the clearance section. Scored six bottles (1.5L), and I'm set for about two changes. I'm likely going to change the thermostat if they're relatively cheap, then compile the list of hoses, which I'm sure is extensive, and then find out if I can use those silica packets with this stuff to extend the life a bit, but not the whole term Mercedes claims.
Edit: with only 60k miles on the car, I'm wondering if I'm being over prudent with the hose change, especially when I'm considering changing the radiator before I have a problem at between 100-120k miles. I can't imagine them being cheap, nor an in and out job, unless I can be proven wrong?
Edit: with only 60k miles on the car, I'm wondering if I'm being over prudent with the hose change, especially when I'm considering changing the radiator before I have a problem at between 100-120k miles. I can't imagine them being cheap, nor an in and out job, unless I can be proven wrong?
Last edited by sknight; Mar 11, 2011 at 05:29 PM.
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c200k
Checked the color of the g48, it's the dark blue/purple, same as what's in the car. I know that's not diagnostic, but perhaps it indicates my coolant was changed in the past and not documented, since I believe g05 was in use when it was made. I don't know, but better to be safe than sorry, I guess. Plus, 9 liters for the price of 4.5. Can't beat that.
Oh yeah, what is the fluid level in the overflow tank supposed to be? I didn't see markings outside, nor inside. I'm guessing just enough to cover that "septum" that is visible when the cap is opened, but not sure. My cold level is slightly below, so I'm guessing warm allows the transfer over it.
Oh yeah, what is the fluid level in the overflow tank supposed to be? I didn't see markings outside, nor inside. I'm guessing just enough to cover that "septum" that is visible when the cap is opened, but not sure. My cold level is slightly below, so I'm guessing warm allows the transfer over it.
