Blashbenz

Hello everyone thinking about replacing the timing chain as maintenance before I experience any problems with it. Car is an 05 c230 kompressor. Have read lots of great info on this forum and feel confident so far. Is there anyone out there that has shop manual directions for this. Thanks in advance for any input.

kluvsbenz

You should look up this guy named "Hogger" that is on this W203 forum. Do a search on him and he'll have the skinny on the timing chain

Glyn M Ruck

Hogger thread excellent. Procedure is in the Wiki.

C230 Sport Coup

Yes, the Bubba Watson of car repair FTW !

Blashbenz

Thanks Ill check with Hogger

Peydidy

How many miles are you at?

Blashbenz

Im at 80k miles

sammydragon3

im at 82k miles and ever since like 55k miles it seems at start up i hear the timing chain hitting something.

it seems like when i drive over 5k rpms at night the next morning the noise is gone

Hogger

Good idea to replace it before you have any issues. It will make the job much easier, and cheaper.

Blashbenz

yeah thats what I was thinking about prevention. I havent owned the car long enough Sammy to know if theres been a change in the sound of the motor since I purchased it with 75K. Im just going to error on the side of caution and hopefully avoid future headaches. Does anyone know the procedure for installing the timing chain tensioner and the torque requirements. Seems straight forward but would rather get some input prior too Thanks

Mercury

How much does it cost if I have dealer/Indy shop replaced it?

mtnman82

I'd like to tackle this in the near future too, but need to finish other car repairs first - hoping the chain holds on long enough... I checked out the Wiki but didn't see any procedure for the m271 (if I'm being blind maybe someone can point it out to me/us - Glyn?). I've got ~95K miles on her now.

Hogger - are we talking about just replacing the timing chain? Breaking the old chain and using it to feed the new chain thru? Or are we talking about replacing the tensioner along with the chain? And if we're replacing the tensioner too, does that mean I'm taking off the front engine cover?

I'm also interested in any DIY procedure, along with torque values. I'm going to review Hogger's thread too.

Blashbenz

Just starting to put together a parts list does anyone know if these are oem? Timing chain (Iwis part number 000 993 21 76) for +/- 50us, Timing chain tensioner (Iwis part number 271 050 06 11) for +/- 75us. Found a few sites with these parts and they say they are oem parts. Just want to confirm prior to ordering. Valve cover gasket mb#2710160921 17us at dealer. Can anyone think of any other parts I am missing or should replace while I am there? the spark plug gaskets? etc.. Just curious because a victor reinz gasket set includes them all together. Thanks for all the input.

mtnman82

Glyn, I saw the procedure for R&R of the timing chain/tensioner in Hogger's thread - is that from WIS or the service CD?

Thnaks for posting part #'s Blashbenz!

Hogger

Mtnman82 - That is the easiest way to do it. I would also change the tensioner, it's a bit of a pain because you have to pull the alternator. But once the alternator is out, changing the tensioner is just popping the little plug out, unscrewing the old one and screwing in the new one. Probably need a new tensioner plug/seal when done. You'll most likely ruin the old one getting it out. You won't have to remove the front cover unless your changing the guides and balance chain like I did.

Blashbenz - I got the valve cover gasket from a dealer, and it included the spark plug gaskets. Good idea the change them anyways, they have a bad tendancy to leak. Don't know the part number, but order a new tensioner plug/seal. Like I said above, you'll destroy the old one getting it out.

Blashbenz

okay another question once you replace the chain does the new timing chain master link have to be presssed on with a special tool to secure it?, or does the new master link have a slide clip to secure it.?

Hogger

You will need to mushroom the pins when you put the link on. There is a special tool for it, but I think MB wants about $250 for it.
I ended up rolling the chain so the master link was on the top of one of the sporckets, so there is some support instead of sitting between the sprockets.
I used a chain breaker with a bolt in the opposite end, and a little divot drilled out just deep enough for the pin on the back side. This way I could keep the force as evenly distributed as possible. I was able to hammer the end of the pins pretty evenly without a tight link.
It's a little tricky because too much and you stiffen the link which could snap it. And too loose, the link could fall apart.
Not saying this is the right way, but that's how I did it.

Blashbenz

Thanks Hogger appreciate the advice........!!!

ambit

I did mine with a motorcycle chain breaker that I had on hand. A bicycle chain tool might work too?