Finally fixing my balance shaft!
10-28-2013, 10:25 PM
#77
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2007 C230 and 1985 Monte SS
Yes still issues. It idles and runs well. Sometimes it won't start. It cranks over until it stops. If I remove the key and try again, sometimes it will fire right up. Sometimes it will start several times in a row, and sometimes it will fail several times. It seems to be about 50/50. No codes, but the o2, 2 air, and evap readyness monitors are not ready yet. I havent really hammered it too hard, but it definitely doesnt seem down on power.
11-02-2013, 09:50 AM
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2007 C230 and 1985 Monte SS
Probably about 20-30 miles now. I went last night and got good gas and put a bottle of techron concentrate in there and drove it around some more. I still don't have the secondary air or evap system readyness monitors online yet. Everything else is ready. It seems to be a little down on power too...
11-02-2013, 11:56 AM
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2007 C230 and 1985 Monte SS
I started going over things and found that there was a little bit of oil in the left exhaust cam magnet connector. I have 4 new ones in the box of parts, so I replaced it. After driving it around for a while, I'm pretty convinced that it is not down on power. It seems to have a little more power than yesterday, but maybe it's in my head. I was driving my other car right before the MB yesterday, and the Focus ST has 270 ft-lb, so it could be playing tricks on my butt dyno.
Still doesn't start every time. The secondary air is now ready, the evap is still not. Sometimes, if you let it crank until it quits, you can hear a faint putter out of the exhaust, almost like it wanted to start.
Still doesn't start every time. The secondary air is now ready, the evap is still not. Sometimes, if you let it crank until it quits, you can hear a faint putter out of the exhaust, almost like it wanted to start.
11-05-2013, 07:46 AM
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2007 C230 and 1985 Monte SS
Read in another thread that fuel pressure should be 3.7-4.2 bar. 3.7 is 55 psi and we measured about 52 psi. It didnt bleed down at all after half an hour. My friend doesn't think its a fuel pressure problem. The pressure didn't change between instances where it would or wouldn't start. He also pulled the cps plug while the engine was running and it killed the engine immediately but didn't throw a code. I drove the car to work today and it ran fine, no MIL, and still wouldn't start on the second attempt once parking at work.
There's no reason that running 5w30 would have an effect on this, right? The TSB says to use cheap oil for the break-in period and then change back to Mobil 1. There was nothing conventional in 0w40 (or 0w-anything) that I could find.
There's no reason that running 5w30 would have an effect on this, right? The TSB says to use cheap oil for the break-in period and then change back to Mobil 1. There was nothing conventional in 0w40 (or 0w-anything) that I could find.
11-05-2013, 08:04 AM
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2003 CL203 C320, 2002 W208 CLK320 cabriolet, 2012 A207 E350 cabriolet, 2011 X204 GLK350 4matic
Great job, Monte. I hope everything works out for you.
I wouldn't think that running 5w-30 would cause a problem, but with these cars you never know. If one thing in the universe is wrong, the car will just quit. That being said, they're perfect when everything is perfect!
I wouldn't think that running 5w-30 would cause a problem, but with these cars you never know. If one thing in the universe is wrong, the car will just quit. That being said, they're perfect when everything is perfect!
11-05-2013, 03:00 PM
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2007 C230 and 1985 Monte SS
Thanks 
Agreed - When everything is working, they are a pleasure to drive.
I tried starting the car up this afternoon (just one attempt) and it didn't fire up. I had mentioned earlier that it seemed to fire up on the first try if it had sat for a while, hoping to gain some insight from that. It seems that it's not the case... it seems totally random.
Agreed - When everything is working, they are a pleasure to drive.
I tried starting the car up this afternoon (just one attempt) and it didn't fire up. I had mentioned earlier that it seemed to fire up on the first try if it had sat for a while, hoping to gain some insight from that. It seems that it's not the case... it seems totally random.
03-02-2014, 06:09 PM
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2006 C230
Thank you SickSpeedMonte for all of the time and effort you put into sharing your experience here and on UTube. I am in the process of replacing the balance shaft on my 2006 C230 and have found your posts and video to be an invaluable resource. I can’t thank you enough.
Unfortunately, despite your warning, the pin I used on my right exhaust cam gear slipped due to my choice of a pin that was much too small. In solving the problem, however, I think that I may have found a method of aligning the gears that does not require fabrication of a tool or manipulation (and possible damage) of the gear teeth.
First, I had to find an appropriate pin that would fit the retaining hole and gears. To do this, I purchased 3mm hardened steel rod from McMaster-Carr. The two 12 in. rods cost $20.57 and arrived in 4 days (California). I found that the rods would not initially fit in the holes, so I stuck them in a drill and machined them to size using 120 grit emery cloth between my fingers. 30-40 seconds of sanding did the trick. The emery cloth was standard cloth used to prepare copper pipe for soldering.
The gear is basically three pieces, those being the body, cover plate and spring loaded backlash gear floating between the body and cover plate. The cover plate is bolted to the body with five torx bolts. The backlash gear has a small plate welded on its side into which the retaining pin is placed. To move the gear, I found it possible to grasp the retaining pin plate and the closest cover plate bolt in the jaws of 10 in. channel lock pliers. Squeezing the channel locks will move the gear to the desired position with minimal effort. Once the gears are aligned, simply insert the pin and you’re done!
Unfortunately, despite your warning, the pin I used on my right exhaust cam gear slipped due to my choice of a pin that was much too small. In solving the problem, however, I think that I may have found a method of aligning the gears that does not require fabrication of a tool or manipulation (and possible damage) of the gear teeth.
First, I had to find an appropriate pin that would fit the retaining hole and gears. To do this, I purchased 3mm hardened steel rod from McMaster-Carr. The two 12 in. rods cost $20.57 and arrived in 4 days (California). I found that the rods would not initially fit in the holes, so I stuck them in a drill and machined them to size using 120 grit emery cloth between my fingers. 30-40 seconds of sanding did the trick. The emery cloth was standard cloth used to prepare copper pipe for soldering.
The gear is basically three pieces, those being the body, cover plate and spring loaded backlash gear floating between the body and cover plate. The cover plate is bolted to the body with five torx bolts. The backlash gear has a small plate welded on its side into which the retaining pin is placed. To move the gear, I found it possible to grasp the retaining pin plate and the closest cover plate bolt in the jaws of 10 in. channel lock pliers. Squeezing the channel locks will move the gear to the desired position with minimal effort. Once the gears are aligned, simply insert the pin and you’re done!
03-02-2014, 09:40 PM
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2016 C450
To the original poster: Your timing is set incorrrectly. This is the cause of your issues. Also, the cam adjusters CANNOT be reset. Ever. It seems like you are able to turn them back and repin them but it is all in your head. the gear cannot be set back to the correct position, it requires full replacement.
11-28-2014, 04:18 PM
#88
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Hi SSM -- I've been following your thread and your other thread about the car not starting mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w203/520057-sometimes-won-t-start.html
What was the outcome of the intermittent no start?
What was the outcome of the intermittent no start?
02-26-2015, 09:45 PM
#89
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To the original poster: Your timing is set incorrrectly. This is the cause of your issues. Also, the cam adjusters CANNOT be reset. Ever. It seems like you are able to turn them back and repin them but it is all in your head. the gear cannot be set back to the correct position, it requires full replacement.
The sound of a reality bomb.
Mercedes was kind of new to the variable valve timing game and made the system so complicated.
Incorrect timing makes total sense, given the random start problems. Once the engine is running the system is correcting the timing then throwing the p0016 code.
Would this mean removing the engine again or just replacing the cam adjuster?
04-27-2015, 08:56 PM
#90
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HELLO SICKSPEED MONTE. I SEE YOUR PIC OF THE CAR ELEVATED. TELL ME; WHAT IS IT ELEVATED ON AND HOW DID YOU GET IT UP THERE.
THANK YOU SIR!
THANK YOU SIR!
05-22-2015, 07:55 AM
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2007 C230 and 1985 Monte SS
Not sure what you mean by elevated?
The no start was actually something stupid on my part. The cam window wheels have AR, AL, ER, and EL stamped on them. I looked up the German translations for intake, exhaust, left, and right, and whatever I found on Google translate told me that R was right, L was left, A was intake, and E was exhaust. I can't seem to replicate those when I tried just now... but it matched up at the time. So that's how I put them on and it turns out that A and E were for "inner" and "outer", so I had them backwards. At least that's what the dealer said when I gave up and took it to them. I had to pay $1,200 for 10 hours of labor and they comp'd the parts. I'm hoping I can get that money back in addition to the parts cost (another $1,050) in this balance shaft settlement. My time to repair probably won't be worth anything unfortunately.
www.BalanceShaftSettlement.com
The no start was actually something stupid on my part. The cam window wheels have AR, AL, ER, and EL stamped on them. I looked up the German translations for intake, exhaust, left, and right, and whatever I found on Google translate told me that R was right, L was left, A was intake, and E was exhaust. I can't seem to replicate those when I tried just now... but it matched up at the time. So that's how I put them on and it turns out that A and E were for "inner" and "outer", so I had them backwards. At least that's what the dealer said when I gave up and took it to them. I had to pay $1,200 for 10 hours of labor and they comp'd the parts. I'm hoping I can get that money back in addition to the parts cost (another $1,050) in this balance shaft settlement. My time to repair probably won't be worth anything unfortunately.
www.BalanceShaftSettlement.com
10-08-2015, 12:10 PM
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2006 Mercedes Benz E350 4Matic
SickSpeedMonte
Thank you for all the details and also your videos on YouTube, all this information help me perform the same repair on my wife car. I just replaced the balance shaft which was totally worn. I am in the middle of putting on the covers. I went thru the same issue with Mercedes Benz customer service and the class action lawsuit is not as good as everyone would might think. I am a retired master technician for General Motors and when the CTS came out with the 3.6 we were going thru the same problem but at least they were good willing the repair or even close to a 75% of it.
Thank you for all the details and also your videos on YouTube, all this information help me perform the same repair on my wife car. I just replaced the balance shaft which was totally worn. I am in the middle of putting on the covers. I went thru the same issue with Mercedes Benz customer service and the class action lawsuit is not as good as everyone would might think. I am a retired master technician for General Motors and when the CTS came out with the 3.6 we were going thru the same problem but at least they were good willing the repair or even close to a 75% of it.
11-04-2015, 12:24 AM
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C280 4matic
Great thread! Helped get me going on my balance shaft endeavor! Im about 50% complete.
In addition to your videos I watched all five of these MTC vids before digging in, they helped supplement whatever random PDFs I could find for torque specs and sealing paths.
http://www.mbusadigitalmedia.com/mtc...pic.aspx?id=44
If your still wondering where that metal corner piece goes its goes in the outer back corner of bank 4/5/6. You had to take it off to get to one of the valve cover bolts.
One question I did have is how did the exhaust timing gear work for you when you reset it after it unsprung? It seems that even after you took it to the stealership at the end they used the same ones? I dont see why you couldnt reset one if the pin pulled. I have my hunches its to takeout backlash to keep the straightcut gears quiet. Helical gears are way quieter but not as good/strong.
In addition to your videos I watched all five of these MTC vids before digging in, they helped supplement whatever random PDFs I could find for torque specs and sealing paths.
http://www.mbusadigitalmedia.com/mtc...pic.aspx?id=44
If your still wondering where that metal corner piece goes its goes in the outer back corner of bank 4/5/6. You had to take it off to get to one of the valve cover bolts.
One question I did have is how did the exhaust timing gear work for you when you reset it after it unsprung? It seems that even after you took it to the stealership at the end they used the same ones? I dont see why you couldnt reset one if the pin pulled. I have my hunches its to takeout backlash to keep the straightcut gears quiet. Helical gears are way quieter but not as good/strong.
07-19-2016, 08:15 AM
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E350 4Matic
Is front Differential removal required
slickSpeedMonte: I went through your post concerning the balancing shaft replacement. I had two questions:
1. Did you have to pull the froint CV axles and differential to remove the motor?
2. I noed you had a few issues regarding starting the car after you got it all back together -did you ever use the Mercedez softwherre to "relearn" the timing; if not (assuming all is well) how ddid you correct the starting issues you had?
Thanks
Wkboat17
1. Did you have to pull the froint CV axles and differential to remove the motor?
2. I noed you had a few issues regarding starting the car after you got it all back together -did you ever use the Mercedez softwherre to "relearn" the timing; if not (assuming all is well) how ddid you correct the starting issues you had?
Thanks
Wkboat17
07-30-2017, 10:25 AM
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'99 E430, '05 ML500, '15 GLK350
Not sure what you mean by elevated?
The no start was actually something stupid on my part. The cam window wheels have AR, AL, ER, and EL stamped on them. I looked up the German translations for intake, exhaust, left, and right, and whatever I found on Google translate told me that R was right, L was left, A was intake, and E was exhaust. I can't seem to replicate those when I tried just now... but it matched up at the time. So that's how I put them on and it turns out that A and E were for "inner" and "outer", so I had them backwards. At least that's what the dealer said when I gave up and took it to them. I had to pay $1,200 for 10 hours of labor and they comp'd the parts. I'm hoping I can get that money back in addition to the parts cost (another $1,050) in this balance shaft settlement. My time to repair probably won't be worth anything unfortunately.
www.BalanceShaftSettlement.com
The no start was actually something stupid on my part. The cam window wheels have AR, AL, ER, and EL stamped on them. I looked up the German translations for intake, exhaust, left, and right, and whatever I found on Google translate told me that R was right, L was left, A was intake, and E was exhaust. I can't seem to replicate those when I tried just now... but it matched up at the time. So that's how I put them on and it turns out that A and E were for "inner" and "outer", so I had them backwards. At least that's what the dealer said when I gave up and took it to them. I had to pay $1,200 for 10 hours of labor and they comp'd the parts. I'm hoping I can get that money back in addition to the parts cost (another $1,050) in this balance shaft settlement. My time to repair probably won't be worth anything unfortunately.
www.BalanceShaftSettlement.com
A = Abgas = Exhaust
E = Einsaug = Intake
How has teh car held up since?
07-30-2017, 11:22 AM
#97
Balance shaft repair
I was able to get ahold of the parts that I need and start tearing into this project.
-Disconnected the battery
-Removed lower engine covers
-Removed top engine cover and air filter assembly
-Drained the coolant
-Removed the top radiator support which required disconnecting hood latches
-Removed electric fan assembly
-Disconnected the upper and lower radiator hoses from the engine
-Disconnected the power steering pump and A/C compressor from the engine but left them plumbed.
-Disconnected a few connectors on the harness that goes to the rear driver's side of the top of the engine. There was also some sort of air line that I disconnected.
-Removed the MAF elbow
-Removed the exhaust at the manifold and at the joint just ahead of the rear axle (and broke all three bolts so those will have to be replaced.)
-Removed the little cover on the bottom of the transmission bell housing and removed 6 torque convertor bolts.
-Removed bell housing bolts, two of which double as starter bolts. Was able to get 4 easily from the top, the rest from the bottom. Before removing the last 4 on the bottom, I supported the bottom of the trans with a floor jack and a piece of 4X4 wood. After removing all of the bolts, I was afraid the engine/trans would want to fall.
That's where I am now. I'm pretty sure the engine is ready to come out the top. There seems to be plenty of room on each side and I have a good 6" in the front. I just hope the flywheel doesn't sit too far into the bell housing and hold it up.
Attachment 377442
Attachment 377443
-Disconnected the battery
-Removed lower engine covers
-Removed top engine cover and air filter assembly
-Drained the coolant
-Removed the top radiator support which required disconnecting hood latches
-Removed electric fan assembly
-Disconnected the upper and lower radiator hoses from the engine
-Disconnected the power steering pump and A/C compressor from the engine but left them plumbed.
-Disconnected a few connectors on the harness that goes to the rear driver's side of the top of the engine. There was also some sort of air line that I disconnected.
-Removed the MAF elbow
-Removed the exhaust at the manifold and at the joint just ahead of the rear axle (and broke all three bolts so those will have to be replaced.)
-Removed the little cover on the bottom of the transmission bell housing and removed 6 torque convertor bolts.
-Removed bell housing bolts, two of which double as starter bolts. Was able to get 4 easily from the top, the rest from the bottom. Before removing the last 4 on the bottom, I supported the bottom of the trans with a floor jack and a piece of 4X4 wood. After removing all of the bolts, I was afraid the engine/trans would want to fall.
That's where I am now. I'm pretty sure the engine is ready to come out the top. There seems to be plenty of room on each side and I have a good 6" in the front. I just hope the flywheel doesn't sit too far into the bell housing and hold it up.
Attachment 377442
Attachment 377443
I pulled the engine and tranny as a unit. Might be a bear to realign otherwise
Removed the tranny after it was out. Sat he engine on my work bench. Also wished I had removed the crank pulley in the car.
The tool he is referring to is for in car removal. It won't work out if the car. It's a stop that rests on the frame, and the engine is bolted down. Out of the car you need a counter lever wrench. I copied mine from a youtube video using 1-1/4" pipe fittings. (1-1/4" x 1-1/4" x 3/4" tee, 1-1/4" close nipple, and a 1-1/4" threaded flange) Drilled and tapped the flange for (2) 1/2" bolts. Used a 5'-0" length of 3/4" pipe in the tee for a lever arm. The 27mm socket will just pass thru the tee. Used my 1/2" breaker bar with the round handle off a floor jack. Yup, that's the kind of force you need if that bolts never been out. Also, be aware, this is a "torque to yield" bolt (plastic deformation) and cannot be reused.
And like you said, paying $6500 to repair a $5000 car is a no brainer.
