Transmission Speed Sensor?
I have a 2007 C230 Sport. Twice over the last month I have had an occurrence where the transmission seems to disengage for a few seconds. Both occurrences were while at speed, not at a traffice light/stop sign. The RPM momentarily increased like the transmission had been placed into neutral. Both times after just a few seconds the issue corrected itself and the car has continued on with no issue.
I have done a bit of research on this site and others and the problem sounds a bit like the speed sensor issue. However, I have not found any referrences to the problem being a momentary issue but instead folks had to pull over and turn the car off then restart for things to reset.
What are your thoughts, does this sound like a speed sensor problem? If it is the speed sensor, is it possible that the problem will correct itself or will it get worse with more and more frequent occurrences? I bought the car as a CPO in July 2010 with 29,000 miles. Currently it has about 55,000 miles. If this is the speed sensor, what is the likelihood of getting goodwill assistance in getting it repaired? The fall/winter after purchasing the car I noticed condensation in the PS headlight and the dealer, TriStar Mercedes in Ellisville, MO, did a goodwill replacement of the headlight assembly.
Your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

The so called speed sensor issue is in fact a problem with the conductor plate. Read codes & post.
I am not gettin a notification of the fluid being low. To my knowledge, there is no dipstick to check fluid level. Is their some other way of checking?
I have not taken the car in to be checked out and, frankly, am not sure when I will be able to. The nearest dealership is 30 minutes away from home and I work 45 minutes in the opposite direction. And the service department isn't open on Saturday. the dealership I bought the car from is 2 hours from home.
I'm a pretty good DIYer with pretty good mechanic ability. I tend to do a lot of maintenance myself: brakes, oil (when I don't have coupon from MB), engine work that doesn't require major disassembly (although I have rebuilt small block Ford from the block up). So....if their is something I can check to help diagnose I can likely do it myself.
Last edited by pcy; Jan 23, 2014 at 01:31 PM.
If you have 722.9, then it gets difficult... Refill will need to be done via drain plug+adapter,
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EDIT ~ Do not open the transmission drain while hot. Any speed sensor value implausible etc. will store a code.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Jan 23, 2014 at 06:01 PM.
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First of all, the problem pretty much cleared up through the spring and into summer. When I had the car in for regular service un July I had the trans fluid level checked, it was good, and the codes checked, there were none.
Then a few weeks ago I had the same problem several times over a week or so. One time when on the highway with the cruise set it disengaged the cruise. As the problem occurred several times within a short period I observed a little closer, the other times if sort of caught me off guard and corrected itself quickly. It really didn't feel like a slip, it was more of a hesitation or stumble. The engine RPM didn't really change, maybe dropped slightly.
Armed with new information I went back and did a search for others with the same symptoms. I found a few postings from various sights from people having a very similar problem. The common diagnosis was that the Position Sensor in the accelerator pedal was momentarily malfunctioning. This made sense with my more recent observations as the engine just felt unresponsive when the problem was occurring.
Long story short, I replaced the Accelerator Pedal assembly last weekend and so far so good. I will report back in a few weeks to update if the problems still seems to be resolved.
Again, sorry for the long absence.
The first, Mercedes Benz of Marion, which is the closest at 35 miles away, gave me 4 quotes, diagnostics and reflashing the transmission - $115, Replacing the Conductor Plate - $1900, Replacing the Valve body - $2600, Replacing the Transmission - $6000. Wouldn't know what is needed until they are able to look at the car.
The second, Mercedes Benz of St. Louis, about 100 miles away and the dealership we bought the car from said they typically don't replace the just the Conductor Plate but instead do the whole Valve Body. They said they have done just the Conductor Plate in the past and a high percentage of the time the car has came back with problems and they have ended up replacing the valve body as well. They quoted $1650 to replace the Valve Body. I asked him about reflashing and he was skeptical that would resolve the issue. He said the car went 60,000 miles with no issues and doesn't see how reflashing would resolve the problem.
The last shop was Plaza Mercedes in St. Louis. They quoted $1400 + tax to replace just the conductor plate. He left a message on my voice mail and didn't offer any additional input.
At this point I am leaning toward MB of STL and getting the entire valve body replaced.
Any thoughts from the good people of MBWorld?
I also contacted MBUSA last week to ask if they would assist with the repair. They said they would be in contact with the dealership and would get back with me. I'm waiting on a return call.
I've never been impressed with Mercedes-Benz of St. Louis. They are formerly TriStar Motors and every single time I call and want to talk to the service department no one is available. I leave messages and they don't call back. When I have gotten them on the phone they aren't helpful and give me very generic quotes (well it'll be about $XXX) where Plaza will tell me exactly how much down to the penny for the parts and labor.
If I buy another MB, and that is a very big if, I will check into Plaza. If I can avoid the dreaded balance shaft failure I think I should be good to go.





