Lower Control Arm replacement on 02 C230
Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Vegas
02 C32
c240classic, thanks. That trick... did the trick. I'm now rocking new lower control arms with the fluted bolts. Feels much better than with a loose ball joint :p
But for anyone who's attempting this for the first time, here's a small list of tools I ended up needing.
13/16" wrench
13/16" socket
T45 torque right angle wrench
Some blue locktyte
torque wrench
and the generic tools you probably already have.
One thing I found out, since my jackstands don't fit in the molded jack points, is that the jack point molds themselves can be removed. Just use a screwdriver to twist while pulling down on a nub in the center.
But for anyone who's attempting this for the first time, here's a small list of tools I ended up needing.
13/16" wrench
13/16" socket
T45 torque right angle wrench
Some blue locktyte
torque wrench
and the generic tools you probably already have.
One thing I found out, since my jackstands don't fit in the molded jack points, is that the jack point molds themselves can be removed. Just use a screwdriver to twist while pulling down on a nub in the center.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
2002 C230K
Thanx for the heads-up on the jack point molds, and the list of tools. I'm surprised you were able to get a 13/16 wrench to fit. The ball joint nut on my lower control arm is 21mm and I couldn't get my 13/16 wrench to fit over the nut; gonna buy that metric wrench. Quick question for you, and please excuse my ignorance: why did you need the T45 Torx wrench? I dont see a Torx bolt on any of the suspension pieces...
PS/Edit
And the 13/16" wrench vs 21mm. So I actually thought I needed 21mm, but when I couldn't find any 21mm anything at my local hardware stores, I found that the 13/16" actually fit either perfectly or very snugly. In any case, I ended up not needing any 21mm wrenches or sockets.
Last edited by ZrSiO4-Zircon; Mar 26, 2012 at 03:26 AM.
Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Vegas
02 C32
The torx wrench was to hold the ball joint itself from rotating in the socket while I removed the nut that held the control arm to the hub assembly in place. The ball joint bolt has a T45 torx tip.
PS/Edit
And the 13/16" wrench vs 21mm. So I actually thought I needed 21mm, but when I couldn't find any 21mm anything at my local hardware stores, I found that the 13/16" actually fit either perfectly or very snugly. In any case, I ended up not needing any 21mm wrenches or sockets.
PS/Edit
And the 13/16" wrench vs 21mm. So I actually thought I needed 21mm, but when I couldn't find any 21mm anything at my local hardware stores, I found that the 13/16" actually fit either perfectly or very snugly. In any case, I ended up not needing any 21mm wrenches or sockets.
Thanx everybody!
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
A suggestion here -- before you pop the joint loose, remove the nut completely, clean the threads and lubricate with WD40, and screw it back on. Then after you pop the joint the nut should come off easily.
Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 134
Likes: 10
From: New Hampshire
C 32 AMG & FG2 Civic Si
Hi all, what are the symptoms of bad lower control arm bushings? I've had a knocking sound when I go over bumps for a long time and I've been trying to find the culprit. I also have a small but noticeable amount of steering play that looks like it's coming from the inner tie rods or steering rack.
My upper control arm bushings were replaced a couple of years ago and still look new, but both lower control arm bushings are very, very slightly cracked. The cracks run around the entire circumference of the bushing but look like only minor surface cracks. Could this still be causing knocking noises? I can't find any play, really. The upper control arm slightly rotates but all ball joints look and feel perfect. End links were replaced and torqued with OEM parts and specs about a month or two ago.
There is a knocking sound that comes from the steering rack/inner tie rods when I have someone turn the steering wheel in the "play" zone--where it doesn't actually move the wheels.
What am I missing here? I'm dying to fix this IMMEDIATELY! Any help is appreciated.
My upper control arm bushings were replaced a couple of years ago and still look new, but both lower control arm bushings are very, very slightly cracked. The cracks run around the entire circumference of the bushing but look like only minor surface cracks. Could this still be causing knocking noises? I can't find any play, really. The upper control arm slightly rotates but all ball joints look and feel perfect. End links were replaced and torqued with OEM parts and specs about a month or two ago.
There is a knocking sound that comes from the steering rack/inner tie rods when I have someone turn the steering wheel in the "play" zone--where it doesn't actually move the wheels.
What am I missing here? I'm dying to fix this IMMEDIATELY! Any help is appreciated.
Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 131
Likes: 1
From: Wichita, KS
2002 C230 Coupe
Hi all, what are the symptoms of bad lower control arm bushings? I've had a knocking sound when I go over bumps for a long time and I've been trying to find the culprit. I also have a small but noticeable amount of steering play that looks like it's coming from the inner tie rods or steering rack.
My upper control arm bushings were replaced a couple of years ago and still look new, but both lower control arm bushings are very, very slightly cracked. The cracks run around the entire circumference of the bushing but look like only minor surface cracks. Could this still be causing knocking noises? I can't find any play, really. The upper control arm slightly rotates but all ball joints look and feel perfect. End links were replaced and torqued with OEM parts and specs about a month or two ago.
There is a knocking sound that comes from the steering rack/inner tie rods when I have someone turn the steering wheel in the "play" zone--where it doesn't actually move the wheels.
What am I missing here? I'm dying to fix this IMMEDIATELY! Any help is appreciated.
My upper control arm bushings were replaced a couple of years ago and still look new, but both lower control arm bushings are very, very slightly cracked. The cracks run around the entire circumference of the bushing but look like only minor surface cracks. Could this still be causing knocking noises? I can't find any play, really. The upper control arm slightly rotates but all ball joints look and feel perfect. End links were replaced and torqued with OEM parts and specs about a month or two ago.
There is a knocking sound that comes from the steering rack/inner tie rods when I have someone turn the steering wheel in the "play" zone--where it doesn't actually move the wheels.
What am I missing here? I'm dying to fix this IMMEDIATELY! Any help is appreciated.
If not, lie under the car (or as close as you can get) while a friend bounces it and trace the noise.
Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
Also, check the steering rack bushings. If the rubber on those is very worn you may hear a knocking noise. Also, if the car veers to the left or right depending on the slant of the of the road you are driving on, then the rack bushings could have some play in them.
One way to check this is to put the front on ramps, remove bottom engine cover, and look at one of the rack mount points as an accomplice turns the steering wheel back and forth. If you see the rack move at all (1mm or more) on the mount points then your bushings are worn and need replacing.
Fortunately these bushings can be replaced without removing the rack ... see other thread.
From my experience, bad control arm bushings mainly resulted in knocking and squirmishness while braking, but not so much straight driving.
One way to check this is to put the front on ramps, remove bottom engine cover, and look at one of the rack mount points as an accomplice turns the steering wheel back and forth. If you see the rack move at all (1mm or more) on the mount points then your bushings are worn and need replacing.
Fortunately these bushings can be replaced without removing the rack ... see other thread.
From my experience, bad control arm bushings mainly resulted in knocking and squirmishness while braking, but not so much straight driving.
Last edited by jkowtko; Jan 5, 2015 at 11:39 AM.
Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 134
Likes: 10
From: New Hampshire
C 32 AMG & FG2 Civic Si
thanks for the advice. tie rod ends don't look to be the issue because there doesn't seem to be any play in the ball joints, except for the fact that they twist freely.
there doesn't seem to be an issue with the rack bushings either, since the rack doesn't move as the steering wheel is turned.
i definitely appreciate the ideas though, it helps to narrow things down. i also have creaking while i have one wheel up onto my driveway or other times while turning the wheel when stationary.
if the control arm bushings were the cause of the noises, would i be able to see and feel the issue?
there doesn't seem to be an issue with the rack bushings either, since the rack doesn't move as the steering wheel is turned.
i definitely appreciate the ideas though, it helps to narrow things down. i also have creaking while i have one wheel up onto my driveway or other times while turning the wheel when stationary.
if the control arm bushings were the cause of the noises, would i be able to see and feel the issue?
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Super Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 968
Likes: 62
From: San Francisco, CA
2005 c230SS
One rule of thumb I have come to realize on these cars ... replace all rubber and ball joints every several years! That includes the entire front suspension, engine and tranny mounts, and flex joints. The rear suspension on these cars seems to hold up okay.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 33
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix, AZ
2005 C230K Sport Sedan
I am currently in the process of doing just that. My benz is 10 years old with 120k miles. I replaced the front suspension. Now for the motor and tranny mounts. This probably could have been done last year, but I am glad I am getting it done.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 17
Likes: 1
C240
c240classic, thanks. That trick... did the trick. I'm now rocking new lower control arms with the fluted bolts. Feels much better than with a loose ball joint :p
But for anyone who's attempting this for the first time, here's a small list of tools I ended up needing.
13/16" wrench
13/16" socket
T45 torque right angle wrench
Some blue locktyte
torque wrench
and the generic tools you probably already have.
One thing I found out, since my jackstands don't fit in the molded jack points, is that the jack point molds themselves can be removed. Just use a screwdriver to twist while pulling down on a nub in the center.
But for anyone who's attempting this for the first time, here's a small list of tools I ended up needing.
13/16" wrench
13/16" socket
T45 torque right angle wrench
Some blue locktyte
torque wrench
and the generic tools you probably already have.
One thing I found out, since my jackstands don't fit in the molded jack points, is that the jack point molds themselves can be removed. Just use a screwdriver to twist while pulling down on a nub in the center.
