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This took me a while to figure out so I thought I'd post a tutorial here.
The P0410 fault is pretty common and the usual answer is that your smog pump is going out. But on a C230 Kompressor there is no smog pump.
First some background on the secondary injection system. When you start the engine cold it takes some time for the catalytic converter to get up to operating temperature. The secondary air injection system (smog pump in most cars) pumps fresh air directly into the exhaust system to speed up the process.
Because the C230 Kompressor is supercharged there's no need for another air pump. Instead a line is diverted from the intake just before the throttle body. See below.
The system is controlled by a vacuum actuator valve. When the valve is under vacuum it opens and allows some of the boost pressure from the supercharger to by injected into the exhaust.
In my case the actuator was the problem. This is easy to test.
When you cold start the engine you should have a strong air current blowing through the valve. I had nothing there. The next thing to test is the vacuum line going to the top of the actuator.
If the vacuum line is good then you know it's the main valve that's stuck.
If you don't have any vacuum here it could be that your cat isn't cold enough and the system isn't running. Test the other side of the vacuum line going into the electronic actuator. You should always have vacuum there.
In my case that part of the system was working fine so I removed the main actuator valve. The intake side was clean but the exhaust side looked like someone had cooked scrambled eggs in it.
It doesn't take a huge amount of vacuum to open the valve. If you suck on the vacuum line you should be able to feel the valve open and close.
My valve was stuck (no surprise after seeing the crud built up in it) so I cleaned it out with carb cleaner until the valve could move again.
To get the carb cleaner all the way through the valve I filled up the intake side and then sucked on the vacuum line until it opened up and let the cleaner flow through. I did that a few times until it got easier. I doubt this method is OSHA approved since you're going to be breathing some strong fumes. I'm sure a vacuum pump is recommended. If your pinky finger is small enough you might be able to reach in and push the valve up and down to get it moving freely again.
I don't recommend soaking the entire piece in carb cleaner because it could eat away the diaphragm in the valve, but a little bit shouldn't hurt it.
After you've got it good and clean repeat the whole process with WD40, both to clean it more and remove any moisture from the valve but also to lubricate it.
Reinstall the valve and attach the vacuum line, but leave the exhaust side off both so you can test it but also so you can blow out any left over crud that you don't want going back into the cat. Cold start the engine and test for strong air flow as in figure 1. Make sure the valve closes completely. If the valve is leaking after it's closed I'd replace it because this is lost boost pressure.
Make sure you get the hoses clamped securely. Buy new hose clamps if you need to (I did) because the intake side of the system is under full boost pressure. Again, any leaks here is wasted horsepower.
I cleared the check engine light and so far so good. There are other issues that can cause P0410 but at least this can help eliminate the most probable cause.
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Great thread! There are some other threads out there about this, and one
I compiled in a document for readibily that covers that traces the whole system.
Nice photos on the shut off valve. I've gotten an occasional error, which I guess is when it gets stuck occasionally.
The check valve is the on thats a real beetch to get at.
So, attaching here for future reference.
UPDATE: After a couple of weeks the light came back on with the same codes. Not only was the bypass valve plugged but the check valve that prevents backflow from the exhaust was also jammed up solid. As others have pointed out, it's nearly impossible to remove that valve from the brass tube that connects to the exhaust manifold, but I was able to get it open and flowing freely without removing it. Again, I used carb cleaner to clear out the oil deposits and WD-40 to break up the rust. There's more to it than that so I made a video.
Congratulation for post.
One question, how much strong it should be the air current ?
I turn on the engine after 10 min of stop; Vacuum it's ok, no air in output of first valve, then i tested the input air ... just a gently blow
i'm afraid of compressor.
Best Regards
How much strong it should be the air current?
Originally Posted by Kangaroonicorn
This took me a while to figure out so I thought I'd post a tutorial here.
The P0410 fault is pretty common and the usual answer is that your smog pump is going out. But on a C230 Kompressor there is no smog pump.
First some background on the secondary injection system. When you start the engine cold it takes some time for the catalytic converter to get up to operating temperature. The secondary air injection system (smog pump in most cars) pumps fresh air directly into the exhaust system to speed up the process.
Because the C230 Kompressor is supercharged there's no need for another air pump. Instead a line is diverted from the intake just before the throttle body. See below.
The system is controlled by a vacuum actuator valve. When the valve is under vacuum it opens and allows some of the boost pressure from the supercharger to by injected into the exhaust.
In my case the actuator was the problem. This is easy to test.
When you cold start the engine you should have a strong air current blowing through the valve. I had nothing there. The next thing to test is the vacuum line going to the top of the actuator.
If the vacuum line is good then you know it's the main valve that's stuck.
If you don't have any vacuum here it could be that your cat isn't cold enough and the system isn't running. Test the other side of the vacuum line going into the electronic actuator. You should always have vacuum there.
In my case that part of the system was working fine so I removed the main actuator valve. The intake side was clean but the exhaust side looked like someone had cooked scrambled eggs in it.
It doesn't take a huge amount of vacuum to open the valve. If you suck on the vacuum line you should be able to feel the valve open and close.
My valve was stuck (no surprise after seeing the crud built up in it) so I cleaned it out with carb cleaner until the valve could move again.
To get the carb cleaner all the way through the valve I filled up the intake side and then sucked on the vacuum line until it opened up and let the cleaner flow through. I did that a few times until it got easier. I doubt this method is OSHA approved since you're going to be breathing some strong fumes. I'm sure a vacuum pump is recommended. If your pinky finger is small enough you might be able to reach in and push the valve up and down to get it moving freely again.
I don't recommend soaking the entire piece in carb cleaner because it could eat away the diaphragm in the valve, but a little bit shouldn't hurt it.
After you've got it good and clean repeat the whole process with WD40, both to clean it more and remove any moisture from the valve but also to lubricate it.
Reinstall the valve and attach the vacuum line, but leave the exhaust side off both so you can test it but also so you can blow out any left over crud that you don't want going back into the cat. Cold start the engine and test for strong air flow as in figure 1. Make sure the valve closes completely. If the valve is leaking after it's closed I'd replace it because this is lost boost pressure.
Make sure you get the hoses clamped securely. Buy new hose clamps if you need to (I did) because the intake side of the system is under full boost pressure. Again, any leaks here is wasted horsepower.
I cleared the check engine light and so far so good. There are other issues that can cause P0410 but at least this can help eliminate the most probable cause.
Yes, it sounds like your compressor or bypass valve. It should be a strong air flow, similar to a hair dryer.
Originally Posted by lumaranz
Congratulation for post.
One question, how much strong it should be the air current ?
I turn on the engine after 10 min of stop; Vacuum it's ok, no air in output of first valve, then i tested the input air ... just a gently blow
do you have powerloss with those codes ? coz i have ...
No, there should be no noticeable power loss. Sounds like you've got something else happening. Check your manifold pressure while driving to make sure your supercharger is working. You should have 4 or 5 lbs of boost at WOT.
maby u can understend my problem better. i have those two codes with powerloss. in my case westgate valve wasnot closing witch causes thease codes to show up coz no preasure goes to o2 sensor in cold start. what i did was i bought enother one very cheap and for 2 months everything was fine. no fault codes at all. but powerloss , codes came back after 2 months. i just cannot understend what is causing thia problem. system goes limp 8n every 3 days. i wake up, on thet 3rd day and i know i must reset westgate for car to run fast so is it o2 ? is it maf ? or maby westgate valve just broke in 2 months ? very strange. all my valves work fine. exept one thats behind the engine i couldnot check it. but why every 3 day ? it has something to do with electronics.
maby u can understend my problem better. i have those two codes with powerloss. in my case westgate valve wasnot closing witch causes thease codes to show up coz no preasure goes to o2 sensor in cold start. what i did was i bought enother one very cheap and for 2 months everything was fine. no fault codes at all. but powerloss , codes came back after 2 months. i just cannot understend what is causing thia problem. system goes limp 8n every 3 days. i wake up, on thet 3rd day and i know i must reset westgate for car to run fast so is it o2 ? is it maf ? or maby westgate valve just broke in 2 months ? very strange. all my valves work fine. exept one thats behind the engine i couldnot check it. but why every 3 day ? it has something to do with electronics.
I've currently been experiencing a similar problem. I don't think it's the recirculation flap (wastegate), at least in my case. After driving at WOT for a few minutes I will lose all my boost, which tells me the recirculation flap has gone into limp mode and is stuck open. If I turn off the car and do an ECU throttle reset (turn the key to the on position, hold the gas pedal down for five seconds, then turn the key off and starting the car again) the boost pressure comes right back. I'm almost positive that it's a failsafe being triggered in the ECU, I just haven't figured out what it is yet. I suspect it's something with the cooling system, because that's a common issue on the AMG models when the auxiliary water pump fails. But those have a liquid cooled intercooler, and mine doesn't so it's still a mystery. I'll post an update if I get to the bottom of it.
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Yup, same problem used recirculation flap crapped out.
Buy a good one.
Make sure you do the "Learning in Recirculating Air Valve".
One person to push the flap off center and one person to turn the key.
A1110980109 (anything with this part number will be ancient already)
Air Recirc Supercharger or superceded pn 1110980050
(newer)
Possible Bosch pn 0280750467
I contacted this guy about our part, but he says he doesn't rebuild these.
One of the video's not sure which one, shows the potentiometer like the one on this part behind the black cover,
going into to limp mode, which is just closed no boost. https://www.youtube.com/user/vsandvs/feed
I need the $300 part but holding out till after Christmas.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Dec 13, 2017 at 05:28 PM.
thank you for replys.
interesting fact : in my case i did both methods. one person was pushing and second turning key. i did it 2 times but the result is ecsacly the same without touching throttle valve at all. in both cases valve is stucking after about 3 days.
i think i willnot bye a new valve. its too expensive and the car is cheap. maby i would but i'mont sure it will solve the problem. i work in official center of enother german brand and one of our electrics say maby i have bad connection with valve itself. he said some pins loose contact time after time. he isnot saying it will solve the problem but we will try to make a good connection. after i will tell you the result.
Yup, same problem used recirculation flap crapped out.
Buy a good one.
Make sure you do the "Learning in Recirculating Air Valve".
One person to push the flap off center and one person to turn the key.
A1110980109 (anything with this part number will be ancient already)
Air Recirc Supercharger or superceded pn 1110980050
(newer)
Possible Bosch pn 0280750467
I contacted this guy about our part, but he says he doesn't rebuild these.
One of the video's not sure which one, shows the potentiometer like the one on this part behind the black cover,
going into to limp mode, which is just closed no boost. https://www.youtube.com/user/vsandvs/feed
I need the $300 part but holding out till after Christmas.
Thanks for the info. Mine is the original recirc flap, so I'm not sure that relearning the flap position will help, but it's worth a try.
This took me a while to figure out so I thought I'd post a tutorial here.
The P0410 fault is pretty common and the usual answer is that your smog pump is going out. But on a C230 Kompressor there is no smog pump.
First some background on the secondary injection system. When you start the engine cold it takes some time for the catalytic converter to get up to operating temperature. The secondary air injection system (smog pump in most cars) pumps fresh air directly into the exhaust system to speed up the process.
Because the C230 Kompressor is supercharged there's no need for another air pump. Instead a line is diverted from the intake just before the throttle body. See below.
The system is controlled by a vacuum actuator valve. When the valve is under vacuum it opens and allows some of the boost pressure from the supercharger to by injected into the exhaust.
In my case the actuator was the problem. This is easy to test.
When you cold start the engine you should have a strong air current blowing through the valve. I had nothing there. The next thing to test is the vacuum line going to the top of the actuator.
If the vacuum line is good then you know it's the main valve that's stuck.
If you don't have any vacuum here it could be that your cat isn't cold enough and the system isn't running. Test the other side of the vacuum line going into the electronic actuator. You should always have vacuum there.
In my case that part of the system was working fine so I removed the main actuator valve. The intake side was clean but the exhaust side looked like someone had cooked scrambled eggs in it.
It doesn't take a huge amount of vacuum to open the valve. If you suck on the vacuum line you should be able to feel the valve open and close.
My valve was stuck (no surprise after seeing the crud built up in it) so I cleaned it out with carb cleaner until the valve could move again.
To get the carb cleaner all the way through the valve I filled up the intake side and then sucked on the vacuum line until it opened up and let the cleaner flow through. I did that a few times until it got easier. I doubt this method is OSHA approved since you're going to be breathing some strong fumes. I'm sure a vacuum pump is recommended. If your pinky finger is small enough you might be able to reach in and push the valve up and down to get it moving freely again.
I don't recommend soaking the entire piece in carb cleaner because it could eat away the diaphragm in the valve, but a little bit shouldn't hurt it.
After you've got it good and clean repeat the whole process with WD40, both to clean it more and remove any moisture from the valve but also to lubricate it.
Reinstall the valve and attach the vacuum line, but leave the exhaust side off both so you can test it but also so you can blow out any left over crud that you don't want going back into the cat. Cold start the engine and test for strong air flow as in figure 1. Make sure the valve closes completely. If the valve is leaking after it's closed I'd replace it because this is lost boost pressure.
Make sure you get the hoses clamped securely. Buy new hose clamps if you need to (I did) because the intake side of the system is under full boost pressure. Again, any leaks here is wasted horsepower.
I cleared the check engine light and so far so good. There are other issues that can cause P0410 but at least this can help eliminate the most probable cause.
Originally Posted by lumaranz
Congratulation for post.
One question, how much strong it should be the air current ?
I turn on the engine after 10 min of stop; Vacuum it's ok, no air in output of first valve, then i tested the input air ... just a gently blow
i'm afraid of compressor.
Best Regards
How much strong it should be the air current?
PLEASE ASSIST BY EXPLAINING 3 CONNECTIONS ON THE ACTUATOR VALVE
2 annotations: The P0410 error on the M111 supercharged engine often comes from a dirty recirculation flap. The ECU thinks it moves too slow and switches it off, leading to an P0410 on next cold start.
You can clean it by open the flap mechanic, remove the PWM motor and clean the bearings.
The actuator has an electrical and vacuum/boost connection. During secondary air phase, it is vacuum on the valve to open it, during normal operation it is the intake pressure and also boost on it to leave it closed.
When the valve gets old there is some leakage.
Not only was the bypass valve plugged but the check valve that prevents backflow from the exhaust was also jammed up solid. As others have pointed out, it's nearly impossible to remove that valve from the brass tube that connects to the exhaust manifold, but I was able to get it open and flowing freely without removing it. Again, I used carb cleaner to clear out the oil deposits and WD-40 to break up the rust. There's more to it than that so I made a video. 
so is it o2 ? is it maf ? or maby westgate valve just broke in 2 months ? very strange. all my valves work fine. exept one thats behind the engine i couldnot check it. but why every 3 day ? it has something to do with electronics.
