JLD2k3

I did my own control/thrust arm bushing replacements about a month ago. I had a bump sound when the weight shifted upon turning, so I took it in to get a look. Turns out the lower control arm nut was loose. They tightened it for me, but the issue has returned, so I can only assume that the nut is loose again. I don't think they have used any Loctite on the nut. I am 700 miles from home and I'm not sure if I should drive it home like this or find somewhere near Orlando to help me out.

1 - Should I use Loctite on this?
2 - Is it safe to get home?

Glyn M Ruck

I presume you mean the nut on the fluted bolts that go through the castor bush or control arm bush as Americans call them?

You can't leave it loose. The bolt will ruin the inside of the 3 position bush - in fact it might already have done so. Put Locktite on it and tighten properly. Sorry - I don't know the suggested torque

Glyn M Ruck

Ignore the yellow circles. Show us which nut you mean - this is an E class but the layout is the same

JLD2k3

Not the fluted bolts, the ball joint end.

https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...y-img_0242.jpg

It's the arm with the green marking in the linked picture.

Glyn M Ruck

Got it. You can't drive the car if the ball joint nut is coming loose. Maybe the ball joint does not fit the taper correctly. Whatever, tighten it & put Loctite on the thread. I'm surprised that it is not a Simmons nut or Nylock. Check it a few times on your way home. It should be tight & never come loose. I think when you get home you should have the ball joint changed & make sure that it fits correctly in the tapered hole.

ALLDATAdiy INFO

The ball Joints should have no free play in them at all. Most of the suspension arms and components should have self locking nuts on them, and torques to 70nm depending on what arms/links.

Glyn M Ruck

+1

JLD2k3

UPDATE:

I took it to MB South Orlando. They found the pinch bolt on the spindle to be loose and without its washer. I called my dealer and they said, "oops." Thanks, guys.

Thanks Glyn. I'll also be looking to replace a front wheel bearing. How hard is that? I'm about to STFF.

Glyn M Ruck

Not hard as long as you have the necessary tools to drive out the outer bearing raceways from the hub & you understand you require to remove the brake caliper. You do NOT require to undo the brake hose.

Here a link to generic bearing replacement. Make sure to grease properly. Don't over grease or over tighten. A smear of grease in the cap & inner hub is all that's required as long as the bearings themselves are full of grease. Excess grease causes temperature build up & leakage.
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doity...h_bearing1.htm

ALLDATAdiy INFO

Here is another angle as found in ALLDATAdiy

Glyn M Ruck

Please note that the diagram provided by ALLDATAdiy is for a front wheel drive vehicle & not your rear wheel drive. It does partially apply to a 4Matic which yours is not. I appreciate our sponsor's input but then it should be relevant.