Bearded

Hello From Sydney, Australia.

I have a 2003 Kompressor 1.8L m271 and I have a pretty bad coolant problem. My car seems to be leaking coolant a lot! I have checked throughout the forum and I have seen many people having similar problems and the cause is the plastic pipe behind the engine leaking on top of the transmission. Is there a tutorial link on how to replace it?

I check under the car and found a **** tone of coolant and what seemed to be grease and i know the cause is from that plastic pipe however, I am also seeing coolant near and around the exhaust manifold. I don't know whether its from another plastic pipe somewhere.

Cam sensor oil leak that was pretty bad but I found on this forum how to repair it and running a lot better with no leaks

Another problem is Rough Idle yes I know this engine has a lot of issues and I'm pretty sure I'm miss firing on cylinder 1 but I bought a code reader just waiting for that to arrive so I'll update on that later.

Oil in throttle body I was cleaning out the MAF sensor and was also cleaning the throttle body and found a build up of what seemed to be oil inside of the throttle body as well as the pipe from the supercharger. I ran the car without the supercharger connected and the air coming out of the supercharger had a very faint hint of oil , like very faint hint. Is that normal?





Im pretty sure thats the main cause of the coolant leak from the back





Coolant leak on top of the exhaust manifold





Coolant leaking and even making its way up onto spark plug leads





Coolant under the car





grease or oil or both mixed with coolant

RWDlifer

I would recommend inspecting and/or replacing all the cooling system plastic piping and associated seals. Not expensive at all, start with the one running above the exhaust manifold and work your way around the back of the engine. Most of the time a coolant leak is due to brittle seals.

Boom vang

Check out my thread https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ance-item.html I think this is where your leak is from.

if you remove the resonator (wide band silencer) from the supercharger you will find that it is full of oil, this is normal, the SC tends to spit oil.

The camshaft actuators (magnets) are well known to leak, replace with new parts (these are not sensors) and install the pig-tail modification to stop further oil from migrating along the wiring harness if it has not done it already. If it reaches the ECU better have a close relationship with your bank manager as the harness and the ECU cost to repair is $$$$

SunnyRayToronto

Yeah,... listen to RWDlifer and Boom_Vang,... that $8 plastic nipple is the weak spot above the exhaust manifold. The back of the engine coolant leak should be solved with this one from Slammer111,... https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ck-engine.html

Bearded

Thanks guys for your help but I repaired the coolant leak today, it turns out it was leaking from 3 different locations.
Locations :
1. 0039970689 PLUG SOCKET.
2.2712001352 WATER LINE.
3.2712001552 HEATER FEED.

These are the parts and the part numbers incase you wanted to make your own repairs.
The leaks were from behind the engine , another was right were the exhaust heat sheild was and a small pipe plug that was mention in the forum linked by Boom Vag ( https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ance-item.html Coolant piple)

Bearded

However, im still having issues with the loss of power and rough idle when stand still at the lights

slammer111

There's a 4th plastic piece you may also want to replace. 271-200-12-56 which is the large hose connector at the front of the engine.

Bearded

I didn't think of that , I'll have a look at it tomorrow but I've been drive around with it all day and the reservoir level didn't drop so hopefully that's the end of the coolant leak. However, when I was changing the part in the back of the engine there was a lot of oily substance and I did some research on the amazing forum and found out it was the vacuum pump that's the cause of it, could this result in a bad idle after driving around for a while and only when I'm stopped in drive or even a loss in power?

slammer111

I would highly recommend replacing that last coolant piece. They're all made of the same plastic. If 3 of them already cracked on you, you can guess how much longer the 4th one is going to last.

A faulty vacuum pump (I assume you've found the thread) is known for causing a stutter as well. Some argue that a brand new pump is the only way to go, but I was able to completely fix the leak using some gasket maker (I used Permatex Black) in conjunction with a set of new gaskets.

Another possible reason for the stutter is the $12 hose.

Bearded

Yes Im gona go with buying a new pump , I think thats the best ay to go, I always ordered a timing chain because ive seen everywhere how after 100 000kms the chain may slip so im going to change it just to be safe.

Hopefully with the new pump the car will stop choking when im at a stand still in D or R.
Also does anyone know the part number for the $12 hose? im not sure but is this the correct part? number 165 http://www.mbpartsworld.com/showAsse...sembly=1077503 I might as well replace it too