hi guys,

got new set of tires installed (DZ101) for my ride 235/40/18 front 265/35/18 rear. but just can't get the alignment right even after getting it done by two different wheel centers. is it the tires or what coz i got new lower arms bushing stab links already. the car pulls to the right if i let go of the steering but if i keep it straight it pulls to the right. computer shows green and just about zero but no luck at all. can anyone tell me what i need to check pls. thanks al ot MB folks

 

Did you take it to an MB dealer for the alignment? They will know the right way to adjust toe, caster, and camber. And in the right sequence. Also, have you had the new camber(I think) bolts installed?
I took mine to MB after doing my control arm bushings, and tie rods. The alignment was less than $100.

 

I agree take it to MB. Did the place you took it to "load" the car and bring it down to road ride height when aligned...See above on other comments.

Could it also be that you PLUS Sized your wheels and increased your width or contact and the car is following the crown of the road more now? Most/All Sport Models and most MB/Euro cars with a tighter suspension are more known for tracking to the crown.

IF these issues have been checked and are NOT the issue, than as above you may need the front lower control arm KITS with the camber adjustments. STF. This will give you about 4 more degrees of adjustment, again, there are torque sequences that must be followed...

Good Luck!

 

I will take a chance at one local mb specialist if not its off to the dealer tnx mb folks

 

What did you get?

If you replaced the lower control arms or lower control arm bushings, did you tighten the bolt at the bushing when the car was resting at normal height? If you tightened while the car was up on jacks then you would be twisting the bushing which could cause issues.

If you replaced stabilizer links, did you get the right length (sport vs non-sport), and make sure they are the same length on both sides? Someone a while ago replaced one with the wrong length and had a hell of a time with his suspension until he corrected it.

Finally, yes, tires seem to make all the difference on pull and road noise. Hopefully your tires just aren't finicky. The front alignment is sensitive enough on these cars with tires adding to the problem.

 

I am in the process of replacing my front suspension. The tie rod ends, Lower control arms just got replaced and now the upper control arm on one side is bad so once I replace both sides I will have a new front suspension. I took the car after the lower control arms were replaced about a month ago to a local chain shop that has done my alignments in the past and they could not get it right this time to save their lives. They did refund my money but after two long visits they refunded my money and gave up even though I told them how to fix it lol Oh well dealer alignments for me from now on!!

 

hi guys after going to two more wheel shops for alignment I got a feedback that the dz101 seems to have a common problem aligning them wheels. pls share your thoughts

 

Just make sure the alignment geometry is correct. Then make sure your front suspension components, especially the bushings, aren't worn. After that you can't do much if the tires are causing driveability problems.

If the DZ101 tires are notorious for making alignment difficult and messing with the cars steering, then I would return them as a safety concern and get something different. I'm kind of doubtful of that though -- why would an auto mfg produce a tire that throws a car's steering out of alignment ... that's a safety hazard and prone to huge liabilities. Probably a stupid question, but did they put both tires on with the tread pointing the same direction?

You still haven't clarified exactly what you replaced in your suspension, and with what mfg parts. If you only replaced the lower control arm bushings, then the upper bushings could be weak and allowing the suspension to "wander". Not likely, but possible.

When you replaced the sway bar links are you certain they were a matching pair, i.e. same length? Sometimes you buy stuff from an online auto parts mfg and you get mix-match parts.

 

I didn't change the upper bushing but the links lower arms and bushing were bought as per Vin rotation is correct as well my question now is are there other folks having the same issue?

 

I've had 2 alignments and they all weren't that great. Take it to a real specialist. Don't mind the extra max 40 bucks. Atleast it'll be done right (hopefully)

 

When I first got my car (used), the previous owner had put in mismatched Hankook tires, that were also close to the wear limit. Switched them out immediately for Continental Extreme Contact DWS tires. Bought the tires online & had the local Mercedes dealer do the mounting/balancing/alignment. They had the equipment listed here http://www.hunter.com/oem/mb/index.cfm

Car drove like new afterwards. A year & a half later, wear is normal/minimal & still drives/rides great.

 

A word on alignment --

I've had two alignments done on my car in it's lifetime. And the car has always pulled to the right ... until I replaced the control arms and did the alignment myself. Now it drives straight.

Caster and camber have limited adjustment on these cars. There are three positions each for each control arm, so for a given side there are nine combinations of upper and lower control arm mounting positions to give you different combinations of caster and camber adjustment. There is a table somewhere that gives you the actual angle deltas in degrees. Aside from those placements, you can try to "push" the bushing to one side or the other of the bolt with whatever little slack is left in there when you tighten it up, but that's going to be only a fraction of a millimeter. So really you have three positions for each control arm with which to try out different caster/camber adjustments.

So, if you've had at least one alignment check and they have given you the caster/camber measurements of your car, from there you should be able to figure out what, if any, fluted bolt position changes are needed.

After that, the only thing you can change is toe-in. On these cars the steering feel seems to be EXTREMELY sensitive to toe-in. I did my toe-in alignments with a tape measure between tread lines on the front vs back of the tires. Yes, that was my leading edge technology. However each of my alignments consisted of 3-4 tie rod adjustments with a drive around the block and down the freeway in between. Doing this iteratively really helped me to understand the differences in feel of minute adjustments in toe-in. (1/6 of a turn on a tie rod made a noticeable difference in how the car felt.) And the iterative process allowed me to center the steering wheel perfectly. I seriously doubt any alignment shop will do this ... they just hook up to the rig, measure the angles, and then adjust until the machine says the angles look correct. In my opinion that is hit or miss.

 

You're right this explanation of yours won't mean anything to the local wheels hop I just came from the seller and he is sending me to their other shop with a newer machine so I'm gonna have to wait till I come from them. Hopefully we can adjust test drive and and just like you said

 

There is only front and rear Toe adjustment OEM!


Reason dealers/alignment shops cannot get it right to accurately resolve steering pull, premature edge tire wear, is that for the front only inaccurate, one position offset "crash bolts" are available for Camber and Caster adjustment.


K-MAC saw the need to "fix it right the first time" with front kits providing twice the adjustment capability and most importantly allowing "precise/fine tuned" adjustment.


These K-MAC patented design bushings at same time replace the four highest wearing, front end bushings. Their 2 axis/self aligning and with twice the load bearing area of OEM and there's no special tools required to fit.


So now for the first time precise/quick (single wrench - on car) full ongoing adjustment - for curb knock damage, altering height, load carrying or fitting wide profile tires. Allowing return to factory specs with improved tire wear, traction, high speed directional control, better steering and braking response.


Same with the K-MAC rear kits - providing precise Camber adjustment capacity and extra Toe to compensate for the new Camber facility.


With below advantages over the alternative rear "upper adjustable link arms with rigid spherical bearing rod ends".


1. The K-MAC patented design moves bottom of the tire inwards to resolve premature inner edge wear/improve traction. While "upper arms" move top of tire outwards reducing important tire to outer fender clearance.


2. K-MAC elastomer bushings for extended life - having proven themselves over the last 18 years. While anyone in the race industry would point out it is not long before rigid rod ends soon pound out allowing metal to metal contact.


What we are offering MB World Members USA/Canada for the month of May is freight cost of $25 FedEx air for one kit or $35 for front and rear kits. FedEx delivery time averages out at 3 days.