C230 Sport Coup

Well, it's time for new front C32 rotors and pads.
I have the parts, but I'm anticipating that the rotors, will be pretty well stuck onto the hubs.
Last time I did this I beat the rotors mercilessly with a carpenters hammer...not fun. It was very noisy and I think I beat them for 1 hour straight each after letting the liquid wrench soak in for a while.

This time, I'm thinking the solution is a bigger hammer. Looking at harbor freights site,
I'm wondering which will be more effective,
this "4 lb Engineers Hammer" or, one of these
" 4LB Deal Blow" Hammers.
I like the idea of the deal blow hammer, since it's plastic coated,
and won't chip a piece of metal off the old rotor (wear eye protection no matter what) and maybe not so ear shattering either.

Then there's this "4 lb Drilling Hammer"
Not sure what the different is, and
if all else fails well, there's these
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-lb-s...dle-94061.html

What do you guys think?

Eau_Rouge

In situations like this, I use a 4 pound hammer like in your link. Instead of beating the rotor directly, I use a foot long 2 x 4 and beat that into the rotor...very effective and never had a problem with the rotor chipping. The 2 x 4 on the other hand is a different story...

Also, the last few times I've done my brakes, I've coated the inside of the rotor that contacts with the hub very lightly with anti seize...never had a problem with sticking rotors since.

ncmudbug

Sport Coupe,

I would get the dead blow hammer. It will transfer more of the energy to the rotor than a steel hammer without having to bother with a piece of wood. There are lots of other uses for a dead blow hammer. I wish I had gotten mine a long time ago.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

splinter

120K from your pads?!

Yup, the solution is a BFH. What kind of gearhead doesn’t have a nasty single jack in his tool bins?
And a quick blast from the oxy-acetylene torch wouldn’t hurt. :D

samaritrey

don't forget ear protection is important. I did the bolt trick to get my front rotors off and lost hearing in my right ear for the rest of the day.
and that is good pad life wow

TruTaing

Who on earth gets 120k on front pads? That's crazzzyyyyy.

I just BFH'd my rear rotors... Took a good 15 minutes per side.

This is brilliant.

You can always try putting the car up on stands the night before, then spraying the hubs w/ some brake cleaner to try to loosen up the rotors. THEN BFH it to your heart's content

tommy

I think you have your answer.

Rogue Engineering makes a notched back wheel spacer; too bad you can't do that to a rotor, it would make things so much easier.

C230 Sport Coup

I can't believe it. Pulled the wheels off, and there's still a ton of pad left.
Kept wondering why the sensor wasn't giving me a warning to replace the pads, figured it must have failed somehow (no), well that's because the sensor hasn't even been touched.
One of the pads is pretty thin, but I'm guessing I might be good for another 10K or more at least.
Measured the rotors thickness, and they're at 30mm so that's ok too.
I can't hardly believe it. They do squeal like mad though.
No point in putting the new brakes on a car with 203K miles if it doesn't need it.
I can always sell the rotors and pads if the brakes outlive the car.

Well, I now am the proud owner of a dead blow hammer, and a new bottle of genuine MB brake fluid, along with a new breaker bar (always needed one anyway) that was on sale at Harbor Freight. They're opening stores like mad over here in the bay. I think I've dropped about 60 bucks on misc crap there like flashlights,
magnetic parts holders, tarps, flunnells, work gloves.
I love that place! Granted I still like my craftsmen tools, but if you need something that doesn't need to be super precise, they got it for a good price!

VVF

WOW!

What's your secret for the extra-long pad life? Mind sharing with us?
Do you drive 99% highway or engine brake all the time or what?
Thanks!

C230 Sport Coup

My only secret is that I used Akebono Euro pads and I have C32 brakes which are overkill for the car. I drive it relatively easy these days, but used to drive it very hard to the point of the having the rotors glowing red.
So, I guess it's just quality stuff!

VVF

Ok, Akebono pads sounds like the way to go. Less dust + waay longer life than stock pads.
Although I hope to get at least 40k out of my stock ones... 22k so far, didn't really check the thickness yet...

ncmudbug

Hey Sport Coupe,

It sounds like you're all dressed up with nowhere to go! I should look at my Akebonos to see if I'm getting the same wear you're getting. That's phenomenal!

Well, when you are ready to change them, you'll be ready!!

More luck to you!

kirax2

no need hammer, here are some easy step to remove rotors,

1. jack the car up
2. remove wheels,
3. unbolt rotor
4. release floor jack hydraulic,

the gravity and the weight of the car should do enough force to pop the rotors off

tommy

I really think that's a big part of how you got such a long life out of them. After I changed to the C32 brakes, I am also still on my original pads/rotors, and it's been a very long time for me as well.

Having seen you drive, it's not like you're driving like the little old lady from Pasadena.