krazzdav

Yes the test is still not accurate.
The only way to tell for sure would be to remove the valve cover and watch the valves move while turning the engine over to ensure they are all closed for the respective cylinder. Being the cam is out of alignment and compression low I am pretty sure they are not closed.
Unfortunately the only way to tell if there is further engine damage causing no/low compression is to have both cams aligned.

You can TRY and realign both cams with the current parts you have (not sure if you can) then rerun a compression test prior to buying anything. A leakdown test is typically done if everything is in alignment and have low compression. It will then tell you which valve (intake/exhaust) is bad, blow-by from rings, blown head gasket or cracked head/cylinder.

Being that there is no resistance like a valve hitting a cylinder more than likely the only issue you have is from the cam being out of whack.

kad783

I don't have much experience, so how much resistance would it be? I feel like 30% of the time it's really easy to turn over the engine, and 70% of the time there is a good amount of resistance but still not too hard to turn over. Now that I removed the intercooler pipe.
I even attached a long pipe to my socket wrench to make it easy to turn over the engine.

krazzdav

i think you should be ok; when you turn it over you would want to keep the plugs out; 2 of your cylinders did have some compression in them which could attribute some of the resistance if you happened to leave the plugs in.

If it was a valve hitting a piston it typically would be significantly harder just for the few degrees the piston remained at the top of the cylinder.

Another reason I think you should be ok with the valves is from other people's experience having the same happen to them with the cam adjuster breaking--- I didn't see anyone mention they had to do a valve/head job after fixing the timing issue.

The only question you need to answer is how far into the repair do you want to go now that you are at this point.

1. just replace the defective cam adjuster (suspected fault) --- i recommend at least taking the cam adjuster off prior to ordering any parts to confirm this failed. You will need to follow parts of the procedure for timing chain replacement to take it off and hold cams in place.
2. replace cam adjuster and new gears for both cams
3. replace cam adjuster, new gears, along with complete chain replacement including tensioner and plastic chain guides

If it was myself I would do the complete job after verifying the adjuster failed. I would also see if I could somehow align the cam with the existing adjuster and run another compression test prior to purchasing any parts if at all possible. The unfortunate thing is until you get the cams aligned again you won't know 100% for sure if there is more damage by running another compression test.

krazzdav

fyi these should be the compression values (to be done when cams are aligned)--

proper procedure -- https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post4884597
another member had these results https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post4893461
from MB WIS
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post6994724

kad783

Hey,

I removed the right cam adjuster and opened it by removing the screws but everything looks good, don't see anything broken.

krazzdav

hmmm.....well something gave way making the cam lose it's alignment....maybe internally the adjuster malfunctioned? I am not familiar enough how it actually works.

What I would try and do is put it back together aligning the cams properly to the crank TDC mark and then with everything aligned run another compression test (you don't need to do a leak down test). I am suspecting the compression test will come out ok.
The cam adjuster has an alignment mark on it too correct? I am thinking the cam and adjuster marks wont match but what you want to do is have the cam marks aligned properly. If this is the case where the adjuster is misaligned to the cam, but compression comes out ok when the cam is aligned, I would then replace that adjuster and do a full chain, guide replacement etc.

Let me know how it comes out with the alignment marks.

kad783

So I opened up the left cam adjuster too just to make sure nothing was wrong with it, and it looked good too.
I noticed the right cam has damage where the cam adjuster attaches to it, as seen in the pictures attached.

krazzdav

Well that is terrible! It almost looks like the cam adjuster wasn't even bolted to the cam and was spinning separately. Notice the groove all the way around the cam. So the question would be why....

So now you have the extra cost of sourcing at least 1 used cam from a junked car (most cost effective-- maybe even that cam adjuster) or upgrading and buying an entire new cam/cam set. (Kleeman? Maybe a eurocharged tune along with it?)

the other thing i would be concerned is where that metal went. Pull out the filter and check for metal shavings in the oil and filter. The oil where the cams were rub it in your fingers...is it rough from metal shavings? Rub the head where oil is sitting---is that rough? If you were to save the car i would think you would have to do a minimum of 3 oil changes and through the pan (not syphoning)

So.... how much is that $4k car really worth to you to get back going? If you have space you can make that much money selling and listing all the parts.

kad783

Yah true looks bad, I will have to think about what I want to do next.
Might just do a part out.

krazzdav

Well i give you props continuing this far until you found part of the problem and tearing into the motor and testing as much as you did.

granted there will be a lot of metal in the oil i would have a hard time giving up on the car if it was in good shape and would find a lower mileage car from a wrecking yard or ebay to source another cam and adjuster. You could leave the chain alone and just get it back running since you know where it failed and the sprockets looked good. Definitely replace the failed cam, adjuster and oil (until no shavings felt or seen glittering in light... plus an extra change or 2)...rockauto has good prices on filters

BGreco

First time here. Looks like a lot of people with a lot of knowledge about MB cars. I have a 2005 C230 Kompressor. Bought it at 50k miles. It has been a great car until this week. has 330k miles on it. It has started without fail every day for the last 10 years I have owned it. However, the other night I got in it and it wouldn't start. A few light crank turns and then nothing. All lights inside and outside shown bright and normal. Tried to jump it but no go. Waited an hour or so and tried again. Started right up. drove home without any other issues. The next day it started right up again. In trying to get it to a mechanic it would loose power and then gain full power again. When I arrived at the shop it wouldn't shift into park. When I shut the car off I was able to get it in park no problem. That the staring and shifting issue happened at the same time could it be an electrical problem and not a transmission issue? Respect all of you who may be able to shed some light on this. I love this car and am not ready to give it up is the problem may be fixable for a reasonable price. OH, check engine light is on but I haven't checked the code yet. Will buy a scanner tomorrow. The check engine light goes on and off every few months due to a failing O2 sensor so I'm not sure if it is a new issue or not.

Tell me if there is a better thread I should be on. Thanks

krazzdav

common issue for no start is the crank sensor --- let it cool off and starts back up (usually doesn't trigger check engine or codes either); not sure about your shifting issue

kad783

Hey Krazzdav I put one of those endoscope cameras into the spark plug hole, on the 3rd hole where I had no compression I got this picture, top of the piston is broken.
Thanks again for all your help! have a nice holiday!

Johnnyjohnjohn

I Have the same problem can't find the solution Im thinking fuel leak somewhere because it smells like fue sometimes