StillNDADIRT

So I've had the 2002 C230 Coupe for almost a year now although I have driven it less that 1000 miles since I've had it. The car has 80,000 miles on it. When it was sitting in my shop the battery went bad and I replaced the battery. Once I put the new battery in the car I was not able to start the car until I started messing with the shifter. I used the release by the shifter that takes the car out of park if the car won't start, then after messing around in the trunk I tried the key and it started. A few times after that when the car wouldn't crank I could use the tow release thing by the shifter to take the car out of park then put it back in park and it would start. Sometimes when the car is running it won't go in gear and I have to stick a pen on something down the hole to release it from park. So a couple days ago I was away from home with the car and it wouldn't crank for anything, I had to leave the car and get a ride home. Then I wondered if opening the hatch had anything to do with it starting in my shop so I went back to the car to try it. After trying to crank the car again I open the hatch and tried cranking it and nothing. Then I close the hatch and bam it starts right up. What is going on?

Another issue is if I take off immediately after starting the car the doors will not lock and the car will not shifter out of first no matter what. After a minute or two the doors will lock and the car will shift out of first. This has happened three times and only after the problem starting the car.

The car is showing 2 faults on the dash ABS and something to do with the electrical system I believe, I'll have to check on that.

I'm thinking either the computer is back or something needs to be reset or maybe a mouse chewed some wires. What do you guys think?

Peydidy

Would it also hold your key some times and not let it fully go back to the position you need to be to take it out?

StillNDADIRT

No, the key always go back to where I can take it out.

tommy

It would help to know what the other warning is for.

My guess is that the new battery hookup did some damage. Or the SAM is messed up. The 02 coupes have more than their share of electronic gremlins.

SunnyRayToronto

Did you replace with OEM Mercedes-Benz battery or aftermarket?

Any OBD2 codes showing up?

StillNDADIRT

It is an aftermarket battery. Check Engine light is on & ABS light is on. I am getting 2 Faults,

Visit Workshop Display Faulty & Brake Lining Wear Visit Workshop. As for the brakes it has new aftermarket pads that are plugged in to the wires.

SunnyRayToronto

Did you install battery as per instruction in owners manual,... step by step,... if not you might have damaged Front SAM - Display, coolants, ESP, ABS, brakes, etc,... are monitored in Front SAM.

Mercedes are really fussy about battery,.... get OEM MB battery,.... avoid aftermarket stuff, just asking for problems.

What are specific OBD2 codes,... get a OBD2 scantool or have someone do it,...

C230 Sport Coup

Codes please. But yeah, SAM or oil in the wiring harnesses or both or all 3.

StillNDADIRT

When I took the old battery out, which was a tiny aftermarket battery I didn't really pay attention to which cable I was unhooking first because it was completely dead. When I hook up the new larger aftermarket battery I connected ground first then positive. There was an arc when I connected them that worried me.

Where do I get the scan tool?

tommy

If there's an Autozone near you, they'll scan it for you for free.

If you want your own, get it at Autozone, Amazon, ebay, Harbor Freight, Scangauge II (the one I have, which I like very much and have mounted in the car, so never have to worry about remembering where my scanner is).

Do a search - lots of scanner recommendations here. $60 -90 or so is about the ballpark.

SunnyRayToronto

Don't you think that useful information should have been disclosed in your first post???

The only questions now is what got toasted,.... front SAM or rear SAM.

Read this sticky and search,....
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...g-battery.html

C230 Sport Coup

There's always a tiny spark. Though I never connect the ground 1st.
And I always make sure everything is turned off, the interior lights off, the key NOT in the ignition (this is important!) so that the amount of current being drawn is as little as possible so the voltage spike as small as possible. Also, you want to make contact quickly and firmly, no arcing around multiple times.

Until you get the codes read, you're just wasting everyone's bandwidth.

StillNDADIRT

Thanks, I should be able to get it scanned this week.

Until then another stupid question. How do you post pics on here? Do you have to host the pics online on a photo site first?

SunnyRayToronto

*Go Advanced* then *paperclip attachments*

StillNDADIRT

It doesn't seem to work from my phone

StillNDADIRT

I picked up Scangauge ll from Auto zone today and scanned it. The codes were P0600 and P0128

SunnyRayToronto

P0128 Coolant Thermostat Coolant Temp Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature
P0600 Serial Communication Link Malfunction

P0128 means you need a new thermostat,.... search for DIY
P0600 means front SAM - CAN-bus not happy,.... do the P0128 first,... then clear code,... sometimes P0600 will just go away,....

But these two codes probably have nothing to do with your non-start shifting problem,....

Use genuine MB or OEM parts,.... put in an OEM MB battery,....

StillNDADIRT

Ok wheres the best place to get the oem battery and thermostat?