Glyn M Ruck

Pleased you are making progress. That's why I asked if the transmission was behaving normally.

Glyn M Ruck

Indeed!

If you go back to my early days on the forum with the C240 you will note my posts complaining that there was no way to make this the default screen or if last viewed would stay on that screen after a restart. I like being able to watch my temperature/coolant information.

Facelift partially fixed that situation.

LILBENZ230

That's cool.. the facelift cars let you see the temp via a gauge but no method of checking level on the dash.

The most fascinating part of these problems for me is that the car brakes itself to a halt, though. That is still unexplained.

Russell Ormerod

Mercedes Benz do not apply brakes to bring car to a halt, too dangerous. brakes are applied very gently in distronic operation. but never in a fault condition to stop a car. also mercedes do not have a "kill engine" function.
take a look at the design of a coolant level sensor, its a simple on off switch fitted to the header tank. it cannot tell you the level of water, it simply tells u, the header tank is now low.

SunnyRayToronto

Just updating the thread with a log of what happened over the last few months and the fixes that I tried,.... basically throwing parts at the car,....

Feb 16, 2012 (Thurs)

odometer: 62,717 km

Transmission Fluid Flush 60,000km MB Global recommended - MBUSA lifetime
Check Transmission Electric Plug

Transmission oil & filter change
Transmission pilot bushing adapter change

Mercedes-Benz Part# 140-277-00-95 $19.18
Transmission Filter

Mercedes-Benz Part# 140-271-00-80 $19.98
Transmission Pan Gasket

Mercedes-Benz Part# 203-540-02-53 $13.29
Adapter Plug With O-Rings Transmission Cable to Conductor Plate NOTE: O-Rings are no longer available Separately.
Application: C230 Coupe Trans 722.695- 203.740



Mercedes-Benz Part# 001-989-68-03-13 $50.00 (cash no tax) McNally Auto Repair - 49 Toro Road
ATF Transmission Fluid NOTE: For use with the 5-Speed 722.6 & 7-Speed 722.9 Transmission. NOTE: This is a high performance fluid designed to optimize shifting performance. (ATF 4134) MBZ Approval: 236.14
Manufacturer: FUCHS TITAN ATF 4134 Original Equipment

Mercedes-Benz Part# 140-991-00-55 $1.31
Lock Pin For Transmission Filler Cap


Coolant Flush - 5 times = less than 0.2% old coolant
Zerox G-05 & Distilled Water


Service B due: Feb 20, 2012








March 9, 2012 6:10pm In my garage - testing HVAC system (resynch looking for broken linkage / stepper motor)
Coolant Visit Workshop
3 malfunction: Coolant - ESP
Car Engine Stalls & Front Radiator Fan on High - 30 sec


March 11, 2012 (Sunday) - CHANGE RELAYS - SAM
Swapped out relays in front SAM (back to original relays on September 26, 2012)
checked (rotated & brushed) all fuses



May 31, 2012 8:15pm Backing car out of driveway onto street
ESP Visit Workshop (didn't notice Coolant Visit Workshop) but heard radiator fan go into high mode like turbine engine and car stalled and stopped itself.
malfunction: ESP
Car Engine STALL & Front Radiator Fan on High - 30 sec



June 5, 2012 12:00noon Car idle on driveway getting ready to leave
3 malfunction: Coolant - ESP
Car Engine Stalls & Front Radiator Fan on High



June 28, 2012 9:15pm Car just started a few minutes ago at drove just a bit on an incline and car stalled - I coasted to safe stop
3 malfunction: Coolant - ESP
Car Engine Stalls & Front Radiator Fan on High



Aug 4, 2012 12:40pm Car just left home, entering eastbound highway 401 at Yonge
3 malfunction: Coolant - ESP
Car Engine Stalls & Front Radiator Fan on High
Pulled over, restart fine on highway
About 1:00pm, Just after exiting 404 at Steeles, car stalls again on Woodbine north of Steeles - turn into parking lot - restart car
Stalls again on Woodbine in middle lane,... then drive fine after restart.

Aug 26, 2012 9:40pm return to car at Walmart - car starts but stalls shortly after
3 malfunction: Coolant - ESP
Car Engine Stalls & Front Radiator Fan on High
- can not restart again
- buy distilled water from Walmart to top up coolants 500ml
- still stalls, after an hour
- finally starts car and drive westbound on Eglinton
- stalls before Sloane Ave & Bermondsey Road - make right on old green - yellow light so as not to block Eglinton traffic or bus lane (red light camera present)
- ScanTool to clear code and was able to drive home without issues

Sept 2, 2012 6:10pm - in garage 10 minute idling to charge up battery - car stalls in 5 minute
3 malfunction: Coolant - ESP
Car Engine Stalls & Front Radiator Fan on High
- can not restart after about 7 attempts
- notice about 10 clicks coming from engine compartment prior to stall on start




September 26, 2012 (Wednesday)
odometer: 63,956 km

Cam Magnet Sensors

Campaign # 2009100001 - Cam Solenoid recall - USA recall. Replace the Camshaft Adjustment Solenoids and Install Adapter Harnesses. Not available in Canada,... yet. But then again that PCV hose recall was came to Canada a year after it was first available in USA.
2x MAGNET - Cam Solenoid (Cam Magnet Sensor)
Mercedes-Benz Part# 271-051-01-77 $36.38 each (Sub-Total: $72.76)
2x ELECTRICAL WIRE - ADAPTER CABLE - Isolation wires
Mercedes-Benz Part# 271-150-27-33 (271-150-27-33-05) $25.88 each (Sub-Total: $51.76)
2x SEAL RING - O-ring
Mercedes-Benz Part# 010-997-23-48 (010-997-23-48-05) $4.50 each (Sub-Total: $9.00)
2x CLOSING COVER - Rubber plugs
Mercedes-Benz Part# 271-051-00-32 (271-051-00-32-05) $1.88 each (Sub-Total: $3.76)
2x LOOM TIE - Cable ties
Mercedes-Benz Part# 002-997-24-90 $2.63 each (Sub-Total: $5.26)

Install new Air Guide Pipe (Air Intake Hose Intake Scoop to Air Filter Housing)
Mercedes-Benz Part# 271-090-03-82
42-55.10/56
49.04 CAN (20% off of $61.30 @ Midtown MB)

Tighten a coolant tube behind the engine that seems to be leaking coolant (white powder residue)

Changed all relays in FrontSAM back to original



September 27, 2012 (Thursday)
odometer: 63,956 km

Fuel Filter Change

Mercedes Fuel Filter
Mercedes-Benz Part# A002-477-30-01 $69.95 + $7.45 USPS 1st shipping (ebay europartimports88)
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Mercedes-Benz...#ht_2183wt_797

These are some really funky hose clamps,.. Clic-R is the brand name.
Mercedes-part#: quant/price/size/inch/mm-diametre
A005-997-19-90 x1 $2.94 3/8" 0.375" 9.83mm
A006-997-18-90 x2 $2.36 1/2" 0.5" 12.70mm
A003-997-57-90 x1 $3.77 5/8" 0.625" 15.88mm

Special Tool: Clic-R clone plier ($15.99)
MB OEM Mahle KL82 Fuel Filter $43.00 + $12.00 USPS Priority but 1st shipping (ebay stuttgartmiami 5413 NW 82 Ave, Doral, FL 33166 USA)
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Mercedes-fuel...#ht_1508wt_789

Wants 1/2" hose plier ($8.99) and hose clamp ($20) VarietyTools



October 5, 2012 (Friday)
odometer: 63,956 km

HELLA Crankshaft Position Sensor (by AB Elektronik OEM) $68.00 + $5.75 USPS 1st shipping (ebay europartimports88)
HELLA # 6PU-009-110-501 MB003-153-28-28
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200802334550...84.m1439.l2649

Original was MB 003-153-28-28 (29021) by AB Elektronik - 2003 notorious for bad CPS


Special Tool: Astro Pneumatic 9409A Cable Hose Clamp Plier $44.99 Variety Tools

Buffer the front fuel line cable with vinyl hose



October 6, 2012 (Saturday)
odometer: 63,956 km

Disassembled Air Filter to clean MAF with CRC SensorKleen

Install CTek trickle charger cables



October 10, 2012 (Wednesday)
odometer: 63,956 km

Clean ThrottleBody with CRC ThrottleBody Kleen

Install new Energizer 2025 batteries in key

SunnyRayToronto

Since the night of August 26th, when I was finally able to drive the car back home,... after many fail to start and stall while driving conditions,.... the car has not been able to start since. Each time I tried to start,... key in position 2, the car runs through a bunch of checks and I would hear about 10 clicks (1 per second from engine area) and then front radiator fan would start spinning like a turbine engine and "Coolant Visit Workshop" message would appear. If I take key out within about 1 second of front radiator fan starting to spin it would stop,... otherwise, if I leave key in too long, the front radiator fan would continue to spin for about 30-50 seconds after I take the key out.

Over the last year, the problem has always come and gone,.. it was intermediate and hard to recreate when you wanted to. Now it seem constant,... and now would be a good time to troubleshot it.

Anyways, after throwing parts and doing as many checks as I could as a DIYer (CPS, fuel filter, check wiring harness for oil - cam magnet sensor, fuse, ground, switching out relays, new battery, clean MAF & air filter, clean throttlebody, thermostat, coolant temperature sensor, transmission pilot bushing adapter, etc,...ok, so many of these were routine maintenance items anyways),... and countless search of these forums and not being able to solve it,... it was time to bring in the big guns!

On October 11th, I had it towed via CAA (Canadian version of AAA) flat bed tow truck to the best Mercedes Indy in the Toronto Area,... (Charlie) McNally Auto and let them have a crack at it,.... Charlie McNally has a nice large garage with about 12-15 service bays full of mainly mercedes and is always busy,.... usually you need to book well ahead for an appointment, but after hearing me explain the problems over the phone, he just said "whenever you can get the car in here we'll take a look at it".

Aidan, one of Charlie's mechanic (and brother), worked on my car while Charlie supervised. I pointed out that I found a waterline in the battery compartment when I replaced the battery earlier this year and had to dry up the area (maybe a corroded cable in there) and the coolant hose behind the engine where I found leaking coolant trail which I tighten (maybe coolant dripped onto some electrical down there). I also explained some of the "extra wiring" I've done,... like the battery connector for CTek trickle charger (OEM Mercedes trickle charger) and the double set of cam magnet sensor pigtails that I installed so it'll loop around the air intake hose (so if oil dripped it will drip under the air intake hose instead of onto the belts and get sprayed all over the engine bay),.... and a 4" retaping of the main harness where it connects to the ECU (I sprayed CRC QD Electrical Cleaner in there and it ruined the adhedsive of the short original electrical cloth tape in that area,... so I replaced it with plastic electrical tape).

SunnyRayToronto

After hooking up their Mercedes-Benz STAR Diagnostic System,... it showed a list of faults including no signal from ECU (Engine Control Unit - aka Engine Control Module - aka "ME-SFI Motor Electronic" on STAR). The ECU has a very low failure rate and they went ahead to check all the electricals on the car,... fuse, relays, CAN bus, wiring, etc,.. finally took out the ECU,...and shoke it and it RATTLED! WTF!!! The ECU is a sealed circuit board with no movable parts, it should NOT rattle! Something has broken loose inside.

Interestingly, the weekend before I brought the car into McNally Auto, I did the MAF cleaning and had the air filter housing apart,... had the ECU off the air filter housing,... trying to figure out how to open it to spray it with CRC QD Electrical Cleaner just in case if there was any oil or anything in it, even though I never found any oil at the ECU sockets. But the ECU is a sealed water tight unit,... so I gave up on trying to open it up. And I was extremely gentle,... and I did NOT shake it. If I did, I would have found the rattle,... but even then I probably thought a rattling ECU was normal,... odd but normal. The ECU failure in itself if quite rare,.... even Charlie McNally (the best Mercedes Indy in Toronto Area) says that!

Doing a search here, I found ctC230k who had a ECU failure 6 years ago that caused a fail to start, ct230k also had the front radiator fan spinning like a turbine engine but didn't mention the "Coolant Visit Workshop" message that should have accompany it,... ct230k's ECU failure was covered under warranty. My car only has 63,956km on it,... it would have been within the 80,000km part of the 80,000km or 4 years warranty,.. but it's way past 4 years! So these repairs and parts are coming out of my (shallow) pocket. Oh, the joys of owning a Mercedes out of warranty!
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ont-start.html

ECU replacement usually happen due to leaking cam magnet sensor (I had a bit of oil at cam magnet but none in main harness wire) because of Mercedes-Benz Dealership would rather replace entire ECU when oil is found in plug rather than to just clean it out (much higher profit margins). Sometimes ECU are messed up when someone "tune" the ECU for performance improvements,... my ECU was never tuned, flashed, chipped or altered in anyway. A short in main wiring harness can lead to ECU failure. Common faults are like blown output stages (no power to injectors) which is generally easy and cheap to fix. Complex issues like damaged EEPROM (bad tuning-flashing) or faulty ECU programming are more expensive to fix.

Right now, they're 99% sure its the ECU that needs to be replaced,... and I've read so many posts here about ECU that got replaced when it wasn't needed. But my ECU actually RATTLES,.... and that rattles me!

I talked to the parts manager at one of the Toronto area Mercedes-Benz dealership I frequent, and he confirms the ECU should NOT rattle at all,... its a sealed circuit board with no movable parts. The page below has an image of the circuit board for a Mercedes ECU somewhat similar to ours,... I suspect one of the capacitor or large connector pins fell off.
http://www.mercedesecm.com/mercedes-ecm.html

Still debating about whether to try to rebuild and fix the old ECU (Mercedes Part# A271-153-27-79 Siemen 5WK90451 [08]) or just replace it with new one (new Mercedes Part# A271-153-87-79 Continental 5WK90528 [02]). I could source a used one via salvage yard or flea-bay but the problem is Mercedes ECU has antitheft immobilizers and would require reprogramming the ECU to be married to the car via VIN code. Technically, Mercedes ECU can be married only once,... but as in real life, someone could hack it to reflash it with another VIN and the ECU will be married to a different car. Buying a new ECU from Mercedes, it will be virgin and the Mercedes warehouse will VIN code it before it goes to the dealership,... so when I pick it up from parts department, it will just be plug and play.

SunnyRayToronto

I posted some of my ECU issues here,... but I figure I`ll update this thread incase if anyone experience similar issues and find this thread via search,....
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...cu-ecm-me.html


As soon as I got my old ECU back,... I ripped it apart,.. and my Mercedes Indy Aidan & Charlie McNally helped too! Oh, its a ***** taking that housing case off the sealed ECU. The source of that rattling sound was the Crystal Oscillator (used to provide a stable clock signal in ECU,.. its like the drummer or conductor providing the beat for the music,... Oh, its a Mercedes,.. thus, its like the conductor wand keeping the beat for the orchestra),... the Crystal Oscillator broke off from the ECU circuit board.

NOTE: A crystal oscillator is an electronic oscillator circuit that uses the mechanical resonance of a vibrating crystal of piezoelectric material to create an electrical signal with a very precise frequency. This frequency is commonly used to keep track of time (as in quartz wristwatches), to provide a stable clock signal for digital integrated circuits, and to stabilize frequencies for radio transmitters and receivers.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crystal_oscillator

The Crystal Oscillator looks like a metallic Tylenol pill,... which is appropiate, since it's given me such a headache! Two metal feet protude from it and are soldered onto the ECU circuit board,... the feet look like they just rest on top of the solder points,... there's no solder on top of the feet, it only connects on the bottom. The holder that holds the crystal oscillator to the ECU circuit board has parts that wrap around the side of the crystal oscillator and two little metal stopper at the top that stops it from going up?,... Huh, this looks like bad design, these metal stoppers should be at the bottom to stop it from falling down,.... haven't they heard of gravity? Seems like the ECU circuit board designer assumed that the ECU plugs are at the bottom,... but infact for the M271 engine, the ECU plugs are at the top. Anyways, because these little metal stoppers are on top,... and since ECU is attached to air filter housing in top of supercharger and right beside m271 engine,... there's vibration. This vibration will be constantly banging on top of the crystal oscillator via the metal stoppers on top. Thus weakening the solder joints at the crystal oscillator feet. After examining my ECU, I am wondering why this is not a more common problem. Maybe it is just my ECU that got the poor soldering joints at the crystal oscillator feet (which are just soldered to the very top of the solder),... but its all done by robotics so there should be more,... I suspect, this is exactly what happened to ctC230K a few years back,... when his ECU just blown itself off like a light bulb all the sudden not working.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ont-start.html

A reminder of my problems:
** "Coolant Visit Workshop" when driving the car:
- "Coolant Visit Workshop" malfunction error on instrument cluster display - usually followed by "ESP Visit Workshop" and a third Visit Workshop message for Engine, ABS or Display
- car goes into Stalls (lost power steering, no acceleration, slow automatic braking done by car and when car stops engine turns itself off)
- Front Radiator fan turns itself on in high mode (sound like a turbine engine) - stays on as long as key is in - take key out and Front Radiator fan stays on in high mode (sound like a turbine engine) for another 30-50 seconds

*** "Coolant Visit Workshop" when trying to start the car:
- Key in position 1 - everything seems fine and instrument cluster display lights up normally
- Key in position 2 - everything seems ok (as car seems to do its regular checks - 10 clicking sound from engine 1/sec) then Front Radiator fan turns itself on in high mode (sound like a turbine engine) and then "Coolant Visit Workshop" malfunction error displays on instrument display cluster.
- Any attempt to turn key to ignition to start engine is ignored - engine can not start - no starter clicking (nothing)
- Front Radiator fan turns itself on in high mode (sound like a turbine engine) - stays on as long as key is in - take key out within first second and fan will turn off otherwise leave key in too long and Front Radiator fan stays on in high mode (sound like a turbine engine) and when key is finally taken out front radiator fan continues to spin for another 30-50 seconds
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...high-mode.html

My stalling and non-start condition originally came and went for a while,... so I guess that was caused by the loose connection. Thus if you have M271 ECU Mercedes-Benz part# A203-153-27-79 and you experience the following conditions on a come and go basis (not permanent),.... then I would strongly suspect a loose connection at the solder joints for the cystal oscillator. When its intermediate,... its relatively simple to fix (VS the cost of new ECU or ECU repair, you really have nothing to lose),.. take out the ECU via MAF DIY style to remove airbox housing to which ECU is attached,... then carefully break open watertight rubber seal of ECU (this will take some time),.... examine solder points of crystal oscillator,... resolder crystal oscillator to circuit board. Reseal ECU with good quality automotive seal.

If I had done the above repairs myself when the problem was intermediate,... then it should have solved my issues. Problem was, I never suspected the ECU,.... the ECU is a very low fault item,... its basically bullet proof!



Eventually,... my problem became permanent,... and I could not start the car at all,... the crystal oscillator broke off from the ECU circuit board and that caused the rattling when the ECU was shook. By this time, when STAR was connected, there was no communication from the ECU. I am guessing with the crystal oscillator (with metallic body) moving around the ECU circuit board, it caused a short or ground out on the ECU circuit board somewhere and fried one or more of the chips. What as originally an intermediate come and goes problem,... was now a permanent no start condition.

Anyways, it seems like it would be very simple to just resolder the crystal oscillator back onto the ECU circuit board,... but I suspect there were other damage to the ECU circuit board (short or ground out). And since this old ECU (A271-153-27-79 Siemen 5WK90451 [08]) has been updated a few times (now A271-153-87-79 Continental 5WK90528 [02]) and I plan on keeping this car for a while,... I figure its better to just get a brand new ECU.


Here are photos of the circuit board for my defective M271 ECU - MB part# A271-153-27-79 Notice, the crystal oscillator in the centre,.. metal tylenol shaped,.. and how poorly it was just soldered to the top of the solder.

SunnyRayToronto

The new ECU came VIN-coded (actually serial number coded,.. VIN are based on serial number) from the Mercedes warehouse (Dealership does not do this coding)). Officially ECU can be VIN-coded only once (virgin ECU married to VIN). Once the new ECU is installed onto the car, it still needs to be SCN (Software Calibration Number) coded. All 2003 and newer Mercedes car have ECU requiring SCN. The SCN is a 16 alpha-numeric string,.. it basically enables the ECU to communicate to the other computers in the car like the Transmission Control Unit, EIS, body control unit, etc,... The SCN is available via secure network from Germany,... thus nobody actually see the 16 digit SCN itself,... if they did, they can steal your car!

Careful about buying reconditioned ECU online,... some claim that they will be shipped to you fully VIN-coded and ready for plug and play. But it still needs SCN coding. My understanding is that the ECU must be installed in the car before SCN coding can take place,... and SCN coding needs a live connection to a MB computer in Germany,... top security,... otherwise anyone who can read your VIN code from you windshield can get a programed ECU for your car and thus steal your car!

The only way a used ECU can work on your car is if the chip storing the VIN-Serial number and SCN code are replaced with the chip from your old ECU,... that way the used ECU will have your VIN-Serial number and SCN code and will be able to work on your car. Hmmm,... same methodology as the old key to new Chrome key chip transfer. To do this ECU rebuilders require your old ECU,... and if you have to mail it to them,.. lets hope it doesn't get lost in the mail!

Of course, the Mercedes-Benz Dealership can do SCN coding. In the USA, because of their Right To Repair laws, some Mercedes Indy and ECU experts can do SCN coding (they need to connect to a Mercedes-Benz computer in Germany). My Mercedes Indy in Canada goes through a Mercedes ECU expert in California who can connect to the MB computer in Germany.


While doing my research,... I know ECU damage are quite rare. The parts manager at my local MB dealership (one of the larger of 7 dealership in Toronto area) mentions in an entire year, they only see about 1 or 2 orders for ECU. Even my Mercedes Indy (the best Mercedes Indy in Toronto,... Aidan & Charlie McNally Auto - 15 bays with 8 mechanics) only sees about 1 ECU replacement a year.

If you suspect your ECU is damaged,... you need to hook it up to STAR to see status of ECU,... inspect all wiring, main wiring harness, CAN bus, fuse, relays, etc,.... ECU are very well protected with fuse, relays and breakers,... but a short in main wiring harness can fry ECU. If your ECU is non-communicative (dead),... it will not send signal to front radiator cooling fan,... front radiator cooling fan go into its default mode and spin in high mode like a turbine engine,... it assumes worst case that the engine is overheating. Making a call on a dead ECU is very tough to do,... and since ECU are generally expensive, that call better be 100% correct. The only way to be 100% correct,... would be to plug in another ECU for that engine model,... the other ECU will not be able to start your car since VIN and SCN are different,... but the other ECU will be communicative (have status on STAR),... and thus front radiator fan will not be spinning in high mode since it gets a signal from ECU.

If an ECU is damaged, common ECU faults are blown output stages (no power to fuel injectors) which cost about $100 to fix. Damaged EEPROM for faulty ECU programing (bag ECU tuning) usually cost about $200-400 to fix. Immobilzer are in ECU. Any ECU (old or new) would need to be VIN-coded and SCN coded to the car which usually cost about $200.

New ECU are only available via Mercedes-Benz dealerships. Thus, RMEuropean and other non-MB places would NOT carry them. GetMercedesParts (really an MB dealership) sell them for $1365 (25% of the list price of $1820). The really shocking part is that the Canadian Mercedes Benz dealership actually sell these ECU for less than the American Mercedes Benz dealership! It is usually the other way around where the Canadian MB dealership charge about 50% to double what the American MB dealership does (ie Car batteries). At the Canadian MB dealership, the ECU cost $1060,... and with the Mercedes-Benz Canada Loyalty Circle program I got 20% off so the new ECU costed me $848 plus tax,.. well, there goes my mod money for a while,... the mod money, I've been saving from doing some of my own maintenance thanks to the DIY threads here.