kattanh3's W203 build-up thread
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Medford (Boston), MA
'05 C230 kompressor & '08 R350 4Matic
kattanh3's W203 build-up thread
Intro
Just got the car less than two months ago and thought I'd post a build-up thread and see things progress. The car is currently all stock. I'll probably end up mostly doing esthetics. I'm a grad student and will probably just keep the car for two years and I have a 9 months old son... I guess I shouldn't go all crazy on mods.
Having that said, I like to start with the end result in mind so I've already ordered some parts. I originally wanted to get a staggered BBS LM-R (reps) with blue MB center cap (matching the flat hood emblem) and matching front break theme. But I couldn't find a good wheel set to work with, so I opted for staggered 18" BBS LM's with 40/35 profiles.
I'll try to keep my signature detailed as possible in order to share specs.
Just got the car less than two months ago and thought I'd post a build-up thread and see things progress. The car is currently all stock. I'll probably end up mostly doing esthetics. I'm a grad student and will probably just keep the car for two years and I have a 9 months old son... I guess I shouldn't go all crazy on mods.
Having that said, I like to start with the end result in mind so I've already ordered some parts. I originally wanted to get a staggered BBS LM-R (reps) with blue MB center cap (matching the flat hood emblem) and matching front break theme. But I couldn't find a good wheel set to work with, so I opted for staggered 18" BBS LM's with 40/35 profiles.
I'll try to keep my signature detailed as possible in order to share specs.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,067
Likes: 11
From: Westwood, NJ
2004 Civic Si. FWD for the Win!
Geez, the C class really doesn't hold any value. 
Nice pick-up for you, though.
Those rims will look very good, and with MA's roads, you'll be glad you didn't get an bigger.
One suggestion would be to remove the "KOMPRESSOR" from the rear; car looks much cleaner without that little nugget.
Happy modding!
Nice pick-up for you, though.Those rims will look very good, and with MA's roads, you'll be glad you didn't get an bigger.
One suggestion would be to remove the "KOMPRESSOR" from the rear; car looks much cleaner without that little nugget.
Happy modding!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Medford (Boston), MA
'05 C230 kompressor & '08 R350 4Matic
Thanks tommy, yea I figured 19's will look better but having owned a 19 with 35/30 profile I know the ride in MA wouldn't be comfortable at all.
I'm not yet sure how I feel about debadging, but I know I will get rid of the "sport" fender emblems for sure.
I'm not yet sure how I feel about debadging, but I know I will get rid of the "sport" fender emblems for sure.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Medford (Boston), MA
'05 C230 kompressor & '08 R350 4Matic
Trending Topics
MB World Stories
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Manual Mercedes? 6 Times Sindelfingen Let Drivers Have All The Fun
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Verdad Gallardo
8 Classic Boxy Mercedes Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
Flawlessly Restored Mercedes 190E Evo II Heads to Auction
Verdad Gallardo
Electric Mercedes C-Class Unveiled: 11 Things You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes EQS Gets A Major Update: Everything You Need to Know
Verdad Gallardo
5 Underrated Mercedes-Benz Models That Don't Get the Love They Deserve
Verdad Gallardo
Mercedes 300D Has Pushed Well Past 1 Million Miles and It Ain't Stopping
Verdad Gallardo
10 Most Reliable Mercedes-Benz Models You Can Buy Used
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Medford (Boston), MA
'05 C230 kompressor & '08 R350 4Matic
Looking around for blue w/ silver text BBS center caps... preferably a sticker since the wheels center bore are most probably 57.1 not 66.6
Here's a good link for anyone considering BBS center caps, not blue though
Also looking for a pair of R04CA bulbs
Here's a good link for anyone considering BBS center caps, not blue though
Also looking for a pair of R04CA bulbs
Last edited by kattanh3; Oct 7, 2012 at 02:53 AM. Reason: added a link
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Medford (Boston), MA
'05 C230 kompressor & '08 R350 4Matic
from the "Aftermarket Wheel Thread"
Just moving on this conversation here so I can keep track of things.
Stance Specs:
Stance Specs:
- Front:
- Size: 18x8.5
- ET: 45 (1.5" lip) + 20mm spacers (25mm effective offset)
- PCD: 5x112
- CB: 57.1 (machined to 66.6)
- Tires: 225/40/18
- Drop: >1.4" H&R Sport Spring (Part No. 52792) + half a coil cut for an even drop + Pad No. ???
- Rear:
- Size: 18x9.5
- ET: 48 (2.5" lip) + 25mm spacers (23mm effective offset)
- PCD: 5x112
- CB: 57.1 (machined to 66.6)
- Tires: 245/35/18
- Drop: 1.3" H&R Sport Spring (Part No. 52792) + Pad No. ???
Alright, so I settled for a Miro type 380 BBS LM reps. Specs are:
- Front: 18"x8.5" et:45mm +15~17mm spacers
- Rear: 18"x9.5" et:48mm +20mm spacers
Id go 215/40/18 front and 225/40/18 rear or 225/40/18 and 235/40/18. I usually like to keep the same sidewall height on if it's below 245 in width. With your 205/45 and 215/ 40 it's going to make it look like you have too much tire in the front and unproportioned from side view. You want the rear to look beefier
Thanks pww and phister.
phister, my understanding is that the profile is just a percentage of the tire width. That means that 225/40/18 and 205/45/18 on an 18x8.5" (or 216mm) wheel (as well as the stock 225/45/17 on a 17x7.5") will have identical tire diameters, only difference is stretch/poke. Same with both rear setups. None of them should look thiner than the other.
pww, you are running similar wheel widths with 20 and 26 effective offsets. What tire sizes did you use? I recall they were 225 and 255 but I don't recall the profiles.
I think the 205 & 215 might look too silly. If I'm understanding profiles correctly, then I'll probably stick to 225/40/18 and 245/35/18, that should give me a conservative stretch to go with my conservative offsets, and I'll just use 20 and 25 spacers to get 25 and 23 effective offsets. I'll also roll fenders as an extra measure. 245/40 @ rear would put my speedometer way off by 4% or so since it'll be 4% thicker than the OEM setup.
phister, my understanding is that the profile is just a percentage of the tire width. That means that 225/40/18 and 205/45/18 on an 18x8.5" (or 216mm) wheel (as well as the stock 225/45/17 on a 17x7.5") will have identical tire diameters, only difference is stretch/poke. Same with both rear setups. None of them should look thiner than the other.
pww, you are running similar wheel widths with 20 and 26 effective offsets. What tire sizes did you use? I recall they were 225 and 255 but I don't recall the profiles.
I think the 205 & 215 might look too silly. If I'm understanding profiles correctly, then I'll probably stick to 225/40/18 and 245/35/18, that should give me a conservative stretch to go with my conservative offsets, and I'll just use 20 and 25 spacers to get 25 and 23 effective offsets. I'll also roll fenders as an extra measure. 245/40 @ rear would put my speedometer way off by 4% or so since it'll be 4% thicker than the OEM setup.
The diameters between the two are slightly different the sidewall on the 205/45 is 2.5% taller and the radius is 0.7% larger a well. So they will actually look taller. The closest to the factory 225/45/17 is 215/40/18.
I personally would go with 225/40/18 & 235/40/18. That's what I previously had but I'm running 215/40/18 & 235/40/18 now. I don't care my speedometer is offoff because I use my Ark design gauge which lets me calibrate the size difference from the OEM so it reads correctly on the gauge.
I personally would go with 225/40/18 & 235/40/18. That's what I previously had but I'm running 215/40/18 & 235/40/18 now. I don't care my speedometer is offoff because I use my Ark design gauge which lets me calibrate the size difference from the OEM so it reads correctly on the gauge.
no but each tire sidewall is different, some are softer than others and some are stiffer so the stretch is going to be different. even 225/40 on a 18x8.5.has a minor stretch so the way a wheel measured is different from each manufacturer also. My CCW were about half an inch wider than what I expected lip to lip. Even where the tire bead sat it was liner than 9"
Just stick with sizes you choose, going lower than 215 on a 18x8.5 is to much imho. That's when lips really get beat up.
Just stick with sizes you choose, going lower than 215 on a 18x8.5 is to much imho. That's when lips really get beat up.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,054
Likes: 11
From: fort worth, tx
06 C230 SS 6spd
our fronts dont use pads. since you have the SS your rear will probably have the no. 1 pad already which is the thinnest. most with ss will get a no. 4 pad to get the stance correct but since youre gonna cut a half a coil you wont need to. also since youre going with the offset that low in the rear youll most likely need to grind down the bumper tabs and side molding tab so it doesnt cut up the tire.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,580
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco Bay area
C63 AMG
Looking around for blue w/ silver text BBS center caps... preferably a sticker since the wheels center bore are most probably 57.1 not 66.6
Here's a good link for anyone considering BBS center caps, not blue though
Also looking for a pair of R04CA bulbs
Here's a good link for anyone considering BBS center caps, not blue though
Also looking for a pair of R04CA bulbs
Loving those blue center caps
Make sure to post pics once you get the LM reps mounted!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Medford (Boston), MA
'05 C230 kompressor & '08 R350 4Matic
I'm considering swapping the whole interior into black as well as getting a w204 steering wheel conversion w/ paddle shifter. Any pointers would be appreciated.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Medford (Boston), MA
'05 C230 kompressor & '08 R350 4Matic
Never mind the steering wheel swap, sounds like a lot of hassle.
Paddle shift does not work on M111. In order to make 428 work on your car you need to have an engine that was once previously sold with paddle shift.
The EGS-2 with paddle shift, transmission controller only recognises combinations of transmission and engine which were previously built.
For example.
203035 is the M111 C180. Never had paddle shift.
203042 is the M271 C200K works fine
The combination of ECU, transmission and differential are also part of the ESP. If you change one then you need to change the SCN code for the ECU. Since we don't have that information available then it's a major nuisance to deal with.
The paddle shift enabling for the correct combination of hardware is a 2 min software routine.
* transmission controller
* SCM button (gear surround )
* 428 compatible steering spiral
I tried coding my m111 transmission and pretended that it was the same as m271 equivalent and then it had all kinds of problems with gear changes and it reads the error code as slipping friction rings.
Given enough time it would still be impossible to code the m111 combination because it had the wrong power curve.
The EGS-2 with paddle shift, transmission controller only recognises combinations of transmission and engine which were previously built.
For example.
203035 is the M111 C180. Never had paddle shift.
203042 is the M271 C200K works fine
The combination of ECU, transmission and differential are also part of the ESP. If you change one then you need to change the SCN code for the ECU. Since we don't have that information available then it's a major nuisance to deal with.
The paddle shift enabling for the correct combination of hardware is a 2 min software routine.
* transmission controller
* SCM button (gear surround )
* 428 compatible steering spiral
I tried coding my m111 transmission and pretended that it was the same as m271 equivalent and then it had all kinds of problems with gear changes and it reads the error code as slipping friction rings.
Given enough time it would still be impossible to code the m111 combination because it had the wrong power curve.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Medford (Boston), MA
'05 C230 kompressor & '08 R350 4Matic
I'll be dropping the car to the shop first thing in the morning, unfortunately the shop will not cut springs coil. Said that they might not sit properly and could come out when driving... is this true?
I'll install it as it is anyways and I'll see how I feel about that. I have a feeling that I'll cut it anyways after it settles.
I'll install it as it is anyways and I'll see how I feel about that. I have a feeling that I'll cut it anyways after it settles.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,054
Likes: 11
From: fort worth, tx
06 C230 SS 6spd
Cutting springs has been done forever. Our springs sit in grooves on the hat in front and on the pads in the rear. They won't come out when driving. There's too much weight compressing the suspension for it to fly out.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,067
Likes: 11
From: Westwood, NJ
2004 Civic Si. FWD for the Win!
There is at least one company here who would do a custom wheel mod to you stock one - as you've seen, much better to do that than go through the hassle of "upgrading".
Other options are
www.aglausa.com - had my wheel custom done by them
www.dallassteeringwheel.com - think I'm going to go through them for some custom work on both of my cars this winter - steering wheel for the CRX, sun visors for same, and have them re-do my Benz' armrest. Their prices are a bit higher than Alan's (agla), but more options, including alcantara, which I want.
I'm sure there are plenty of other places that do them too (I even did a wheelskins cover on my temporary steering wheel while I was waiting on Alan to finish my wheel, which for the $$, actually didn't feel too bad, I was surprised).
My point is - even in the tiny Mercedes aftermarket community, there are options out there. Just takes a bit of research to find them.
Other options are
www.aglausa.com - had my wheel custom done by them
www.dallassteeringwheel.com - think I'm going to go through them for some custom work on both of my cars this winter - steering wheel for the CRX, sun visors for same, and have them re-do my Benz' armrest. Their prices are a bit higher than Alan's (agla), but more options, including alcantara, which I want.
I'm sure there are plenty of other places that do them too (I even did a wheelskins cover on my temporary steering wheel while I was waiting on Alan to finish my wheel, which for the $$, actually didn't feel too bad, I was surprised).
My point is - even in the tiny Mercedes aftermarket community, there are options out there. Just takes a bit of research to find them.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Medford (Boston), MA
'05 C230 kompressor & '08 R350 4Matic
There is at least one company here who would do a custom wheel mod to you stock one - as you've seen, much better to do that than go through the hassle of "upgrading".
Other options are
www.aglausa.com - had my wheel custom done by them
www.dallassteeringwheel.com - think I'm going to go through them for some custom work on both of my cars this winter - steering wheel for the CRX, sun visors for same, and have them re-do my Benz' armrest. Their prices are a bit higher than Alan's (agla), but more options, including alcantara, which I want.
I'm sure there are plenty of other places that do them too (I even did a wheelskins cover on my temporary steering wheel while I was waiting on Alan to finish my wheel, which for the $$, actually didn't feel too bad, I was surprised).
My point is - even in the tiny Mercedes aftermarket community, there are options out there. Just takes a bit of research to find them.
Other options are
www.aglausa.com - had my wheel custom done by them
www.dallassteeringwheel.com - think I'm going to go through them for some custom work on both of my cars this winter - steering wheel for the CRX, sun visors for same, and have them re-do my Benz' armrest. Their prices are a bit higher than Alan's (agla), but more options, including alcantara, which I want.
I'm sure there are plenty of other places that do them too (I even did a wheelskins cover on my temporary steering wheel while I was waiting on Alan to finish my wheel, which for the $$, actually didn't feel too bad, I was surprised).
My point is - even in the tiny Mercedes aftermarket community, there are options out there. Just takes a bit of research to find them.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Medford (Boston), MA
'05 C230 kompressor & '08 R350 4Matic
1st batch (with issues)
Chapter 1 - Let the Modding Begin
Not up to my expectations but nevertheless a start is a start, regardless of the outcome lol. I sent a batch of parts to get installed at a good local shop, only problem was that the shop was relocating to a new facility. Sorry for the iPhone pics quality. I'll do a better job at taking pics once I get a decent result
H&R springs installed. At the moment, ride height didn't change much. I used to have a 3.5 fingers gap at the front (apx. 2"~2.5") between the tires and fender, and about 2.5 (1"~1.5") at the front. Right now it's more like 1.75 fingers at the front and 2 at the back, I'm confident that it'll get the advertised specs once it settles. The surprising part is that the car rides better and smoother. The "sport" fender emblem/stickers were removed.
The spoiler also was installed. Opted to use gule-gun rather the supplied double sided tape.
Installed 5000k LED rear license plates lights (not the AZNOptics). Very satisfied, they look good in real life, not as strong as in the pic here and they mach the HID kit perfectly.
Moving on to the headlights. The DEPO clear projector housing are great value for money. The cutouts aren't that great but then again aren't that bad either. Here's how it looks without the low-beam lights on.
With the low-beam HID 5000k lights on... The shop didn't install the AZNOptics 5000k parking lights to match the HID (or installed it elsewhere on my car. Didn't check thoroughly yet) but like I said earlier they were in the middle of a move and I'm happy that they accommodated me and they've got good customer service so I'm not worried.
Just couple of days after the install, driver-side HID went out. This is the first time I had issues with HID and I could use help trouble shooting. Should I check/order filament or ballast first? what are the most common causes: early wear (cuz it was for e.g. touched by bare hands) or electric issues? Anyways it was a cheap eBay kit that was supplied with the DEPO housing and clear side marker housing for less than $400 so I'd glad to change them before they start a fire or something.
Another issue was the side marker. I've changed it into clear housing and added AZNOptics 5000k LED. I like the absence of the amber housing a lot but I'm not feeling the end result, the light is somewhat green and does not match the HID at all. My guess is that this is due to the quality of the eBay housing. I'm thinking of going back to OEM lights (assuming that the bulbs were amber) and change down the road into euro-strips. P.M. me if you've got a white pair for sale!
Another issue that I've faced was that the AZNOptics 5000k LEDs that were meant to be installed for the license plate lights were used in the interior by mistake LOL. LED and light gray interior is not a good combo IMO, I'll rock the OEM amber lights later on.
I also got the OEM cargo net installed. Unfortunately, the kit doesn't come with all necessary parts, you'd still have to get the "D-rings" separately.
Hooks were supplied with the OEM kit.
Here's the temporary work-around. The D-rings are suppose to come out from this slit.
Also I removed the hideous dealer license plate frame and installed these bolts.
Not up to my expectations but nevertheless a start is a start, regardless of the outcome lol. I sent a batch of parts to get installed at a good local shop, only problem was that the shop was relocating to a new facility. Sorry for the iPhone pics quality. I'll do a better job at taking pics once I get a decent result
H&R springs installed. At the moment, ride height didn't change much. I used to have a 3.5 fingers gap at the front (apx. 2"~2.5") between the tires and fender, and about 2.5 (1"~1.5") at the front. Right now it's more like 1.75 fingers at the front and 2 at the back, I'm confident that it'll get the advertised specs once it settles. The surprising part is that the car rides better and smoother. The "sport" fender emblem/stickers were removed.
The spoiler also was installed. Opted to use gule-gun rather the supplied double sided tape.
Installed 5000k LED rear license plates lights (not the AZNOptics). Very satisfied, they look good in real life, not as strong as in the pic here and they mach the HID kit perfectly.
Moving on to the headlights. The DEPO clear projector housing are great value for money. The cutouts aren't that great but then again aren't that bad either. Here's how it looks without the low-beam lights on.
With the low-beam HID 5000k lights on... The shop didn't install the AZNOptics 5000k parking lights to match the HID (or installed it elsewhere on my car. Didn't check thoroughly yet) but like I said earlier they were in the middle of a move and I'm happy that they accommodated me and they've got good customer service so I'm not worried.
Just couple of days after the install, driver-side HID went out. This is the first time I had issues with HID and I could use help trouble shooting. Should I check/order filament or ballast first? what are the most common causes: early wear (cuz it was for e.g. touched by bare hands) or electric issues? Anyways it was a cheap eBay kit that was supplied with the DEPO housing and clear side marker housing for less than $400 so I'd glad to change them before they start a fire or something.
Another issue was the side marker. I've changed it into clear housing and added AZNOptics 5000k LED. I like the absence of the amber housing a lot but I'm not feeling the end result, the light is somewhat green and does not match the HID at all. My guess is that this is due to the quality of the eBay housing. I'm thinking of going back to OEM lights (assuming that the bulbs were amber) and change down the road into euro-strips. P.M. me if you've got a white pair for sale!
Another issue that I've faced was that the AZNOptics 5000k LEDs that were meant to be installed for the license plate lights were used in the interior by mistake LOL. LED and light gray interior is not a good combo IMO, I'll rock the OEM amber lights later on.
I also got the OEM cargo net installed. Unfortunately, the kit doesn't come with all necessary parts, you'd still have to get the "D-rings" separately.
Hooks were supplied with the OEM kit.
Here's the temporary work-around. The D-rings are suppose to come out from this slit.
Also I removed the hideous dealer license plate frame and installed these bolts.
Last edited by kattanh3; Oct 26, 2012 at 10:23 AM. Reason: silly typos
