spentHO

I have done some digging around on my problem and cant seem to find exactly what im looking for...there are quite a bit that are in regards to the MAF but not on my year model or engine type.

First i will start out but telling you who are reading this my initial codes i was pulling off of my Actron code reader. I first was getting codes P2006, P2187, & P2189 and from reading the forums I concluded something was going on with the MAF. I removed the MAF and attempted to clean it the the MAF sensor cleaner (CRC) that i picked up from Autozone. The next day i was putting the MAF back in the car and noticed that the air box that contained both air filters had a very small puddle of oil on it. From there i determined that the K&N air filters were over oiled and i removed them and put back in the stock filters for the time being after cleaning the air filter box. After the MAF was back in and the car was put back together i started it up and took it for a test drive. The CEL didnt come on but i only think that is because i didnt drive far, but the ODB II scanner pulled the same exact codes. I then came to the conclusion that the cleaning of the MAF didnt not work so i went ahead and ordered the MAF on Saturday. It arrived today and i just installed it and the P2187 & P2189 codes are no longer present, but i still have the P2006 code being thrown. any ideas as to what i should look at next? The CEL is not on but the idle is not perfect.... it is not bad but its just not perfect so you can tell there might be an issue. I am going to drive the car to work tomorrow (84 mile round trip) and i hope that maybe the car needs to be adjusted to the new MAF? (fingers crossed)

My car is a 2006 C230 (W203) with a m272.920 engine

Glyn M Ruck

P2006 is one of those nice PITA codes:

P2006 B2/5b1 (intake temperature sensor) (P0110)
P2006 check B6/1 (camshaft Hall sensor). Signal too strong. Short to positive
P2006 check B6/1 (camshaft Hall sensor). Signal too weak. Short to ground
P2006 Component N15/3(ETC control module) is faulty.
P2006 fuel pre-supply pressure sensor implausible
P2006 fuel pre-supply pressure sensor signal value too large
P2006 fuel pre-supply pressure sensor signal value too small
P2006-001 B2/5b1 (outside air temperature sensor) signal, positive/wire open cause
short [p0113]
P2006-002 B2/5b1 (outside air temperature sensor) signal, overload short [P0112]
You really need a Star.

Before doing anything else. Is the airbox clamped down tight over the MAF? If not the MAF hunts to try & achieve proper fuel trim & can lead to strange codes & bad idle.

spentHO

Thanks for the response Glyn.

I had previously seen those codes on the forum and was hoping that there was maybe an easy fix...I will double check the connection from the air box to the MAF to make sure it is properly seated but i was pretty satisfied with it when i put it back in last night. That would be great if that were the problem, i will report back tonight. I guess my next plan of attack would be to try to find an indy shop with a STAR to give me a reading...


On the way in the car drove fine and didn’t seem to have the irregular idling, but then again 80% of my commute is highway driving and the car drove like a champ!

Thanks for the input.

Glyn M Ruck

Good luck! This has been the problem on so many M272 & 273 engines lately I have to raise it.

Pull off the airbox & reseat it.

spentHO

I got home with no CEL still. I wish I would have read the codes before I took the air box out and checked it because when I put the air box back on and read the codes again I’m sad to say but the P2187 & P2189 codes have returned but with a different version "P2187pd" & "P2189pd" along with the one that has remained P2006 and an added P2006pd. My ODB II scanners manual says that the "PD" refers to when a code is a pending code - Any ideas what that means?

When I was inspecting the air box I did notice that the air box was not perfectly together so I took it apart to examine and make sure nothing was causing it to not seal properly. Below are some pics of what I’m talking about. Do you think this could be the cause? I have had K&N filters in the car since a few months after i bought the car (so like 5 1/2 years), I’m wondering if they cause the air box to warp?

I pulled off the air box once again and i am going to put it back on now and pray at least the codes P2187 & P2189 go away cause i would hate to think i just wasted $275.00 on a new MAF when it wasn't the culprit.

On a lighter note I have a mobile Mercedes mechanic coming to my office tomorrow to do a transmission fluid service and he has a STAR machine...I am going to try to see if he will give me a free read since I’m doing the service with him...otherwise i will probably pay for it and should hopefully have the answers I’m looking for. (hope fully not expensive answers )

Thanks again!

Colby

FrankW

Airbox looks more like you didnt put it back properly causing the gap.

spentHO

That is not the problem unfortunately...both sides of the air box are put back correctly...i can squeeze pieces together but it seems that they have been shaped that way. I'm not sure if my previous K&N filters cause this or not...but the pieces of plastic air box are permanently shaped this way..

spentHO

Reporting back in...I ended up telling the mobile MB mechanic thanks but no thanks and ended up going to my friend's house after work who works at a MB indy shop. He read the codes on his scanner (not a star) and got the same codes as i was pulling. He removed the air box and then pointed out the most likely culprit to why i am getting these codes. I believe he called them the intake manifold flaps or runners and quickly showed me how they are both broken which he said is probably the reason why the codes are being thrown. I've taken a few pictures of the manifold flap (if that’s the right name of it) and they aren't that great cause my camera was wanting to focus on parts of the car that were closer...taking a pic of the one closer to the driver’s side of the engine was pointless due to the location of the part and how other items are blocking it from view. He did mention that it is a real pain to replace because the way they are fastened in is in a spot that you can’t get to easily. He mentioned that a customer’s car that he worked on recently had the same problem as this. He said this is a common issue on this car and that the guy took his c230 in to the dealer and they did not charge him and he’s out of warranty. Does anyone know if there is a bulletin that talks about this?

**Update - I searched on the internet a bit more and i believe the correct name of the failed part is intake manifold vacuum valves that control the intake runners - The rods are broken off

Glyn M Ruck

I don't like the look of your airbox.

Here is typical M272 inlet manifold runner actuation failure. Unless you can cobble up a repair you require a whole new manifold. No repair kits are available.

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ld-broken.html

spentHO

Me neither, but it will have to do for the time being...they seem to be sealed pretty good, especially after i replaced the filters today with the new ones that arrived. Thanks a lot for the info, do you know what the part runs for the whole new manifold? hopefully I will be able to get it changed for free like a friend of a friend did, but im not holding my breath.

Question, can this damage the car with the rods broken?

Glyn M Ruck

The manifold is about $1000 & the whole job about $1700.

You won't damage the engine per se but it will not run efficiently showing power loss & elevated fuel consumption. If you look at the thread I have attached & diagrams I suppose you could bodge something together that jammed everything in the rev range & conditions you usually drive. This is far from ideal.

monoglobal

I have replacement tumble flap lever for $249.00

Express worldwide shipping for $15.00

www.monoglobal.com.au

Glyn M Ruck

The lever is not what breaks. It's the plastic rods that break.

spentHO

That's correct! in my case i actually had a broken flap on inside of the intake manifold that was loose moving around in there - this is on top of the 2 plastic rods that broke on the outside of the intake manifold...you gotta love the crappy plastic that the genius engineers decided to use on pretty much everything under the hood. I ended up getting a friend that works at an indy shop get me the new intake manifold at his price which with the gaskets it ended up being like 1150 total - It definitely fixed the problem though, and it turns out i believe i actually damaged the MAF when i was thinking that was the problem causing the codes i was getting. Cause after replacing the intake manifold i was getting a another code. The same friend of mine had a used MAF from the same year/model car and i put it in and it works fine. So definitely do not use that MAF cleaner that they sell at autozone on your MAF if thats what you are thinking is causing the codes!!!

jmustonen

This is an old thread but I would like to provide info for people looking information about the problem.

My C230 2007 completely broke couple of weeks ago and the problem was that the intake manifold was broken from the inside. Exactly same as spentHO's problem, the flaps were loose inside. This caused aventually the actuator rod levers to fall off and air leaking in from the front of the manifold, which made the idle very bad and performace was poor.

I bought a new OEM Pierburg manifold and replaced it by myself. I also made an walkthrough how to replace the manifold. You can find it here: Replacing MB M272 Intake Manifold Part 1 of 2 - YouTube

My car had about 125 000 mileages when it broke but as I look back in time I realized that I had increasing number of weird and strange problems couple of years prior the failure. I believe that the manifold had started to broke slowly long time ago. I also had replaced the MAF but never expected actual problem to be on this level. But it seems to be very common problem.

pcy

Good step by step video.

Where did you buy manifold and how much?

jmustonen

Great, I'll appreciate your feedback! I tried to do the video as informational as I could with my skills

I live in Finland (Europe) and paid about 500 Euros (about $550). It was on 25% sale. This is the exact part I bought http://www.buycarparts.co.uk/pierburg/964530

pcy

$550 for the entire intake manifold is a very good price, in my opinion.
Is it brand new or remanufactured?

jmustonen

Yes, I think it's fair price too. The part I got is a brand new and as Pierburg is the OEM manufacturer for MB's intake (at least on M272 engine), it's exactly like the original one. But I hope that they have learned to do better quality and this new unit will last for the end of the cars life.