MAF Clean or Replace?
When I did a search some say cleaning the MAF sensor (aka MAS) fixed it.
Others say, don't waste time cleaning, replace it.
What's your opinion?
(I don't want to ruin the sensor by cleaning it in case that's not the cause of these CEL codes).
Has anyone had a luck with an aftermarket/refurbished one instead of buying from a MB dealer?
Even the aftermarket one is pricey. AutoZone quoted me $270 for a refurbished/aftermarket one and $310 for a new Bosch (OEM?) MAF sensor. I'm MB dealer would sell at even higher price.
Does anyone have any experience and/or advice?
Thanks.
I'd rather just do it once and move on.
If a good amount of people here are saying that a dirty MAF is the reason for those codes, there's a pretty good chance they are right.
Thanks.
Your logic is what I would use too on the clean/buy decision.
Day 1 - When the CEL came on, I scanned it (too rich) and cleared w/o doing anything. The same CEL code came within 10 miles of driving, and the MPG was still low at 16-18 (used to be 24+ before the CEL).
Day 2- After doing some research, learned that reseating the air box to the MAF inlet duct fixed in some cases. Tried reseating the air box and cleared the CEL, but the same CEL code came back within 10 miles of driving.
Day 3 - After doing some research, learned that cleaning the MAF sensor fixed in some cases. Tried the cleaning and cleared the CEL, but the same CEL code came back on, but after about 30-40 miles of driving now. Also noticed the degraded MPG improved a bit as well, now around 20.
Just called AutoZone and they sell refurbished one for $270 and a new/Bosch for $310.
What brand did you get?
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M271 is a different matter alltogether. Different engine management system from different manifacturer (Siemens-VDO vs Bosch)



You can clean these, but it must be done properly. The sensor is a thermistor pellet in a hermetic glass container. The sensor is heated with a voltage and the volume of air flowing over the thermistor can be measured by changes in the current flowing in the pellet. The change is quite small and a very high impedance amplifier is needed to measure it. The problem is that current can also flow through contamination on the outside of the glass. A finger print will screw the pooch. The CRC MAF cleaner used strictly according to the directions will remove greases, oil, and plain old dirt that interfere with an otherwise working sensor. The chemical dries to the eye pretty fast, but is still present for a little while. I put the unit back in the car and start the engine. The air filter will prevent new contaminates, and the sheer volume of air will dry it in seconds.
The MPG of my 2006 C230 gradually and GREATLY improved over the last 2 weeks (about 3 full tanks of fuel) from the previous disgusting 16 MPG (when I had P2188/P2190 Check Engine Light on).
The driving condition was 90% hwy @60 mph & 10% city with A/C always on when the photo was taken.

I also did following prior to getting the above MPG.
1. New Bosch plugs
2. New air filters
3. Cleaned air intake & fuel system with BG Products shown below.


Last edited by chazman; Jul 29, 2013 at 02:20 PM.
guess they can become slow after almost 200,000 miles and 12 years.
I'm not sure how accurate or inaccurate my C230's built-in dash computer is. But it doesn't really matter for this thread's discussion - because I used to get only miserable 16 MPG according to the dash display!

The MPG of my 2006 C230 gradually and GREATLY improved over the last 2 weeks (about 3 full tanks of fuel) from the previous disgusting 16 MPG (when I had P2188/P2190 Check Engine Light on).
The driving condition was 90% hwy @60 mph & 10% city with A/C always on when the photo was taken.

I also did following prior to getting the above MPG.
1. New Bosch plugs
2. New air filters
3. Cleaned air intake & fuel system with BG Products shown below.








