tingyangs6

I'm tired of paying hundreds of dollars and then some at my local dealer on brake pads... In the past I had been changing my brake pads on honda and toyotas but ever since I got my C230, I always take it to the dealer. But it's too costly now, I was thinking about doing it myself. Any pointers out there and what will be my best friend (regarding to tools)? I'm also looking at quotes at private shops because people tell me not to do it myself because I will mess things up. Any advice is welcome.

W203E35

I purchase my brake pads from rmeuropean.com and I go for the Jurid brand because that's basically OEM but not in the benz packaging (same company that makes it for benz). Front is around 80 bucks and rear is around 60 bucks (price is rounded up). Then sensors if they are shot (if you get the brake wear message on the screen) are around 5 bucks each but Jurid supplies you with free sensors. If you don't have the brake wear message then the sensors are not shot and you can reuse them.

Take off wheel and on the caliper there are pins. Stick something in there to hammer the pin out. Once you get the pin out there is a metal clip that will fall off. Push the pistons back (I use the worn brake pads to push the piston back) but try not to push them all the way back. Just enough to be able to fit the new pads in.

Once you fit the new pads in put the clip back and slip the pins in place (might need to give it a gentle hammer to get them in nicely. Also take not that the clip is set incorrectly. If it touches the rotor it will grind and make noise. If everything is good and the pins are flush with the caliper you are done.

That's a brake pad change in a nutshell.

Edit:
The rear is similar. Also if you have to change the sensor too make sure you locate the pad with the hole in it. (the pad has a hole where the sensor slips into) The sensor is on the passenger side (front and rear). Recently I was in a hurry to change my pads and I put the pad with the hold on the left side. I couldn't fit the sensor so I just taped it to the caliper since I was too lazy to redo it.

Silver C

Have a check on some DiY of those pads, if you are quite handy, you should be able to do it quite easily with proper tools. Good luck buddy!

phister

I use akebono pads and love them. OEM stopping but with hardly any brake dust. Do as karo said and it should be straight forward. Its about the same as changing the pads on an Lexus IS or any car that that uses a pin to lock the
pads. Also be sure to bleed your brakes in the proper order.

carbonfiberwhor

Karo, where were you for my thread?


https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ttle-help.html


Some input would be great

e1000

You're going to kick yourself when you find out how easy it is to change the pads on a Sport Sedan.

jogger

it is really easy using the instructions here. i purchased Jurid from RMeuropean and did not come with sensors.

tingyangs6

I heard that you have to change the rotors too when changing brake pads... Or are they just trying to hustle me?

e1000

They're just trying to hustle you. Just like any other rotor out there, measure for minimum thickness. When I had my car I replaced the rotors every other pad change.

vdubpower

is it still ok to turn rotors,

what is the criteria to do such a thing, for front or rear??

e1000

If there is no pulsation while braking, there's no need to turn or machine rotors. It's pretty rare that pulsation develops on the multi-piston sport brakes.

carbonfiberwhor

It developed on mine

Norwichdelta06

proper order? And it is true you need to change your rotors each brake job you do?

phister

No you don't have to change the rotors every pad change.

Grey Rabbit

You shouldn't need to bleed the breaks for a break pad change?? Am i right in saying this? The system is still closed unless you're taking off the cap.

mleskovar

Bedding in new pads may be one of the most important steps for the whole process.....other than putting it together correctly Good high temp grease like ceramic based is also important.

phil240

If your car has 4 piston calipers then it could be a bit more difficult to change but not likely e1000 is right it is like all rotors you have to measure thickness,but what he probably doesnt know is that european cars have softer metal in the rotors to help keep the noise down etc.. The other thing to remember is that if you put new pads on with out doing anything to the rotor then it will take a little longer for the full braking effectiveness to be had even with a proper bed in as the used rotors have grooves that are worn in from the old pad.

Im not saying you need to change or cut them,but most of the time rotors are cheap and now are more or less a throw away part. (unless you have the 4 pot system then they get pricey)

tingyangs6

Just got done changing my rotors and pads. It was pretty simple. It took me half the day because I didn't have a dead blower and c clamp. I encourage anybody who has a c class to do it by themselves. Spent $300 on parts and save $200 on labor. About the brake bleeding, I just open up the cap and pump the brakes a few times. Thanks members for advice!

vdubpower

whats a dead blower

phil240

i think he meant dead blow hammer.

BigAlC230K

Where did you end up buying your parts?

Price on pads and rotors please

BigAlC230K

From where? Price on rotors and pads

vdubpower

how often are u guys changing rear rotors or pads??

S4 John

That is not how you bleed brakes. If you are manually bleeding brakes you need to open the bleeder valve on the caliper and have someone push the pedal down. You have a hose connected to the bleeder valve and the fluid will empty into a container. Then, you close the bleeder valve before they release the pedal. You do this for all four corners. Starting with the longest brake lines which I beleive are the passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front and finally driver front. You need to monitor the brake fluid level and constantly fill it up.

markinnaples

Ugh. OK, I was changing my front pads when I removed the four bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket and brake fluid started leaking out until I put the lower bolt back and tightened it up when it stopped leaking.

Do I have a cracked caliper possibly?

The brake line is intact and doesn't appear to be leaking.

It's a 2005 C230K sedan, thanks.