2003 C230k M271 - coolant leak at back of engine
#76
Ha ha thanks. What was i doing... well there was a ticking noise under my dash for about 40seconds every time I started the car and it was driving me nuts! I don't wish it upon anyone! have a look at this for how sucky the job was. There is one screw that makes the job near impossible that requires the majority of the work. Next time I will just pull the plug out for it and problem solved... kinda ha ha. Oh It was a stepper motor for the AC btw
Last edited by JasonMB; 12-03-2018 at 07:01 PM.
#77
Thank you
I just want to say a big THANK YOU to all of you. This forum has saved me thousands of dollars and countless hours of frustration with my C230K.
The info sharing here is second to none and I can't thank all of you enough.
Now,
I have a long list of repairs to get to now that I have learned of most of them from this forum. Leaking cam sensors next.
By the way, a couple of years ago I took my car in because they told me it was under recall. All they did was change out the cam sensors wiring, not the leaky cam sensors. Why would they do that and only that? Why not solve the entire problem?
Thanks again guys for your great work and knowledge!
The info sharing here is second to none and I can't thank all of you enough.
Now,
I have a long list of repairs to get to now that I have learned of most of them from this forum. Leaking cam sensors next.
By the way, a couple of years ago I took my car in because they told me it was under recall. All they did was change out the cam sensors wiring, not the leaky cam sensors. Why would they do that and only that? Why not solve the entire problem?
Thanks again guys for your great work and knowledge!
#78
Leaking AGAIN! ...less than a year.
Less than a year & it seems my new pipe failed. The one I installed was 2712001352 - Oil Cooler Water Pipe. Bought on eBay. It had a curious triangular extra piece I never figured out and did NOT come with an O-ring. So...buyer beware if you see those on eBay.
I’m about to pull it out & investigate.
If this pipe IS the culprit, I’ll be ordering the next one either from fcpeuro.com or autohausaz.com
No more Chinese eBay nonsense for my car.
pix, in case they help someone else...
C230 coolant leak on floor
C230 coolant leak diagnosis. Signs point to Oil Cooler Water Pipe @ rear of M271 engine
The culprit - oil cooler water pipe 2712001352
Part #17 - oil cooler water pipe
I’m about to pull it out & investigate.
If this pipe IS the culprit, I’ll be ordering the next one either from fcpeuro.com or autohausaz.com
No more Chinese eBay nonsense for my car.
pix, in case they help someone else...
C230 coolant leak on floor
C230 coolant leak diagnosis. Signs point to Oil Cooler Water Pipe @ rear of M271 engine
The culprit - oil cooler water pipe 2712001352
Part #17 - oil cooler water pipe
#79
Super Member
For me, now, anything that I consider "very important, critical, or a PITA to replace", gets bought Directly from a Dealer.
As good as those other places are, they are far from being immune from being scammed and getting counterfeit parts.
If they say otherwise, then I say offer me an immediate CASH payout of 10million dollars (USD) if you sell me a fake part - put all in a legal document, and NO exceptions!
Of course, they'll all tell you to shove it.
On my "restoration" (of my already in great shape 85K mile C230K ), I bought ~90+% of my stuff Directly From Dealers.
I've posted an article about how prevalent, and profitable, counterfeit automotive parts are.
Good Luck!
#80
Where are the picks from made my own? I accidentally leaned on this and the hose connection cracked off- dont wanna purchase the whole piece as it only the end hose and possibly end adapter that needs replacing.
2035010025 - Coolant Recovery hose (personally, I think this hose is a dumb design, so I made my own. See pics)
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...mer-2035010025
Note: I believe this comes with the adapter.
Alternative to Coolant Recovery Hose
Some tubing and...
0039970689 - Coolant Recovery Hose Adapter
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...tor-0039970689
2003-2005 Mercedes C230 Cooling Hose Connector - Genuine W0133-1898545
2035010025 - Coolant Recovery hose (personally, I think this hose is a dumb design, so I made my own. See pics)
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...mer-2035010025
Note: I believe this comes with the adapter.
Alternative to Coolant Recovery Hose
Some tubing and...
0039970689 - Coolant Recovery Hose Adapter
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...tor-0039970689
Haha! We bought the exact same things! I also got 3 siphons — 1 to eventually change the supercharger oil (jet oil), 1 for oil changes, 1 for transmission fluid changes.
I recommend the hose clamp set, too. I found it really valuable. Before I diagnosed the plastic water pipe, I changed out the coolant expansion tank because the connector there had broken. It was made of the same material as the failed oil cooler pipe.
I got rid of that crazy hose-to-metal-pipe-to-hose nonsense that goes from the cylinder head to the expansion tank. I replaced it with a cheap hose from Autozone, replacing the old clamps with new ones along the way.
Oh...and the adapter!! Ugh.
Same material there, too. That tiny little piece of expensive plastic ($80 at my dealer, but only $9-$16 online) can render your car immobile, so I highly recommend changing that as well. In fact, buy 2 just to have one on-hand, just in case!
For anyone reading this who just bought one of these older W203 C230Ks:
A) FCP Euro offers a LIFETIME GUARANTEE on all parts. I don’t work for them, I just trust them a lot more than Amazon or Alibaba.
B) Replace the items below asap because they’re due to fail after ~12-14 years:
2712001352 - Water Pipe
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...des-2712001352
2035010025 - Coolant Recovery hose (personally, I think this hose is a dumb design, so I made my own. See pics)
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...mer-2035010025
Note: I believe this comes with the adapter.
Alternative to Coolant Recovery Hose
Some tubing and...
0039970689 - Coolant Recovery Hose Adapter
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...tor-0039970689
2035000049 - Expansion tank
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...k-2035000049my
2105010715 - Expansion tank cap (updated part number. Old: 210501515)
Old: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...cap-2105010515
New: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...500-2105010715
2712001552 - Water Pipe, oil cooler to cylinder head
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...230-2712001552
I recommend the hose clamp set, too. I found it really valuable. Before I diagnosed the plastic water pipe, I changed out the coolant expansion tank because the connector there had broken. It was made of the same material as the failed oil cooler pipe.
I got rid of that crazy hose-to-metal-pipe-to-hose nonsense that goes from the cylinder head to the expansion tank. I replaced it with a cheap hose from Autozone, replacing the old clamps with new ones along the way.
Oh...and the adapter!! Ugh.
Same material there, too. That tiny little piece of expensive plastic ($80 at my dealer, but only $9-$16 online) can render your car immobile, so I highly recommend changing that as well. In fact, buy 2 just to have one on-hand, just in case!
For anyone reading this who just bought one of these older W203 C230Ks:
A) FCP Euro offers a LIFETIME GUARANTEE on all parts. I don’t work for them, I just trust them a lot more than Amazon or Alibaba.
B) Replace the items below asap because they’re due to fail after ~12-14 years:
2712001352 - Water Pipe
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...des-2712001352
2035010025 - Coolant Recovery hose (personally, I think this hose is a dumb design, so I made my own. See pics)
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...mer-2035010025
Note: I believe this comes with the adapter.
Alternative to Coolant Recovery Hose
Some tubing and...
0039970689 - Coolant Recovery Hose Adapter
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...tor-0039970689
2035000049 - Expansion tank
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...k-2035000049my
2105010715 - Expansion tank cap (updated part number. Old: 210501515)
Old: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...cap-2105010515
New: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...500-2105010715
2712001552 - Water Pipe, oil cooler to cylinder head
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...230-2712001552
2712000015 Thermostat + O-Ring
2003-2005 Mercedes C230 Cooling Hose Connector - Genuine W0133-1898545
https://www.partsgeek.com/x7bh83n-me...connector.html
#81
All these plastic pieces breaking is very vey familiar. A few days ago the water pipe with thermostat blew out. replaced it.....35 seconds later after starting the drivers side of the radiator blew out...replaced it. pressure tested the system and the coolant pipe that feeds towards the back of the engine broke. Replaced it and pressure tested....all good for about 5 minutes and then 270-200-13-52 Water Pipe springs a massive leak..... got the part..... just gonna replace 271-203-06-02 Lower Pipe as well while I have it on lift.
The following users liked this post:
snobrrdr (02-27-2020)
#82
Ouch! Sorry all that’s happening to you. :/
btw...Good idea to replace this one, too. I’m fairly certain it’s the cause of many cooling system troubles. It springs leaks pretty easily (due to a few reasons: hose connection, o-ring, age/brittleness, etc.) It also gets clogged easily, but I don’t think a clog here would show up in a pressure test.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...tor-0039970689
btw...Good idea to replace this one, too. I’m fairly certain it’s the cause of many cooling system troubles. It springs leaks pretty easily (due to a few reasons: hose connection, o-ring, age/brittleness, etc.) It also gets clogged easily, but I don’t think a clog here would show up in a pressure test.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...tor-0039970689
All these plastic pieces breaking is very vey familiar. A few days ago the water pipe with thermostat blew out. replaced it.....35 seconds later after starting the drivers side of the radiator blew out...replaced it. pressure tested the system and the coolant pipe that feeds towards the back of the engine broke. Replaced it and pressure tested....all good for about 5 minutes and then 270-200-13-52 Water Pipe springs a massive leak..... got the part..... just gonna replace 271-203-06-02 Lower Pipe as well while I have it on lift.
#83
Ouch! Sorry all that’s happening to you. :/
btw...Good idea to replace this one, too. I’m fairly certain it’s the cause of many cooling system troubles. It springs leaks pretty easily (due to a few reasons: hose connection, o-ring, age/brittleness, etc.) It also gets clogged easily, but I don’t think a clog here would show up in a pressure test.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...tor-0039970689
btw...Good idea to replace this one, too. I’m fairly certain it’s the cause of many cooling system troubles. It springs leaks pretty easily (due to a few reasons: hose connection, o-ring, age/brittleness, etc.) It also gets clogged easily, but I don’t think a clog here would show up in a pressure test.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...tor-0039970689
Shop has the car now and says most likely will nee a new motor
#84
Super Member
Speaking of clogs.... there was a grayish slimy sludge inside the plastic pipe the goes across the top and splits into a Y. Where it connects to a hose that connects to the plastic pipe on the backside of the engine shown above. blocked SOLID.
Shop has the car now and says most likely will nee a new motor
Shop has the car now and says most likely will nee a new motor
I had a similar experience with Toyota PS fluid in a used Matrix that we bought several years ago ... most Toyotas take Dexron III (which is just ATF, deep red just like Cherry cough syrup), but they also have a clear "PS Fluid" that some of their cars need, that is not compatible. Evidently it is common for auto shops to put in the wrong fluid. When we bought the Matrix I looked under the hook, the fluid was clear (well ... brown ... but it wasn't the Dexron). The PS reservoir had gelled up sludge in the bottom, it took a while for me to flush it out with cleaner and flush the whole system a few times with fresh Dexron. Catastrophe averted.
I would think the first thing to try here is to pull the various hoses, water pump and thermostat to check for more sludge, then flush the cooling system a few times with some sort of solvent ...?
-- John
Last edited by jkowtko; 02-28-2020 at 07:42 AM.
#85
Junior Member
I just replaced the head coolant pipe today with a MB genuine part (not aftermarket). It was leaking at the lower Y pipe and at the hole going into the head. I also ordered a new Coolant Breather Pipe Socket (P/N 0039970689 MB genuine part) since I've seen a bunch of people having issues with these leaking or breaking off. I replaced the Pipe Socket after replacing the main pipe and went to stick it in the hole and noticed it seemed kinda loose event after pushing the clip back down. Started the engine and it is pouring coolant through the loose fitting with the engine running, so much so that I cannot drive the car (my daily driver). Anyone experienced this? Note that the new socket is exactly the same as the old and the new socket fits snuggly into the old main pipe. Is there a newer design for the main pipe and possibly a larger or different socket that goes with it? If not, I guess I'll have to order another main pipe and replace it again. Will be contacting the dealer tomorrow.
My car is a 2003 C230K with 273k miles. Guess the pipes fail more from age rather than mileage
My car is a 2003 C230K with 273k miles. Guess the pipes fail more from age rather than mileage
#87
Junior Member
If it isn’t fully inserted, wouldn’t the clip not close down on it? The clip closes down on the socket and prevents it from coming out. It’s noticeably loose when sticking it in the hole. The old pipe is much more snug fitting.
#89
Junior Member
Nope, the new one has the O-ring. The new socket/adapter is identical to the old one (new one is the one attached to the hose that is wet). Both sockets in the old pipe are so tight that I have to use pliers to pull them back out. With the new pipe, they're so loose that they basically fall out once unclipped (hence the excessive leaking). One thing I noticed is that the old pipe has some sort of metallic or shiny ring shape in the interior of the hole that the new one does not appear to have. Perhaps the new one was damaged or defective from the factory.
I called the dealer and they have a new pipe in stock. I'm going to take the socket and old pipe with me to make sure the dealer one fits. The original pipe I bought from Pelican Parts is a genuine Mercedes part, but the dealer said that Mercedes-Benz does not sell to Pelican.
Disconnected hose
Old pipe
sockets (old left, new right)
Connected hose
Full system
I called the dealer and they have a new pipe in stock. I'm going to take the socket and old pipe with me to make sure the dealer one fits. The original pipe I bought from Pelican Parts is a genuine Mercedes part, but the dealer said that Mercedes-Benz does not sell to Pelican.
Disconnected hose
Old pipe
sockets (old left, new right)
Connected hose
Full system
#90
Super Member
And you already installed it ... ugh. I had no idea there was any sort of an insert in there, I never thought to look. But it sounds like you've figured it out ... one more DIY lesson learned ...!
#91
Junior Member
Just got back from the dealer and the dealer pipe fits with the old and new socket as the old pipe did. Frustrating, but glad I got it figured out!
#92
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 3,125
Likes: 0
Received 210 Likes
on
201 Posts
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
Glad you figured it out. Where's this missing insert you speak of? Got a photo?
If anything you may have received a fake aftermarket part. Guess this is why some argue that critical parts should only be purchased at the dealer.
If anything you may have received a fake aftermarket part. Guess this is why some argue that critical parts should only be purchased at the dealer.
Last edited by slammer111; 04-28-2020 at 05:14 PM.
#93
Junior Member
I'm not sure. It would be inside the pipe I would assume. It's difficult to see inside.
Perhaps. I'm just hoping Pelican will refund my defective part.
Perhaps. I'm just hoping Pelican will refund my defective part.
#94
draining coolant before replacing back hose?
For anyone that has replaced JUST the back coolant pipe (part # 271-200-13-52), did you need to drain any coolant before removing the part? And if you didn't drain first - did much coolant pour out after removing it?
I'm just curious... since my hose is leaking, and the car has been sitting for a couple weeks - so I'm thinking that all the coolant in that area of the engine may have already drained out - so that if I disconnect the part now, no more coolant will be there to leak... and hence no need to drain any first. I also don't want to lose coolant all over the place, on the ground, when taking the part off.
thanks for any responses... I know most of the posts on this chain are very old, by now!
I'm just curious... since my hose is leaking, and the car has been sitting for a couple weeks - so I'm thinking that all the coolant in that area of the engine may have already drained out - so that if I disconnect the part now, no more coolant will be there to leak... and hence no need to drain any first. I also don't want to lose coolant all over the place, on the ground, when taking the part off.
thanks for any responses... I know most of the posts on this chain are very old, by now!
#95
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 3,125
Likes: 0
Received 210 Likes
on
201 Posts
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
If in doubt just empty out the expansion tank and pour it back in when done. Otherwise you're looking at a coolant top up for a few bucks. Pretty easy to do with a piece of tubing.
Pretty sure every pipe other than possibly that manifold one (the one above the exhaust pipes) is below the normal coolant level. In other words you're going to spill coolant when you remove the pipe.
Pretty sure every pipe other than possibly that manifold one (the one above the exhaust pipes) is below the normal coolant level. In other words you're going to spill coolant when you remove the pipe.
Last edited by slammer111; 05-22-2020 at 02:15 PM.
#96
Super Member
It's fairly easy to open the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator ... and you're going to have to fill the system anyway after you're done, so might as well take this opportunity to at least drain the system and put in some fresh coolant.
Fyi I showed a pic of the results of my water flush when I had to deal with the top coolant pipe leak ... https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post6394974
Fyi I showed a pic of the results of my water flush when I had to deal with the top coolant pipe leak ... https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post6394974
Last edited by jkowtko; 05-21-2020 at 09:27 AM.
#97
replacing back-of-engine pipe
FYI ... I replaced the part below on my 2003 c230. Like others that have posted here, the plastic itself had cracked right where the o-ring fits over it (the thinnest part of the plastic). The piece that fell off is on the right-most below, with the o-ring sitting over it. The o-ring itself was pretty worn, but may have held up. I think a previous mechanic had put RTV to try and shore up the leak, but the RTV had eventually all squeezed out, resulting in the pooling of coolant. Interestingly, it only seemed to leak when the car had completely cooled down, as other have posted here.
Here are some tips for those that need to fix this, which I haven't heard above - sorry if any of this is duplicated:
Thanks so much to everyone on this forum, for all your great advice... this is the second repair that was a breeze, only thanks to the people here.
Here are some tips for those that need to fix this, which I haven't heard above - sorry if any of this is duplicated:
- To remove the rigid vacuum tube that is right above this pipe, note that you need to press on the tabs ABOVE the loose/floppy circle at the base of the connector. From earlier posts, I thought you were supposed to squeeze the lower/floppy area, but that didn't seem to help much. I also found I had to wiggle it for minutes - literally... it just would not come up without a fight, no matter where I squeezed. This is a strange kind of plastic/metal clamping mechanism. Try maybe squeezing one way, and then another, as you wiggle it up - maybe that works best
- Also, when twisting the vacuum tube up and out of the way, don't be too scared of it breaking... and use the angle of it for leverage, but also support it near the end that attaches to the nipple, to avoid it cracking
- after moving away the rigid vacuum tube, I highly recommend to remove the motor mount (pictured left below)... that will give you way more space to work with. It only needs you to remove the two torx bolts. Note that you cannot remove the torx bolts by themselves... you need to first loosen them both all the way, and then take out the hook as one entire piece, with the torx bolts still inside
- oh - and you definitely want one of those very stubby socket wrenches that have a flexible arm, so you can actually work back there
- as for the hose clip pictured top/right below - you can undo the part around the hose by sort of twisting the clip out of shape - that will give you a place to grab and push the inserting plastic tab up and out of the plastic tabs that are surrounding it
- next, there is a tiny plastic rod that does NOT penetrate the hose (you can see it pictured below, after it has been pushed out of the retaining clip), but just sits inside the part of the clip that inserts into the main plastic pipe below... from the area where it inserts into the main pipe, use a poking tool to push the tiny little rod out of the 3-pronged area that inserts into the main pipe... then the whole clip comes out easy. Just make sure the hose is removed first
- the hose that attaches directly to the pipe below is fairly pliable, and has space to move out of the way... I only siphoned the coolant from the top reservoir - I didn't drain all the coolant... and I didn't have more than a few drops come out when disconnecting the hose... although mine had probably already leaked down to that level before I started working on it.
- after removing the old/broken pipe, I used a cut piece of a credit card to scrape/clean out the old o-ring bits or ATV that was left where the pipe was removed... I made sure the piece was too big to actually fall into the engine coolant hole, in case i dropped it
- be sure to lubricate the new o-ring with coolant, to help it slide in easier
Thanks so much to everyone on this forum, for all your great advice... this is the second repair that was a breeze, only thanks to the people here.
#98
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 3,125
Likes: 0
Received 210 Likes
on
201 Posts
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
Glad to hear you were able to replace the pipe.
Figured out that weird triangular piece is. It's an intake manifold swirl flap off a V6 M272 engine.
Look at this thread, post #25.
Look at this thread, post #25.
Last edited by slammer111; 07-17-2020 at 04:46 AM.
#99
Removing the plastic clamp
How the hell did you remove that plastic clamp around that pliable hose? I spent over an hour on it and no go. I don't want to break it, although i thought about just snapping off the bracket on the plastic pipe that I was going to change out anyways.
Any other tips or tricks to get that clamp to open up? I tried a little screw driver to try to wedge it in between the two halves, but there is just no room for it.
Thank you!
Gary
Any other tips or tricks to get that clamp to open up? I tried a little screw driver to try to wedge it in between the two halves, but there is just no room for it.
Thank you!
Gary
- as for the hose clip pictured top/right below - you can undo the part around the hose by sort of twisting the clip out of shape - that will give you a place to grab and push the inserting plastic tab up and out of the plastic tabs that are surrounding it
- next, there is a tiny plastic rod that does NOT penetrate the hose (you can see it pictured below, after it has been pushed out of the retaining clip), but just sits inside the part of the clip that inserts into the main plastic pipe below... from the area where it inserts into the main pipe, use a poking tool to push the tiny little rod out of the 3-pronged area that inserts into the main pipe... then the whole clip comes out easy. Just make sure the hose is removed first
- the hose that attaches directly to the pipe below is fairly pliable, and has space to move out of the way... I only siphoned the coolant from the top reservoir - I didn't drain all the coolant... and I didn't have more than a few drops come out when disconnecting the hose... although mine had probably already leaked down to that level before I started working on it.
#100
Cheap cooler pipe...
How did that work out for you? It's $9.97 now and I bought it last night.
Also, how the hell did you remove that hose clip/lclamp? You and the other guy that did it seem to not really have an issue with this clamp. I spent an hour on it and broke the bracket that holds the hose clip/clamp.
Thanks!
Gary
Also, how the hell did you remove that hose clip/lclamp? You and the other guy that did it seem to not really have an issue with this clamp. I spent an hour on it and broke the bracket that holds the hose clip/clamp.
Thanks!
Gary
Wow that ratchet with the pivot head looks like heaven! I think I will ad that to my christmas list!
I used a standard ratchet and (once the hose that is clipped on the plastic hose is detached) it worked fine.
I actually managed to get both my hands back there too!
I got the part from Amazon here for $13 TOPAZ 2712001352 Coolant Water Pipe - Oil Cooler to Cylinder Head
But after 4 plus hours finally accepted that the supplied O'ring was too thick and bought this O'ring hit for $11 419pc Universal O-Ring Assortment Set Metric Kit Automotive Seal Rubber Gasket
With the right o'ring, it is actually 15MIN JOB!!!
So here are my arm positions as I lay on the engine
My hand could reach all the way down!!
I undid the hoseclip and clamp 1st. Do Not try and remove the Host clip with force, there is a pin holding it in.
I used a standard ratchet and (once the hose that is clipped on the plastic hose is detached) it worked fine.
I actually managed to get both my hands back there too!
I got the part from Amazon here for $13 TOPAZ 2712001352 Coolant Water Pipe - Oil Cooler to Cylinder Head
But after 4 plus hours finally accepted that the supplied O'ring was too thick and bought this O'ring hit for $11 419pc Universal O-Ring Assortment Set Metric Kit Automotive Seal Rubber Gasket
With the right o'ring, it is actually 15MIN JOB!!!
So here are my arm positions as I lay on the engine
My hand could reach all the way down!!
I undid the hoseclip and clamp 1st. Do Not try and remove the Host clip with force, there is a pin holding it in.