Hid kit problems w203 6000k and led fog lights.
I have problems when i just installed my h7 6000k hid kit i got from hid nation with cancellors and resistors!! The resistors got soo hot!! 🔥🔥 it burned the wires!? Is that a normal problem or what should i do!?
And same thing with the 76 led bulb type for the fogs i got
The cancellers and resistors get so hot, it can practically burn half the car down??
Please help!! Thanks
Options for hid and lights.
Thanks
I can try the direct fit probably.. But i shall see!! Can u send me pics of ur setup, is it just ballast to bulb setup and what year is your car make? Because i get dashboard signs for every light out lol!!
Thanks red.. Help me out...
QUOTE=red203;5454235]sorry resistor haha.....with my set up i did not experience any dash faults. its been about a week or so and still nothing. if everything works good without the resistor and cancelor and you get the fault i know you can take it to a shop and have them flash the system from xenon-present. i have a friend and in his benz that is what he had to have done.[/QUOTE]
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but yea i think i have a 55 watt hid kit, and its burning my wires; so right now i have no lights at night lol :/ a bit risky!! But please lett me know..Thanks red x
QUOTE=red203;5454370]i got the hid kit from a friend who sells them but refuses to tell the brand becuase he thinks ill start getting them from there myself haha. but its a 35watt...ive always had a bad experince from the overseas type so i try not to use them. i also have a slim ballast. i can take some pics tomorrow since i am at school and she is at home resting in the garage. yup i just have bulb to ballast set up. mines a 2006 c230 sport. the other reason i can think of you having issues is becuase your hid kit maybe too high of a voltage. whats the voltage of yours? i read some other threads before doing mine and they talked about how having a too high of voltage will set off the dash light becuase the car thinks its not correct.[/QUOTE]
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QUOTE=red203;5454424]yea no problem ill ask him if u want to pm me your email adress ill have him contact you.also i know there were people in other posts speaking of a sponsor on the site who sells the kits. maybe if u wanna look into that also.[/QUOTE]
Because i dont want to get into a big hassle yea...
Thanks!! No pm yet lol
Also the wattage of the ballast and bulb isnt going to make it run too hot. I have the Morimoto 5Five ballast and 50w bulbs from TRS and it doesnt run hot. I just ordered their CANBUS harness to go along with it.
It sound likes something might be flipped backwards or the company put the resistors/capacitor on backwards because the resistors connect between the OEM H7 harness to the ballast so it seems as though there is something going on between the OEM H7 harness to the ballast, the ballast only require 12v input, the watts of 35w or 50w is the output of what the ballast puts out into the bulb, the 50w ballast just tries and squeeze every bit of lumen your HID system can put out. You can see the difference between the two in the pic below.

Also heres a DIY if you want to tackle doing your own resistor/capacitor setup. I did this setup on my old HID kit and worked great for 2 years before I switched to the Morimoto setup. its an easy easy DIY, its just attaching the resistor/capacitor between the power and ground wire of the ballast harness going to the H7 connector. all it does is load enough power to start up the ballast and keeps voltage stored up to keep the kit from flickering.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...es-models.html
Last edited by phister; Dec 3, 2012 at 08:24 PM.
Thanks for the support everyone

Also the wattage of the ballast and bulb isnt going to make it run too hot. I have the Morimoto 5Five ballast and 50w bulbs from TRS and it doesnt run hot. I just ordered their CANBUS harness to go along with it.
It sound likes something might be flipped backwards or the company put the resistors/capacitor on backwards because the resistors connect between the OEM H7 harness to the ballast so it seems as though there is something going on between the OEM H7 harness to the ballast, the ballast only require 12v input, the watts of 35w or 50w is the output of what the ballast puts out into the bulb, the 50w ballast just tries and squeeze every bit of lumen your HID system can put out. You can see the difference between the two in the pic below.

Also heres a DIY if you want to tackle doing your own resistor/capacitor setup. I did this setup on my old HID kit and worked great for 2 years before I switched to the Morimoto setup. its an easy easy DIY, its just attaching the resistor/capacitor between the power and ground wire of the ballast harness going to the H7 connector. all it does is load enough power to start up the ballast and keeps voltage stored up to keep the kit from flickering.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...es-models.html
Thanks for the support everyone

Also the wattage of the ballast and bulb isnt going to make it run too hot. I have the Morimoto 5Five ballast and 50w bulbs from TRS and it doesnt run hot. I just ordered their CANBUS harness to go along with it.
It sound likes something might be flipped backwards or the company put the resistors/capacitor on backwards because the resistors connect between the OEM H7 harness to the ballast so it seems as though there is something going on between the OEM H7 harness to the ballast, the ballast only require 12v input, the watts of 35w or 50w is the output of what the ballast puts out into the bulb, the 50w ballast just tries and squeeze every bit of lumen your HID system can put out. You can see the difference between the two in the pic below.

Also heres a DIY if you want to tackle doing your own resistor/capacitor setup. I did this setup on my old HID kit and worked great for 2 years before I switched to the Morimoto setup. its an easy easy DIY, its just attaching the resistor/capacitor between the power and ground wire of the ballast harness going to the H7 connector. all it does is load enough power to start up the ballast and keeps voltage stored up to keep the kit from flickering.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...es-models.html
heres the basic diagram with the AMP bulb harness.
Last edited by phister; Dec 4, 2012 at 10:19 AM.
Phister you got which hid kit, that is plug and play? I could probably invest in that
save me some money and time..Also i have 9006 led bulbs same problem.. I dont know why the resistors get damn hot like wtf :/
They also sell a 35w ballast and bulb. They have full kits that come with the ballast, bulb, canbus harness for like 150 and come with a full warranty for a year or two. They have top notch custom service and is well know. You get what you pay for.
I want to find a ballast that is a direct fit and no hassles at all, and those won't get that hot!!

and heres the AMP bulbs
In the second picture is that the resistor?



