Car Shakes when cornering
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2005 c230 sport
Car Shakes when cornering
I have a 2005 c230 sport with roughly 200k on it. About a month ago I noticed if the right front hit a bump I would hear a clunk. But if I hit a bump with both front tires I don't hear the clunk. Then we had a major rain storm and I went through a puddle and after that my right front rotor was warped. It would pulse the brake pedal and steering wheel. So I replaced all the brakes and rotors. Which solved that problem. Now if I'm going faster then 65km and cornering to the left I get a vibration through the car plus the original clunk in the right front is still there. Any help on what the problem could be?
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It possibly sounds like it could be an issue with the control arm or control arm bushing.
Based on the mileage, it's possible the ball joint or bushing could be worn.
Based on the mileage, it's possible the ball joint or bushing could be worn.
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Maybe try getting the car on a hoist and try moving the wheel with your hands to simulate turning. You may be able to hear some clunking. I would suggest having a repair shop/technician looking at it. It could also be an upper strut mount as well.
Does it happen at other speeds or while going straight, or is it just while turning?
Does it happen at other speeds or while going straight, or is it just while turning?
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So I jacked up the car and with my hand on the top and bottom of the wheel there is a little movement. It is the same on both side. But with my hands on both sides of the wheel there is a lot of movement on the right side with all most no movement on the left side of the car. So does that mean the tie rod is bad. How do you know if it is the inner or outer one?
#6
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Get someone to watch tie rod ends, Thust arm ends & bushings etc for play while you do that.
At your mileage it would be a good idea to give the front suspension a freshen up as needed.
At your mileage it would be a good idea to give the front suspension a freshen up as needed.
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Thank for the info Glyn And Steve. I finally got the car up in the air and found that it is the lower control arm that is the problem. So now I'm going to look for a DYI guide on replacing the lower control arm.
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#8
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You will find the method in the W203 Wiki.
https://mbworld.org/wiki/index.php/F..._arm_R%26R.pdf
https://mbworld.org/wiki/index.php/F...rmR%26R-1-.pdf
https://mbworld.org/wiki/index.php/F..._arm_R%26R.pdf
https://mbworld.org/wiki/index.php/F...rmR%26R-1-.pdf
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Hey Glyn just got my new lower control arm and a little confused. I was looking at a bunch of old posts that show the bolt from the factory doesn't have two groves cut into it.(or I'm I looking at something else) But my new control arm has four nipples inside the bushing so you can adjust the camber. So do I need to get a new bolt from Mercedes or does the old one in my car have the groves. I have not removed the old one from the car yet.
Last edited by Diddy_76; 01-02-2013 at 10:50 PM. Reason: spelling
#10
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The standard factory bolt is not fluted & goes in the center position of the three way bush. If you have no alignment problems then just refit the factory bolt in the center position.. If you have alignment problems then you need to buy the fluted bolt.
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13 Jeep JKU Sahara w/4" lift Kit & the works,2015 Toyota Sienna XLE,2013 Hyundai Sonata Hybrid
I recently replaed both the control arms on my c230, pm me your contact number so I can share my experience with you......Also chee your sway bar bushings I am 100% sure that they must be shot too.....mine were and I am at just 86k miles.....and one more thing only buy Lemforder OEM parts....any other will 100% fail in 1yrs time.....but if you are looking to sell the car then it is a different story.....
Did everything to spec from all the torque spec's gathered here and from little help from glynn....
javvy
Did everything to spec from all the torque spec's gathered here and from little help from glynn....
javvy
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