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XFires are built on the r170 frame. I'd say that if you can use the ones discussed in this post, then these will fit also. Only difference is the use of steel tube instead of aluminum. Just measure the size of your OEM arms. I believe our standard length between ends is 11.5 - 11.75 inches. That's why the use of 9" tube. 1/2" dia. bolts fit through each end. As long as no sway bars in the way and you have a straight shot between ends, these should work fine.
Awesome sir, now i just need to get under my car and take some measurements as I am yet to see a post where the 4matic version is listed.
Awesome sir, now i just need to get under my car and take some measurements as I am yet to see a post where the 4matic version is listed. Thanks!
More specs to look out for to make sure they fit into the end brackets....
On the rod ends: The overall width is 1.370" & rod end width is 1.050".
Center of mounting eye to end of threads is 2-7/8"
So you probably have a adjustable overall length of around 11.5 to nearly 13 inches using the 9" swedge tubes.
THE OTHER ALTERNATIVE IS TO FIX IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME WITH K-MAC
Ex-factory there is only front and rear Toe adjustment for virtually all Mercedes 1968 to current models (and same with Chrysler Crossfire and 300C etc).
We saw the need therefore to manufacture precisely adjustable front Camber and Caster bushing kits with twice the adjustment range of these basic one setting offset bolts.
Then for the rear a Camber adjuster kit that unlike upper adjustable arms does not move the top of the tire outwards when adjusting to resolve premature inner edge wear which is an important factor to prevent tires scuffing outer fenders if wide profile tires/rims fitted.
Other advantage with K-MAC rear kits - unlike spherical bearings there is no harsh metal to metal contact and 20 years of proven experience - there's certainly no squeaks.
Also all K-MAC rear Camber adjusters include extra Toe adjustment which is essential to compensate accurately for the new Camber facility.
The K-MAC patented design front kits replace the 4 main suspension bushes - the unique design doubles the load bearing area thereby increasing wear life and also steering and braking response.
Similar design is used for the 4 main rear K-MAC bushings.
Result is precise single wrench front and rear (ongoing) adjustment to return vehicle to factory specs to resolve costly inner edge tire wear through altering height, fitting wide profile tires, load carrying, curb-knock damage and/or the advantage of being able to alter specs on track days.
^thats $860 for 8 bushings. Maybe for track use that's necessary but with this $86 DIY it appears that guys are still achieving damn near factory spec. +-1 degree.
$860 is two sets of tires............
I would need to see some serious data to warrant a $760 price difference to achieve 1 degree camber.
So you're going to fix the camber but get sh*tty tires?
Might as well not even do the arms; just replace the cheap tires with more when the uneven wear becomes intolerable.
So you're going to fix the camber but get sh*tty tires?
Might as well not even do the arms; just replace the cheap tires with more when the uneven wear becomes intolerable.
I didn't say that. I said that for the 1 degree off camber the DIY arms may adjust to it still leaves enough for two sets of tires when that 1 degree camber eventually wears your tires. After about 40,000 miles.
Times eight is $960 - $1,200, not $860, forgiving cheaper prices for smaller width fronts. Getting that price down to a hair over $100 each does not really afford for decent rubber, imho.
I do agree with the general principle that the K-Macs seem out of line on price; wouldn't be the first time that an MB aftermarket price was higher than with other applications, though.
F.Y.I. - Just passed 40,000 miles on a set of General G-Max with the DIY camber kit on my Crossy. Just now hitting the wear bars on the rear with totally even wear and still enough tread for maybe 5000 more miles. Couldn't be more impressed. With factory cambers I was lucky to get 15,000 miles max on 4 previous sets.
These DIY cambers have saved me around $750 over the K-Macs + $700 -$1000 on a set of prematurely worn tires. Didn't need the front K-Macs as the alignment bolts ($28 for 4 ea.) put me in spec perfectly. BAZINGA!
F.Y.I. - Just passed 40,000 miles on a set of General G-Max with the DIY camber kit on my Crossy. Just now hitting the wear bars on the rear with totally even wear and still enough tread for maybe 5000 more miles. Couldn't be more impressed. With factory cambers I was lucky to get 15,000 miles max on 4 previous sets.
These DIY cambers have saved me around $750 over the K-Macs + $700 -$1000 on a set of prematurely worn tires. Didn't need the front K-Macs as the alignment bolts ($28 for 4 ea.) put me in spec perfectly. BAZINGA!
For my W220 I used the Speedway parts, only I ordered the 10" tie rod sleeve instead of th 9" because the W220 camber arm is longer than the "C" or other smaller models.
One thing I should mention, 12mm does not equal 1/2. The stock pivot bolts are M12 and the metal bushing for the Speedway tie rod end has a 1/2" bore. It may not matter but there is enough clearance that you can feel the bolt move inside of the bushing. Definitely not Mercedes tight.
I went to the Ace Hardware store and bought a 12" piece of brass tubing 1/2 OD .014" thick. I had to run a 1/2 drill bit thru the bushing to get the brass tubing to slide. The inside diameter of the brass sleeve is much much closer to 12mm.
Does it really matter? Probably not, the rear suspension is under constant load, you'll never perceived the slight movement (if any). If don't sleeve it make the installation easier because of the slightly larger hole. It bothered me though that is why I sleeved the bushings. It also provides a bearing surface between the threads of the mounting bolts and the bushing.
Use lots of grease on all threads of all of the fasteners and bushing surfaces.
01-03-2014, 12:54 PM
