C-Class (W203) 2001-2007, C160, C180, C200, C220, C230, C240, C270, C280, C300, C320, C230K, C350, Coupe

New Intake Man

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Old Jun 8, 2019 | 10:44 AM
  #1  
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2006 C230 Sport
New Intake Man

Well I got the check engine light and P2006 error code on the M272. Which typically means a flap is broken or stuck. So I'm probably going to be replacing the intake manifold. I know I need the one with the metal actuator arm. Any advise on where to get a good one?
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Old Jun 9, 2019 | 12:59 PM
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I have good news and bad news. It's basically the same news.

Imho, replace the intake with a new MB intake. The inner flaps are also of inferior quailty. They have been know to deteriorate.
So, get a new MB intake, and plan on replacing it after another ~10 years. Imho, that's not horrible, especially for a DYI job.

Good Luck!
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Old Jun 9, 2019 | 03:21 PM
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A valid point. I'm 60 years old, so the part might very well out-last me if not the car. I just can't resist the urge to hot-rod something if I can : )
I guess I'll replace the MAF sensor while I'm at it. I've got prices on-line. Tomorrow I'll check with the dealership. Maybe they'll tell me the gasket is attached to the manifold now for ease of install.

Last edited by 2006C230V6; Jun 9, 2019 at 06:39 PM.
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Old Jun 9, 2019 | 06:28 PM
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Pierberg unit is under $500.
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Old Jun 9, 2019 | 06:52 PM
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To the OP. Make sure you rescan for codes. I’m a Mercedes Benz specialist and can tell you this........ intake manifold flap codes WILL NOT turn your check engine light on. There will be a code but no CEL. The plastic pieces for the swirl flaps and the intake runners will come apart and break.
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Old Jun 10, 2019 | 02:24 PM
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I've decided to take it to a repair shop for a second opinion. The dealerships wanted $1000 for the manifold, and $400 for the MAF sensor. They did say the manifold has been upgraded four times over the years, so that would be good. But if it does need to be replaced I'll probably go with the Pierberg unit or similar.

From what I'm seeing here, even it the manifold is not the problem it may be wise to have it replaced, as they seem to cause some serious issues when they finally break.

Last edited by 2006C230V6; Jun 10, 2019 at 02:26 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2019 | 08:56 AM
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The least expensive Pierberg unit I could find was $589. I saw other new units for like $250. Is the Pierberg unit that much better?
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Old Jun 17, 2019 | 04:00 PM
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The closest new intake manifold I could find that wasn't at a dealership was three days away. So while I'm waiting for it to arrive I decided to clean the MAF sensor and throttle body. The MAF looked good, but I found a lot of dirt and oil inside the plastic elbow piece that fits between the MAFS and the TB. And when I say dirt, I don't mean fine black soot, I mean grains of dirt that I could feel between my fingers. And it appears to be coming from the hose that leads from that piece to the back of the cylinder head. There was lot's of dirt and oil from the entrance point into the bottom of throttle body. None above that point. I would think that at some point maybe the hose was left disconnected. If the engine would still run in that configuration. However it was connected well before I removed it yesterday.
I'm having an independent garage install the manifold, so I'll be interested to hear his thoughts on the situation.
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Old Jun 19, 2019 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 2006C230V6
The closest new intake manifold I could find that wasn't at a dealership was three days away. So while I'm waiting for it to arrive I decided to clean the MAF sensor and throttle body. The MAF looked good, but I found a lot of dirt and oil inside the plastic elbow piece that fits between the MAFS and the TB. And when I say dirt, I don't mean fine black soot, I mean grains of dirt that I could feel between my fingers. And it appears to be coming from the hose that leads from that piece to the back of the cylinder head. There was lot's of dirt and oil from the entrance point into the bottom of throttle body. None above that point. I would think that at some point maybe the hose was left disconnected. If the engine would still run in that configuration. However it was connected well before I removed it yesterday.
I'm having an independent garage install the manifold, so I'll be interested to hear his thoughts on the situation.
I recommend getting a quality rebuilt manifold or new. I replaced the broken arm on my 2007 about a year ago, with the kit that has the aluminum arm, and new actuator. It lasted about 9 months and the swirl flaps broke inside the manifold and I had to pull the manifold and do it again. I went with a rebuilt unit from RMT: https://rebuildmastertech.com/merced...et-2721402401/ It is not difficult to replace the manifold, it is just tedious, as there are a lot of things to remove in the process.
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Old Jun 20, 2019 | 02:05 PM
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I looked at a lot of different options. The prices on new units were all comparable other than the Pierberg and dealership parts. So I finally decided to just go with the closest supplier to get the car back on the road as soon as possible. I found one in Houston, two shipping days away. It has the name Lonestar HL30 stenciled into it which I guess is the brand. Maybe it's made in Texas or more likely Mexico. I am having an independent shop do the install, so I'll post if they have any interesting comments about it.
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Old Feb 19, 2020 | 01:14 PM
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Where exactly did you get it from in Houston? I need one.
Originally Posted by 2006C230V6
I looked at a lot of different options. The prices on new units were all comparable other than the Pierberg and dealership parts. So I finally decided to just go with the closest supplier to get the car back on the road as soon as possible. I found one in Houston, two shipping days away. It has the name Lonestar HL30 stenciled into it which I guess is the brand. Maybe it's made in Texas or more likely Mexico. I am having an independent shop do the install, so I'll post if they have any interesting comments about it.
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Old Feb 21, 2020 | 07:21 PM
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On my maintenance records I have the supplier listed as Lonestar. The same name stenciled on the part. I can get their phone number for you tomorrow.
If you remove the secondary air pump you can see the little arms that tend to break with time. You might be able to just repair of replace them.
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Old Feb 24, 2020 | 02:02 PM
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Or just dump all the crappy flaps inside the manifold. So that no broken plastic ends up jamming a valve open! Absolute poor quality design!
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Old Feb 25, 2020 | 03:32 PM
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Man, we had our ML350 engine out, balance shaft, intake manifold and a bunch of other stuff
replaced at the same time. Cheaper to get it all done at once.
Potato chip flaps were completely gone! But compression was ok.
We got lucky.
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Old Mar 1, 2020 | 11:48 AM
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Agreed. Too much complexity for a small amount of extra performance. Although I admit I did notice the difference when I had the intake replaced on the M272, and it was a pleasant difference. But since I started driving the BMW i3 EV as my main transportation everything ICE powered seems unnecessarily complicated.
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