Lower Control Arm replacement on 02 C230
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
2002 C230K
Lower Control Arm replacement on 02 C230
I'm about to replace both lower control arms on my 02 C230K. The passenger side has play in the ball joint, and I get vibrations at varying speeds while turning left, and drift to the right when I brake. Since I'm replacing one, might as well replace the other side too.
Sooo, my question to all the knowledgeable compatriots out there:
It looks like the control arm is replaceable as a whole; I can take the old control arm assembly out, and bolt the new ones in. Does anyone have torque specs on the connecting bolts and nuts? Or any other tips/suggestions/comments/corrections to my assumptions?
Thanks all!
Sooo, my question to all the knowledgeable compatriots out there:
It looks like the control arm is replaceable as a whole; I can take the old control arm assembly out, and bolt the new ones in. Does anyone have torque specs on the connecting bolts and nuts? Or any other tips/suggestions/comments/corrections to my assumptions?
Thanks all!
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 264
Likes: 2
From: Lumberton, TX
2009 ML350, 2007 GL450, 1963 GMC, BMW 325i
This is what I used, but took it in for an alignment right away. So MB made sure it was all correct.
Also double check you've got the right castor/camber bolts. They are fluted down the bolt shaft.
Also double check you've got the right castor/camber bolts. They are fluted down the bolt shaft.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
2002 C230K
Thanks for the picture! Helps out a lot.
And I just want to also verify the parts I'm going to purchase.
For parts, I've got part numbers 204 330 19 11 and 204 330 20 11 for the control arm assemblies from Mercedes.
When I search for that part, I get 203 330 33 11 and 203 330 34 11 as compatible parts from Lemfoerder. The fluted bolt set part number I find is 000 330 00 18, from Febi.
I plan on getting new tires in about a month after this project, and getting alignment done at that time. Any downside to that plan? MB suggested alignment be done with new tires, which is why I'm planning it this way.
And I just want to also verify the parts I'm going to purchase.
For parts, I've got part numbers 204 330 19 11 and 204 330 20 11 for the control arm assemblies from Mercedes.
When I search for that part, I get 203 330 33 11 and 203 330 34 11 as compatible parts from Lemfoerder. The fluted bolt set part number I find is 000 330 00 18, from Febi.
I plan on getting new tires in about a month after this project, and getting alignment done at that time. Any downside to that plan? MB suggested alignment be done with new tires, which is why I'm planning it this way.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19,942
Likes: 192
From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Remember to hold one end of the fluted caster & camber bush bolts so as not to damage the bushes. Also only tighten the bolts with the suspension loaded to prevent bush damage.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 50
From: SoCal. Desert
'16 E350, gone: '03 c230k
Hey Hogger - what book/manual is that?
Also, on alignment I'm curious... From what I've read on here, and from the times I've taken my car in to a local indy, it seems the front suspension is not adjustable other than toe-in, correct? The 'crash bolts' allow some limited movement, but other than that it is what it is?
Also, on alignment I'm curious... From what I've read on here, and from the times I've taken my car in to a local indy, it seems the front suspension is not adjustable other than toe-in, correct? The 'crash bolts' allow some limited movement, but other than that it is what it is?
Last edited by mtnman82; Feb 12, 2012 at 07:30 PM.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19,942
Likes: 192
From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Castor & camber can only be adjusted properly once fluted bolts have been fitted. Otherwise it's just toe.
Trending Topics
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
New Electric Mercedes-AMG GT 4-Door Coupe Unveiled: 10 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
6 Mercedes Models That Did NOT Age Well (But Are Somehow Still Cool)
Verdad Gallardo
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
2002 C230K
Doing some searching, I'm finding I should go get a tool called a pickle fork, which will wedge between the ball joint and the hub/spindle(?). Hammer away, and the wedge will pry the mechanically welded pieces apart. I will try this in the morning
Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
2007 cls63 AMG
Trick i used
Here is a trick i used because a generic seperator/puller would not fit in there.
Loosen the nut about half way, dont take it completely off. You will notice there is not much room above it. Wedge a socket big enough in there that the nut does not go into it. Loosen the nut more till the socket is wedged tightly between the nut and the suspension. Now take an open ended wrench that fits the nut and loosen the nut 1/4 turn at a time. The nut cannot go any higher because the socket is wedged there so it will push down on the joint and after 3-4 1/4 turns the ball joint will pop out of the hub.
I used a pickle fork and big hammer initially but after breaking two forks on one side, used this trick and it took me less than a minute to seperate it. Let me know if you need any more details on the process. Thanks
Loosen the nut about half way, dont take it completely off. You will notice there is not much room above it. Wedge a socket big enough in there that the nut does not go into it. Loosen the nut more till the socket is wedged tightly between the nut and the suspension. Now take an open ended wrench that fits the nut and loosen the nut 1/4 turn at a time. The nut cannot go any higher because the socket is wedged there so it will push down on the joint and after 3-4 1/4 turns the ball joint will pop out of the hub.
I used a pickle fork and big hammer initially but after breaking two forks on one side, used this trick and it took me less than a minute to seperate it. Let me know if you need any more details on the process. Thanks
Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
2007 cls63 AMG
Just to be clear the socket needs to be big enough that the threaded shaft that the nut is on will go in but small enough that the nut does not go into it. I dont remember if i used a deep or regular socket but once you get under there you will see it.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
2002 C230K
c240classic, thanks. That trick... did the trick. I'm now rocking new lower control arms with the fluted bolts. Feels much better than with a loose ball joint :p
But for anyone who's attempting this for the first time, here's a small list of tools I ended up needing.
13/16" wrench
13/16" socket
T45 torque right angle wrench
Some blue locktyte
torque wrench
and the generic tools you probably already have.
One thing I found out, since my jackstands don't fit in the molded jack points, is that the jack point molds themselves can be removed. Just use a screwdriver to twist while pulling down on a nub in the center.
But for anyone who's attempting this for the first time, here's a small list of tools I ended up needing.
13/16" wrench
13/16" socket
T45 torque right angle wrench
Some blue locktyte
torque wrench
and the generic tools you probably already have.
One thing I found out, since my jackstands don't fit in the molded jack points, is that the jack point molds themselves can be removed. Just use a screwdriver to twist while pulling down on a nub in the center.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
2002 C230K
I do feel like it's just a *little* off, but I haven't driven on a completely level surface yet. I'll drive around in a parking lot, see if it's actually off.
What I did notice definitely is how different the steering feels with the control arms 4mm out, using the camber bolts. It's effectively giving me more negative camber, right? And probably some castor change, too?
What I did notice definitely is how different the steering feels with the control arms 4mm out, using the camber bolts. It's effectively giving me more negative camber, right? And probably some castor change, too?
Super Moderator
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19,942
Likes: 192
From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Please Remember - To properly set up a LHD car from published you require to run 1 degree more positive castor on the RHS to the LHS. The reverse applies to RHD cars. This offsets road camber & ensures the car tracks straight hands off. Typically 9.6 degrees & 10.6 degrees. Benz allows max 2 degrees to stop the car from pulling with road camber.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...gnment+experts
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
2002 C230K
Good information. Thanks! Though I have nowhere near the know-how and/or comfort level to do any major alignment adjustment myself :p I may just take it to Merc or Merc shop to do an alignment.
Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
2007 cls63 AMG
Mine is right biased by about 4-5 degrees atleast, maybe more. When i tightened the nut, i did not load the suspension. I am thinking i might try doing that and see if it makes a difference.
I was thinking about getting an alignment but i have bought the upper control arms to replace as well and i will get it done after i replace those.
I was thinking about getting an alignment but i have bought the upper control arms to replace as well and i will get it done after i replace those.
Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Is it possible for the ball joint side connection to loosen up? Heard clunking, and it has play there when I jacked it up.
I'm guessing I'll have to replace the entire lower control arm but if i can just tighten up the ball joint to take out play that would be great!!!
or replace the ball joint itself but it seems that's not possible.
UPDATE
Looks like I found an answer.
I'm guessing I'll have to replace the entire lower control arm but if i can just tighten up the ball joint to take out play that would be great!!!
or replace the ball joint itself but it seems that's not possible.
UPDATE
Looks like I found an answer.
Last edited by govertime; Mar 2, 2012 at 11:04 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
2002 C230K
Alright, I got my little C230 aligned. As I thought, after reading up more on alignment and just thinking about the installation I made, i had waaaay too much toe in. 3*21' total toe press. That's 1*17' left and 2*04 right. Which explains the right bias. So yea, if you install camber bolts (when you originally didn't have it), probably a good idea to get aligned.
Full stats:
Before:
-0*42, -0*41 camber, left, right front
11*06', 10*51 castor, left, right front
1*17', 2*04, toe pressed, left, right front
0*02' steer ahead
-1*05', -1*06', camber left, right rear
0*10', 0*03', toe, left right rear
0*04' thrust angle
After:
-0*39', 0*43' camber, left, right front
11*09', 10*51 castor, left, right front
0*03', 0*02', toe pressed, left, right front
0*01' steer ahead
-1*06', -1*06 camber, left right rear
0*13, 0*17' toe left, right rear
-0*02 thrust angle
I'm sure to look it up on wikipedia or something, but what is "steer ahead"? I understand what everything else is...
Full stats:
Before:
-0*42, -0*41 camber, left, right front
11*06', 10*51 castor, left, right front
1*17', 2*04, toe pressed, left, right front
0*02' steer ahead
-1*05', -1*06', camber left, right rear
0*10', 0*03', toe, left right rear
0*04' thrust angle
After:
-0*39', 0*43' camber, left, right front
11*09', 10*51 castor, left, right front
0*03', 0*02', toe pressed, left, right front
0*01' steer ahead
-1*06', -1*06 camber, left right rear
0*13, 0*17' toe left, right rear
-0*02 thrust angle
I'm sure to look it up on wikipedia or something, but what is "steer ahead"? I understand what everything else is...
Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Vegas
02 C32
Here is a trick i used because a generic seperator/puller would not fit in there.
Loosen the nut about half way, dont take it completely off. You will notice there is not much room above it. Wedge a socket big enough in there that the nut does not go into it. Loosen the nut more till the socket is wedged tightly between the nut and the suspension. Now take an open ended wrench that fits the nut and loosen the nut 1/4 turn at a time. The nut cannot go any higher because the socket is wedged there so it will push down on the joint and after 3-4 1/4 turns the ball joint will pop out of the hub.
Loosen the nut about half way, dont take it completely off. You will notice there is not much room above it. Wedge a socket big enough in there that the nut does not go into it. Loosen the nut more till the socket is wedged tightly between the nut and the suspension. Now take an open ended wrench that fits the nut and loosen the nut 1/4 turn at a time. The nut cannot go any higher because the socket is wedged there so it will push down on the joint and after 3-4 1/4 turns the ball joint will pop out of the hub.
P.S. I found my Lemfoerder control arm at MBpartswarehouse for $88 with free shipping!
