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Supercharger rough on idle is a worn internal coupler.
Another year at most and it's definitely getting a rebuild. It's discernible when listening but could be worse
Originally Posted by 112233
Regarding your noise on load, after I changed the front lambda I got a rough, clunky engine noise under load 2000-3000 rpm which is independent from the engine revs (M111), only on warm engine . No idea whatsoever.
Do I have a chance to diagnose it without STAR? Spark plugs looks more lean since the Lambda change. It was a nightmare to get the Lambda out, totally seized.
I'm not an expert! However, if the front lambda was nasty, sounds like you might now be experiencing the same issue.
The other lambda isn't expensive (got a Bosch for well under 100eur) so I would definitely replace that too first, and see if it helps.
Could also get a reading with a regular OBD tester and check for codes. A code indicating running lean (or something similar) would point to the same issue - a wacky sensor causing overfeeding of fuel, which cat then has to burn, putting it at risk.
Forgot to mention but since I was running rich, fuel efficiency was horrid. If it's up in comparison to your baseline by some liters per 100km, another clear sign.
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Listening to SC with a screwdriver, those vanes thrashing around inside do make a racket, but I
don't think thats abnomal. I thought mine had siezed. Actually it was the alternator.
I found one online with 79K original miles off an SLK for $250 delivered (it was a yard and they posted a pic of the
Odo) before I knew it was the alternator. So I replaced it anyway with new oil, kept the old (2nd one)
as a spare along with the alternator. Much easier to access alternator with SC out of the way anyway.
I never had any problems with the 02 sensors, since I just replaced them as suggested by Mercedes at 100K miles.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Jun 21, 2024 at 02:22 AM.
Still think this is the best system in the car industries. The placement is in the right spot where you have to look at. The information is enough and no TMI. It gets activated when you drive slow and has a side sensor to protect your mirror.
In the vid you can hear the play in the coupler if you wiggle the supercharger pulley with your hand. You can get new ones from ebay 10-20$.
Listening to SC with a screwdriver, those vanes thrashing around inside do make a racket, but I
don't think thats abnomal. I thought mine had siezed. Actually it was the alternator.
I found one online with 79K original miles off an SLK for $250 delivered (it was a yard and they posted a pic of the
Odo) before I knew it was the alternator. So I replaced it anyway with new oil, kept the old (2nd one)
as a spare along with the alternator. Much easier to access alternator with SC out of the way anyway.
Good to know. I've had some battery issues last winter so that's actually something to keep in mind
I recall reading that a bad A/C compressor can also make some similar noises, but don't quote me on that
Originally Posted by C230 Sport Coup
I never had any problems with the 02 sensors, since I just replaced them as suggested by Mercedes at 100K miles.
Did you ever get oil to the wiring harness? My front o2 sensor was flooded
Originally Posted by 112233
Still think this is the best system in the car industries. The placement is in the right spot where you have to look at. The information is enough and no TMI. It gets activated when you drive slow and has a side sensor to protect your mirror.
Yes! It's a great design. A bit retro, simplistic and unintrusive yet functional. Merc got that thing perfected me thinks, who needs cameras
Originally Posted by 112233
In the vid you can hear the play in the coupler if you wiggle the supercharger pulley with your hand. You can get new ones from ebay 10-20$.
Will test, thanks
Last edited by CL203 from HEL; Jun 21, 2024 at 11:53 AM.
Reason: more replies
Mine still my everyday driver pretty much with me doing a 150K service on it now.
Trying to figure out what struts to put on it as it needs them but dont want it too low?
Needs most of the suspension pieces up front.
Also what is the best way to get camber adjustment in the rear as it has too much negative camber in the rear.
Mine still my everyday driver pretty much with me doing a 150K service on it now.
Trying to figure out what struts to put on it as it needs them but dont want it too low?
Needs most of the suspension pieces up front.
Also what is the best way to get camber adjustment in the rear as it has too much negative camber in the rear.
Does your tire wear uneven? There are adjustable control arms available.
For the look, I added wheel spacers and changed the spring support rubber to the thickest one.
Does your tire wear uneven? There are adjustable control arms available.
For the look, I added wheel spacers and changed the spring support rubber to the thickest one.
Ya its wearing the tires on the inside, worse on the right than the left.
Do you have a link for the adjustable arms?
"....what is the best way to get camber adjustment in the rear as it has too much negative camber in the rear."
THAT’S RIGHT - THERE IS ONLY FRONT & REAR TOE “DIRECTIONAL ADJUSTMENT” EX FACTORY !
Front Camber & Caster along with rear Camber has been deleted.
All to do with ever increasing speed of new car assembly lines - STOPPING TO SET / ADJUST CAMBER / CASTER IS NO LONGER AN OPTION.
Now it is set to suit SHOWROOM HEIGHT conditions !
ONUS NOW BACK ON OWNERS - To fund costly, premature tire wear.
Yet adjustment is essential - encountering in day to day commuting - high cambered roads with excess passenger side edge wear. Extra load carrying or altering suspension height. Fitting wide profile tires and now nothing to adjust / compensate for curb knock damage !
K-MAC has the experience of resolving OEM suspension shortcomings since 1964. Manufacturing Front and Rear kits - AUDI to VOLVO and to suit all Mercedes Benz models 1968 to 2024.
K-MAC Front & Rear Camber / Caster kits are “Bolt-On” - No special tools or time consuming need for control arm removal to install.
SEE SPOILER
Spoiler
W203 ALL including AMG:
FRONT ADJUSTER KITS:
CAMBER (ONLY) #502216-1i $345 (Both Sides)
(less cost then 1 Hi-Performance Tire). CAMBER & CASTER #502216K $480 (Both Sides)
Both above kits - no special tools or need for control arm removal.
Camber & Caster kits replace the “4 main highest wearing” bushes at the same time. Unique patented design allows ultimate adjustment - single wrench direct on alignment rack UNDER LOAD.
The forward facing Thrust arm (Caster adjustable) bushes replace the OEM soft rubber bushes with Mono ball / Self aligning (significantly improving brake and steering response).
REAR SUSPENSION:
REPLACEMENT UPPER ARMS Turnbuckle adjustable for CAMBER (plus extra Toe included) #501526-1M $595 (Both Sides)
REPLACEMENT LOWER ARM “INNER BUSHES”
CAMBER (& EXTRA TOE included)
#501926J $380 (Both Sides) 2004-2007 (Check 51mm diam OEM lower arm inner bushes)
RE ABOVE KITS Lower arm - Easier to install (no arm removal)
- Significantly easier to adjust (single wrench on alignment rack under load).
Unlike “Upper arms” - Retaining important clearance top of tire to outer fender when wanting to resolve inner edge tire wear.
ALSO MANUFACTURE
#501528K $480 - UPRATED BUSHINGS for the ‘6’ rear multi link arms. Less twitch, flex, loss of traction. Especially when applying power to lane change / overtake (#501528-1K AMG models)
DHL Express Air Worldwide $40 one kit ($20 each extra)
AUDI to VOLVO - Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings (and costs) Since 1964 !
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Originally Posted by CL203 from HEL
Did you ever get oil to the wiring harness? My front o2 sensor was flooded
NO! Crap, I think if memory serves me correctly, oil coming from the cam sensors.
You will need to remove the entire wiring harness and soak it to get all the oil out.
I guess they never put the pigtails on sensors that was a free service item thing.
Lots of info here in the forum about it.
I'm potentially picking up a C230K coupe next weekend. I'm hoping the maintenance is easier on my wallet and sanity than my w220 when I first bought it.
NO! Crap, I think if memory serves me correctly, oil coming from the cam sensors.
You will need to remove the entire wiring harness and soak it to get all the oil out.
I guess they never put the pigtails on sensors that was a free service item thing.
Lots of info here in the forum about it.
It was enough to solder the copper wires together and put in some cotton wool in front of the lambda connector in the harness to stop the oil going into the lambda sensor wire. Clean the connectors to the ECU and camshaft sensor.
CLK320 (C209), C230 Sport Coupé (CL203), Chrysler Crossfire Coupé Ltd
Hi Folks. My first post on this thread. Just picked up a silver, 2007, C230 Sport Coupe (C203?) with 99,500km on the clock. It's got the 2.5 litre, V6 motor. It's great, but takes quite a while to get up to temperature (+/- 80C) so looks like a replacement thermostat. Couldn't believe the quote I got (for just the part) from a local M-B dealer. I thought he was trying to sell me a whole new engine! Then I see what you get for your money. What happened to the simple thermostat replacement that I used to do in my youth? OK, that was a long time ago.....!
Hi Folks. My first post on this thread. Just picked up a silver, 2007, C230 Sport Coupe (C203?) with 99,500km on the clock. It's got the 2.5 litre, V6 motor. It's great, but takes quite a while to get up to temperature (+/- 80C) so looks like a replacement thermostat. Couldn't believe the quote I got (for just the part) from a local M-B dealer. I thought he was trying to sell me a whole new engine! Then I see what you get for your money. What happened to the simple thermostat replacement that I used to do in my youth? OK, that was a long time ago.....!
90 VW Corrado g60, 07 New Beetle Vert triple white & 09 Escalade ESV Plat LOL!
Welcome from SoCal, back at ya with first post. The dealer price includes all the amenities, latte, pastries & upkeep cost for the architecture & landscape.
If you’ve got the part number and can wait a day or two, order online from a known, reputable supplier. Beware of counterfeit eBay & Amazon parts snuck in from overseas suppliers.
CLK320 (C209), C230 Sport Coupé (CL203), Chrysler Crossfire Coupé Ltd
Many thanks Dave, Pete. I do have the M-B part number on the quote that they emailed me, so I will be wary of "cheap imitations".
My car is definitely a C230 according to the plate on the tail-gate, but the registration document refers to the "Series Name" being CL203. See some pix attached.
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
You have the 05+ styling upgrades, and no "Kompressor" badge on the back, so
you must have the 2.5L 6 cylinder, 06-07, correct?
Yes, CL203 delineates the coupe from the sedan and station wagon.
The station wagon is referred to as the "T" model and is S203.
Thanks for posting! Have any interior photos?
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Aug 1, 2024 at 03:17 PM.
CLK320 (C209), C230 Sport Coupé (CL203), Chrysler Crossfire Coupé Ltd
Originally Posted by C230 Sport Coup
You have the 05+ styling upgrades, and no "Kompressor" badge on the back, so
you must have the 2.5L 6 cylinder, 06-07, correct?
Yes, CL203 delineates the coupe from the sedan and station wagon.
The station wagon is referred to as the "T" model and is S203.
Thanks for posting! Have any interior photos?
Very useful info, many thanks! Yes, I have the 2.5 litre, V6 petrol engine. No interior pix at the moment but I will organise some soon.
Sound off CL203 owners! How many coupeys do we have left on the forum?
I got mine this last year after my previous car got totaled, so far ive decked the block reseated and replaced all the valves rebuilt the supercharger, replaced the clutch, replaced all the front suspension bushings, and am now in the process of replacing all the fluids. Its been great for me, its also my first manual so Ive also had tons of fun learning how to drive well.
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
Originally Posted by an6dk
I got mine this last year after my previous car got totaled, so far ive decked the block reseated and replaced all the valves rebuilt the supercharger, replaced the clutch, replaced all the front suspension bushings, and am now in the process of replacing all the fluids. Its been great for me, its also my first manual so Ive also had tons of fun learning how to drive well.
Minus the manual trans repair, thats my laundy list of stuff I would need to do to get it
perfect plus new suspension to replace worn out coilovers.
Do you have to pull the engine to deck the block?
Minus the manual trans repair, thats my laundy list of stuff I would need to do to get it
perfect plus new suspension to replace worn out coilovers.
Do you have to pull the engine to deck the block?
fortunately my block was still true enough that I was able to deck it with a giant lapping block on the top. If I actually needed to take off a lot I definitely would have wanted to pull it because when you have the head off pulling the block isnt bad. But if your block still has good flatness you can get away with just using a lapping plate and resurface it. And to get the valves out youll also need a special tool that you can find the number for on WIS. I ended up making it but maybe you can use a non specific valve compressor/
There is a 2003 Coupe with 140,000 miles on it. The ad is on Facebook marketplace and the car is located in Chapel Hill, NC. The forum won't allow me to post a link.
It has a manual transmission and leather seats. I don't need another car, so I thought I would pass this one along in case someone is interested in joining the coupe club.
https://www.facebook.com/share/2ttp7M7zFpb2kA6T/
Last edited by KevinH2000; Sep 13, 2024 at 10:31 AM.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
