Timing Chain and Tensioer Replacement
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Timing Chain and Tensioer Replacement
Has anyone attempted to replace the Timing Chain yourself or is just easier pushing it to the shop to get it replaced. Time + $ = Dammit! Any options?
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I tried pushing it to the shop, but they refused to replace it, because apparently they could not reproduce the chin rattle. Although I hear something on cold starts, they said it was totally silent. ??
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Once it is stretch and you drive it. You can bend a valve and add some more other internal damage to your engine.
Mine just happen to jump timing the other night and I didn't even drive it. I went to turn on the car and it happened. I'm praying no valves bent. So I'm looking to do this myself if I can find the time to do it or find someone locally to do it. Trying to way my options right now. If it cost to much then I'm just go ahead and buy me my new truck I always wanted and sell this car to anyone who wants to attempt to fix it.
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123k. I don't have a CEL, so I am assuming no misfires so far?
And it's interesting. Some days I hear the rattle (or some sound like it), but other days it's silent... Sometimes I hear it 'rattle' after I only let the car sit for 5-6 hours during daytime.
BTW, did you read this thread yet? https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ine-apart.html
And it's interesting. Some days I hear the rattle (or some sound like it), but other days it's silent... Sometimes I hear it 'rattle' after I only let the car sit for 5-6 hours during daytime.
BTW, did you read this thread yet? https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ine-apart.html
Last edited by VVF; 09-24-2012 at 02:36 AM. Reason: added the link
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2009 ML350, 2007 GL450, 1963 GMC, BMW 325i
Mine happened at 117K. As far as DIY, or have a shop do it???
I can't say because I don't know your mechanical abilities. If you've done MAJOR engine repair work before, then it probably won't be too bad. Hey, I did it.
Taking it to the shop certainly is the easier route to go, but more expensive.
Just about everything should be in that thread posted.
I can't say because I don't know your mechanical abilities. If you've done MAJOR engine repair work before, then it probably won't be too bad. Hey, I did it.
Taking it to the shop certainly is the easier route to go, but more expensive.
Just about everything should be in that thread posted.
Last edited by Hogger; 09-24-2012 at 10:07 AM.
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Mine happened at 117K. As far as DIY, or have a shop do it???
I can't say because I don't know your mechanical abilities. If you've done MAJOR engine repair work before, then it probably won't be too bad. Hey, I did it.
Taking it to the shop certainly is the easier route to go, but more expensive.
Just about everything should be in that thread posted.
I can't say because I don't know your mechanical abilities. If you've done MAJOR engine repair work before, then it probably won't be too bad. Hey, I did it.
Taking it to the shop certainly is the easier route to go, but more expensive.
Just about everything should be in that thread posted.
I can overhaul it myself. I just don't have the time to do it. I have a buddy who can do it but he is couple days behind on some other cars.
So right now I have couple of options.
Option 1: Bring it to a local indy guy and he will work on it for me for around 800 to 900 parts included. Warranted. Thats if I didn't bend any valves, that will cost more.
Option 2: Let my buddy work on it for a flat fee of $800, but I have to buy any part that needs to replaced. If he finds more problems with it then I will jst have to buy the part. He wont charge me extra for any extra work. So that is a plus.
Option 3: Buy a used motor for $3k @ 88k and rebuild it and drop it in. He will only charge me $500 to swap motors. I buy any parts that need to be changed out. He wont charge me any extra.
Option 4: Clean and Simple, Trade my car with a Honda Prelude he just rebuilt and new paint. Very clean car. Less headache.
I probably wont keep this car any longer. I planning to buy a new Lexus or big truck to haul my boat around.
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Lilbenz230 is selling his timing chain parts that he bought to change his timing chain before he decided to get rid of his car. Maybe you two can work a deal out if you decide to change the timing chain. Heres the link https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...tems-sale.html
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Mine happened at 117K. As far as DIY, or have a shop do it???
I can't say because I don't know your mechanical abilities. If you've done MAJOR engine repair work before, then it probably won't be too bad. Hey, I did it.
Taking it to the shop certainly is the easier route to go, but more expensive.
Just about everything should be in that thread posted.
I can't say because I don't know your mechanical abilities. If you've done MAJOR engine repair work before, then it probably won't be too bad. Hey, I did it.
Taking it to the shop certainly is the easier route to go, but more expensive.
Just about everything should be in that thread posted.
Hogger, I'm probably goin to help my buddy mechanic start working on this car. I'm probably going to need just know where mostly where the timing markings are. And any tips I need to let him know. We are going to do the chain and tensioner and guide rail first. Then we will do the valves if needed. I didn't drive the car when it happen. It just happened when I started it up. So most likely he says the valves are not bent. *cross fingers* But if it does then he will have to pull the head. Is it cool if I PM from time to time?
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I sure will. But Hoggy has most of the pictures up already. its purely almost simple but time comsuming if you know what your doing. Just important thing is just aligning those markers up correctly. Thats it. I'm sad to say that this will be probably my last work on this car ever. I'm going to sell this car and buying a brand new car at the end of the year like i orginally planned. Time for a new lexus or a AWD truck or suv.
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Well... reading all the posts here, seems not that hard just to pull the chain. Don't even need to take the timing cover off. The only thing that stops me is I don't have chain breaker and riveter tools, and they are expensive to buy.
Also I do believe my plastic guide rails should still be in good shape, but already several mechanics told me they would replace the rails with the chain, blah-blah.
Is it that big of a deal even if they are a little worn, and I pull the new chain+tensioner?
(do I even have to replace the tensioner?) Can anyone tell me why it is the case?
I just want some peace of mind for ~50k miles, that's gonna be around 4 years with my driving habits...
Also I do believe my plastic guide rails should still be in good shape, but already several mechanics told me they would replace the rails with the chain, blah-blah.
Is it that big of a deal even if they are a little worn, and I pull the new chain+tensioner?
(do I even have to replace the tensioner?) Can anyone tell me why it is the case?
I just want some peace of mind for ~50k miles, that's gonna be around 4 years with my driving habits...
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Well... reading all the posts here, seems not that hard just to pull the chain. Don't even need to take the timing cover off. The only thing that stops me is I don't have chain breaker and riveter tools, and they are expensive to buy.
Also I do believe my plastic guide rails should still be in good shape, but already several mechanics told me they would replace the rails with the chain, blah-blah.
Is it that big of a deal even if they are a little worn, and I pull the new chain+tensioner?
(do I even have to replace the tensioner?) Can anyone tell me why it is the case?
I just want some peace of mind for ~50k miles, that's gonna be around 4 years with my driving habits...
Also I do believe my plastic guide rails should still be in good shape, but already several mechanics told me they would replace the rails with the chain, blah-blah.
Is it that big of a deal even if they are a little worn, and I pull the new chain+tensioner?
(do I even have to replace the tensioner?) Can anyone tell me why it is the case?
I just want some peace of mind for ~50k miles, that's gonna be around 4 years with my driving habits...
Yes you have to change out the whole system together. Rails, Chain and Tensioner. ONce the chain stretches and slaps around in there. It will start eating away at those guides. The tensioner is like a one time use thing. Once it is removed, it has to be replaced. THey are spring loaded and springs do get weaker over time + engine heat. If your car is starting to Misfire in Cyclinder 1 and 2. I suggest you start finding a good mechanic to change it out before you end up like me. I am starting on my huge project next week once Lilbenz ships me the chain and rail kit.
Spend around $1000 and under for someone to do it and save you in the long run or wait til it stretches or jumps and pay a MB stealership or other indy shop around 9k to rebuild your engine.
If your a DIY type guy. Go for it! and Good Luck.
I got a quote from MB the other day. They quoted me 9k. That was just pulling the head and machinging it. New cam kit with valves etc etc. Both Chains, rail , tensioner, oil change and oil filter and air filter.. etc etc list goes on. Also new vacuum pump if yours is not already leaking, but I have change my vacuum pump out already myself. It is quick and easy.
If you ever attempted to replace the belt tensioner yourself then most likely I say you can attemp this DIY. Will take a couple days from what I been reading.
Good luck VVF! Let me know what route you take.
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You can always get on ebay and order you the chain removal tool kit:
M271 C230 271 203
Thats the part number, it will cost you around 200 bucks, but you can always go to Harbor Freight and get you on there and modify it a little bit to work safely.
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...ker-66488.html
I don't know if it will fit, but I'm pretty sure you can find something better.
M271 C230 271 203
Thats the part number, it will cost you around 200 bucks, but you can always go to Harbor Freight and get you on there and modify it a little bit to work safely.
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...ker-66488.html
I don't know if it will fit, but I'm pretty sure you can find something better.
#17
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Thanks hahaitzmickey.
I don't think I will be DIYing it, without the necessary tools...
I had my vacuum pump replaced some time ago. Those dealers are cool Quoted me $340 to replace the windshield washer pump, a $30 part 0_o
For timing chain, one indy quoted me like $1200 for the job (parts+labor), but I've already bought everything except rails, and he does not usually work with customers' parts %-|
There is another local one who works on all Mercs, BMWs, VWs, Porsches etc in the area, but he seemed extremely uninterested, and told me M271 is a POS and I should trade it and get a V6 lol. I'd rather keep mine and pay $1200 lol
Weird that he wasn't aware that they still put M271s into 2012 cars.
Anyways, I will keep you updated on my outcome. Not sure how soon though. With the first indy, I will also have to rent a car. So magically $1200 is transforming into $1500
Good luck to you on your huge undertaking!
I don't think I will be DIYing it, without the necessary tools...
I had my vacuum pump replaced some time ago. Those dealers are cool Quoted me $340 to replace the windshield washer pump, a $30 part 0_o
For timing chain, one indy quoted me like $1200 for the job (parts+labor), but I've already bought everything except rails, and he does not usually work with customers' parts %-|
There is another local one who works on all Mercs, BMWs, VWs, Porsches etc in the area, but he seemed extremely uninterested, and told me M271 is a POS and I should trade it and get a V6 lol. I'd rather keep mine and pay $1200 lol
Weird that he wasn't aware that they still put M271s into 2012 cars.
Anyways, I will keep you updated on my outcome. Not sure how soon though. With the first indy, I will also have to rent a car. So magically $1200 is transforming into $1500
Good luck to you on your huge undertaking!
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Yea, I thought about that. Saw those kits on ebay.
The original riveting tools run about additional $800 though O_O
To be able to modify generic stuff I need yet more tools...
Guess I might save about $400, but will have to spend a lot of time, which I don't have too much...
The original riveting tools run about additional $800 though O_O
To be able to modify generic stuff I need yet more tools...
Guess I might save about $400, but will have to spend a lot of time, which I don't have too much...
#19
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get a chain brake from harbor freight and you can cut the chain with a bolt cutter...
thats how I did it at least, the whole process took me about a day to complete and that was taking my time, ended up doing it 2x because after my first go, I found that my timing was off so I had to readjust the chain...whole process is not really that difficult, just takes patience...
also NO YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REPLACE THE GUIDES IF THEY'RE IN GOOD SHAPE...I didn't replace mine, but I did replace the tensioner, keep in mind you need to get a replacement cap for the tensioner from the dealer because after doing it 2x I couldn't find a way to remove it w/o destroying it...
thats how I did it at least, the whole process took me about a day to complete and that was taking my time, ended up doing it 2x because after my first go, I found that my timing was off so I had to readjust the chain...whole process is not really that difficult, just takes patience...
also NO YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REPLACE THE GUIDES IF THEY'RE IN GOOD SHAPE...I didn't replace mine, but I did replace the tensioner, keep in mind you need to get a replacement cap for the tensioner from the dealer because after doing it 2x I couldn't find a way to remove it w/o destroying it...
#20
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Hmm... Thanks for the info maverik.
So how did you pull the new chain through?
I was thinking - cams held in place by two wrenches tied together while you are cranking the engine and fishing in the chain? Bypassing the cam sprockets?
Or do you try and keep the time in sync?
How did you rivet - used the harbor freight breaker with a rounded pin?
So how did you pull the new chain through?
I was thinking - cams held in place by two wrenches tied together while you are cranking the engine and fishing in the chain? Bypassing the cam sprockets?
Or do you try and keep the time in sync?
How did you rivet - used the harbor freight breaker with a rounded pin?
#21
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attach the new chain to the old chain and pull it through...
you dont have to hold the cams, but you need to ensure the crank is lined up at "0"...and that the arrows on the cams are lined up PERFECTLY or your timing will be off, I still think mine is off but I think its w/in the tolerances for the ECU to correct for.
and ya i used the breaker tool to push the pins back together and used the bolt cutter to actually break it
you dont have to hold the cams, but you need to ensure the crank is lined up at "0"...and that the arrows on the cams are lined up PERFECTLY or your timing will be off, I still think mine is off but I think its w/in the tolerances for the ECU to correct for.
and ya i used the breaker tool to push the pins back together and used the bolt cutter to actually break it
#22
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It's too bad we're all so spread out on the map.
I owned a FIAT and belonged to a local club, and they had tools
you could borrow, which was good since to adjust the valves on a FIAT you
need shims, and special tools, + I got them to buy these special
wrenches for retorquing the head.
They were only $50 but it made sense for the club to buy them and not me, since I
only needed them once.
There's some great threads with pics around here for doing the M271 head, and then there's this one for the M111.
http://www.kokes.net/slk/Engine_head...ead_remove.htm
For the M111, you can pick up a junkyard engine for about a grand, so it is tempting to just replace it. How much longer before I can just go to the pick and pull, and nab an engine and tranny? Another year or 2 and C Coupes will be there for the pickin' ha!
I owned a FIAT and belonged to a local club, and they had tools
you could borrow, which was good since to adjust the valves on a FIAT you
need shims, and special tools, + I got them to buy these special
wrenches for retorquing the head.
They were only $50 but it made sense for the club to buy them and not me, since I
only needed them once.
There's some great threads with pics around here for doing the M271 head, and then there's this one for the M111.
http://www.kokes.net/slk/Engine_head...ead_remove.htm
For the M111, you can pick up a junkyard engine for about a grand, so it is tempting to just replace it. How much longer before I can just go to the pick and pull, and nab an engine and tranny? Another year or 2 and C Coupes will be there for the pickin' ha!
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Yea I was quoted $3000 for a another engine at 88k and my buddy mechanic will drop it in for me for $500 bucks. Plus I would rebuild the engine before I even dropped it in . So i would of spent a total of 5k for a rebuild and swap. I would of try to sell my old engine for at least 2k
But i'm going to attempt to break it down with my buddy assistance who is a master mechanic. *He will be doing most of the work, I'll just hand him the tool and drink my beer*
But i'm going to attempt to break it down with my buddy assistance who is a master mechanic. *He will be doing most of the work, I'll just hand him the tool and drink my beer*
#24
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Hey maverik,
Found your thread on replacing the chain: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ll-sudden.html
So basically your chain was ok, and the issue was somewhere else?
Did/does your car sound like this:
at 0:10 ?
(This clip is from lilbenz's car)
Found your thread on replacing the chain: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ll-sudden.html
So basically your chain was ok, and the issue was somewhere else?
Did/does your car sound like this:
(This clip is from lilbenz's car)
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get a chain brake from harbor freight and you can cut the chain with a bolt cutter...
thats how I did it at least, the whole process took me about a day to complete and that was taking my time, ended up doing it 2x because after my first go, I found that my timing was off so I had to readjust the chain...whole process is not really that difficult, just takes patience...
also NO YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REPLACE THE GUIDES IF THEY'RE IN GOOD SHAPE...I didn't replace mine, but I did replace the tensioner, keep in mind you need to get a replacement cap for the tensioner from the dealer because after doing it 2x I couldn't find a way to remove it w/o destroying it...
thats how I did it at least, the whole process took me about a day to complete and that was taking my time, ended up doing it 2x because after my first go, I found that my timing was off so I had to readjust the chain...whole process is not really that difficult, just takes patience...
also NO YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REPLACE THE GUIDES IF THEY'RE IN GOOD SHAPE...I didn't replace mine, but I did replace the tensioner, keep in mind you need to get a replacement cap for the tensioner from the dealer because after doing it 2x I couldn't find a way to remove it w/o destroying it...