C-Class (W203) 2001-2007, C160, C180, C200, C220, C230, C240, C270, C280, C300, C320, C230K, C350, Coupe

anyone fix these codes before

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Old Nov 16, 2017 | 01:38 AM
  #51  
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Replace the SAM with a new part.
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Old Nov 16, 2017 | 09:35 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by knowbenz
When SAM detects open or out of spec resistance (wrong bulb) it will just shut down that circuit. If indeed the SAM is good, carriers are good, and bulbs are correct then you have a wiring issue.

If the input to SAM for brake lights which is coming in on CAN Bus was not there or cutting out you wouldn't get a bulb out message on the cluster. If the 3rd brake light functions normally then you also eliminate all inputs as a possibility

If you are confident the bulbs, SAM, Carriers are good then dig deeper into wiring, loose pins, high resistance, slight short to ground from rubbing through somewhere, loose ground, loose pins at SAM or the carriers. This entire drag shouldn't take more than 30 minutes tops.
Ill get to it this week end, i have went through all the wires pretty good did see anything. is there anyway to check a sam.
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Old Nov 16, 2017 | 09:40 PM
  #53  
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how do i tell what sam belongs in the car, also is there a relay for the sam?
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Old Nov 17, 2017 | 09:28 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Outlawlatemodel
how do i tell what sam belongs in the car, also is there a relay for the sam?
Check the part number on EPC. Rear SAM gets its main power feed from the distribution block next to the battery.
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Old Nov 17, 2017 | 09:30 AM
  #55  
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Serious question though, this thread has been going for almost 2 months. If you took it to a qualified shop and paid the one hour diagnostic time would it not be worth it to move on from this issue?
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Old Nov 20, 2017 | 12:29 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by knowbenz
Serious question though, this thread has been going for almost 2 months. If you took it to a qualified shop and paid the one hour diagnostic time would it not be worth it to move on from this issue?
Its ok you dont have to respond, again the nearest mb dealer I can take it to is over two hrs away, the mb dealer in town is well known for their scams.

last question is the epc number supposed to be the same as the sam.

Car is forsale 55k mile car
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Old Nov 20, 2017 | 02:51 PM
  #57  
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No
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Old Nov 20, 2017 | 10:58 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Outlawlatemodel
Its ok you dont have to respond, again the nearest mb dealer I can take it to is over two hrs away, the mb dealer in town is well known for their scams.

last question is the epc number supposed to be the same as the sam.

Car is forsale 55k mile car
Not trying to start any thing I was just curious. I know you mentioned the dealer before but I mean Mercedes independent shops in the area?

No, the numbers can be different. Part numbers change all the time when they update a part so there may be numerous versions. All the wiring is the same though, If you look at the diagram I posted it is for any 203. There is the break in 05/05 but that just applies to wiring of the lights, Brake light pin out is the same for any year
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Old Nov 20, 2017 | 11:50 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by knowbenz
Not trying to start any thing I was just curious. I know you mentioned the dealer before but I mean Mercedes independent shops in the area?

No, the numbers can be different. Part numbers change all the time when they update a part so there may be numerous versions. All the wiring is the same though, If you look at the diagram I posted it is for any 203. There is the break in 05/05 but that just applies to wiring of the lights, Brake light pin out is the same for any year

Thank you.
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 03:36 AM
  #60  
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Ah, the perils of buying a used vehicle. Especially ones serviced by owners or mechanics who don't know what they're doing.

Dumb question, but did you check your battery voltage? It's a bit of a long shot, but I would also check the voltage regulator as well. The VR is known to go bad on this car. When it failed on mine, my car was throwing all these weird unrelated errors in the dash, and various things in the car such as the transmission started acting funny. No ODB2 codes like yours though. Not saying this is the problem, but just throwing it out there. The SAMs do not like low voltage.

Speaking of the SAMs, were they PROPERLY replaced? They are known to cook if someone connects the ground (negative) cable of the car to the battery before the positive cable. For these cars, positive MUST be hooked up before negative. With the amount of errors your car is throwing, I'd almost be tempted to look at this in more detail, both front and rear units. Seems like way too many electrical problems to be caused by just 1 shorted wire. You mentioned you replaced a SAM at one point, correct? Did that fix any of the codes instantly, or are the codes the same before and after?
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 11:52 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by slammer111
Ah, the perils of buying a used vehicle. Especially ones serviced by owners or mechanics who don't know what they're doing.

Dumb question, but did you check your battery voltage? It's a bit of a long shot, but I would also check the voltage regulator as well. The VR is known to go bad on this car. When it failed on mine, my car was throwing all these weird unrelated errors in the dash, and various things in the car such as the transmission started acting funny. No ODB2 codes like yours though. Not saying this is the problem, but just throwing it out there. The SAMs do not like low voltage.

Speaking of the SAMs, were they PROPERLY replaced? They are known to cook if someone connects the ground (negative) cable of the car to the battery before the positive cable. For these cars, positive MUST be hooked up before negative. With the amount of errors your car is throwing, I'd almost be tempted to look at this in more detail, both front and rear units. Seems like way too many electrical problems to be caused by just 1 shorted wire. You mentioned you replaced a SAM at one point, correct? Did that fix any of the codes instantly, or are the codes the same before and after?
Replacing the rear sam didnt really do anything. When I bought this car from Miami Beach collection I was promised no check engine lights no problems nice 55k car, what I guy was a POS. As stated the local dealer is a scammer. I promise for you I know more about cars then most swapping a 1995 porsche 3.6 into my 82 911 and the list goes on and on. Thanks for the help,,, this car really does run well i believe the 55k but man cant believe how it fell a part, my c43 had 130k miles no major problems, this car WTF
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Old Nov 22, 2017 | 03:26 PM
  #62  
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You know more about cars than most! Yet you can't fix a simple brake lamp problem. After being spoon Fed technical info and wiring diagrams. Who you kidding here?
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Old Nov 23, 2017 | 11:41 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Outlawlatemodel
Replacing the rear sam didnt really do anything. When I bought this car from Miami Beach collection I was promised no check engine lights no problems nice 55k car, what I guy was a POS. As stated the local dealer is a scammer. I promise for you I know more about cars then most swapping a 1995 porsche 3.6 into my 82 911 and the list goes on and on. Thanks for the help,,, this car really does run well i believe the 55k but man cant believe how it fell a part, my c43 had 130k miles no major problems, this car WTF
Swapping engines is much different then diagnosing electrical issues.
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Old Nov 29, 2017 | 11:08 PM
  #64  
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E ON.

Last edited by Outlawlatemodel; Nov 29, 2017 at 11:49 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2017 | 11:23 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by knowbenz
Swapping engines is much different then diagnosing electrical issues.
Thanks knowbenz, putting latemodel 911 motors in early cars is an electrical night mare getting the dme to talk to the car and making it look factory. Again thank you for your help, I have appreciated it, My biggest problem all along has been time. I was looking for a quick fix with out going through hoopla. Hopefully this weekend I plan to check the signal going into and out of the rear sam(thank you for posting the wiring diagram i plan to use it). I am gonna put a new battery in to just in case. it does have a low reading code.Thank you again for all of your assistance. When I get time and figure it out and I will Ill I M you so you can share in the future.

If i have pissed you or anyone else I do apologize, I dont troll others bbs post and add negative comments so i dont expect others to do it to mine,
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Old Nov 30, 2017 | 12:08 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Outlawlatemodel
Thanks knowbenz, putting latemodel 911 motors in early cars is an electrical night mare getting the dme to talk to the car and making it look factory. Again thank you for your help, I have appreciated it, My biggest problem all along has been time. I was looking for a quick fix with out going through hoopla. Hopefully this weekend I plan to check the signal going into and out of the rear sam(thank you for posting the wiring diagram i plan to use it). I am gonna put a new battery in to just in case. it does have a low reading code.Thank you again for all of your assistance. When I get time and figure it out and I will Ill I M you so you can share in the future.

If i have pissed you or anyone else I do apologize, I dont troll others bbs post and add negative comments so i dont expect others to do it to mine,
Its all good. Keep in mind that once it recognizes a fault in the circuit it will stop supplying power to that circuit. You have to cycle the light switch to off position and cycle key as well
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