AT transmission problem
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 318
Likes: 1
2006 C230 SS
yeah,but isn't it too late to change it now? i mean it say its the cause but since it's already messed up, i'm not sure if it will solve the issue. It will prevent further problems though.
my indy and another transmission mechanic said changing the oil will not fix the problem
Has there been any conductor plate success story? There's conductor plates for our model in eBay haha
my indy and another transmission mechanic said changing the oil will not fix the problem
Has there been any conductor plate success story? There's conductor plates for our model in eBay haha
Last edited by SkankZ; Feb 26, 2012 at 02:05 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
c230 2002
So I bought a 722.600.
First thing I noticed. The transmission have a PLIL (Park lock interlock linkage) that I have to remove. I just decideded to remove the small spring in it so it will never lock the park position.
Second thing, the output flange that bolt on the flexdisc and on the driveshaft is not the same size. So now I have to find a 30mm 12 pan socket to be able to change this flange with one of my 722.616. I wish everything will be ok...
First thing I noticed. The transmission have a PLIL (Park lock interlock linkage) that I have to remove. I just decideded to remove the small spring in it so it will never lock the park position.
Second thing, the output flange that bolt on the flexdisc and on the driveshaft is not the same size. So now I have to find a 30mm 12 pan socket to be able to change this flange with one of my 722.616. I wish everything will be ok...
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19,942
Likes: 192
From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Early cars had cable operated interlock. Not an issue - just remove or get out of the way.
Change the flange & fit a new seal.
Change the flange & fit a new seal.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
c230 2002
ok I just installed the transmission.
Everything seems to work fine.
But I'm still having a noise comming from the transmission tunnel. I think it's the driveshaft center bearing. I'll confirm that this weekend.
Everything seems to work fine.
But I'm still having a noise comming from the transmission tunnel. I think it's the driveshaft center bearing. I'll confirm that this weekend.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,263
Likes: 169
From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Whats a 12 pan socket? 30mm? 
Glad to hear it's resolved.
Did you swap out the tranny's yourself?
Did the TCU in the car work? Or did you replace it?
What did you pay for the trans, and where did you buy it?
Tragic that your trans crapped out with so few miles.
I wonder what the real trouble was? Hard to believe it wasn't something electronic.
When you pull out the valve body, does it just drop out the bottom?
Unbolt and drop it out? I've read there's a bunch of springs and ball bearings that can fall out, or
is that not true?
Sounds scary to me. I've never messed with transmission internals.
Did you ever check to see what radiator you have, or had?
Was there glycol in the fluid, and it damaged the transmission?
Congratulations!
Glad to hear it's resolved.
Did you swap out the tranny's yourself?
Did the TCU in the car work? Or did you replace it?
What did you pay for the trans, and where did you buy it?
Tragic that your trans crapped out with so few miles.
I wonder what the real trouble was? Hard to believe it wasn't something electronic.
When you pull out the valve body, does it just drop out the bottom?
Unbolt and drop it out? I've read there's a bunch of springs and ball bearings that can fall out, or
is that not true?
Sounds scary to me. I've never messed with transmission internals.
Did you ever check to see what radiator you have, or had?
Was there glycol in the fluid, and it damaged the transmission?
Congratulations!
So I bought a 722.600.
First thing I noticed. The transmission have a PLIL (Park lock interlock linkage) that I have to remove. I just decideded to remove the small spring in it so it will never lock the park position.
Second thing, the output flange that bolt on the flexdisc and on the driveshaft is not the same size. So now I have to find a 30mm 12 pan socket to be able to change this flange with one of my 722.616. I wish everything will be ok...
First thing I noticed. The transmission have a PLIL (Park lock interlock linkage) that I have to remove. I just decideded to remove the small spring in it so it will never lock the park position.
Second thing, the output flange that bolt on the flexdisc and on the driveshaft is not the same size. So now I have to find a 30mm 12 pan socket to be able to change this flange with one of my 722.616. I wish everything will be ok...
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Mar 10, 2012 at 02:07 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
c230 2002
Whats a 12 pan socket? 30mm? Yes something like this:http://www.ultimategarage.com/shop/p...oducts_id=1469
Need to be "long" and not short. This is to remove the driveshaft 3 bolt flange that had a different bolt pattern (722.600 vs 722.616)
Did you swap out the tranny's yourself? Yes
Did the TCU in the car work? Or did you replace it? I didn't touch the electronics. The 722.600 work with my original TCU and without any reprogrammation. I only put the car in dyno mode, I shift all gears manually and after that is was working well.
What did you pay for the trans, and where did you buy it? A guy who buy damaged cars for US and I paid 750.
Tragic that your trans crapped out with so few miles.
I wonder what the real trouble was? Hard to believe it wasn't something electronic.
I'm pretty sure that the problem was the valve body like the first mechanic told me. This is exactly my trouble: http://www.mercedesdismantlers.com//7226.html
When you pull out the valve body, does it just drop out the bottom?
Unbolt and drop it out?
Sounds scary to me. I've never messed with transmission internals.
Yes. To remove the valve body it take less than 1 hour. It's really easy.
Drain the transmission oil. Remove the connector housing on the side of the transmission with a 7mm socket. Then remove 6 T-30 bolts to remove the oil pan, then remove the oil filter, then 10 T-30 bolts to remove the valve body and that's all.
Did you ever check to see what radiator you have, or had?
Was there glycol in the fluid, and it damaged the transmission?
Congratulations!
No, I dont know what radiator I have. I dont think there was any glycol in my transmission oil but the oil was brown and "burned".
Yes something like this:http://www.ultimategarage.com/shop/p...oducts_id=1469Need to be "long" and not short. This is to remove the driveshaft 3 bolt flange that had a different bolt pattern (722.600 vs 722.616)
Did you swap out the tranny's yourself? Yes
Did the TCU in the car work? Or did you replace it? I didn't touch the electronics. The 722.600 work with my original TCU and without any reprogrammation. I only put the car in dyno mode, I shift all gears manually and after that is was working well.
What did you pay for the trans, and where did you buy it? A guy who buy damaged cars for US and I paid 750.
Tragic that your trans crapped out with so few miles.
I wonder what the real trouble was? Hard to believe it wasn't something electronic.
I'm pretty sure that the problem was the valve body like the first mechanic told me. This is exactly my trouble: http://www.mercedesdismantlers.com//7226.html
When you pull out the valve body, does it just drop out the bottom?
Unbolt and drop it out?
Sounds scary to me. I've never messed with transmission internals.
Yes. To remove the valve body it take less than 1 hour. It's really easy.
Drain the transmission oil. Remove the connector housing on the side of the transmission with a 7mm socket. Then remove 6 T-30 bolts to remove the oil pan, then remove the oil filter, then 10 T-30 bolts to remove the valve body and that's all.
Did you ever check to see what radiator you have, or had?
Was there glycol in the fluid, and it damaged the transmission?
Congratulations!
No, I dont know what radiator I have. I dont think there was any glycol in my transmission oil but the oil was brown and "burned".
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,263
Likes: 169
From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Wow, I think thats the 1st time I posted a list of questions where I got all of them answered!
Well, I know you said you plan to sell the car, but if the issue was coolant leaking into the
trans you still have one thing left to do.
You should determine if the old fluid has coolant in it, and if so replace the radiator, which fortunately is only about $150-$200 new for a proper Behr radiator.
Otherwise it will just happen again.
https://mbworld.org/forums/2254029-post59.html
If you heat the fluid past the boiling point and it sputters, you may have water.
But mostly I'd just make sure you do not have the dreaded Valeo radiator.
The fluid always is brown and burnt. Silly mercedes telling us not replace it.
Maybe send out a sample for testing...
Here's my journey with the 722.6 when at 120K it would barely shift and just needed a fluid flush.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...n-related.html
Knock on wood, I'm at 185K and recently flushed #2 and it's running fine, other than the slow coolant leak I have from cyl #4, which will eventually require a head gasket.
I can't recall anyone else on this forum replacing their own transmission!! Impressive.
Ha, I need someone with your skills, to help me do my head gasket when the time comes...he he.
http://www.kokes.net/slk/Engine_head...ead_remove.htm
Piece of cake, right?
Well, I know you said you plan to sell the car, but if the issue was coolant leaking into the
trans you still have one thing left to do.
You should determine if the old fluid has coolant in it, and if so replace the radiator, which fortunately is only about $150-$200 new for a proper Behr radiator.
Otherwise it will just happen again.
https://mbworld.org/forums/2254029-post59.html
If you heat the fluid past the boiling point and it sputters, you may have water.
But mostly I'd just make sure you do not have the dreaded Valeo radiator.
The fluid always is brown and burnt. Silly mercedes telling us not replace it.
Maybe send out a sample for testing...
Here's my journey with the 722.6 when at 120K it would barely shift and just needed a fluid flush.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...n-related.html
Knock on wood, I'm at 185K and recently flushed #2 and it's running fine, other than the slow coolant leak I have from cyl #4, which will eventually require a head gasket.
I can't recall anyone else on this forum replacing their own transmission!! Impressive.
Ha, I need someone with your skills, to help me do my head gasket when the time comes...he he.
http://www.kokes.net/slk/Engine_head...ead_remove.htm
Piece of cake, right?
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Mar 10, 2012 at 02:39 PM.
