C230 Kompressor M271 Knocking when Cold
07-15-2014, 12:16 PM
#26
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I am running far from him! I knew as soon as he started talking about pulling the whole engine that he was a little clueless. It was the other Indy that right off the bat said, "oh yeah. You can just buy a new chain and loop it through and replace the tensioner, etc." That's what made me feel a lot more confident about him. He had some idea as to what was going on as soon as I told him about a stretching chain.
07-15-2014, 01:55 PM
#27
Super Member
Cintoman
07-15-2014, 02:54 PM
#28
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I've run into my first possible issue. When I reinstall the valve cover, will I not need a new gasket to replace it with? I need to drive my car tomorrow. Would reinstalling the cover without a new gasket cause major leaks even if I only drive it for a couple days?
07-15-2014, 04:21 PM
#29
MBWorld Fanatic!
You are definitely going to need a gasket. Was the old one destroyed when you took the cover off? If not, you can use it again or possibly salvage it with silicon seal.
07-15-2014, 04:30 PM
#30
Junior Member
Thread Starter
As of now, I have all the coil packs off and every thing unplugged. All I have left is to somehow find a way to get the wire harness out of the way to unbolt the cover. I may just go run to the dealer before they close tonight to get a set there since they aren't expensive.
07-15-2014, 04:31 PM
#31
MBWorld Fanatic!
After 11 years it's probably hard as plastic, that is the reason you install a new one there, right? But with the new one you can reuse it within several months' period afaik.
07-15-2014, 04:42 PM
#32
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Is what you offered to sell me only the 1 gasket or was there more? It may be cheaper for me to just buy/order that part at the dealer since you said it would be difficult for you to ship.
07-15-2014, 04:50 PM
#33
MBWorld Fanatic!
There's a valve cover gasket and 4 spark plug hole gaskets (and there might be an oil filler neck gasket - don't remember), they are probably about $15 each at your dealer
Guys, are Victor Reinz gaskets OEM on these cars?
Guys, are Victor Reinz gaskets OEM on these cars?
07-15-2014, 05:03 PM
#34
Super Moderator
It all depends on how the gasket & O rings have hardened. You could always apply a non hardening sealant like Yamabond to tide you over & ensure no leaks until you have a new kit. Do not use products like Permatex as they will leave you with a mess to clean up. Yamabond just peels off.
Do not use Victor Reinz gaskets on these cars. They are thinner than OE & frequently leak. You will find many complaints on the W209 forum about Victor Reinz gaskets & especially their cambox & transmission pan gaskets.
Do not use Victor Reinz gaskets on these cars. They are thinner than OE & frequently leak. You will find many complaints on the W209 forum about Victor Reinz gaskets & especially their cambox & transmission pan gaskets.
07-15-2014, 05:24 PM
#35
Super Moderator
Just to expand on the Victor Reinz gaskets. Their moulded elastomer gaskets such as the cambox are where the real problem lies. If you look at a cross section of the gasket vs. the OE gasket they are too thin to compress properly. How they fouled this up ~ who knows?
07-15-2014, 05:48 PM
#37
MBWorld Fanatic!
You may want to visit http://www.mbpartsworld.com
The gasket is $15, the small ones are 4x$10 over there. This is a dealership in Atlanta, so OEM parts. Even with shipping it should come to less than what you'd pay at the brick-n-mortar dealer
I once paid $14 for the radiator drain plug at the dealer, which was like $6 or 8 shipped elsewhere...
The gasket is $15, the small ones are 4x$10 over there. This is a dealership in Atlanta, so OEM parts. Even with shipping it should come to less than what you'd pay at the brick-n-mortar dealer
I once paid $14 for the radiator drain plug at the dealer, which was like $6 or 8 shipped elsewhere...
07-15-2014, 06:27 PM
#38
Junior Member
Thread Starter
At this point, I'm going to hold everything until I talk to the Indy tomorrow. I want to get his take on all of this before I proceed. I'll probably end up just letting him do the chain, provided his labor costs are within reason. My dad wasn't too crazy about me taking on this project. Basically, as long as I get the IWIS chain as well as the OEM gaskets, I'll be happy. I'll report back tomorrow on what he says.
08-23-2014, 07:28 PM
#40
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Cintoman,
After taking it to the Indy, he drove it (with me in the car) and determined the knocking noise I was hearing was due to worn out motor mounts. Apparently the boots on the hydraulic mounts crack due to age and heat which causes the hydraulic fluid to slowly leak out over time. As the heat from the engine heats up the worn out mounts, it causes them to loosen up and no longer make a knocking noise. This explains why the knocking goes away after driving the car for a while.
As far as the timing chain goes, after listening to the start up sound as heard in many M271 engines, he recommended I only change the tentioner first, because it is much simpler that replacing the chain. I have not yet had any of the following done, but plan to have them completed when I return home from college for Christmas Break. The common start up noise has not gotten any worse and sometimes does not even occur even after sitting overnight.
All that being said, how are things on your end?
After taking it to the Indy, he drove it (with me in the car) and determined the knocking noise I was hearing was due to worn out motor mounts. Apparently the boots on the hydraulic mounts crack due to age and heat which causes the hydraulic fluid to slowly leak out over time. As the heat from the engine heats up the worn out mounts, it causes them to loosen up and no longer make a knocking noise. This explains why the knocking goes away after driving the car for a while.
As far as the timing chain goes, after listening to the start up sound as heard in many M271 engines, he recommended I only change the tentioner first, because it is much simpler that replacing the chain. I have not yet had any of the following done, but plan to have them completed when I return home from college for Christmas Break. The common start up noise has not gotten any worse and sometimes does not even occur even after sitting overnight.
All that being said, how are things on your end?
08-23-2014, 10:53 PM
#41
Super Member
Thanks for the update Alex. First time I heard about the motor mounts causing some issues.
As for mine, it's currently in the shop getting the engine swapped. Found an 84,000 mile engine. My existing one had 99,288 miles on it. I added some pics to my thread about how badly worn the camshaft adjuster sprocket was on the intake side.
Here's the latest on my thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...mp-mode-4.html
All the best.
Cintoman
As for mine, it's currently in the shop getting the engine swapped. Found an 84,000 mile engine. My existing one had 99,288 miles on it. I added some pics to my thread about how badly worn the camshaft adjuster sprocket was on the intake side.
Here's the latest on my thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...mp-mode-4.html
All the best.
Cintoman
01-04-2015, 10:23 PM
#42
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Just a quick update to this thread...
I recently had the motor mounts and transmission mount replaced on my car. Let me tell you, the car runs so much smoother and quieter than before!
No more harsh knocking sound while accelerating when cold or hard vibrations and rumbling when coming to a stop or sitting at a red light! It runs so smoothly while idling, you can't even tell it's running! The mechanic said both motor mounts were completely buried, metal on metal. So glad that issue was finally taken care of
I recently had the motor mounts and transmission mount replaced on my car. Let me tell you, the car runs so much smoother and quieter than before!
No more harsh knocking sound while accelerating when cold or hard vibrations and rumbling when coming to a stop or sitting at a red light! It runs so smoothly while idling, you can't even tell it's running! The mechanic said both motor mounts were completely buried, metal on metal. So glad that issue was finally taken care of
10-24-2020, 12:57 PM
#43
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W203 C200 M271.042 Compressor
Knocking Sound when Cold or under load around Supercharger area
I have a 2003 W203 C230 Kompressor (built in 12/2002) with the M271 engine with 137,000 miles. My issue is not something I think is major, but it does leave me scratching my head sometimes and I just want to be certain it is not an indication of a bigger problem. Just a quick note, I have searched the forums and haven't found anything related to my issue. Upon driving the car after it sits for a long period of time, overnight for example, it has a moderately noticeable knocking sound under acceleration. There is no apparent performance loss and it starts up just fine and idles down as it should from a cold start. I will say this knocking was much more noticeable, louder, and rougher sounding over the winter months when it got well below freezing most nights. That being said, the engine is quite smooth at idle speed, even when it's in gear sitting at a red light. It occasionally shudders slightly if the engine has only being running for a couple minutes and it's not at operating temp (90ēC or so). That's the other thing, this knocking under acceleration still occurs well after the engine totally warms up, again this was more pronounced during the colder months. It only totally goes away after diving it at highway speeds for at least 20-30 mins.
Some recent history of the car (may or may not have anything to do with the issue): about 7,000 miles ago, the whole engine wire harness was replaced by the stealer along with 4 new spark plugs and 2 new oxygen sensors. (Oil had wicked from the leaking cam sensors all the way to the oxygen sensors which caused big problems and a lot of trouble...) Prior to that, the cam sensor "pig tails" and actual sensors were replaced under recall. However, upon recently removing the plugs from the sensors, the connectors are totally saturated with oil. I'm thinking maybe the sensors themselves weren't actually replaced
Anyhow, after getting the new harness on, I am getting excellent gas milage. I can easily get 30 mpg cruising at 80 mph on the highway and typically get around 22-23 mpg in the city (I would consider myself a spirited driver). I have always used 93 octane fuel from the same station (which says is ethanol free) and use a bottle of Techron every few thousand miles and run it hard every now and then as I have heard many people say you should not baby the M271 
. I try not to drive it like a race car all the time though.
So my current thoughts are that it could be the leaky cam sensors sending erroneous data to the ECU that is causing the timing to be slightly off when it's cold. Could this be an early sign that my timing chain is starting to stretch? Also, could the motor mounts cause a knocking noise like that? I think they are original... I'm kinda stumped other than that.
Any thoughts or tips would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Some recent history of the car (may or may not have anything to do with the issue): about 7,000 miles ago, the whole engine wire harness was replaced by the stealer along with 4 new spark plugs and 2 new oxygen sensors. (Oil had wicked from the leaking cam sensors all the way to the oxygen sensors which caused big problems and a lot of trouble...) Prior to that, the cam sensor "pig tails" and actual sensors were replaced under recall. However, upon recently removing the plugs from the sensors, the connectors are totally saturated with oil. I'm thinking maybe the sensors themselves weren't actually replaced
Anyhow, after getting the new harness on, I am getting excellent gas milage. I can easily get 30 mpg cruising at 80 mph on the highway and typically get around 22-23 mpg in the city (I would consider myself a spirited driver
). I have always used 93 octane fuel from the same station (which says is ethanol free) and use a bottle of Techron every few thousand miles and run it hard every now and then as I have heard many people say you should not baby the M271 . I try not to drive it like a race car all the time though.So my current thoughts are that it could be the leaky cam sensors sending erroneous data to the ECU that is causing the timing to be slightly off when it's cold. Could this be an early sign that my timing chain is starting to stretch? Also, could the motor mounts cause a knocking noise like that? I think they are original... I'm kinda stumped other than that.
Any thoughts or tips would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
