ildd

I have 3 different examples I'm about to post regarding scratches. I have attempted to fix these myself, but could not. I would greatly appreciate any help I can get. I just want these gone...


Example 1- This is a small part of the trunk, which is 2 of my most concerning scratches. Roughly 1/2 inch inch long, but very visible and easily feel-able with fingernail. I haven't tried anything with this because I'm scared that it is too deep. 20140214_150106.jpg Can I just use a clear coat touchup pen?


Example 2- This is a large portion of the trunk. Well, basically the entire trunk looks like this. It's pretty noticeable when you're close and only light is directly on it... you can feel each scratch, but they are not deep, unlike the above. These have collected more and more throughout the past year, and I would assume it's dirt going over the car while driving and landing on the trunk, because they usually run vertically.
20140214_145549.jpg How would I go about fixing a large area?


Example 3- This is on the right side of the hood, and started as me trying to fix a thin scratch with 2000-grit wet sandpaper. It didn't go as planned...you can't really feel it, and it isn't deep. it's simply rubbed off clear coat. I tried waxing it back on, but didn't change a thing. It's just weird to look at because it's noticeably duller than the rest of the car, and... well, it's gross. 20140214_145610.jpg


Tips?


edit- Oh, and how can I go about removing things like these? Rock chips all over the hood... 20140214_145853.jpg

Alswag

For a few of these (pictures 2, 3, 4, 5?) you can buff out yourself.
Tools:
- 800, 1000, 2000 grit sandpaper
- Rubbing compound
- Polish
- Spray wax / regular wax
- Spray bottle + water
- 4 microfiber towels

1. Wet sand the spots with 800 grit. Don't use too much pressure, and don't do it too long.
2. Move to 1000 grit sandpaper, then move to 2000 grit sandpaper. The part where you sanded should look cloudy.
3. Clean the area off with one of your microfiber towels and your spray bottle.
4. Apply a little bit of rubbing compound to a microfiber cloth (about a dime), and apply it to the surface. Rub in circular motions only. Don't push too hard.
5. After you used the rubbing compound, buff the surface with another microfiber towel. You should still see some small, microscopic scratches. This is where the polish comes in.
6. Use polish on another microfiber towel, and apply it. Same rules as rubbing compound.
7. Buff off the polish.
8. Re-apply wax or spray wax to the surface, as the paint is now unprotected.

This job isn't for the faint of heart. Trust me, I did this on my car last summer. What you're essentially doing is removing a small portion of the clear coat (the portion that's scratched), so you have to be very careful to not eat through the clear coat completely. Sanding basically shortens the amount of time it will take to use straight rubbing compound and polish. Rubbing compound is abrasive and is almost like liquid sandpaper. Polish is the same, however polish is not nearly as abrasive. Luckily these cars have a decently thick clear coat on them, but this doesn't mean you shouldn't be careful.

Glyn M Ruck

Some of those look as though they would polish out with Maguiar's Scratch X.

With heavier scratches follow the good advice by Alswag.

2002 cars missed the ceramiclear so the job will be easier. I prefer mechanical buffing but be very careful not to overheat the paint.

ildd

Thanks for the advice. I just washed my car today, so it is preferred to have the car dry when doing the above, correct?
I plan on doing this tomorrow... I'll need to get some supplies. I'll post here how the results go.

Glyn M Ruck

Yes ~ dry & spotlessly clean. Obviously use water with the fine grit waterpaper.

ncmudbug

For rock chips, you can use Dr. Color Chip (http://www.drcolorchip.com/). However, I have found that the metallic paints are difficult to repair with it (I have tried in on my Diamond Black Metallic car). There are others and maybe they might be better for silver.

ildd

I think i'll have to wait until Sunday to do this due to some plans, but looking at O'Reillys website(they usually have everything compared to other stores nearby), I've found everything that I need except polish. Can someone point me in the right direction?

ildd

Ok guys... I've been trying this for about 45 minutes. I've done what alswag posted but there is still a big cloud of Haze. I've applied spray wax multiple times and it won't go away... I'm 100% sure I did not eat through the clear coat.

Edit- I applied a little more wax and let it dry out. The scratches are better, but most of the deeper ones are still there (trunk). The Haze got a lot better since when I posted (before this edit), but I'd still there. Invisible to everyone except the owner, like always. How can I Completely get rid of this Haze?

Edit 2- applied more wax. Virtually gone. Trunk looks 10x better except for the couple in picture 2. Even got the hood fixed up. Thank you, alswag and Glyn.

Alswag

For future reference, you're supposed to use the rubbing compound on top of the sanded area until the haze is mostly gone, then finish with the polish to get rid of the rest of the scratches. THEN wax it.

ildd

Oh, ok. Oh well, it looks a lot better now... now I just have to see how well it holds up. Thanks again for your advice.

kanadian

I polish cars for a living I wouldnt recommend sanding with anything less than 1200 grit

ildd

I used 1500 and 2000 grit. I thought 800 grit was too coarse so I didn't pick any up, and I already had 1500.