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HELP?! C240 Subwoofer and Amp Installation!

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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 11:22 PM
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2004 C240
Exclamation HELP?! C240 Subwoofer and Amp Installation!

Hey guys,

New to the forum. I have a 2004 C240. I'm getting two 12" Subs and an Amp tomorrow. I was wondering how to install all this instead of having to pay to get it installed.

Does my HU have a RCA Amp output?

There's a factory amp right? So how do I bypass that to use my amp or just put it parallel?

Any videos or DIYs on here that I could refer to?

I appreciate all the help. I've been stalking this forum for awhile just decided to join now
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 12:11 AM
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The factory amp is inside the head unit, unless you have premium audio, then there is a separate amp. It is in the trunk on the right rear wheel arch.

The Head Unit (HU) has no RCA or electric line level output. It has speaker output in standard trim, and optical output in premium trim. If you have Tele-Aid, a disc changer, satellite radio, or a phone interface the fiber optic loop called D2B in your model year is active.

System components for MY2005 and later are different with the optical system called MOST. They are not interchangeable.

The speaker output for your car is not the popular 4/8 ohm impedance, rather Bose made it different for their own engineering purposes. Makes it hard to change loudspeakers to another brand.

I am not sure why you would want two twelve inch Subs, because a single properly placed 10 inch will pack your kester into the next zip code.

If your new amp has a speaker level input, and the input is a high impedance opto-coupled type, you will be fine. Power is available on the rear SAM, and the sound level wires can be fished out of the door sill channels.

If you are not experienced with the Benz electrical system, you might want to find a shop that does work on them. A small wiring error can burn instantly through a tall pile of Benjamin's.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 10:54 AM
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^+1 just make sure you get a proper ground. You're going to have to run the power wire to the front so don't break panels. You can just buy a pretty good inexpensive hi-to low converter and tap off the rear factory sub for an rca pre-out. What kind of equipment are you using? Wire and all
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 12:31 PM
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It is not necessary to run a power cable to the front of the car. There is a # 8 wire from the battery to the rear SAM. I have installed several sub amps using that as a source. Ground post is also in the trunk. I don't recommend Hi to Lo converters because of their tendency to hum. An amp with opto coupled hi level inputs is better. Look at the Infinity group offerings. Face the radiator at the back seat, and apply sound attenuation material to the package shelf, unless you enjoy that sympathetic vibration rattle sound added to your source material.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 04:42 PM
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Why would you want 2 X 12" subs?? Search for thread on this very subject by Wardsweb.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
Why would you want 2 X 12" subs?? Search for thread on this very subject by Wardsweb.
I originally wanted 10's but my local shop was out and sold me the 12's for the price of 10's. I think the only real difference in my application is I have the gain turned down. I wasn't looking for a one note thumper.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...pictorial.html
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Moviela
It is not necessary to run a power cable to the front of the car. There is a # 8 wire from the battery to the rear SAM. I have installed several sub amps using that as a source. Ground post is also in the trunk. I don't recommend Hi to Lo converters because of their tendency to hum. An amp with opto coupled hi level inputs is better. Look at the Infinity group offerings. Face the radiator at the back seat, and apply sound attenuation material to the package shelf, unless you enjoy that sympathetic vibration rattle sound added to your source material.
-sounds like someone is a bit on the lazy side. i'd never ever do that.

-cars have a tendency to break down, let's all stop driving cars and just use trains instead. or are cars different and some are built better than others?

-if you think those work well

-why? infinity sucks on all aspects. (fact, not PO)
-using sound deadening stick on material will not stop flexing of that deck, just rattle.

don't ask how i came to the conclusion for all of my responses, for i will just reply by saying that i'm totally new to car audio and have no idea what the hell i'm talking about.

Last edited by MIKESV8; Jul 14, 2011 at 06:06 PM.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 09:38 PM
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I strongly recommend that a few of you read & understand the "Thiele-Small parameters" when deciding on driver sizes & enclosures or you will always have crap bass performance.
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Old Jul 16, 2011 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
I strongly recommend that a few of you read & understand the "Thiele-Small parameters" when deciding on driver sizes & enclosures or you will always have crap bass performance.
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