C230 Sport Coup's All things AT Transmission related
03-31-2008, 06:46 PM
#1
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C230 Sport Coup's All things MBZ 722.6 AT Transmission related
So, just flushed my tranny last weekend.
And got the report back from Blackstone Labs.
For those of you just joining this discussion
(thats spread all over the forums on several different platforms)
Start reading here.
The automatic tranny is one of the most expensive items to repair on the vehicle, and for people like me, a complete mystery as far as anything DIY.
But you can improve your shifting, and hopefully extend the life of the tranny by flushing on a regular basis.
I paid the dealer in Sac to do a flush, but the invoice showed only 4 quarts were used. For the record, on late model cars with the 5 speed auto tranny, nearly 9 quarts are needed (consult your owners manual) and as Mercedes saw fit to delete the drain plug from the torque converter, and proper flush requires 13 quarts according to the instructions on the service DVD. I used 12.
The service DVD is available for $60 from 1-800-FOR-MERCEDES.
Well worth it!
Attached is the report from Blackstone on my tranny oil.
It seems to imply that Sac MBZ did not do the flush they claimed to do.
But I can't prove it, though I did check it after they did it and it was green at that time, which according to the report indicates oxidation.
Luckily for me, NO WATER!!!! Wooo Hooo!
Water is a common issue with faulty radiators.
So, I will in the near future be posting the slightly different process I used to do a complete flush which involves removing the hose at the radiator that goes to the transmission fluid cooler.
All in all I'm running much smoother shifting, and the adaptive stuff is still adapting.
More to come!
And got the report back from Blackstone Labs.
For those of you just joining this discussion
(thats spread all over the forums on several different platforms)
Start reading here.
The automatic tranny is one of the most expensive items to repair on the vehicle, and for people like me, a complete mystery as far as anything DIY.
But you can improve your shifting, and hopefully extend the life of the tranny by flushing on a regular basis.
I paid the dealer in Sac to do a flush, but the invoice showed only 4 quarts were used. For the record, on late model cars with the 5 speed auto tranny, nearly 9 quarts are needed (consult your owners manual) and as Mercedes saw fit to delete the drain plug from the torque converter, and proper flush requires 13 quarts according to the instructions on the service DVD. I used 12.
The service DVD is available for $60 from 1-800-FOR-MERCEDES.
Well worth it!
Attached is the report from Blackstone on my tranny oil.
It seems to imply that Sac MBZ did not do the flush they claimed to do.
But I can't prove it, though I did check it after they did it and it was green at that time, which according to the report indicates oxidation.
Luckily for me, NO WATER!!!! Wooo Hooo!
Water is a common issue with faulty radiators.
So, I will in the near future be posting the slightly different process I used to do a complete flush which involves removing the hose at the radiator that goes to the transmission fluid cooler.
All in all I'm running much smoother shifting, and the adaptive stuff is still adapting.
More to come!
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 03-31-2008 at 08:28 PM.
03-31-2008, 07:02 PM
#2
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More links for informed reading.
The original http://www.mercedesshop.com/Wikka/Trans7226Fluid
But states there's a drain plug for the converter that doesn exist in our cars, and isn't a complete flush.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...b-service.html
And lastlly pdfs from the service DVD with the suggested method of flushing the tranny and converter.
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...3&d=1203651872
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...4&d=1203651872
And lastly, soon my pics and documents detailing the one man version.
Available NOW.
The 2 quarts of gear oil were for the diff, but never got to it.
Verify Part Number with a free electronic parts catalog from mercedes
https://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/coverage.jsp
Order parts online from a dealer at a discount-
Search on "trademotion" and "mercedes".
I'm using Autobahn in Norcal these days.
The original http://www.mercedesshop.com/Wikka/Trans7226Fluid
But states there's a drain plug for the converter that doesn exist in our cars, and isn't a complete flush.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...b-service.html
And lastlly pdfs from the service DVD with the suggested method of flushing the tranny and converter.
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...3&d=1203651872
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...4&d=1203651872
And lastly, soon my pics and documents detailing the one man version.
Available NOW.
The 2 quarts of gear oil were for the diff, but never got to it.
Verify Part Number with a free electronic parts catalog from mercedes
https://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/coverage.jsp
Order parts online from a dealer at a discount-
Search on "trademotion" and "mercedes".
I'm using Autobahn in Norcal these days.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 03-31-2008 at 08:36 PM.
03-31-2008, 08:13 PM
#4
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2002 C230K, 2013 BMW 328, 2015 BMW X5
So, just flushed my tranny last weekend.
And got the report back from Blackstone Labs.
For those of you just joining this discussion
(thats spread all over the forums on several different platforms)
Start reading here.
The automatic tranny is one of the most expensive items to repair on the vehicle, and for people like me, a complete mystery as far as anything DIY.
But you can improve your shifting, and hopefully extend the life of the tranny by flushing on a regular basis.
I paid the dealer in Sac to do a flush, but the invoice showed only 4 quarts were used. For the record, on late model cars with the 5 speed auto tranny, nearly 9 quarts are needed (consult your owners manual) and as Mercedes saw fit to delete the drain plug from the torque converter, and proper flush requires 13 quarts according to the instructions on the service DVD. I used 12.
The service DVD is available for $60 from 1-800-FOR-MERCEDES.
Well worth it!
Attached is the report from Blackstone on my tranny oil.
It seems to imply that Sac MBZ did not do the flush they claimed to do.
But I can't prove it, though I did check it after they did it and it was green at that time, which according to the report indicates oxidation.
Luckily for me, NO WATER!!!! Wooo Hooo!
Water is a common issue with faulty radiators.
So, I will in the near future be posting the slightly different process I used to do a complete flush which involves removing the hose at the radiator that goes to the transmission fluid cooler.
All in all I'm running much smoother shifting, and the adaptive stuff is still adapting.
More to come!
And got the report back from Blackstone Labs.
For those of you just joining this discussion
(thats spread all over the forums on several different platforms)
Start reading here.
The automatic tranny is one of the most expensive items to repair on the vehicle, and for people like me, a complete mystery as far as anything DIY.
But you can improve your shifting, and hopefully extend the life of the tranny by flushing on a regular basis.
I paid the dealer in Sac to do a flush, but the invoice showed only 4 quarts were used. For the record, on late model cars with the 5 speed auto tranny, nearly 9 quarts are needed (consult your owners manual) and as Mercedes saw fit to delete the drain plug from the torque converter, and proper flush requires 13 quarts according to the instructions on the service DVD. I used 12.
The service DVD is available for $60 from 1-800-FOR-MERCEDES.
Well worth it!
Attached is the report from Blackstone on my tranny oil.
It seems to imply that Sac MBZ did not do the flush they claimed to do.
But I can't prove it, though I did check it after they did it and it was green at that time, which according to the report indicates oxidation.
Luckily for me, NO WATER!!!! Wooo Hooo!
Water is a common issue with faulty radiators.
So, I will in the near future be posting the slightly different process I used to do a complete flush which involves removing the hose at the radiator that goes to the transmission fluid cooler.
All in all I'm running much smoother shifting, and the adaptive stuff is still adapting.
More to come!
Okay, read your DIY, nice work, and great ideas. Some notes on the cooling line connection to the radiator. That little bugger is yes, hard to get out, but harder still to insure that you have fitted it in correctly. So, after you run it, inspect that fitting a number of times to insure you have NO LEAKS.
On my pan, I couldn't remove the 5 mm hex fitting. She just wouldn't come down. I loosed the bolts holding the pan to the tranny, and then loosened one side to tilt the pan. This allowed a good amount of fluid to come down. Then I dropped the pan with what was left of the tranny fluid.
Last point, don't forget to thoroughly clean the pan magnet. This little number will catch the metal bits that go loose from the gears. Heck when I do my next flush, I might even get another one.
Cheap and really good insurance on removing the metal shavings that the gears put off.
E
Last edited by SeaCoupe; 03-31-2008 at 08:53 PM.
03-31-2008, 08:34 PM
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Midnight Blue 2004.5 C230 Kompressor Sport Sedan. 2002 w210 E320, 2009 w211 E350 Sport
Good stuff, Todd! Thanks for posting this. I'm going to add this to the AFTERMARKET/DIY sticky.
03-31-2008, 08:43 PM
#6
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Well there was too much good info mixed with bad, and it was getting hard to keep it all together. Splinter had the idea of draining at the rad instead of getting a shower from underneath the car, which might be fine on a lift, but really sux if you're on your back.
It's not an easy task getting that bugger off the rad, but it went back on in a flash. And watching the black guk drain every so quickly into my plastic bottles, well, it was strangely and oddly satisfying...a car guy thing ya know.
Just knowing it''s clean makes me feel better about driving the car.
Shifting was getting a little dicey. Now it's nothing but sweetness.
Also his C32 had a different pn for the oring, and he suggested 3/8"
hose, which was was too small.
I had to use the gas stove to soften it, and the end of a ratchet to
ream it out. Which is why I'm suggesting 1/2".
It would seem odd that his intake to the rad might be smaller.
The basic problem with tranny flushes is that you'll never know if it was actually done. Doing it yourself is a royal PIA, but you will know it was done right, no cut corner, no cut rate parts or fluids.
As stated in the report they're stating it's not been flushed though I paid to have it done. Who knows. 4 out of 9 quarts is still a lot of crud.
So much for the "lifetime fill".
"The greenish tint you mentioned is what an oil looks like after is starts to oxidize heavily. You can see this at the insolubles as well. These are solids in the oil and not only show the oil has been run too long,they also show the filter was no longer doing a good job. Wear metals were high and some of these are likely factory leftovers since this appears to be factory oil. They may not show a major problem, but they have a long way to go before we can call them normal (see universal averages based on a ~37,000 mile oil run). Check back in 10,000 miles.
It was a lot of work, not an easy job, but next time would be easier.
I wrote this as much for myself as you guys so I can remember. he he
Half the problem was just getting all the right stuff together.
Use some eye protection when you're under the car.
It's not an easy task getting that bugger off the rad, but it went back on in a flash. And watching the black guk drain every so quickly into my plastic bottles, well, it was strangely and oddly satisfying...a car guy thing ya know.
Just knowing it''s clean makes me feel better about driving the car.
Shifting was getting a little dicey. Now it's nothing but sweetness.
Also his C32 had a different pn for the oring, and he suggested 3/8"
hose, which was was too small.
I had to use the gas stove to soften it, and the end of a ratchet to
ream it out. Which is why I'm suggesting 1/2".
It would seem odd that his intake to the rad might be smaller.
The basic problem with tranny flushes is that you'll never know if it was actually done. Doing it yourself is a royal PIA, but you will know it was done right, no cut corner, no cut rate parts or fluids.
As stated in the report they're stating it's not been flushed though I paid to have it done. Who knows. 4 out of 9 quarts is still a lot of crud.
So much for the "lifetime fill".
"The greenish tint you mentioned is what an oil looks like after is starts to oxidize heavily. You can see this at the insolubles as well. These are solids in the oil and not only show the oil has been run too long,they also show the filter was no longer doing a good job. Wear metals were high and some of these are likely factory leftovers since this appears to be factory oil. They may not show a major problem, but they have a long way to go before we can call them normal (see universal averages based on a ~37,000 mile oil run). Check back in 10,000 miles.
It was a lot of work, not an easy job, but next time would be easier.
I wrote this as much for myself as you guys so I can remember. he he
Half the problem was just getting all the right stuff together.
Use some eye protection when you're under the car.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 03-31-2008 at 08:55 PM.
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03-31-2008, 09:11 PM
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Okay, read your DIY, nice work, and great ideas. Some notes on the cooling line connection to the radiator. That little bugger is yes, hard to get out, but harder still to insure that you have fitted it in correctly. So, after you run it, inspect that fitting a number of times to insure you have NO LEAKS.
On my pan, I couldn't remove the 5 mm hex fitting. She just wouldn't come down. I loosed the bolts holding the pan to the tranny, and then loosened one side to tilt the pan. This allowed a good amount of fluid to come down. Then I dropped the pan with what was left of the tranny fluid.
Last point, don't forget to thoroughly clean the pan magnet. This little number will catch the metal bits that go loose from the gears. Heck when I do my next flush, I might even get another one.
Cheap and really good insurance on removing the metal shavings that the gears put off.
E
On my pan, I couldn't remove the 5 mm hex fitting. She just wouldn't come down. I loosed the bolts holding the pan to the tranny, and then loosened one side to tilt the pan. This allowed a good amount of fluid to come down. Then I dropped the pan with what was left of the tranny fluid.
Last point, don't forget to thoroughly clean the pan magnet. This little number will catch the metal bits that go loose from the gears. Heck when I do my next flush, I might even get another one.
Cheap and really good insurance on removing the metal shavings that the gears put off.
E
And yeh, definately check for leaks all around, and clean the pan, including the metal shavings in the magnet.
Also just an FYI here's the link to the WIS service sheet for the W203
Note one of the 1st things listed is changing the fluid every 60K Kilometers!
(Well it specifies certain VIN ranges or whatnot, but still....)
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...3&d=1187681971
03-31-2008, 09:16 PM
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03-31-2008, 09:18 PM
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thanks for the helpful PDF, i'll be sure to try it out!
04-01-2008, 09:16 AM
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Great write-up and information
Damn, that fluid coming out was NASTY
Analysis reflects that, as well as debunking MB's claim to lifetime fill on the transmission.
Hoping someone figures out a DIY on the 7G. If not, I may have to dig into it at some point and figure out how to fill it without a dipstick tube.
Damn, that fluid coming out was NASTY
Analysis reflects that, as well as debunking MB's claim to lifetime fill on the transmission.Hoping someone figures out a DIY on the 7G. If not, I may have to dig into it at some point and figure out how to fill it without a dipstick tube.
04-03-2008, 02:11 AM
#13
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Great write-up and information
Damn, that fluid coming out was NASTY Analysis reflects that, as well as debunking MB's claim to lifetime fill on the transmission.
Hoping someone figures out a DIY on the 7G. If not, I may have to dig into it at some point and figure out how to fill it without a dipstick tube.
Damn, that fluid coming out was NASTY
Analysis reflects that, as well as debunking MB's claim to lifetime fill on the transmission.Hoping someone figures out a DIY on the 7G. If not, I may have to dig into it at some point and figure out how to fill it without a dipstick tube.
04-03-2008, 05:04 AM
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Not fun. If I could afford to pay the dealer the 400 + they'd charge, I would...but I'd never know if they did it....like I already had it done once
(but that was 40K miles ago) At least I know it was done right.
(but that was 40K miles ago) At least I know it was done right.
04-03-2008, 11:51 AM
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04-04-2008, 02:22 AM
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So then I started going to El Dorado. Found engine was leaking in 3 places as well as other stuff and kept my car for a couple weeks. Last time I changed my oil I noticed my pan was leaking (again) but right under a few of the bolts...THEY STRIPPED 2 of my oil pan bolts!
Sorry to hijack your thread a bit. Anyways, thanks for the rightup! I'll definitely be doing it again soon since I had MBSAC do it. How long did it take you?
04-04-2008, 03:41 PM
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Hmmm....
I went in for oil change and tranny flush at 85K miles, and told them to look for anything they could find, since I was getting close the end of the warranty. They put in a whole bunch of parts, but one of the things I wanted fixed was the IR sensor on the doors.
They only did the drivers side, I guess since after 2002 they were only on the drivers side?
I ended up going to Smyth and making them do it on the passenger side, had to show them it was on the covered list in the warranty, as they seemed clueless as to what was actually covered.
But the list of stuff they replaced in Sac, well I was pretty amazed, but they also hit me for $100 goodwill payment for stuff I didn't specifically ask for, and it appears perhaps the tranny flush wasn't done?
I'll never really know.
Which is why I did it myself this time!
I went in for oil change and tranny flush at 85K miles, and told them to look for anything they could find, since I was getting close the end of the warranty. They put in a whole bunch of parts, but one of the things I wanted fixed was the IR sensor on the doors.
They only did the drivers side, I guess since after 2002 they were only on the drivers side?
I ended up going to Smyth and making them do it on the passenger side, had to show them it was on the covered list in the warranty, as they seemed clueless as to what was actually covered.
But the list of stuff they replaced in Sac, well I was pretty amazed, but they also hit me for $100 goodwill payment for stuff I didn't specifically ask for, and it appears perhaps the tranny flush wasn't done?
I'll never really know.
Which is why I did it myself this time!
I had bad luck at Sacramento. I kept taking it in for an oil leak and they said it was "normal", when they replaced my roof they soaked my shade in oil, the hatch glass was replaced but they didn't put in the panels right and I could see all the pads on the glass. Again this was "Normal". :shakes head:
So then I started going to El Dorado. Found engine was leaking in 3 places as well as other stuff and kept my car for a couple weeks. Last time I changed my oil I noticed my pan was leaking (again) but right under a few of the bolts...THEY STRIPPED 2 of my oil pan bolts!
Sorry to hijack your thread a bit. Anyways, thanks for the rightup! I'll definitely be doing it again soon since I had MBSAC do it. How long did it take you?
So then I started going to El Dorado. Found engine was leaking in 3 places as well as other stuff and kept my car for a couple weeks. Last time I changed my oil I noticed my pan was leaking (again) but right under a few of the bolts...THEY STRIPPED 2 of my oil pan bolts!
Sorry to hijack your thread a bit. Anyways, thanks for the rightup! I'll definitely be doing it again soon since I had MBSAC do it. How long did it take you?
04-04-2008, 06:17 PM
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'02 C230K Coupe
They seem really hit or miss in Sac. I couldn't get them to do my last FSS under warranty because the computer said it didn't need it until 52K. 
Oh well, I try to do all my own maintenance or hire on of technicians who work in the office depending on the project (only pulley so far)
Oh well, I try to do all my own maintenance or hire on of technicians who work in the office depending on the project (only pulley so far)
04-07-2008, 02:58 AM
#21
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772.9 Transmission Oil and filter change
Johnand I found what you wanted...
on the service DVD.
Everyone should buy one.
1-800-FOR-MERCEDES
60 bucks.
772.9 Transmission Oil and filter change
on the service DVD.
Everyone should buy one.
1-800-FOR-MERCEDES
60 bucks.
772.9 Transmission Oil and filter change
04-07-2008, 04:45 AM
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2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
Automatic transmission- oil and filter change,
transmission 722.6
validity restricted, vehicles as of VIN end no.
A745749, F648300, R173714
Okay, can someone please explain what this means in layman's terms?
For example, is that A745749 ONWARDS, or all cars BEFORE that one?
transmission 722.6
validity restricted, vehicles as of VIN end no.
A745749, F648300, R173714
Okay, can someone please explain what this means in layman's terms?
For example, is that A745749 ONWARDS, or all cars BEFORE that one?
04-07-2008, 05:18 AM
#23
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Automatic transmission- oil and filter change,
transmission 722.6
validity restricted, vehicles as of VIN end no.
A745749, F648300, R173714
Okay, can someone please explain what this means in layman's terms? For example, is that A745749 ONWARDS, or all cars BEFORE that one?
transmission 722.6
validity restricted, vehicles as of VIN end no.
A745749, F648300, R173714
Okay, can someone please explain what this means in layman's terms?
For example, is that A745749 ONWARDS, or all cars BEFORE that one?How many miles you got?
Did you see the color of the stuff that came out of my car?
Yuk.
The newer service sheets show this as a maint. item.
04-07-2008, 10:02 AM
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I am calling today for a service DVD.Looks fairly straight forward, just need to see if I can procure the filling adapters for a reasonable price. The only thing I see as a potential problem, is getting the fluid temp via Star Diagnose. I would imagine using a Fluke infrared thermometer should get me close enough.
04-07-2008, 01:27 PM
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Thank you. I am calling today for a service DVD.
Looks fairly straight forward, just need to see if I can procure the filling adapters for a reasonable price. The only thing I see as a potential problem, is getting the fluid temp via Star Diagnose. I would imagine using a Fluke infrared thermometer should get me close enough.
I am calling today for a service DVD.Looks fairly straight forward, just need to see if I can procure the filling adapters for a reasonable price. The only thing I see as a potential problem, is getting the fluid temp via Star Diagnose. I would imagine using a Fluke infrared thermometer should get me close enough.
I noted a few other parts that had updates, software, and different size tubes that supercedes certain cars...
You'll need some sort of pump to get it into the pan...
you could alway use one of those drill powered pumps,
like the Sureflow on boatersworld for 20 bucks, which I use to do oil changes.
