Finally fixing my balance shaft!
#1
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2007 C230 and 1985 Monte SS
Finally fixing my balance shaft!
I was able to get ahold of the parts that I need and start tearing into this project.
-Disconnected the battery
-Removed lower engine covers
-Removed top engine cover and air filter assembly
-Drained the coolant
-Removed the top radiator support which required disconnecting hood latches
-Removed electric fan assembly
-Disconnected the upper and lower radiator hoses from the engine
-Disconnected the power steering pump and A/C compressor from the engine but left them plumbed.
-Disconnected a few connectors on the harness that goes to the rear driver's side of the top of the engine. There was also some sort of air line that I disconnected.
-Removed the MAF elbow
-Removed the exhaust at the manifold and at the joint just ahead of the rear axle (and broke all three bolts so those will have to be replaced.)
-Removed the little cover on the bottom of the transmission bell housing and removed 6 torque convertor bolts.
-Removed bell housing bolts, two of which double as starter bolts. Was able to get 4 easily from the top, the rest from the bottom. Before removing the last 4 on the bottom, I supported the bottom of the trans with a floor jack and a piece of 4X4 wood. After removing all of the bolts, I was afraid the engine/trans would want to fall.
That's where I am now. I'm pretty sure the engine is ready to come out the top. There seems to be plenty of room on each side and I have a good 6" in the front. I just hope the flywheel doesn't sit too far into the bell housing and hold it up.
-Disconnected the battery
-Removed lower engine covers
-Removed top engine cover and air filter assembly
-Drained the coolant
-Removed the top radiator support which required disconnecting hood latches
-Removed electric fan assembly
-Disconnected the upper and lower radiator hoses from the engine
-Disconnected the power steering pump and A/C compressor from the engine but left them plumbed.
-Disconnected a few connectors on the harness that goes to the rear driver's side of the top of the engine. There was also some sort of air line that I disconnected.
-Removed the MAF elbow
-Removed the exhaust at the manifold and at the joint just ahead of the rear axle (and broke all three bolts so those will have to be replaced.)
-Removed the little cover on the bottom of the transmission bell housing and removed 6 torque convertor bolts.
-Removed bell housing bolts, two of which double as starter bolts. Was able to get 4 easily from the top, the rest from the bottom. Before removing the last 4 on the bottom, I supported the bottom of the trans with a floor jack and a piece of 4X4 wood. After removing all of the bolts, I was afraid the engine/trans would want to fall.
That's where I am now. I'm pretty sure the engine is ready to come out the top. There seems to be plenty of room on each side and I have a good 6" in the front. I just hope the flywheel doesn't sit too far into the bell housing and hold it up.
#3
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2007 C230 and 1985 Monte SS
I don't know what the book charges in hours, but they wanted $6,500 to do the job. I have probably 5-6 hours into it at this point, but that's me taking my time. I do a lot of wrenching and fabricating on older stuff, but this car is actually a lot easier to work on than I thought it would be.
#4
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Good luck, SSM!! You and Hogger have my admiration. I've pulled engines before but not on anything like a Mercedes. I just hope it continues to be easier to work on than you expected!
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2007 C230 and 1985 Monte SS
Thanks! I think the engine should come out pretty easily. Then it comes time to crack it open and start replacing internals... so I hope it continues to go easily too. I have a good friend coming over tonight to help me pull the engine and hopefully we can tear into it too because he's an Audi tech so he knows these new German cars very well.
#6
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Is this the problem with the balance shaft sprocket that MB knows about? They're supposed to cover us if it happens to us.
Keep us informed and Good Luck!
Keep us informed and Good Luck!
#7
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Good luck SSM. Not too difficult if you are methodical due to complexity of the M272 quadcam.
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#8
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2007 C230 and 1985 Monte SS
Thank you! Any tips for removing the crank bolt from the pulley/damper?
#9
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or once the engine is out jury rig something to hold the flex plate/ring gear.
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2005 C Wagon (No snickering please!)
I would suggest a flywheel lock like this one.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-C230-C280-E230-Flywheel-Crankshaft-Pulley-Remove-Install-Locking-Tool-/251300286894?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item3a82aa11ae
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-C230-C280-E230-Flywheel-Crankshaft-Pulley-Remove-Install-Locking-Tool-/251300286894?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item3a82aa11ae
#12
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2019 C300 Wagon; '75 Triumph TR6; previous: 2004 C230 6spd sold after 17 years of driving
I am not sure if I like the way your cars are balanced on top of those wood towers, nothing really to stop the car from rolling off or the towers from tipping, the car is still suspended on its springs so there will always be movement. I will NEVER use ramps again, 3 ton jack stands only on the jacking mount points with a second set as safety at key suspension substructure points.
I speak as a survivor from a car coming off the ramps and landing on me, 28 years ago, it crushed my chest by almost 2 inches and at the last second I turned my head sideways saving a crushed skull and not being around today
Even today I am a bit apprehensive crawling under a car, and can not be too safe
I speak as a survivor from a car coming off the ramps and landing on me, 28 years ago, it crushed my chest by almost 2 inches and at the last second I turned my head sideways saving a crushed skull and not being around today
Even today I am a bit apprehensive crawling under a car, and can not be too safe
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#14
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2007 C230 and 1985 Monte SS
I am not sure if I like the way your cars are balanced on top of those wood towers, nothing really to stop the car from rolling off or the towers from tipping, the car is still suspended on its springs so there will always be movement. I will NEVER use ramps again, 3 ton jack stands only on the jacking mount points with a second set as safety at key suspension substructure points.
I speak as a survivor from a car coming off the ramps and landing on me, 28 years ago, it crushed my chest by almost 2 inches and at the last second I turned my head sideways saving a crushed skull and not being around today
Even today I am a bit apprehensive crawling under a car, and can not be too safe
I speak as a survivor from a car coming off the ramps and landing on me, 28 years ago, it crushed my chest by almost 2 inches and at the last second I turned my head sideways saving a crushed skull and not being around today
Even today I am a bit apprehensive crawling under a car, and can not be too safe
#15
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Boom,
That must have been really scary! I'm not surprised that you're apprehensive about getting under a car! Thankfully, you're still with us!
When I was getting my blocks to put in the jack points for my jack stands, the guy there was insistent that I not use four jack stands. I'd never had a problem with that in the past, but I recognized the potential. I try to be careful - shake the car before I get under it, etc., but you really can't be too careful. It was bad enough when cars had over six inches of ground clearance but it's worse now.
As a departed friend of mine would say, "let's be safe out there!"
That must have been really scary! I'm not surprised that you're apprehensive about getting under a car! Thankfully, you're still with us!
When I was getting my blocks to put in the jack points for my jack stands, the guy there was insistent that I not use four jack stands. I'd never had a problem with that in the past, but I recognized the potential. I try to be careful - shake the car before I get under it, etc., but you really can't be too careful. It was bad enough when cars had over six inches of ground clearance but it's worse now.
As a departed friend of mine would say, "let's be safe out there!"
#17
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I would suggest a flywheel lock like this one.
Mercedes C230 C280 E230 Flywheel Crankshaft Pulley Remove Install Locking Tool | eBay
Mercedes C230 C280 E230 Flywheel Crankshaft Pulley Remove Install Locking Tool | eBay
SSM ~ strongly suggest you replace the CPS while the engine is out. It's so easy. Crap job on the M272 with engine in due to width of heads. Easier on a M112.
#21
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Combo of help from Rudeney on the W209 forum & self.
http://benzbits.com/M272/SetCamshaftPosition.pdf
http://benzbits.com/M272/RemoveTensioner.pdf
M272 Engines
NOTE
An endless timing chain is used on production engines, but a split chain with a connecting link is used for service. The endless chain can be separated with a "chain breaker". Only 1 master link (connecting link) should be used on a chain.
1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Spark plugs
Camshafts on the right cylinder head
3. Clamp the chain to the camshaft gear and cover the opening of the timing chain case.
4. Separate the chain with a chain breaker.
To install:
1. Attach a new timing chain to the old chain with a master link, center plate and end plate. Using a socket wrench on the crankshaft, slowly rotate the engine in the direction of normal rotation. Simultaneously, pull the old chain through until the master link is uppermost on the camshaft sprocket. Be sure to keep tension on the chain throughout this procedure.
2. Disconnect the old timing chain and connect the ends of the new chain with the master link. Insert the new connecting link from the rear so the lockwashers can be seen from the front.
3. Rotate the engine in the direction of rotation until the timing marks align at 55 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC).
4. The markings on the pulse wheels of the intake and exhaust camshafts at the left cylinder head must be located centrally in the bores of the camshaft sensors. If not, rotate the engine another revolution.
5. Rotate the engine in the direction of rotation 95 degrees so that it is at 40 degrees After Top Dead Center (ATDC) of cylinder 1.
6. Install the camshafts on the right cylinder head. The marks should point upwards and match with the markings on the cylinder head covers.
7. Rotate the engine in the direction of rotation until the timing marks align at 55 degrees BTDC again. The markings on the pulse wheels of the intake and exhaust camshafts at the left cylinder head must be located centrally in the bores of the camshaft sensors.
8. Install or connect the following:
Spark plugs
Negative battery cable
9. Start the engine and check operation.
Let us know if you need more help & we will try to provide.
http://benzbits.com/M272/SetCamshaftPosition.pdf
http://benzbits.com/M272/RemoveTensioner.pdf
M272 Engines
NOTE
An endless timing chain is used on production engines, but a split chain with a connecting link is used for service. The endless chain can be separated with a "chain breaker". Only 1 master link (connecting link) should be used on a chain.
1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cable
Spark plugs
Camshafts on the right cylinder head
3. Clamp the chain to the camshaft gear and cover the opening of the timing chain case.
4. Separate the chain with a chain breaker.
To install:
1. Attach a new timing chain to the old chain with a master link, center plate and end plate. Using a socket wrench on the crankshaft, slowly rotate the engine in the direction of normal rotation. Simultaneously, pull the old chain through until the master link is uppermost on the camshaft sprocket. Be sure to keep tension on the chain throughout this procedure.
2. Disconnect the old timing chain and connect the ends of the new chain with the master link. Insert the new connecting link from the rear so the lockwashers can be seen from the front.
3. Rotate the engine in the direction of rotation until the timing marks align at 55 degrees Before Top Dead Center (BTDC).
4. The markings on the pulse wheels of the intake and exhaust camshafts at the left cylinder head must be located centrally in the bores of the camshaft sensors. If not, rotate the engine another revolution.
5. Rotate the engine in the direction of rotation 95 degrees so that it is at 40 degrees After Top Dead Center (ATDC) of cylinder 1.
6. Install the camshafts on the right cylinder head. The marks should point upwards and match with the markings on the cylinder head covers.
7. Rotate the engine in the direction of rotation until the timing marks align at 55 degrees BTDC again. The markings on the pulse wheels of the intake and exhaust camshafts at the left cylinder head must be located centrally in the bores of the camshaft sensors.
8. Install or connect the following:
Spark plugs
Negative battery cable
9. Start the engine and check operation.
Let us know if you need more help & we will try to provide.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 07-20-2013 at 05:31 PM.
#23
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2012 C300 Sport 4MATIC (current) 2006 C280 Elegance 4MATIC (sold)
Apologies if you mentioned it before but what's the mileage on your C230? The engine in my C280 falls in the category of supposedly affected M272 motors but with 104,000kms (65k miles) on the clock the engine still runs silky smooth and never misses a beat.
#24
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2007 C230 and 1985 Monte SS
There is/was no difference in the feel of the car, the only indication is the pair of diagnostic codes. I have 94k miles on mine. I had no problems until 80k miles when the turbine speed sensor failed which must be replaced by Mercedes for a bit over $1,000 U.S.