Anyone replace their wheel bearings themselves? Any special tools needed? Any advice?

 

definitely an impact gun to remove the lock nut holding the hub on. Think its like a 30mm socket for the nut.

 

if its a 4matic you need a press if not your ok impact gun will help big time

 

What do i torque the lugs back to? i do have a press if needed, but i don't 4matic

 

Check your owners manual I think it is 120 Pounds

 

if it is the front bearings DO NOT USE AN IMPACT GUN.

there is a lock screw on the clamping hub ~11Nm (96in lbs) the clamp nut is tighten by feel ensuring enough end float

The bearing outer races are drifted out and use the old races to drift in the new outer races

Wheel lugs are 80ft-lbs, (120ft lbs will strip the threads - not sure where you are getting your specs from)

It is not a hard job, took me about an hour start to finish for each side

Rear bearings need to be pressed in and not DIY task. Perhaps the bearings come with the hub as with many other cars and replaced as a unit. The rear hub nut is torqued to 162ft-lbs

@Contact148 if you looked at e24kgold sidebar it says that he has a 2005 230K SS and that does not come in 4matic

 

some conflicting info on the impact gun...

anyone have the actual instructions?

 

You have not mentioned front or rear ?. Here are the front instructions from Haynes. I cannot find the torque settings ..slack b#stards!!

 

Thanks for the info!

Front bearings btw

 

according to my pdf owners manual we are both wrong
110ft.lb or 150Nm
I wonder if different models have different torque.

Edit
so just got the 05 owners manual it is 80ft.lb or 110Nm WTF
so i suggest everyone look at there certain cars owners manual and do what yours says to do.

 

I never come across a car that needs 110ft lbs+ for wheel lugs/bolts. The general range is 80-85ft lbs

 

There are no torque settings for floating bearings, they are adjusted by end float. If there is a torque setting it tends to be fairly low to seat and then backed off by one flat for cars that use a castlated nut or punched nut. Our cars have a clamp nut that the locking mechanism is tightened once you have enough float either done by experience or a dial gauge


Pressed sealed bearings in a hub have a torque setting and that can range from 150ft lbs to 250 ft lbs depending on the car and manufacturer

 

Thanks Boom vang. The torque setting for the' Hub Nut clamp bolt ''is 11 Nn or 8 ft lb.

E 24 K GOLD .. How many miles has your car done to warrant changing the front wheel brgs. ?

I have not seen any servicing requirements ie repacking front wheel bearings on these cars. It may be a good idea to re pack every 60,000 km or so. My Peugeot service book states every 30,0000 km which I have done.

 

the torque setting is exactly what I posted many days ago for the clamp nut. I had to replace the drivers side of wheel bearings at 96,000km. May have hit a big pot hole

 

Decided to take my car to my indy. Turns out the bearings are fine but my POS Sumitomo HTR A/S P01 's are just ****ing noisy. I mean noisy enough to convince me I had a bad wheel bearing. Tread life has been great but this noise is killing me. DWS's on the way!

 

Ha, saw the thread and was gonna say it could be your tires, but now you already know.
Had the same problem with Federal Taiwan tires SS505 or something like that.
Man I thought the diff was about to blow or wheel bearings or the tranny.
Nope, just the 2 tires. Still have 'em in the garage.

 

If the sound changes when swerving from left to right, it's most likely a wheel bearing issue.

 

Or a Conti tyre issue. SC2 & SC3 both make a different & louder noise when partially worn & you change direction - and you can feel the slight vibration in the steering.

 

Anything for the M272 replacement?

 

Been prepping for this job to do on 02 C240. Seems like the biggest hurtle are the races. What is best way and special tools recommended to change out the inner and outer races. Thanks