Jay11

2002 C240 72700 miles, Dallas Texas

DASH FAULTS
ESP not available diagn./rig test
ABS Not available Diagn./Rig test
BAS Not available Diagn./Rig test
License plate check lamp
4 MALFUNCTIONS appear

All lights on the car work fine, trunk doesn't pop from remote nor does the rear curtain go up and down from dash button.
No CEL (see monitor status below) but iCarsoft reveals these codes, under:-

1-ESP
C1413 Road test:The driving test was not successful. DTC Stored
C1174 - N49 (Steering angle sensor) not inititalized. DTC Status : Fault indicator lamp on
C1410 Road test : Active DTC Status : Fault indicator lamp on

2-SAM-F-Signal acquisition and actuation
B1046 Component B12/2 (Refrigerant pressure sensor 1) of line to component has short circuit or open circuit.(Refrigerant temperature). or check coding refrigerant pressure sensor for component B12/2 (Refrigerant pressure and temperature sensor 1)

B1004 Component R2/2 (Left washer nozzle heater) and (or) R2/3 (Right washer nozzle heater) or the line to the components has a short circuit or open circuit or component R2/1 (heated windshield washer nozzle) and (or) R2/11 (washer nozzle hose heater) or the line to the components has a short circuit or open circuit.


3-REAR SAM-Rear Signal acquisition and a

B1093 Fault in CAN comm with control unit N69/1 (Left front door control unit). If fault occurs with no complaint reported and no malfunctions erase fault memore and perform a function check
DTC Status : Stored


4-C-AAC Convenience automatic air conditioner
B15A8 - Component M2/15 (Left and right footwell flaps actuatior) is stiff or blocked
DTC Status : Current and stored

B1360 Communication error of AC bus with component A32n1 (Blower regulator)
DTC status : Current

B1350 Communication error of AC bus with component B31/2 (Air humidity sensor)
DTC status : Stored

B1301 Communication error of AC bus with component sensor
DTC Status Current



Just before I set out on a 400 mile trip I decided to clear all these codes, then iCarsoft it at the trip's end and see what comes up again. Gassed up at Wally plus a can of Gumout multi system tune up. Cleared the codes and boom ESP, BAS, ABS started cycling on dash. I did the right/left wheel turn a couple of time but ESP persisted. The car drove the 400 miles excellently except it started sounding like bushes were worn out at every bump or rough section of the road. Before ESP,BAS,ABS faults it didn't make these noises.
I successfully tested ABS today in drizzling conditions.
I thought issues 1-4 or some of them were caused by a battery that's going out. There's no date markings on battery. Aesthetically the battery is mint, looks like a recent (1, 2...3 years?) install.

Car sat for 2 days, then drove it 5 minutes to AZ at night (with headlights, radio, heater on); they said battery was only 55% charged so they could not even test alternator/starter. Next day it idled for 30 minutes. Then drove to O'reilly (without heater, radio and headlights being on.) Battery, alternator and starter tested AOK. A day later I stopped at O'reilly (after driving for 20 minutes with lights, heater and radio on), they said the battery was just slightly low @12.4V, just needed a little more charging, that alternator & starter were fine. Now I am a bit confused. Is the alternator ok or not?

When stopped the car idle is just not very smooth, I don't want to say rough but just not smooth.
My main questions are where do I start all the above codes and the not smooth idle?

Other questions are,
How do you know about the fault so you can report, MIL?
How do you perform a function check?

What is the difference between stored and current in DTC Status?

insame1

First thing I would do is change the battery. if that didn't work I would start look at the alternator and connections.

tjts1

DO NOT CHANGE THE BATTERY!

First thing to do is go into the secret menu while driving and monitor the voltage. It should be maintaining above 14v with the engine running. I suspect you have worn down brushes in the voltage regulator and the low voltage is causing all these issues to pop up.

insame1

Why not? do you know how old the battery is? I agree checking the voltage is a good place to start but..... If you know so much then you should know that battery cause tons of issues. Also I didint say CHANGE YOUR BATTERY NOW. I said that is what I would do.

tjts1

If he has a charging issue replacing the battery won't do him any good, it's a waste of money.The only way to determine if he has a voltage regulator related changing problem, is to drive the car and monitor the voltage. The test done at the store won't catch an intermittent or marginal voltage regulator. The voltage regulator brushes inside the alternator are a normal wear item that must be replaced periodically.

Jay11

What I gather is
1-Put a meter on the battery, when the car is not running and when it's idling
2-While driving use the secret menu, observe voltage

Thereafter post the results. thanx every one!

Jay11

Before starting I was observing 11.99, 12.00 to 12.08
Cranking dropped to 10.26
Idling 14.49
Turn off engine 12.6
What do you make of these numbers?

Here are 2 short videos, stationary and driving around

Driving around

C230 Sport Coup

Waiting for answer here....
so many codes, hmmm...
how many CCA did they come up with at Oreily when they tested the battery?
Anything under 500 and I'd get rid of it. It's like 900 new.

Old batteries eventually become a giant resistor as they slowly decrease their capacity, and
can fry other things and low battery can cause all kinds of havoc on 203 series.
All this being said, have you checked for oil in the ECU wicking from cam sensors?

Also any big storms lately? Any water incursion? I've had many wierd problems when water was involved.
I've since disconnected my sunroof motor, it finally gave up, but I discovered that it was what had been leaking
all these years too, as it apparently was not closing tightly enough.
My last time with it, I closed it with allen key, nice and tight and no more leaks.

I'd tend to think the alternator brushes would still be ok at 72K miles. They typically last at least 100K. Mine went 130K, and I replaced before failure, which was a good thing since it was down to nubs.

Jay11

Installed a new battery, a lot of these codes went away, all by themselves. There's no CEL. The ESP BAS ABS faults are still cycling on dash, gives 3 faults when I turn off car, was 4 with old battery.

The codes read are
ESP - Fault 1
OCP-Overhead Fault 1
AAC_Automatic air conditioning Fault 1
E-Call (USA)-Telematic system
C1174 N49 (Steering angle sensor) Steering angle sensor is not initialized
C1 410 MIL on&Stored & current Road test active
(When I attempt to clear this code I get System pass No event codes detected. )
C1 400 Road test. N49 (Steering angle sensor)
C1 413 Road test. The driving test was not successful
There's also
N1 250 MIL ON&Stored
GPS signal could not be received over the max permissible driving distance

I did the steering lock to lock about 4...5 times through out the day, no change.
AC Cools ok. However, it seems the flaps are stuck open to the feet. The windshield defrost works ok. The blower also produces high sounds like a jet if turned on to position 2 and up, and then you hear it's speed taper off, normalize come back to say 2 or 3, if you will.

Here are pics of the new battery AC voltage test, and DC both at IDLE. Any thoughts? Is this alternator ok?

AC IDLE flips between 30.6 and 30.7






DC IDLE

C230 Sport Coup

Arrgh. Was hoping to read you'd fixed it! Maddening!!!
BTW my floor flap gave out years ago.
Always blow on the floor.
Feet cook in winter, freeze in summer.
Love to fix it, but oh man, it's like 16 hours of labor to tear the whole inside of the car apart, and once you're in there...
well better replace ALL the motors and flaps....so it can get real expensive.

It's sounding like the steering angle sensor is caput.
OR someone removed the steering wheel, and didn't reset it properly.
I posted on removing the steering wheel somewhere around here and a whole slew of documents.
Go find it! Might be in the W164 forum, but the process is the same.

When you remove the steering angle sensor, you are supposed to like wind it to certain point on reinstall.
Otherwise, replace it with new (or used).
I was very concerned on removing the wheel for a long time, because of the warnings in the documents about
not doing it correctly would permanently damage the steering angle sensor "clockspring"
Now that I've done it a few time, I see it's not such a big deal. Maybe pull the wheel and see whats what.
Might just be a bad connection. Everything sort of snaps together, clean the contacts with a pencil eraser and make sure the clockspring is set correctly.

My girl has a bad habit of snapping off the gear change stalk on her 06 ML with the 7 speed. Twice now.
And I did pull my wheel once, to repair the switches attached to the airbag, you know, like for the MFD.
Which btw, cold solder joints. DIdn't need to buy the switches.

"Overhead" is the piece that contains the interior lights and switches.
Remove it for any reason and it throws codes, and or low battery.
Low or dead battery will cause a plethora of codes upon restart simply because the computer can't talk
to all the modules when the battery is low. It's constantly runnning diagnostics in the background, which is why
even with a new battery, it will go dead after being parked a few weeks without running.

I think you need a genuine SDS printout. It will tell you EXACTLY which modules are bad.
In your case, could it be the ABS pump? Or a wheel sensor?
Or ESP sensor? The fact that you are getting ABS BAS and ESP tells me something major is afoot,
but did you check all the fuses? Steering angle only throws ESP, not ABS.
Bad wheel sensor will cause ABS.

iCarsoft...great. but not SDS. I had a code recently, and it said unknown.
Turned out be a failed 'wastegate' reciculating air pump valve. But iCarsoft could not tell me that.
Very disappointing.

Jay11

It looks like the time is nigh for a shop SDS diagnosis. Can anyone recommend a good shop or 2/3 in Dallas TX area?

I now have an Autel All systems unit, have cleared all the errors except 2 ESP faults C1410 and C1174, pic below. Does this pic confirm to you that the angle sensor is an issue, I see it clearly mentioned?


Next for ABS I want to check wheel sensors, not sure what to look for but I will watch some ut vids see what I should look out for.

Re-checked all fuses yesterday, compared with wifey's 03, all match. This car, 02 model, does not have a brake light switch, so I am selling one $12 bux shipped. I don't mind to open up steering wheel angle sensor and see what, especially if I can confirm that is source. I have read of other people with this problem having cars stuck in P. Currently everything works without a hitch including ABS as far as I can tell. Does this issue get progressively bad to the point where eventually car will be stuck in P, if not resolved sooner than later?

It seems the car is stuck in ESP test mode and the Autel does not have an option to start/end the test. I have been told that SDS does. Is there a way to end this test mode if I don't have access to SDS?

C230 Sport Coup

I was thinking of you the other day.
There are a ton of fuses related to the ESP and ABS.
Did you check them all?
If you don't have the fuse daigram, just google it.

Considering it keeps beetching about the steering angle sensor, I'd at least give it a try.
How much are they?
You did the lock to lock 3 times thing, and then turn off the engine and restart right?

C230 Sport Coup

The ESP test thing....there's a thing where you hold the trip odometer knob down for like 50 seconds
then, push one of the steering wheel switches to access the test mode,
try searching on dyno mode.
It usually resets after turning off the engine and restarting.

I tried driving with it once, but it seemed the automatic trans just quit working at some point, the software
isn't complete enough, but guys with manual transmissions had a ball driving with it off completely.
There's a good thread on the angle sensor (SAS) that right at the top of the forum this moment.
You're probably better off with a used one, with the old part number.

Jay11

FIXED!
Rueney suggested the procedure below, worked like a charm on 2nd try. I really appreciate everyone's help.

C230 Sport Coup

What and where did you get this? I'm guessing over on benzworld?

Jay11

Courtesy of Rudeney.

Sharmila

Abs,esp unavailable diagnostic rig test. This is indicating in the display how do i solve the problem......

Russell Ormerod

That's what happens when you activate road test and you have no clue what you doing.