anyone fix these codes before
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
anyone fix these codes before
First I am not taking it to the dealer as many of you will tell me to do. If you dont have an answer please dont post.
codes
9123
b1089
9112
9355
1653
b1040
9023
b10c0
9143
this car has ti be the biggest POS ever built
codes
9123
b1089
9112
9355
1653
b1040
9023
b10c0
9143
this car has ti be the biggest POS ever built
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
Gonna make a lot of friends with a post like this.
Were those codes pulled with an SDS or generic scanner? It matters.
Where are the B codes from, not the M/E, so it matters what module they came from.
Need more info here to try and help. Did you get code descriptions?
Were those codes pulled with an SDS or generic scanner? It matters.
Where are the B codes from, not the M/E, so it matters what module they came from.
Need more info here to try and help. Did you get code descriptions?
#4
Super Member
there are a number of sites that can tell you what the codes are...
There is even one on this forum
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/gene...codes-dtc.html
another one is here:
http://obdii.pro/en/code/B1040
but all have a letter before the code so you have many non lettered codes. and only one of your B codes checks out.. So this is very puzzling
Wondering if there is a bus problem. what diving/ engine issues do you have? Do these return after you reset them?
So basically there are standard OBDII codes that all scanners can read but here are many reserved bits that manufacturers can use for whatever they want. That would be the difference between a generic and a Star System scanner.
There is even one on this forum
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/gene...codes-dtc.html
another one is here:
http://obdii.pro/en/code/B1040
but all have a letter before the code so you have many non lettered codes. and only one of your B codes checks out.. So this is very puzzling
Wondering if there is a bus problem. what diving/ engine issues do you have? Do these return after you reset them?
So basically there are standard OBDII codes that all scanners can read but here are many reserved bits that manufacturers can use for whatever they want. That would be the difference between a generic and a Star System scanner.
Last edited by efzauner; 09-23-2017 at 09:53 PM.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
alittle history I have owned c43's and other AMGs I bought this car sight unseen out of miami dealer said no code no damage and dash is lite up so the car has been sitting for 7 months (i know not your problem) Every time i get on these bbs about a mbz all anyone says is go to a dealer. been on here since 2008 and it never fails GO TO THE DEALER, So if you can imagine gets old. I quit visiting this bbs last time for the exact same reason. I once ask a silly question and got see a dealer. If i got to see a dealer why be on this bbs
my other name is outlaw latemodel couldnt get my pass word to work
efzauner I am using a generic star reader but seems to do a good
my other name is outlaw latemodel couldnt get my pass word to work
efzauner I am using a generic star reader but seems to do a good
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Benzallo (01-09-2021)
#7
Super Member
so looking more into this.. the B is body code. B1 indicates manufacturers code. Meaning not a standard OBD11 code. following some of the links i gave you or just googling the code seems to indicate that B1040 is a can bus error. B1089 seems to be transmission... could not find anything on the B10c0 code . If anyone has access to star system docs such as from alldatadiy you may be able to find more. I have it for my Rclass and none of your codes are listed.
check this: it says the 9143 code is a srs code... seems all of the 9000s are SRS codes.
http://benzbits.com/w203/srscodes.pdf
Good luck with this... but as you can see its not easy... but if you search diligently you can find out a number of things.
check this: it says the 9143 code is a srs code... seems all of the 9000s are SRS codes.
http://benzbits.com/w203/srscodes.pdf
Good luck with this... but as you can see its not easy... but if you search diligently you can find out a number of things.
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
alittle history I have owned c43's and other AMGs I bought this car sight unseen out of miami dealer said no code no damage and dash is lite up so the car has been sitting for 7 months (i know not your problem) Every time i get on these bbs about a mbz all anyone says is go to a dealer. been on here since 2008 and it never fails GO TO THE DEALER, So if you can imagine gets old. I quit visiting this bbs last time for the exact same reason. I once ask a silly question and got see a dealer. If i got to see a dealer why be on this bbs
my other name is outlaw latemodel couldnt get my pass word to work
efzauner I am using a generic star reader but seems to do a good
my other name is outlaw latemodel couldnt get my pass word to work
efzauner I am using a generic star reader but seems to do a good
You don't have to go to a dealer, but you need someone with an actual SDS or clone system, a local MB independent shop is a good start. Once you have a clear diagnostic, the repair path can be determined. When people tell everyone to go to a dealer, most of the time its because they've done the 'guesswork' repairs and realized it doesn't work on these cars. The systems are complex but proper diagnostics will save you time and money changing parts that aren't at fault.
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efzauner (09-24-2017)
#9
alittle history I have owned c43's and other AMGs I bought this car sight unseen out of miami dealer said no code no damage and dash is lite up so the car has been sitting for 7 months (i know not your problem) Every time i get on these bbs about a mbz all anyone says is go to a dealer. been on here since 2008 and it never fails GO TO THE DEALER, So if you can imagine gets old. I quit visiting this bbs last time for the exact same reason. I once ask a silly question and got see a dealer. If i got to see a dealer why be on this bbs
my other name is outlaw latemodel couldnt get my pass word to work
efzauner I am using a generic star reader but seems to do a good
my other name is outlaw latemodel couldnt get my pass word to work
efzauner I am using a generic star reader but seems to do a good
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
So your generic code reader is doing such a fine job that it doesn't provide descriptions? I can see why people tell you take it to the dealer. If you are going to come ask for help you should at least take the time to attempt to translate the codes and get descriptions. When you scan with a proper SDS you get manufacture specific codes, not generic BS. I've been doing this for a very long time and can't tell you a single generic code.
#11
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#14
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
scan code update
What is cinsidered a can?
[The fist codes are what i take is air bag
9103
resistance r12/13
driver airbag r12/5
pass r12/4
rr etr r12/7 -r12-4-r12/6
b1051==circuit 30 has under voltage 10.5
1044 winshield washer
I believe this is my light problem
b1047e4e2 short or open circuit
1050 e3e2 short or open circuit
1054 e3e4 short or open circuit
1055 e4e4 short or open circuit
1066 roof system
b10co N22B1 IN CAR TEMP
NO IDEA
b1653 Fault in can, communication with control unit DCM-rr
[The fist codes are what i take is air bag
9103
resistance r12/13
driver airbag r12/5
pass r12/4
rr etr r12/7 -r12-4-r12/6
b1051==circuit 30 has under voltage 10.5
1044 winshield washer
I believe this is my light problem
b1047e4e2 short or open circuit
1050 e3e2 short or open circuit
1054 e3e4 short or open circuit
1055 e4e4 short or open circuit
1066 roof system
b10co N22B1 IN CAR TEMP
NO IDEA
b1653 Fault in can, communication with control unit DCM-rr
#17
MBWorld Fanatic!
Sounds like you have an intermittent issue in the chassis/body CAN. Is there water on the floor of the vehicle? Often they get wet inside from leaks or clogged sunroof drains and it corrodes the harnesses and connectors on the bottom under the carpets.
The last one means the DCM (Door control module) wasn't present when tested, it should indicate which door. That, if it was shorting out, could be bringing down the CAN also. It only takes one module. Normally we have to start unplugging the suspect ones one at a time and see which one is doing the damage.
The last one means the DCM (Door control module) wasn't present when tested, it should indicate which door. That, if it was shorting out, could be bringing down the CAN also. It only takes one module. Normally we have to start unplugging the suspect ones one at a time and see which one is doing the damage.
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Sounds like you have an intermittent issue in the chassis/body CAN. Is there water on the floor of the vehicle? Often they get wet inside from leaks or clogged sunroof drains and it corrodes the harnesses and connectors on the bottom under the carpets.
The last one means the DCM (Door control module) wasn't present when tested, it should indicate which door. That, if it was shorting out, could be bringing down the CAN also. It only takes one module. Normally we have to start unplugging the suspect ones one at a time and see which one is doing the damage.
The last one means the DCM (Door control module) wasn't present when tested, it should indicate which door. That, if it was shorting out, could be bringing down the CAN also. It only takes one module. Normally we have to start unplugging the suspect ones one at a time and see which one is doing the damage.
#19
MBWorld Fanatic!
RR should be right rear. I'd pull the panel and check the modules in the door itself for corrosion/water intrusion.
You should be able to lift the door sill plastics and the carpets, and make sure nothing is wet or looks like it was wet at some point. Inspect carefully, it only takes a little corrosion to cause a LOT of problems.
I know you don't want to hear it, but a good Benz independent shop with a proper SDS can run test on the CAN bus and trace things down much quicker, they've also seen the pattern failures and know where to look first. If your time is free and you really want to solve it yourself, good on you, i'll try to help where I can, but in general, these issues are not fun to diagnose and even less fun to fix. It turns into replacing one bad part, then seeing which next part is bad. Can add up quickly, although good 203 parts are available used.
You should be able to lift the door sill plastics and the carpets, and make sure nothing is wet or looks like it was wet at some point. Inspect carefully, it only takes a little corrosion to cause a LOT of problems.
I know you don't want to hear it, but a good Benz independent shop with a proper SDS can run test on the CAN bus and trace things down much quicker, they've also seen the pattern failures and know where to look first. If your time is free and you really want to solve it yourself, good on you, i'll try to help where I can, but in general, these issues are not fun to diagnose and even less fun to fix. It turns into replacing one bad part, then seeing which next part is bad. Can add up quickly, although good 203 parts are available used.
#20
RR should be right rear. I'd pull the panel and check the modules in the door itself for corrosion/water intrusion.
You should be able to lift the door sill plastics and the carpets, and make sure nothing is wet or looks like it was wet at some point. Inspect carefully, it only takes a little corrosion to cause a LOT of problems.
I know you don't want to hear it, but a good Benz independent shop with a proper SDS can run test on the CAN bus and trace things down much quicker, they've also seen the pattern failures and know where to look first. If your time is free and you really want to solve it yourself, good on you, i'll try to help where I can, but in general, these issues are not fun to diagnose and even less fun to fix. It turns into replacing one bad part, then seeing which next part is bad. Can add up quickly, although good 203 parts are available used.
You should be able to lift the door sill plastics and the carpets, and make sure nothing is wet or looks like it was wet at some point. Inspect carefully, it only takes a little corrosion to cause a LOT of problems.
I know you don't want to hear it, but a good Benz independent shop with a proper SDS can run test on the CAN bus and trace things down much quicker, they've also seen the pattern failures and know where to look first. If your time is free and you really want to solve it yourself, good on you, i'll try to help where I can, but in general, these issues are not fun to diagnose and even less fun to fix. It turns into replacing one bad part, then seeing which next part is bad. Can add up quickly, although good 203 parts are available used.
That customer would be the thread starter. So first he gives vague generic codes, then posts some generic scanner results with vague descriptions, and you want him to diagnose a CAN problem
He even posts an under voltage code. Mercedes is no good with low voltage and I know you know that
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Why would you even start testing anything? We don't even know if there are any symptoms. We don't even know if the code is current. Every quick test I have ran has radom stored CAN codes so without symptoms or knowing if the code is current or stored I would suggest contacting the customer and asking what they came into the shop for is. The repair starts with getting information from the customer. The first thing they ask is what brought you in today? If the customer goes into the shop and just hands me a list of fault codes I'm still going to need to know what the complaint is.
That customer would be the thread starter. So first he gives vague generic codes, then posts some generic scanner results with vague descriptions, and you want him to diagnose a CAN problem
He even posts an under voltage code. Mercedes is no good with low voltage and I know you know that
That customer would be the thread starter. So first he gives vague generic codes, then posts some generic scanner results with vague descriptions, and you want him to diagnose a CAN problem
He even posts an under voltage code. Mercedes is no good with low voltage and I know you know that
Thanks for you help I appreciate it, I am not a novice all codes were cleared twice before I read the codes. The SRS light is on which I believe is the airbag and harness recall that was never done. The main problem is the brake lights stay. I do not flip cars this was to be my daily driver as I have owned many MBZ cars. At this point I just need the brake lights to work so I can sell it, unless magic happens and all the problems go away.
This a picture of my 82 911 with steel wide body and 94 twin plug motor complete with obd11 my daughter and i built
Full tube 675 HP race car we built
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
RR should be right rear. I'd pull the panel and check the modules in the door itself for corrosion/water intrusion.
You should be able to lift the door sill plastics and the carpets, and make sure nothing is wet or looks like it was wet at some point. Inspect carefully, it only takes a little corrosion to cause a LOT of problems.
I know you don't want to hear it, but a good Benz independent shop with a proper SDS can run test on the CAN bus and trace things down much quicker, they've also seen the pattern failures and know where to look first. If your time is free and you really want to solve it yourself, good on you, i'll try to help where I can, but in general, these issues are not fun to diagnose and even less fun to fix. It turns into replacing one bad part, then seeing which next part is bad. Can add up quickly, although good 203 parts are available used.
You should be able to lift the door sill plastics and the carpets, and make sure nothing is wet or looks like it was wet at some point. Inspect carefully, it only takes a little corrosion to cause a LOT of problems.
I know you don't want to hear it, but a good Benz independent shop with a proper SDS can run test on the CAN bus and trace things down much quicker, they've also seen the pattern failures and know where to look first. If your time is free and you really want to solve it yourself, good on you, i'll try to help where I can, but in general, these issues are not fun to diagnose and even less fun to fix. It turns into replacing one bad part, then seeing which next part is bad. Can add up quickly, although good 203 parts are available used.
Mainly I have been asking for others that have had similar problems what happen. Some say the same model doesnt have similar problems, well thats simply not true. Over the 25 years I have been working on cars there is usually consistency with the same problems with the same model cars.
Thanks again Joe Ill send you messages of what I find. As I have found out on this BBS that the only people in the universe that can fix a Mercedes is a certified Mercedes shop with an actual STAR reader. Thanks for your time, you my friend is what makes a BBS a cool place!
#25
MBWorld Fanatic!
Bunch of BS codes, resistance temp, whatever.
What the hell if actually WRONG with the car?
Ah I see brake lights.
Did you try disconnecting the switch on the pedal?
Did they stay on or go out....?
hint hint...
Also curious, what scanner are you using?
I've been wanting to pick up an iCarsoft unit...but
not sure how good they are.
What the hell if actually WRONG with the car?
Ah I see brake lights.
Did you try disconnecting the switch on the pedal?
Did they stay on or go out....?
hint hint...
Also curious, what scanner are you using?
I've been wanting to pick up an iCarsoft unit...but
not sure how good they are.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 10-02-2017 at 02:40 PM.
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Outlawlatemodel (10-02-2017)