I replaced MAF and Im already check the air hoses and still the problem. Now I want to know if there is a way that I can check the vacuums; also what is a TB?? Thank you. for the information.

 

TB = Throttle Body
See DIY here: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...g-your-tb.html

 

I replace AMF and code still show up. I check for leak hoses and everything is fine. Now my question is there is a way that I can check if vacuums are working correctly as the EGR circuit?? Another question what is TB ??? Thank you.

 

Sorry I post my question twice. And thank you for the information.

 

Another A/C Question: Does anyone sell the compressor pulley separate from the compressor?

Just don't have jing now to drop on an entire new compressor and installation (started a new business so that's sucking up all my cash).

Thanks.

 

Oh, and all of you guys rock, thanks again for so much help, sincerely, Mark

 

From what I heard/read, you have to buy the whole assembly...

Do you really need the AC in winter?

 

I live in South West Florida, LOL.

Sigh.

 

South Florida = 300% humidity= A/C

 

Dang, every A/C compressor pulley I found so far is for years before or after 2005/2006.

 

Here we go again. As I explained already I replaced MAF and code P0102 still show up. I just clean Throttle Body and car run so much smooth than before I can see the difference immediately. I checked the breather hoses but everyting looks good and I could not see any leak but any way I will replaced them next weekend. Also, I will replace fuil filter. Any advide ???? Thank you.

 

Here is a pics what OBM II show.

 

OK, I think I may have found just a replacement pulley for the compressor.

Has anyone else found one of these? I need to know if it's actually for my 2005 C230 before I pull the trigger and I am just not sure I trust someone when they're trying to sell me something.

 

Pepesalvamb, you need to provide more information than what you're giving us here. You also need to answer the questions that the people who are trying to help you are asking. repeating yourself over and over doesn't help anyone so HERE WE GO:

You say you replaced the MAF... that's great! Someone asked you if you replaced it with an OEM part or what and YOU DIDN'T ANSWER! So could you answer that question?

Second of all, has your car had the $12 hose campaign (MB language for RECALL) performed?

How many miles does your car have? Please provide as much backround information as you can.

You can try disconnecting the plug that goes to the MAF and force the car to run without it and see if it runs better.

Have you tried clearing the code after replacing the MAF or are you just waiting to see if it clears on its own?

Almost all of your monitors are incomplete... have you tried clearing the code and driving the car for a few hundred miles or did you just replace the MAF, clear the code, and turn the car on without driving it a while?

As I said above... the more we know, the better we can help... Good luck!

 

markinnaples, I would try to find an actual compressor and have a look at its pulley. Is it possible to take it off and replace? How does it look? Then make a decision.
I have a feeling you won't be able to replace the pulley without removing the compressor off the car though...

 

Pepe, What is that Pending code you have? Is that the P0102?

 

Turbonos7 thank you for your advice. MAF was replaced with an OEM parts. I called to the dealer in order to check for the $12 hose campaign and they told me that there were no recalls for the $12 hoses for my car (Dealer run my vin#). My car is a 2005 C230 Kompressor and it has 133 miles. I disconected the MAF and I run the car for about 15 min but car run so rough. Then, I conected the MAF and conect my OBM II in order to clean the code and run the car and it run much better but after 10 min Check Engine come came back agian, I connected OBM II and show P0102 code. At this moment I order the $12 breath hoses and I will replace fuil filter during the weekend. Thank you for your help.

 

When I had my codes cleared, my car ran great but then after a few miles started to run back the way it was before. I replaced the MAF, but haven't had a chance to try it without the wire connected. I had the $12 hose fix, but the dealer didn't attach the bottom hose clamp so I went in and fixed it myself later, but it still runs rough and the idle fluctuates.

 

Ok, now we got something. So, your car has had the recall done and it also runs better WITH the MAF than without which rules out a bad MAF plus that would be two MAFs back to back that are bad which can happen but is also highly unlikely especially with both of them being OEM parts.

So, next order of business. You said you cleaned the TB right? Are you sure that there are no leaks there? That coupler could be tricky sometimes so make sure that the plastic elbow is properly seated onto the TB.

There is obviously a leak somewhere which is causing the air to bypass your MAF (higher resistance to flow through) and enter your engine through the leak (lower resistance to flow) which in turn is causing low air flow to register at your MAF and therefore the ECU to produce the code.

The next thing to do would be to check (visually) for tears, hoses out of place, holes, or just plain missing pieces like check valves on hoses. After doing this and checking the coupler on the TB, I would proceed to get a can of starting fluid or carb cleaner and shoot some of it in the hard-to-reach areas around the engine were the vacuum hoses are and where it is hard to visually inspect. Do this with the engine running at idle. The theory here is that if you spray this stuff near the spot where the leak is it will get sucked into the engine and you will hear the engine's idle fluctuate. This will help you figure out where the leak is.

Also, you can try to listen for a whistling noise, or a constant air hiss which would be where your leak is.

Also another good rule of thumb is to step back (and out of the box) and try to think what was the last thing that was done on the car? Last system/maintenance that either you or someone else worked on/performed. Maybe something came loose.

Fault codes sometimes tend to make us have a sort of "tunnel vision" about the problem when in reality it is just the only way the car can "tell" us something is wrong without actually speaking. In this case there is something wrong with the amount of air flow going through the MAF FOR THE GIVEN ENGINE SPEED. Meaning, the car's computer knows how much oxygen and consequently how much air (at any temperature) SHOULD be going into the engine at any speed and what it is "seeing" is that somehow the engine is running but the amount of air coming in THROUGH the MAF is not enough to make that happen, which tells us that the rest of the air is coming in somewhere else (ergo... we have a leak) OR that the MAF is bad BUT we have ruled that out for the moment. Now it is up to us humans (and reasoning) to figure it out. Good luck!

 

Thanks tubonos7 for your help. Both MAFs are OEM parts. I check for leaks just visually but now I will try to check for leaks with a can of starting fluid or carb cleaner in places that its hard to see (I didn't know that I can check that way Thank you for your advice). My problem began two months ago; check engine light show up some times and sometimes not. I took my car to a mechanic who works just in mbw and Mercedes. He told me that my problem was the MAF according to him and he replaced it and clear the Check Engine Light (he charge my $750 for this job including parts) after I couple day check engine came back. I took the car back to the mechanic and he told me that probably the problem can be the ECU. I didn't believe him and that's when I decide to fix the car by my own and got the OBDII. Next weekend I will check leaks with a can of starting fluid or carb cleaner. Now I have a question: how can I check if the air valve its working or not?? Thank you for your help.

 

Any updates?

 

I'll give an update on mine: Having the dealer fix the A/C comp this week, and will change out the alternator next week myself.

Pulled the connection to the MAF, and it ran erratically the same or worse than when connected, so that means the issue with the terribly uneven idle isn't the MAF, correct?

 

UGH. Dealer replaced the a/c compressor but said that they have to bypass the MAF to make it work as the MAF is sending a signal not to engage the a/c compressor. Another $700+ to replace the MAF. WTH man?

 

Sounds like BS... MAF shouldn't have anything to do with AC.
Maybe he meant the climate control panel in dash...

 

The dealer gave me a written quote regarding the MAF. This is whacked. I am going to disconnect the MAF this week and see whether the A/C kicks on.