throttle body problems...
#1
throttle body problems...
hi guys. its been a while since i posted but i need your help. today my car finally gave out. my car just started idling up and down with no pedal response. i had a friend check the code and they said its the throttle body actuator. but thats all he told me. is there anything else i need to check other than that...? and how much would it cost me to repair this...?
#4
#5
Super Moderator
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 19,942
Likes: 183
From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
There is something wrong with those codes.
Throttle body & TPS codes are 2100 to 2140.
The way the car is behaving tells me it is usually the TB actuator going into oscillation which usually means a new TB. Try cleaning up the TB tracks etc.
Throttle body & TPS codes are 2100 to 2140.
The way the car is behaving tells me it is usually the TB actuator going into oscillation which usually means a new TB. Try cleaning up the TB tracks etc.
#7
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#8
Super Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 651
Likes: 5
From: So. Cal.
'02 C320 Wagon, '78 308 GTS, '06 Highlander Hybrid
#10
I haven't cleaned anything yet... I'm getting it towed to my friends shop... He's thinking that the car just needs to be relearned... Adaption is what he called it...
Could it be that my pedal failed instead?
Could it be that my pedal failed instead?
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,035
Likes: 385
From: A.D., U.A.E
00 C200 & 00 C55 & 06 SLK55
You can also do a sneaky reset:
1) Turn the ignition key to the on (not start) position.
2) Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold for ten seconds.
3) Turn the key to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4) Wait at least two minutes for ECU to reset.
ZAYED,,
1) Turn the ignition key to the on (not start) position.
2) Press the gas pedal to the floor and hold for ten seconds.
3) Turn the key to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4) Wait at least two minutes for ECU to reset.
ZAYED,,
#13
It was the throttle body actuator that gave out... The flap would not open smooth .. It kept locking... We took apart the plastic backing and saw that the teeth on the gears wear worn out with teeth missing...
Last edited by pogijeffrey; 05-28-2014 at 08:24 PM.
#15
Yup... It'l be ready tomorrow... Cost me an arm and a leg though.. And wasn't planning on spending so much for a car that has 190,000 miles. But it's ok... All major components have been replaced already. It should last a few more years after this. And I'll take pictures of the faulty throttle body when I get it back tomorrow...
My mechanic says he never seen anything like this before...
My mechanic says he never seen anything like this before...
Last edited by pogijeffrey; 05-29-2014 at 01:51 PM.
#17
Newbie
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 1
'04 Nissan 350Z 6sp manual, '04 W209 CLK320 5sp Auto, '05 W169 A170 6sp CVT, '69 Triumph SpitfireMK3
Throttle body failing cause
I have been working on my uncles' c180 kompressor for WAY too long now, but finally came to the point where after reworking the entire intake system and vacuum system & replacing the CAT and A/F Lambda sensor there is only 1 code remaing P2001 Throttle body valve PWM (Pulse width modulation).
This is the 2nd used throttle that has been fitted and previously it was the potentiometer values. (3rd time lucky 🤞🏻 )
I figure with the high force of the return spring and the supercharger pressure on the throttle body, not to mention that it has to work/adjust every time with the movement of your foot, the poor part won't last (I think it's too small as well tbh, but then again it wasn't intended for performance 🤔 )
You most certainly need a diagnostic machine to read & clear fault codes in your endeavour...
Good luck 🤞🏻
This is the 2nd used throttle that has been fitted and previously it was the potentiometer values. (3rd time lucky 🤞🏻 )
I figure with the high force of the return spring and the supercharger pressure on the throttle body, not to mention that it has to work/adjust every time with the movement of your foot, the poor part won't last (I think it's too small as well tbh, but then again it wasn't intended for performance 🤔 )
You most certainly need a diagnostic machine to read & clear fault codes in your endeavour...
Good luck 🤞🏻
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