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FYI for anyone looking to do this job, the timing chain PN has been updated.
The newer iwis PN has an improved coating on the bushes but is otherwise physically identical. I received this information directly from the iwis sales rep. Not sure how important the coating is, but one might as well order and install the latest version. Looks like a lot of sites are still selling the old version, even though they list the new MB PN.
Latest PN for the chain (July 2019)
Mercedes: 000-993-21-76
iwis: 50046708
Looking into doing this job again, as the car now has almost 230k on the original chain.
Can someone list the parts required for a M271 engine, as well as the latest MB PNs? Talking about parts only, not the equipment or tools as I'll be bringing everything to my local indie who has the proper MB kit for the job.
Additional questions:
1) Has the bracket that the tensioner screws into been updated? Talking about PN 2710520640 or some variation. I can't tell if I'm supposed to replace this if installing the updated tensioner.
2) There seems to mention of some rubber plug that has to be removed in order to remove the tensioner. Can this plug be reused? If not, what's the PN for it?
3) Is there anything else I need here, or is there some O-ring or other gasket between the tensioner and the engine block?
Last edited by slammer111; 03-06-2021 at 10:33 PM.
There is the issue of MB's new cam chain tensioner. I will quote from the tech bulletin :" this is a stand alone part no other parts need to be added". .... thankyou MB I'm making a fortune out of you for that massive stuff up.
MB has deleted the check valve from the tensioner and put the check valve into the new bracket. I found out about this by accident about 12 months ago after fixing a couple of m271's and was not happy when got the new tensioners and compared them to the old ones that I took out.
SO if you replace the tensioner you MUST replace the bracket at the same time. NO if buts or maybes. .
quick list of parts for the job..... {no part numbers as there is a lot of alternate part numbers out there.
Minimum list is.
FEBI chain 42 link.
2 O-rings for the magnets.
1 O-ring for the behind of thermostat
1 o-ring for the in front of thermostat
2 cam sprocket gears. I would get them from south Africa or Austria. I would not get them from MB!
1 rocker cover gasket kit again I have found that a good pattern part is better quality than MB items.
I connector from the over flow header bottle line to the black rail above the exhaust manifold. Again this is a pattern part because MB wants to sell you the whole line not just the little connector.
1 inlet valve cam sensor male electrical sensor plug outer. Good luck with this part, as they get brittle and disintegrate when you take them off.
Why swap out the cam-chain tensioner? they don't do a lot of work they don't seam to wear about the only thing is they fill with sludge if you don't changes the oil properly. I have never seen one worn.
This also go for cam chain guides. Unless the chain is that loose that the chain has cracked the guides rarely replace them..
Best practice route.
add to the list
2 O-rings for the water pump
all three cam chain guides
head gasket
16 valve stem seals
2 plugs for the cam chain guide pins.
oil pump
cam chain tensioner
cam chain tensioner bracket
balance chain
balance chain tensioner
O-ring from behind the cylinder head to heater line
think that's it
Originally Posted by slammer111
Looking into doing this job again, as the car now has almost 230k on the original chain.
Can someone list the parts required for a M271 engine, as well as the latest MB PNs? Talking about parts only, not the equipment or tools as I'll be bringing everything to my local indie who has the proper MB kit for the job.
Additional questions:
1) Has the bracket that the tensioner screws into been updated? Talking about PN 2710520640 or some variation. I can't tell if I'm supposed to replace this if installing the updated tensioner.
2) There seems to mention of some rubber plug that has to be removed in order to remove the tensioner. Can this plug be reused? If not, what's the PN for it?
3) Is there anything else I need here, or is there some O-ring or other gasket between the tensioner and the engine block?
Thanks for the information. I assume this is to swap out both chains?
Has anyone on the forum had any issues with the lower (balancer) chain stretching to the point of engine damage? So far it seems like everyone is only having problems with the top (timing) chain.
I was hoping to simply replace the timing chain and tensioner with the latest and greatest versions.
Craig, do you know anything about the rubber plug?
You wont need the tensioner plug. you need to replace the tensioner and the bracket. so that means the lower timing chest and sump needs to be taken off.
Don't forget to factor in good quality timing gears and the price of labour to retro fit the vanos units to the gears, the gears will cost you up to $1000 US for both gears
Craig, for my own information, what is the PN for the old bracket? Everywhere I look there seems to be just a single PN 2710520640, with no mention of a supeseded bracket. I'm wondering if this is why MB is saying the bracket doesn't need to be replaced (assuming the oil is of the correct spec and is changed regularly). Did the old brackets you removed have the non-return valve inside?
Have you seen any issues with the balancer chain stretching? This one doesn't seem to be mentioned much anywhere.
Last edited by slammer111; 07-20-2019 at 07:12 PM.
Hi all, I just end up in a point where i can't go on with my job. I've started to change my timing chains on a mercedes benz c230 1.8 Kompressor (w203 m 271), but i can't remove the guide rail tensioner from right side, the one which has three pins. I've removed the one from the head from top,but the two ones i've seen that need to remain there. So,how can i take that rail guide without ripping the whole engine apart? ( the timing cover is already off so i have acces, I've removed the tensioner,the chain,the left guide rail)
Hi all, I just end up in a point where i can't go on with my job. I've started to change my timing chains on a mercedes benz c230 1.8 Kompressor (w203 m 271), but i can't remove the guide rail tensioner from right side, the one which has three pins. I've removed the one from the head from top,but the two ones i've seen that need to remain there. So,how can i take that rail guide without ripping the whole engine apart? ( the timing cover is already off so i have acces, I've removed the tensioner,the chain,the left guide rail)
Those guide rails are a friction fit over a metal circling. Just put a small pry bar behind the guide rail and pop it off.
But incase someone else needs to know. The cylinder head needs to be removed. Otherwise you can only change 2 of the 4 rails.
However... it really strange you managed to remove the front timing cover...which is more work than the actual head. No way will you be able to put it back on like this without leaks. You can manage without removing oil pan. But head gasket? No way.
also last tip. If you can, it’s quicker to just pull the motor. You can even remove the front clip and roll out if need be.
Last edited by jaGTAR KAHLON; 02-21-2020 at 08:14 AM.
Hi guys, I have just done this myself, but unfortunately had to replace all the valves too as the chain came off while driving.
The question I have relates to the exhaust cam. The timing mark on the intake cam adjuster lines up with the timing mark on the camshaft. but with the exhaust cam these two marks don’t line up. The cam adjuster is spring loaded so I can rotate it and get the timing marks to line up that way, but is that what I’m suppose to do or is the cam adjuster faulty? See pic.
That thread is also a good reference.
Please read the "Set basic position of camshafts" document.
Yea, the pictures aren't good. But, if you look closely, you can see the VVT (Varible Valve Timing) assembly offset for both the intake and exhaust cams.
Those are the fail-safe positions of the VVT assembly. If you think about how the VVT adjustments work, and how more performance is obtained, it makes sense.
Have you ever stripped one of those CGI gears?
To see how they work.
WIthout oil pressure they are locked in place
You should Not be able to turn them!
they are designed and function totally different to a 111 engine.
If you can turn the gear when bolted to the cam as in his pic then the gear is throw away!
if you need the tool to hold everything...
let me know.
as long as you promise to return it here, publicly on the forum. Returned to me
in similar condition, used/like new, just cover shipping back and forth.
i have not used it myself yet...
but I’ll share...
Sorry to post/resurrect an old thread. When feeding the new chain with the tool kit and turning the crankshaft bolt, is the chain supposed to be meshed with the teeth on the camshaft gears and the cams turning in sync with the crankshaft?
I’m getting ready to do my timing chain and have some questions before I get started. I have the cam and timing chain tool kit shown below. My question is are tool numbers 1 and 2 user together to pull the chain through? I would think only #1 is used otherwise the sprockets won’t rotate the chain to feed it on. If only #1 is used, would the cams move out of time?
Last edited by Pauliescff; 08-23-2020 at 04:32 PM.
Hi,
I have a leaking set of cam magnets. No oil on harness side of pigtails.
I’m being informed that is because of a failing timing chain.
I was under the impression these are not related instances and the cam design is poor, thus the leaking.
My engine had its campaign “closed” by the Dealer handing me the pigtail kit, new poly bagged as I bought and installed my own at first chance. It did not, to my knowledge, get any other new parts...
Can anyone shed insight into the possible (which I’m not denying or doubting) relationship between oil from the magnets and the plagued failing m271 chain?
I planned to replace chain this summer as I just hit 90,000.
I am not the expert and although I still have my 2005 C230 (in fact I now have a second) I haven't kept up on the forum for some time so my memory about C230 stuff is subject to geezer's memory. Here's what I understand:
I believe you are right about the lack of relationship between the leaking magnets and timing chain. The pigtails should be done regardless so that oil does not travel through your harness and ruin your electronics.
Timing chains are a problem in the M271 but it is not guaranteed. They also last a varying amount of time. Some stretch before 80,000 and some, like mine, are still good after 120,000 (at least good enough that it hasn't jumped a tooth). I was told by a guy at a shop that the culprit is related to oil and that maintaining proper oil change intervals either eliminates or at least reduces the problem. Unless you have some reason to think your chain is getting loose, you don't need to change it. It wouldn't be a bad ides to have it checked by a competent mechanic.
Guys, I need a bit of advice before even considering DIY:ing this job.
What do I do if I discover the cams are out of alignment when I open her up? Can they be turned into alignment again, in place, with a wrench? If so, why do I even need to lock them at all? Or do I need to remove the sprockets if they're out of alignment, and re-install them aligned? Meaning that the actual camshafts are in time, but not the sprockets?
I'm missing something crucial here. And I'm getting confused over the locking of the cams. Some posts in this thread say that the cams need to turn with the crank when you feed the chain through, but that can't be true.
If the cams can be turned freely without the chain on, I'm thinking of just making sure to turn the crank an even number of revolutions when feeding the new chain through, and then just align the cams up (if they even move during the feeding), and put the new chain on, without ever locking the cams. But what am I missing?
Also, I VERY VERY VERY STRONGLY suggest that you get a copy of MB WIS, or MB DAS (from ebay).
You can also get them pre-installed on a laptop for ~$300-$600.
Go by what MB says, not what you read on the InterWeb.
Imho, that software is "questionable" at best.
So, I VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY STRONGLY suggest that you do not install it on a PC that has anything important, or passwords, etc.
Then again, maybe your jobs, bank accounts, credit line, life, etc are not worth ~$100 for a dedicated laptop. Imho, if that's the case, that's sad. Also, considering that print service manuals are ~$150++, it's also foolish to not spend the money for a cheap laptop. NOTE: Make sure the laptop comes with a battery, charger, DVD reader, and you want to see a picture of the laptop running Win10 in the listing.
Otherwise, don't even consider the listing. The seller is either trying to hide that the POS laptop doesn't boot, or they are a MASSIVE MORON for not showing the laptop running Win10 and saying that the laptop comes with a battery and charger. Either way, avoid *****hole sellers like that.
Walmart, Target, etc used to sell low cost Windows10 laptops for under $100. But, no more.
Then again, there used to be enough "computer/electronic chip" manufacturing capacity to satisfy the demands.
07-15-2019, 05:39 AM
