Hi Ya'll, this little marshmallow is in need of some TLC. I picked him up this weekend, in the dark no less, and decided that if he gave me too much trouble, he might bring more than the $3300 I gave for him. He's having his rotors turned and a pad check now, but then we must get him some vision help. What would you do with these headlights? Has anyone had any luck having them polished? Thanks!

 

Personally would try myself to polish as others here have done. Try the search function.
But you could try a detailing shop or good auto body shop and inquire about getting your lights buffed.
FYI, turning rotors is not the best idea as it removes mass from the rotor used to bleed off heat. If this was just to remove rust from the surface then you should be okay.
New rotors for your car would not be that expensive, here in Canada they want about 20 bucks a rotor to turn, aftermarkets are fine also and will work just the same.
Enjoy the new car.

 

I don't have those anymore, upgraded to Bix.
I periodically polish them with 1200 grit emery cloth,
and then buff with Plast-X.
They sell kits too...basically contain the same stuff.

So it's a 320? Sweet!
Reliable engine.
Post more pics!

And yeah, like others said, don't turn the rotors, they'll just warp.
That's a sweet price for very nice car! 2005 is the best year.
How many miles on that car?

 

Sounds like a steal for 3300, eh? Nice.

 

This is the kit I've used. Works pretty well. But you have to make sure to double tape the metal around the headlights, as the buffing will take the paint off if you're not careful.

 

Ah Tommy, VVF, C230 Sport Coup,
Thanks all for the replies! I loved this little guy at first site, and I'm so glad to have found like minds. Well, he did come with a steal of a buy price, but you all know, I have garage time ahead... 127,000 miles...he gets his first physical tomorrow, and I know for starters it's a tie rod, a brake sensor wire- front right, and a check engine light diagnosis of some exhaust condition... he's got a mean rattle/chatter around the hatch.. have any of you experienced this? I'll search it, too. Here's some more pics..

 

Yours is a pretty car, C230 Sport Coupe. I'll learn much from you . Critter, I replied to your post yesterday, but am not seeing it on the thread. Thanks for your worthy advice!

 

The tech guy in my closest big city recommended the same.. thanks!

 

There are rubber seals on either side of the hatch; they may be either missing or coming off. Is it a metallic sound?

 

Oh boy guyz, now I need a mechanic boyfriend...the estimate today was
l a r g e....yes I paid little for the car, so I knew I would have to dump the wallet, but there sure are discrepancies between mechanics.
Today I was delivered this:
Right Front control arm, right front outer tie rod and alignment- $940.10
(The mechanic Saturday said I needed a left front outer tie rod and alignment)
Then...
Front Brakes(Replacing Rotors, pads and sensors)- $689.20
(The mechanic Saturday turned all four rotors and said the were good, and also said my brake pads were good, and that I just needed a right front sensor)

Dipstick tube seal and transmission connector- $492.72
(To be done with Oil Change- $117.58)

And they want to charge me $153.o2 to Check engine light code for EGR flow, diagnostic needed. The light was on yesterday, but I've run through half a tank of premium, and the light is no longer on. I only told them about.

Saturdays mechanic was a backyard shop, today's was the city Euro shop.
Alrighty experienced Benzo's, is this in line with reality?

 

Looks like they are trying to upsell you...

Brakes I would wait and see if any wobble develops, then replace (high chance that they are ok and don't need to be replaced at this point). Depends on how well you trust the word of the shady tree mechanic. Though there's no point for him to tell you it's fine when he could have told you to replace the parts IMHO.
But, 2 rotors will run about 300 at a euro shop, plus pads 50-100, so seems like a fair price (you could save by buying your own parts if they allow that).

Since they are not sure about control arms, better to replace both Parts will be ~300 for two control arms at a euro shop(updated this pricing), cheaper if you buy yourself (buy Lemfoerder).
Outer tie rods are something like $50 apiece.
Alignment should cost around 150.

I'd have the backyard mechanic install the parts then have the euro shop perform alignment.
Remind the mechanic that control arm bushing bolts _must_ be tightened with the car at its normal ride height, otherwise the bushings will break pronto.

Not sure about transmission - if they are doing the tranny fluid flush $500 with replacing the connector is about right, if a bit high.

No more CEL - don't waste money on diagnostics.

Good luck.
Even with all this, still not a bad deal for the car

 

Geez, those be high prices...
Like what we'd pay in San Jose, one of the most expensive places in the country.

I never heard of someone turning their rotors and not replacing the pads.
Huh? Why would anyone do that?

If you get a CEL (check engine light) that goes out, fuggetaboutit!
How can they know you need a $150 diagnostic if they can't even read what the code was?

And front rotors are not $250 for your car, the 2005 coupe didn't have the big brakes of the sedan, unless you added them.
They are probably about 70 each. Stick with the oem ones. Order from http://www.oediscountparts.com
which is actually a dealership in Ashville NC. Tracy, the internet parts person, is real big help with sourcing the right parts. They give a 20-25% discount of msrp on parts.
Most dealers charge over the msrp on parts.
And of course Akebono ceramic pads. Also probably about 60-70 for a set that will last you a 100K miles. So total for parts would be about $200 and labor is about an hour total per axle.
Just checked the price of genuine mercedes rotors on eoparts...link I gave you....
50 bucks each. Free shipping! $800 ? Only if they charge $600 an hour for labor!
With power tools, and a car on a lift I could do the front and rear in about 1 hour.

2034210312 - ROTOR C230

MSRP Core ? Online Price $66.00 $0.00 $49.50
Akebono ceramics are only about $50 too and comes with the sensor.
Total cost would be about $150-160 for parts. Maybe buy the parts and hand them to the shade tree guy, and don't authorize more than a couple hours. Really should be an hour max.

Keep looking around for an honest mechanic, and make sure they have a "Star Diagnostic" computer, which is the special computer for reading errors on mercedes.
Lots of shops who claim to work on MB don't have it, and then they can only guess.

A control rod, tie rod and alignment for a Grand? Wtf are they smoking?
Without even checking the parts prices that can't be more than a few hundred total.
And FYI, the only adjustment they can make on the front end is toe.
It's possible to adjust the camber but no one does it, because it's too much of a hassle.
Any tire shop can do a alignment. In fact maybe get a quote from like the local firestone shop on replacing those suspension components, if they even turn out to be bad.

Mechanics love to take advantage of women. Even if you don't have a guy who will work on
your car, try to find a friend to talk to the mechanic and have them show him what and why it needs replacing. When someone with a little car knowledge starts asking the right questions, the prices for repairs will go down.
Print out parts prices from the website i gave you and show them what they parts should cost.
I did that recently and the mechanic dropped the prices on the parts on my GF's ML.

Oh and a brake sensor costs 5 bucks.
Why would it need replacing? Does the dash say you need brakes?
It grinds down with the pads and eventually makes contact with the rotor
and make the light go on. There's only one sensor on one pad on one side of the front.
No sensor for the rear brakes. Even when it goes usually you still have at least a thousand miles to go.

Sorry sounds like both the mechanics you've found so far are idiots.
No one turns rotors and keeps the original pads?
And how much did you pay for this?
Sorry, that was a total waste of money.

I empathize with you, not meaning to sound critical, just pisses me off
when I hear of mechanics doing crap like this.

Rattle around hatch can either be the plastic trim pieces, or the hatch itself.
Hatch itself is easily adjusted, but moving the hasp or the latch by loosening and adjusting the alignment. If it's the plastic trim pieces, for me, I removed them and put stick on felt i got from a lamp shop. Though perhaps some silicone spray might help. Spray around the joints, and wipe off the excess.
Connector on the trans is a $15 part.
Trans fluid change is usually about $200-300.
MAKE SURE they use the correct fluid, which is Mercedes ATF134.
Anything else and you'll be back in the shop for a new trans.
Assuming this is an auto.

Dipstick seal? Like on the dipstick or the tube?
Never heard of that being an issue, though I replaced the one on my dipstick.

 

Just awesome information boys! Thanks C230 SC and VVF!
It seems the Southern Gentlemen are being anything but...
The guides and sources you supplied below are priceless to me.
I won't go back to shade tree... he charged me $184. I will be sending him a copy of the estimate and ask him to be a gentleman and return my $$.
I have two more shops in my little town that I will go to tomorrow. I know one, and it won't be a problem to bring my own parts. In fact I'll start ordering them this weekend. Thanks, thanks, thanks for taking the time to write it all out and providing suppliers! The "Star Diagnostic" computer revelation probably saved me countless clams as well! I'll keep you posted with pictures here, and follow ups, and we'll have fun with the build out. I don't mind dropping 2k into him, but for that he better rock my world! Oh and here's a little detail I might want to take care of now while they'll have his shoes off.. His two rear wheels are cracked in about four places each, and have been repair...ished, but not really welded...tbc

 

You should also consider getting an OBDII reader, so that you can read and clear codes on your own. You'll learn that sometimes the ECU has a brain fart, and a code may come up that, once you clear it, it never comes back. And it's helpful to at least know what codes you have when you take it to a shop, because as you found, they all ain't that honest.

Might want to consider looking around CL and Ebay for some C7 rims and replace them instead of getting your current lemons welded. Those rims are pretty cheap these days.

 

Keep in mind some stuff can be done by anyone.
Alignments, brakes, that sort of stuff. But at the same time, you'll find good info here on what brand parts are best like Akebono brake pads that last practically forever!
Oil changes but only if they use the correct oil.

One of the most critical things with these cars is using the correct fluids!
There are lists around with what they are and also probably came with the car. High quality synth oil that meets MB standards such as Mobil 1, special trans fluids (ATF134), special brake fluids. And quality fuel.

If you go to a Mercedes shop, they should use the correct stuff.
Other places, well it's up to you to make sure they have a clue what they are doing. I had someone offer to flush my trans once for $200 but I knew the fluid costs more than that...well, unless you buy it online, from Shell who actually make the stuff.

Not sure how mechanical you are, but a lot of stuff is pretty easy.
The M112 6 cylinder engine is pretty bulletproof as is the 5 speed auto tranny IF you flush the fluid periodically, which during the time of mfg. Mercedes was trying to convince people that the fluid was a "lifetime fill".
Which is total BS.

Might be a little over your head...or not but try registering for an
EPC account (electronic parts catalog).
They'll ask for a credit card # to determine if you are in USA but if so it's free.
You can look up parts and part numbers by your VIN # and get diagrams. It can be difficult to find what you want sometimes, but one trick is to find a part # on ebay to figure out where in the catalog to look.
All MB part # have a "A" in front of them, but don't use the A when you search for prices on sites like the one I posted earlier.

http://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/

Getting a code reader, even if you don't fix it yourself will allow you to research issues and solution.
But OBD codes are not as exact as the codes you get from thje mercedes computer, but 8 out of 10 times you get the info you need.

I'd really like to know what your shady tree friend has to say about turning rotors and installing the old pads. Are you certain he did that?
That is so completely retarded.

 

Its all good info except for the trans flush, not a buyer into this snake oil, just how do you replace the filter in the trans, suck it out through the cooler line.
Go for a complete oil and filter change for the transmission, flushing will only disturb what is sitting in the pan and could cause potential failure in the near future with sticky solenoids and excess debris floating around. IMO

 

AFAIK what is referred to as 'flush' here is actually more like a partial drain/fill with filter replacement

I am still wondering about that rotor turning business though.
If the front rotors are non-drilled, they probably don't develop any grooves like the drilled ones do? So what is the purpose of turning them? They must've been warped I would assume?

Anyway, sounds like the four new rotors cost approx the same as turning the old ones? Then the guy is shady indeed...

 

One must be careful when they take their car in for a flush which as far as I know means it will be hooked up to a machine and flushed. A drain replace filter and refill is totally different.
Make sure you say what you want. And get what you say.


As for the rotors, the tech or mech may have seen the backside of the rotor being in a bad way, which is quite common for rotors as hopefully someone here will agree with.
Anyone turning rotors to try and remove a warped condition is throwing money out the window.
Surface condition is the only reason it used to be done which 90% of the time was time wasted and the inevitable would occur anyways-replacement of the rotor

 

Hi guys,
I've interviewed two mechanics in my little town, one has worked on my cars for ten years, and he is going to do my suspension work and alignment for labor only, letting me supply the parts. The other has the star diagnostic computer and much MB experience, and he will handle the big stuff.
A new lower left control arm goes in tomorrow, I found it for $50 less than the mechanic, and we'll go from there. He thinks the Euro Shop was trying to wring me out... his guys polished my headlights yesterday and they did an amazing job! Check it out!...

 

Good job, Can you imagine how much the previous owner would have wanted if it looked this good.

 

Honestly though, OP, I'd invest in a decent tool kit.
These cars are fairly reliable, but if you can't fix it yourself they can easily become unaffordable to own. That being said, they're actually really easy to work on, for the most part.

Brakes and fluid changes are fairly straight forward and there are many guides on this forum. I'd say do it yourself. You'll save a buttload.

 

I believe once you get these small issues fixed you will reach a point where the car will give you years of satisfaction, Enjoy

 

Ummm...no, don't use a flush machine.
Drain the pan, drop the pan, replace the filter,
measure the fluid that came out. Put it back, tha'ts about 4 quarts but tranny hold 9.
Put new filter in, bolt it back up, You could be done now if you want, and this is what most mechanics will do. You can flush the rest out the trans cooling line at the radiator. See the stickies for doing this correctly. I wrote a DIY on it.
Since there are no TC drain, this is how it much be done.

Takes 12 quarts til it flows completely clean and purrs like a kitten. Done it twice so far.

OEM Rotors and akebono American made ceramic brakes will last 100K miles or more...only new factory rotors for me!
Turning rotors is obsolete.

 

Agreed! And no worrying about cam chains etc as on the 1.8L.
3.2 is so bulletproof.

 

I've turned the corner... I'm in love with the marshmallow. The replacement of the control arm and the alignment changed my whole driving experience. ($140) Now he's getting really fun! So my mechanic said there was no problem with my tie rods! And he thought the rotors and brakes were fine. He drove it as well. Truly these mechanics have vast differences in experience... He stuffed a rubber hose part between the plastic under the fin where it meets the hatchback and stopped the chatter. Next week, oily parts. I have a periodic oil smell coming into the cab. I saw a leak around a screw when it was on the lift, but this will be done by the star diagnostic guy. I may just do the tranny work at the same time and get it over with. Because then I can get on to the interior!
He seemed to think that I didn't need shocks or struts... it's a rougher ride than my Ford Explorer.. and he told me that its because its a different animal. I thought it would be smooth by the nature of it being a Mercedes. How's the ride for you guys?