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Replace Timing Chain at 80K miles if...

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Old 11-24-2013, 07:52 PM
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Replace Timing Chain at 80K miles if...

I'm already doing an upper, front valve cover gasket leak repair on a 2005 C230? Bear in mind, it's not currently making the infamous grind sound on start up.

I hear you take off the valve cover to get to the timing chain, so how much time will I save if I do them simulataneously? I hear doing the spark plugs simultaneously with the new valve cover gaskets is the way to go, but I haven't heard about throwing in the timing chain.

Should I instead just check to see if the chains sagging and if not just wait till I hear the 2 second grind at start up and then deal with it? Thoughts?
Old 11-25-2013, 09:49 AM
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If I was opening the top of the engine at 80K miles I would pull a new chain while I was about it. Chains are cheap & it gives you piece of mind going forward. Do you intend keeping the car?
Old 11-25-2013, 01:21 PM
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Definitely keeping the car! I just don't wanna f with installing a new tensioner and rails or whatever they're called. If the chain's in tact, is it necessary to replace the tensioner and rails or just the chain? Cuz if it's as easy clipping and putting in a $50 chain I'll do it.
Old 11-25-2013, 03:22 PM
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late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Just the chain & a use once tensioner capsule. No need to change anything else. Method in the Wiki.
Old 11-25-2013, 07:53 PM
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Thx, Glyn. I ordered the valve cover gasket set and timing cover gasket upper and front (only b/c the mechanic who pre-sale inspected it had listed this part- I have NO idea where the timing cover gasket goes!) I also ordered sealent and hoses in case the valve gasket Breather gasket is leaking... won't know till I look.

I'm going to check the chain, but if it's tight, I'm gonna hold off on changing the chain/tensioner until I do the B service in 12K miles, unless of course I hear the rattling/scraping 2 second start up sound.

Question: Is there a tool i can use to measure the tension in the chain to know it's still good?

Question: Would putting WD40 on the old timing chain help/hurt/not do ****?

Question: If I wait and end up popping off the valve gasket cover again in 12K miles, I won't need to replace the valve gasket seals again right? Hogger asked this question, but no one ever answered it.

Lastly, the previous owner said he changed the spark plugs recently, is there a way to know when I'm looking at the spark plugs whether or they actually are new or if the owner was lying?

ps. this forum is awesome! I'm doing engine work when only last week I had the mechanical knowledge of a fruit fly. hahaha

Last edited by scottonfire; 11-25-2013 at 07:57 PM.
Old 11-25-2013, 10:54 PM
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Get the chain done asap not something to put off. I would take out the 4 spark plugs and check the gap and see what they look like. If you don't trust the guy fully just change them out you only have 4 unlike the m112 engine that has 12 so the expense and time spent won't be bad at all.
Old 11-26-2013, 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by scottonfire
Thx, Glyn. I ordered the valve cover gasket set and timing cover gasket upper and front (only b/c the mechanic who pre-sale inspected it had listed this part- I have NO idea where the timing cover gasket goes!) I also ordered sealent and hoses in case the valve gasket Breather gasket is leaking... won't know till I look.

I'm going to check the chain, but if it's tight, I'm gonna hold off on changing the chain/tensioner until I do the B service in 12K miles, unless of course I hear the rattling/scraping 2 second start up sound.

Question: Is there a tool i can use to measure the tension in the chain to know it's still good?

No ~ the chain is only under full tension with full oil pressure

Question: Would putting WD40 on the old timing chain help/hurt/not do ****?

Don't mix WD40 with engine oil. Won't achieve anything.

Question: If I wait and end up popping off the valve gasket cover again in 12K miles, I won't need to replace the valve gasket seals again right? Hogger asked this question, but no one ever answered it.

Cambox removal should be OK after only 12K miles without new gaskets ~ can't guarantee though.

Lastly, the previous owner said he changed the spark plugs recently, is there a way to know when I'm looking at the spark plugs whether or they actually are new or if the owner was lying?

If the plugs are old they should have noticeable electrode wear & gap wider than spec.

ps. this forum is awesome! I'm doing engine work when only last week I had the mechanical knowledge of a fruit fly. hahaha
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Old 11-27-2013, 02:53 AM
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Thx for all your input guys.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I just don't think replacing the timing chain and tensioner is a simple DIY.

When I read stuff like, "the hard part is rivetting the new master link and getting the cam timing right " or "take out the alternator to get the tensioner on," all I think is that I can turn a non-existent problem into a HUGE problem if I screw it up.

If I'm wrong correct me, but it seems like the owners who had the chain slip time didn't pay attention to or ignored the grinding/grating 2 second noise at start up. So I won't do that, and I'll wait until more like 100K miles or if I hear the sound, whichever comes first.
Old 11-27-2013, 09:13 AM
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For a first time DIY this job can be a bit of a hassle. If you leave it just be vigilant & listen for that cold start rattle. Sometimes you get very little warning between rattle & a chain jump on the cam sprockets.
Old 11-30-2013, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by scottonfire
Thx for all your input guys.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I just don't think replacing the timing chain and tensioner is a simple DIY.

When I read stuff like, "the hard part is rivetting the new master link and getting the cam timing right " or "take out the alternator to get the tensioner on," all I think is that I can turn a non-existent problem into a HUGE problem if I screw it up.

If I'm wrong correct me, but it seems like the owners who had the chain slip time didn't pay attention to or ignored the grinding/grating 2 second noise at start up. So I won't do that, and I'll wait until more like 100K miles or if I hear the sound, whichever comes first.

It may be a "non-existent problem" now, but if you continue to think that way it will be, as you said, "a HUGE problem."
I would say that if those statement worry you, this probably isn't a job for you. Take it to your local mech. and have it repaired asap.

Sometimes you don't get much, if any warning. And if it's grinding your listening for, your in for trouble, because you won't hear it, unless you have other problems. Take a little advise, we are only trying to help you. Don't keep trying to downplay the preventative measures that will save you big time in the future.
So good luck! Keep waiting, listening, and talking yourself out of it. I hope your pockets are deep.

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