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Tool for alignment screw rotor to hub?? Help!

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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 09:46 AM
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91 Lamborghini Diablo, 05 C230 Sedan
Tool for alignment screw rotor to hub?? Help!

Well I've put 90k miles on the last set of OEM rotors and pads on my 05 C230 SS but recentl6 failed inspection due to the front so I got new rotors and pads in the mail yesterday and did all my searching and was under the assumption that a T30 was the appropriate fitting so I went out and bought one and get home and it didn't fit. So I ran back out and got a T27 and T25. Stripped the head of the screw and now will need a screw extractor to get it out and get new screws.
Not sure if the info I found in my searching was outdated or if the dealer switched to a different screw when it was out last but can anyone confirm what it should be? Is there a flathead M8x12 mm screw with an Allen head or something that I can replace with? Thanks
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 11:22 AM
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
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Dealer just confirmed a T30 is the right fitting. Very weird that it didn't work for me. Going to swing by a pick up some new screws from them and bring my T30 just to be sure. Hopefully the extraction goes smoothly
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 10:02 PM
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Been there. Done that. I tried an EZ out and broke it in the screw. I had to use a Dremel tool with a chain saw sharpening stone bit (I think that's what they were. They are long cylindrical stones about 1/4" - 3/8" in diameter.) to grind out the EZ out and then it came out. Try heat, try grinding a slot in the head and using a big flat blade screwdriver, try penetrating oil. Something will eventually work. I didn't feel comfortable using a hand impact driver as I didn't want to take the chance of hurting the bearings.

I just check a spare I had and the size is T-30.

Good luck!
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 08:48 AM
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Well wouldn't you know it, I went in to the dealer to get more screws and told them about the mishap and brought what I thought was the T30. Turns out I bought a TS30.
I went at those screws with some Kobalt screw extractors and got in some but it doesn't seem to want to go in anymore.
I don't have anything to cut a slot so I'm going to run by Lowes and see if there are any other drill bits I can try. Taking off work early today to try to knock it out so hopefully my luck is better today!
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 08:54 AM
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A drill bit should work - be careful to get the size that will not cut the threads. I had to use the grinder because I had to grind out the EZ out.
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 11:06 AM
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I hope a drill bit will. I am a little concerned that it won't since the dlscrew extractor didn't get all the way. Not even sure what that screw is made out of. Inspection is rejected u til I can get these on so hopefully today. Always a pain in the *** when you try to save money for the $750 the dealer wanted when I picked up the parts for $199 but am now spending additional $ to fix my T30 error haha.
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 11:40 AM
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As long as the screw extractor didn't break in the screw, the drill should work. What will happen is that you'll drill enough of it out that it will pretty much come out as you do it - of if not, it should be pretty easy to get something to grab the rest of the screw (think wedge, or something similar).
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 12:01 PM
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Thanks man. I will hopefully post back with positive results this afternoon! First time ever messing with brakes.
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 04:51 PM
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I picked up a titanium drill bit. Wasn't sure whether to go with cobalt or titanium but got home and was able to drill right through. But then I freaked out a little cause I though I went through the hub threads. But then I remembered that they are just alignment screws and oddly enough the both screwed right in. One of the easiest jobs I've done. About 2 hours taking my time since it was the first. Even with the mishaps still easily worth the money saved. Spent $250 overall including bits, torx, pads, rotors, anti seize paste, new screws, etc. Dealership wanted $750.

Thanks for the help!
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Viper55
I picked up a titanium drill bit. Wasn't sure whether to go with cobalt or titanium but got home and was able to drill right through. But then I freaked out a little cause I though I went through the hub threads. But then I remembered that they are just alignment screws and oddly enough the both screwed right in. One of the easiest jobs I've done. About 2 hours taking my time since it was the first. Even with the mishaps still easily worth the money saved. Spent $250 overall including bits, torx, pads, rotors, anti seize paste, new screws, etc. Dealership wanted $750.

Thanks for the help!
damn 750 lol its ironic that i read this last night because i attempted to change my rotors today and realized the idiot who did them last didnt put the screw back in my front ones so the only thing holding them on is the caliper and wheel lol so i didnt touch it and im going to get new screws all around. do you recall how much the dealer charges for the t30 screw?
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Viper55
I picked up a titanium drill bit. Wasn't sure whether to go with cobalt or titanium but got home and was able to drill right through. But then I freaked out a little cause I though I went through the hub threads. But then I remembered that they are just alignment screws and oddly enough the both screwed right in. One of the easiest jobs I've done. About 2 hours taking my time since it was the first. Even with the mishaps still easily worth the money saved. Spent $250 overall including bits, torx, pads, rotors, anti seize paste, new screws, etc. Dealership wanted $750.

Thanks for the help!
Glad it worked out for you. You spent a lot less time on yours that I did on the one I had. I think if it happens again, I'll just go straight for the drill and not bother with the EZ out.
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 09:31 PM
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The alignment screw helps but you can do without them. I did not tighten them that much and they had some anti seize on them I think but I'm not planning on keeping the car long enough for another brake change haha.. I actually got them free because my buddy works there so I'm not sure what they normally charge. I think the website autohauz has them for $1.xx as of the other day. One of the rotors came right off as soon as the alignment screw was out but the other took some prying with a crowbar. The YouTube video on the 06 or 07 C230 SS was a good learning tool. Already drove the car and no issues.
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 09:37 PM
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Agreed. The are certainly not necessary. I think the only reason MB uses them beyond German obsessiveness is that there are no wheel studs.
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 01:42 AM
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Put a finger of lanolin or antiseize on the threads and the neck of the screw and you'll not have a hard time taking it off next time.
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