Bypassing OEM Bixenons??
#1
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Bypassing OEM Bixenons??
Has anyone done this?
My car has the OEM d2s bixeons. I purchased an aftermarket HID kit to replace the oem kit as the ballasts are shot and the bulbs are old.
Question is where do I tap the 12v source from? theres nowhere inside the assembly that I see...can somebody show me a pic or diagram?
Thanks
My car has the OEM d2s bixeons. I purchased an aftermarket HID kit to replace the oem kit as the ballasts are shot and the bulbs are old.
Question is where do I tap the 12v source from? theres nowhere inside the assembly that I see...can somebody show me a pic or diagram?
Thanks
#2
Super Moderator
Why not just get replacement Ballasts on Ebay and a set of Philips 85122 bulbs on amazon (about $40 each just bought a set for my retrofit) will be much more reliable and way way better bulb quality then any kit and you would most likely have to drill holes in the dust cap to put ballasts on the outside of the light which can cause issues.
To answer your questions the power comes into the light and then goes to where it needs to for the low beam it obviously goes to the ballast on the bottom so you would have to put the light in the oven open it up to get to the wiring that way I would think as you have very little space through the dust caps. That just sounds like a pain doesn't it? I have opened one of the w203 bix and opened my w211 lights twice now it is not fun and if you are not really carful very easy to damage something I just sold my bix for $800 the other day not something you want to mess with imo. If you really do want to use the hid kit I would tap the wiring before it goes to the headlight just before the connector use proper methods and quick release connectors that are water proof to make it easier if you ever have to mess with it in the future. You will have to figure out which wire does what I believe the ground is shared if I am not mistaken.
To answer your questions the power comes into the light and then goes to where it needs to for the low beam it obviously goes to the ballast on the bottom so you would have to put the light in the oven open it up to get to the wiring that way I would think as you have very little space through the dust caps. That just sounds like a pain doesn't it? I have opened one of the w203 bix and opened my w211 lights twice now it is not fun and if you are not really carful very easy to damage something I just sold my bix for $800 the other day not something you want to mess with imo. If you really do want to use the hid kit I would tap the wiring before it goes to the headlight just before the connector use proper methods and quick release connectors that are water proof to make it easier if you ever have to mess with it in the future. You will have to figure out which wire does what I believe the ground is shared if I am not mistaken.
#3
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As per my PM.
The BiX are electronically controlled by the front SAM. You are going to have to use the existing harness to each light & stay with 35 watt if you want no codes ~ or you need to use resistors to fool the system. Not sure of colour of hot wire. Measure it with a meter. Remember this is not hot wired to the switch. The switch sends a signal to the SAM over the Canbus & the SAM reacts by turning on the lights.
Two way comms over a Canbus to a Signal Aquisition & Activation Module (SAM) drastically reduce hard wiring in the modern car & allows diagnostics.
The BiX are electronically controlled by the front SAM. You are going to have to use the existing harness to each light & stay with 35 watt if you want no codes ~ or you need to use resistors to fool the system. Not sure of colour of hot wire. Measure it with a meter. Remember this is not hot wired to the switch. The switch sends a signal to the SAM over the Canbus & the SAM reacts by turning on the lights.
Two way comms over a Canbus to a Signal Aquisition & Activation Module (SAM) drastically reduce hard wiring in the modern car & allows diagnostics.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 07-27-2014 at 07:15 AM.
#4
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Thank you gentlemen. Your help is wonderful. I believe im gonna exchange my current kit and swap them for hid fogs instead. I am gonna chalk up a oem ballast and a new oem ignitor just to be on the safe side.
Thank you again.
Thank you again.
#5
Super Moderator
Actually you can still use halogen bulbs that draw 55 watts with the xenon=present setting with no codes. My w203 is set up that way still even though I took my bix off and sold them and so was my w211 until I did my retrofit.
OP
Glad you decided to go that route the ballast is used on range rovers and a few other cars I found that I bought two different part numbers and they both worked fine for me so IDK if the PN really maters as long as the size and connector is the same. If you need an igniter you can update to the new one if you search on here it goes on the back of the light and is supposedly better and requires very little wiring from the back of the light to wire up and costs about the same.
OP
Glad you decided to go that route the ballast is used on range rovers and a few other cars I found that I bought two different part numbers and they both worked fine for me so IDK if the PN really maters as long as the size and connector is the same. If you need an igniter you can update to the new one if you search on here it goes on the back of the light and is supposedly better and requires very little wiring from the back of the light to wire up and costs about the same.
#6
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Yes Trey ~ some cars' diagnostics are more sensitive to current draw than others. Depends on firmware version & parameters set.