Speaker Questions
I'm thinking of a pair of 6.5" components up front and a pair of 6.5" coaxials in the back.
Some people mentioned that the Bose stereo had weird impedences, but I'm not sure if those problems apply to the standard stereo as well.
Thanks for your input.
When do I become a member?
If memory serves me correctly, one becomes member at 50 posts
WOW! Hold the phones, what happened? I'm back to 'Almost a Member'
Wassup
with that.
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Impedance is AC resistance and is variable,depending on the frequency of the fed signal......in a nut shell thats pretty much it......can we make that $5 closer to a £10?...lol
PS do you have a merchant account? I'd be glad to give you my Credit Card number for that 10 quid.
After seeing other posts I see you are an audiophile at least.
Last edited by WyattEarp; Mar 6, 2002 at 03:26 AM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I did change my standard speakers to the aftermarket ones. The standard speakers are 6.5" in the front and 5" at the back. However, the actual sizes for you to fit the aftermarket speakers are not exactly the same as the sizes of the standard ones. In my case two pairs of 6.5" speakers would fit the door nicely. I believe you need to try several brands of speakers with the same size to see which one fits the door perfectly.
If you read some of the old posts on the speaker issue you will see that my of us are very well educated in the fine art. The issue with the impedance of the Bose speakers is that people are measuring the DCR of the speaker, not the AC impedance. As you know, the impedance does vary with freq, but the nominal value is 4 ohms. The DCR is 2.7ohms. The drivers used in my stock system are very high quality and should not be changed as they are designed to work in the enclosure created in the door. You would be hard pressed to find a better driver with the same Qts, Vas, and Fs. In short, add a good sub and be happy! The neodimium magnet drivers in the mirror brace are of very high quality and good luck finding a better one that fits in that space too. MBQuart drivers are very nice, they might be making the OEM drivers used here in the non-Bose system. If you have any tech questions, I'm sure that one of us will be glad to answer in detail for you.
WOW! Hold the phones, what happened? I'm back to 'Almost a Member'
Wassup
with that.
Do 6.5's fit in front and back? If so I can't recommend any other brand for an MBZ other than MB QUART. Now sit back and listen.
My question still remains though...will changing the speakers for the STANDARD stereo (NOT the Bose) in the C Coupe yield a noticeable increase in sound quality?
You have Canadian posts; you have to convert them to US posts. So, right now, you've got about 29 posts.
Damn conversion rate.

At least we kicked some major US *** in hockey! HAH!
... In short, add a good sub and be happy! ....
What would it take to add a sub to the standard stereo? I'm looking for ideas. I'd prefer something compact and not sacrificing any trunk space
at the same time good quality.Thanks!
Wyatt,
If you read some of the old posts on the speaker issue you will see that my of us are very well educated in the fine art. The issue with the impedance of the Bose speakers is that people are measuring the DCR of the speaker, not the AC impedance. As you know, the impedance does vary with freq, but the nominal value is 4 ohms. The DCR is 2.7ohms. The drivers used in my stock system are very high quality and should not be changed as they are designed to work in the enclosure created in the door. You would be hard pressed to find a better driver with the same Qts, Vas, and Fs. In short, add a good sub and be happy! The neodimium magnet drivers in the mirror brace are of very high quality and good luck finding a better one that fits in that space too. MBQuart drivers are very nice, they might be making the OEM drivers used here in the non-Bose system. If you have any tech questions, I'm sure that one of us will be glad to answer in detail for you.
I tried to keep it a simple as possible for all to understand. After all, why should I use my 20 years of speaker and class A amp design if it goes too far over peoples heads. Vance's little orange book is a nice start, it will teach you a lot of the simple theory and concepts involved. Maybe after a while, you will be able to talk about Zobels and their influence on the impedance curve at crossover freq and the damage that they can do to phasing. Well, you get the idea. Next subject....:p
Hi mdp c230k!
What would it take to add a sub to the standard stereo? I'm looking for ideas. I'd prefer something compact and not sacrificing any trunk space
at the same time good quality.Thanks!
You need to get an enclusure custom made for you.
The amp would have to be somewhere else though...but there are MANY places where you could mount the amp without affecting the useability of your trunk.
You can fit a subwoofer where the spare tire is located.
You need to get an enclusure custom made for you.
The amp would have to be somewhere else though...but there are MANY places where you could mount the amp without affecting the useability of your trunk.
Would I have to install a cable from a headunit to the trunk to get the signal there, or there is something in place already?
Would I have to give-up the spare?
What about the small sub that comes with Bose, can it be used?
I've got an 8" (that one's for the ladies) sub in a Bazooka-type enclosure in my crx, and it doesn't take up too much room, if you're not wild about possibly losing the spare. Something similar would be a happy medium; there are tons of enclosures out there that would work. One of the firms (maybe JL?) has been making "hidden" boxes which blend in with the car, and just look like a small projection out into the trunk area. Maybe there's one for the ccoupe?
Oh, the hockey comeback was a good one!
But, all of those players are now dropping like flies! Hope they enjoy their gold medals.
I'll try to measure up the well size under the spare, although I'm not thrilled about being spareless.
Oh, I'm not looking for major-major bass, I just need something that will add a bit more low-freqs.
So a not-too-big-box for enclosure with a single woofer should do, right?
Sorry, I don't know much about subs :o
And what about running the wires from head unit? difficult? where should the signal for the sub.amp come from?
Box size depends on a lot of parameters, not just woofer size. Ported or sealed also has a big effect on it. You should use a ported box as they are more efficient. As a very rough guide a 6" woofer needs .5cuft, an 8" needs 1cuft, a 10" needs +1.5cuft (these are very rough - so please dont be a jackass and try and tell me how wrong I am - you know who you are!) To figure cuft just multiply w x h x d in inches and divide by 1728. Make the box practical, so a woofer of given size can be mounted in it, i.e. dont put an 8" woofer in box with 6" sides! As far as the hook-up goes, I'll leave that up to a good installer that is familiar with MB systems. It will most likely be speaker level input though. You can email me directly with any questions.
... so please dont be a jackass and try and tell me how wrong I am - you know who you are! ....
Really, I appreciate all these suggestions. Like I said, I know very little about these things but I'm learning
Thanks again.
I can tell you are not that type of person, there are other pompous asses that choose to display there insecurities by attempting to belittle others in order to create some sense of false self-value. I was just attempting to circumvent some brainiac trying to prove he knows more, is better, walks on water...you get the idea! I just want to be helpful with my knowledge
I only speak of that which I know, if I dont know I'll tell you that too
<I>(these are very rough - so please dont be a jackass and try and tell me how wrong I am - you know who you are!)</I>
I think mdp is talking about me VoyagerDude. I am not feeling very welcome at the moment
Last edited by WyattEarp; Mar 6, 2002 at 05:59 PM.


