Akebono Ceramic Brake pads - EUR984 vs EUR1121
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05 C230 Kompressor
Akebono Ceramic Brake pads - EUR984 vs EUR1121
I found the Akebono EUR1121 Ceramic front pads about $50 cheaper on Tirerack.
Is there a big difference between EUR984 and EUR1121.
I dont take my car to the track. I have white tubine-type rims that are always dirty.
Is there a big difference between EUR984 and EUR1121.
I dont take my car to the track. I have white tubine-type rims that are always dirty.
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06 C230 SS 6spd
according to akebono the EUR984 dont fit our models. Most get the EUR1121 from tirerack or get the stock replacements. I have the EUR1121 and love them, great stopping and almost zero brake dust. The EUR1121 also come with the wear sensors.
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05 C230 Kompressor
Should I do the back at the same time? Akebono EUR873
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Last question..I hope. Do our C230 have brake sensors? If so, does the OEM Sensor fit the Akebono's?
I found them for $64 and free shipping on Amazon (TireRack $86 w/shipping)
Oh yeah. Did you go ceramic on the rear? I rarely have dust on those rims.
JB
I found them for $64 and free shipping on Amazon (TireRack $86 w/shipping)
Oh yeah. Did you go ceramic on the rear? I rarely have dust on those rims.
JB
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'03 c240
I replaced both front and rear pads in my '03 C240 with the Akebono Euro pads and noticed that the car doesn't have the stopping power it did with the OEM pads. I have to press the brakes harder in order to stop the car. Has anyone else experienced this issue?
The brakes produce very minimal dust which keeps the wheels clean for a couple of weeks.
The brakes produce very minimal dust which keeps the wheels clean for a couple of weeks.
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'03 c240
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'03 c240
OEM Mods: 2005 Sport 17" Rims (225 Front, 245 Rear), 2005 Clear Mirror Turn Signals and Head Lights, Flat Hood Emblem, '08 wheel caps, Bilstein B8 sport suspension
Aftermarket: K&N air filters, Clear side marker lights, H&R sport springs
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it wont hurt the master cylinder it'll just overflow the reservoir. What you can do is run the car and take the cap off the reservoir and pump the brakes and see if air bubble come up. but I would flush the brake system just to make sure there aren't any air in the lines.
I have this from amazon, works great for bleeding.
I have this from amazon, works great for bleeding.
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it wont hurt the master cylinder it'll just overflow the reservoir. What you can do is run the car and take the cap off the reservoir and pump the brakes and see if air bubble come up. but I would flush the brake system just to make sure there aren't any air in the lines.
I have this from amazon, works great for bleeding.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o03_s00_i00
I have this from amazon, works great for bleeding.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o03_s00_i00
______________
'03 c240
OEM Mods: 2005 Sport 17" Rims (225 Front, 245 Rear), 2005 Clear Mirror Turn Signals and Head Lights, Flat Hood Emblem, '08 wheel caps, Bilstein B8 sport suspension, '06 instrument cluster, debadged
Aftermarket: K&N air filters, Clear side marker lights, H&R sport springs, smoked tails
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'05 C230 Kompressor Sedan
Just did the brakes on my 2005 with 61K miles.
Akebono 1121 for the front, come with 2 brake sensors, I only needed one.
CENTRIC 12835086 (128-35086) Rotors for the front, these are nice! Painted black on the non contact surfaces. 61 bucks each at rock auto. Old stockers had groves cut in them at only 61K miles.
Akebono 779 for the rears, came with no sensor, and didn't need any for the rear.
WAGNER BD125569 Rotor $ 27.79 each for the rear. These are plain jane, nothing special. Stock Rear rotors and pads didn't look that bad, but oh well, they are replaced now.
Car stops on a dime! No brake dust, no squealing, no vibrations, just smooth stops. The pads are super easy to replace, I wish I had put these on years ago just to get rid of the brake dust. With the rotors, you're going to need a BFH or you'll never get them off. I was wailing on them hard enough to sling iron chips and PB Blaster residue all over my garage, but they came off!
Love the Akebono Euro ceramic. Don't even think of buying a different pad. These even come with the brake moly to lube the back of the pads from squealing.
Akebono 1121 for the front, come with 2 brake sensors, I only needed one.
CENTRIC 12835086 (128-35086) Rotors for the front, these are nice! Painted black on the non contact surfaces. 61 bucks each at rock auto. Old stockers had groves cut in them at only 61K miles.
Akebono 779 for the rears, came with no sensor, and didn't need any for the rear.
WAGNER BD125569 Rotor $ 27.79 each for the rear. These are plain jane, nothing special. Stock Rear rotors and pads didn't look that bad, but oh well, they are replaced now.
Car stops on a dime! No brake dust, no squealing, no vibrations, just smooth stops. The pads are super easy to replace, I wish I had put these on years ago just to get rid of the brake dust. With the rotors, you're going to need a BFH or you'll never get them off. I was wailing on them hard enough to sling iron chips and PB Blaster residue all over my garage, but they came off!
Love the Akebono Euro ceramic. Don't even think of buying a different pad. These even come with the brake moly to lube the back of the pads from squealing.
#14
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Me too. I have over 100K miles on the front (AMG 4 piston). Amazingly they just keep going.
Before I went to those, I had the 1st set of front pads fail at 25K,
then replaced the brakes to AMG and went through 2 sets of stock pads before going, the 2nd set only lasted 20K miles.
So new rotors and Akebono's and hear I am 100K miles later and still going.
I bought new pads and rotors a year ago, but still had some pad left, so they're just sitting on a shelf. It's been another 20K since then, and they STILL are ok. Close but OK.
Never had an issue with braking except once, driving downhill like a maniac on a steep hill, they faded from heat right at the bottom of the hill.
Before I went to those, I had the 1st set of front pads fail at 25K,
then replaced the brakes to AMG and went through 2 sets of stock pads before going, the 2nd set only lasted 20K miles.
So new rotors and Akebono's and hear I am 100K miles later and still going.
I bought new pads and rotors a year ago, but still had some pad left, so they're just sitting on a shelf. It's been another 20K since then, and they STILL are ok. Close but OK.
Never had an issue with braking except once, driving downhill like a maniac on a steep hill, they faded from heat right at the bottom of the hill.