Camshaft adjuster problem
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2002 c230k coupe 2.3l
Camshaft adjuster problem
Hi guys,
I have c230 2002 coupe(2.3 L compressor) and a problem with a camshaft adjuster. Every time when the adjuster switchings from one regime to the other I hear some rattle for about half of a second (I posted a video with this problem recently. But unfortunately did not get any response https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post5729217 ) Yesterday I opened a part of the engine to take a look.
The thing that I found strange in the camshaft adjuster (the part of camshaft that I was able to disassemble without removing chain) is that I could easily sway it by my fingers (when nut (56) is installed). That is there is some backlash.
So I decided to tighten a nut (56) (see drawing below). But if I tighten it enough to stop wobbling the sprocket it somehow wedges a pin which is governed by solenoid. Maybe the problem is that there is no lock ring (41) under the nut. According to the drawing it is supposed to be there but I could not find it. Maybe somebody took it away when fixed the engine before me or it is not supposed to be installed there.(Instead it is either somewhere inside the adjuster or I just do not understand this drawing correctly ????
)
I found that the nut (56) must be tightened with 65N*m. I just cannot apply this amount of torque to this nut otherwise I locked the solenoid pin and disable all adjusting mechanism. If you know how to deal with this please write I lack of ideas now. Thanks.
I have c230 2002 coupe(2.3 L compressor) and a problem with a camshaft adjuster. Every time when the adjuster switchings from one regime to the other I hear some rattle for about half of a second (I posted a video with this problem recently. But unfortunately did not get any response https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post5729217 ) Yesterday I opened a part of the engine to take a look.
The thing that I found strange in the camshaft adjuster (the part of camshaft that I was able to disassemble without removing chain) is that I could easily sway it by my fingers (when nut (56) is installed). That is there is some backlash.
So I decided to tighten a nut (56) (see drawing below). But if I tighten it enough to stop wobbling the sprocket it somehow wedges a pin which is governed by solenoid. Maybe the problem is that there is no lock ring (41) under the nut. According to the drawing it is supposed to be there but I could not find it. Maybe somebody took it away when fixed the engine before me or it is not supposed to be installed there.(Instead it is either somewhere inside the adjuster or I just do not understand this drawing correctly ????
) I found that the nut (56) must be tightened with 65N*m. I just cannot apply this amount of torque to this nut otherwise I locked the solenoid pin and disable all adjusting mechanism. If you know how to deal with this please write I lack of ideas now. Thanks.
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
If 41 is missing someone has fiddled with this previously. It must be there.
Benz has a deburring procedure for the M111 on/off type cam adjustor if it rattles (usually on startup in unison with the chain) which never works in practice. I had one fail in the first 5000Km on a new W202. Replacement of the adjuster unit complete is usually required to shut them up.
I guess you can try just replacing 41. The adjuster assembly is quite costly. Fortunately mine was a warranty issue.
Benz has a deburring procedure for the M111 on/off type cam adjustor if it rattles (usually on startup in unison with the chain) which never works in practice. I had one fail in the first 5000Km on a new W202. Replacement of the adjuster unit complete is usually required to shut them up.
I guess you can try just replacing 41. The adjuster assembly is quite costly. Fortunately mine was a warranty issue.
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Joined: Jul 2013
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2002 c230k coupe 2.3l
Thanks for reply Glyn. yep.... I've read about this debugging procedure.... I think the only option left for me is a total replacement of it. The problem is $650 for new part is a way to expensive. What do you think about installing used adjuster?
Yesterday I found a very good post in the Internet. It is older SLK but engine is almost the same. http://www.kokes.net/slk/Engine_head...ead_remove.htm
This is a photo of disassembled adjuster.Few interesting observations.... First, According to this photo lock ring(41) is not supposed to be installed there. Second, I understand the operational principle of this part but I can not understand what can be possibly wrong there to create this irritating noise every time at 2000 RPM. And Lastly, I do not understand how tightened nut can wedge the valve pin. Maybe the problem is in this nut? Mine is machined with some kind thin cross grooves from both sides. I assumed it is for damping vibration. But on the picture above I do not see these grooves.
Yesterday I found a very good post in the Internet. It is older SLK but engine is almost the same. http://www.kokes.net/slk/Engine_head...ead_remove.htm
This is a photo of disassembled adjuster.Few interesting observations.... First, According to this photo lock ring(41) is not supposed to be installed there. Second, I understand the operational principle of this part but I can not understand what can be possibly wrong there to create this irritating noise every time at 2000 RPM. And Lastly, I do not understand how tightened nut can wedge the valve pin. Maybe the problem is in this nut? Mine is machined with some kind thin cross grooves from both sides. I assumed it is for damping vibration. But on the picture above I do not see these grooves.
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2000 SLK 230 Kompressor
Thanks for reply Glyn. yep.... I've read about this debugging procedure.... I think the only option left for me is a total replacement of it. The problem is $650 for new part is a way to expensive. What do you think about installing used adjuster?
Yesterday I found a very good post in the Internet. It is older SLK but engine is almost the same. http://www.kokes.net/slk/Engine_head...ead_remove.htm
This is a photo of disassembled adjuster.Few interesting observations.... First, According to this photo lock ring(41) is not supposed to be installed there. Second, I understand the operational principle of this part but I can not understand what can be possibly wrong there to create this irritating noise every time at 2000 RPM. And Lastly, I do not understand how tightened nut can wedge the valve pin. Maybe the problem is in this nut? Mine is machined with some kind thin cross grooves from both sides. I assumed it is for damping vibration. But on the picture above I do not see these grooves.
Yesterday I found a very good post in the Internet. It is older SLK but engine is almost the same. http://www.kokes.net/slk/Engine_head...ead_remove.htm
This is a photo of disassembled adjuster.Few interesting observations.... First, According to this photo lock ring(41) is not supposed to be installed there. Second, I understand the operational principle of this part but I can not understand what can be possibly wrong there to create this irritating noise every time at 2000 RPM. And Lastly, I do not understand how tightened nut can wedge the valve pin. Maybe the problem is in this nut? Mine is machined with some kind thin cross grooves from both sides. I assumed it is for damping vibration. But on the picture above I do not see these grooves.
Did you ever find a solution for this issue? I have a 2000 SLK 230 Kompressor with exactly the same symptoms.
