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I pulled the front splash shield off to work on my alternator and found that some coolant had collected on the shield. I took these photos of the water pump and I suspect that is the source of the coolant:
The car has 155,000 miles on it and I think I have the original water pump. Since it looks like a new water pump is in my future, does anyone have a recommendation for a brand and supplier? I've found the following on line:
Graf: $32.39
Meyle: $57.49
Saleri: $36.69
The notes on the Graf state that it has metal impellers. When I replaced the water pump on my Boxster, the advice on the Boxster forums suggested that metal impellers could damage other components if they failed. I don't know whether the same advice also applies to Mercedes.
Also, can someone please confirm that this is the drain for the radiator:
I was originally planning to try to replace just the voltage regulator on my alternator. I found that it was very tight and hard to see what I was doing with the alternator on the car. (I'm not saying the voltage regulator cannot be replaced with the alternator on the car. I am saying it cannot be done by me.) If I have to replace the water pump, I will shift plans slightly and remove the alternator. I will replace the voltage regulator with the alternator off the car and then have it tested before reinstalling it.
Yea, it looks like the seal went on the water pump, and anti-freeze is weeping through the front seal. That's how water pumps start to fail. If left alone, the shaft will wear/rust, and eventually wobble, then break.
MB no longer makes a new water pump. I thought I got a new MB water pump when I did my semi-restore? Maybe it was a MB rebuilt?
Regardless, hopefully, MB has the re-builder use the same quality, or similar quality parts.
So, my advice is go with a MB rebuilt unit.
The original lasted ~150K miles. No reason a rebuilt shouldn't be similar.
As I mentioned, it's the seals that go. So, reusing the housing, shaft and impeller doesn't bother this Mech Engr one bit! :-)
NOTE: GM rebuilt parts are often junk rebuilt parts, outsourced to who ever charges GM less. Many GM shops, and garages, won't even use GM rebuilt cr*p! I do not know anything about MB rebuilt parts. My good connections are all involved with American-iron (GM, Ford) stuff.
Thanks for your response. I appreciate your reasoning. If the replacement can last for 150k miles, I doubt I will need to replace it again.
That is a good price. I searched on the part number and found some others with a slightly lower list price, but free shipping is the equalizer. I'm planning to check with my local dealer and then make a decision.
Fwiw, during a rebuild, for the shaft, they check the looks, straightness, and the diameter.
Imho, the looks is the most important. Rust is, imho, the only thing to worry about with an OEM MB pump shaft. A bent/worn shaft is also very apparent visually.
The bearings of the water pump would be replaced. Again, the reason why most water pumps are replaced is because the seal has leaked. That means that the front bearing has been getting water/antifreeze on/in it. So, it's not to be trusted.
Since the car has an electric fan, there's no fan on the water pump. Unbalanced/bent fans are, imho, a non-trivial cause of water pump failure in other cars. The fan vibrates, the shaft vibrates/flexs, and that wears the seal, and so on.
For some replacement aftermarket GM/Ford water pumps, they have also had impeller failures.
So, the semi-BS $$$ performance "hi-flow" water pumps, now also stress their durability.
Fwiw, I think the retail price of the rebuilt MB water pump is ~$200. :-O
I would bet that any MB dealership would use that water pump in a repair. People have a tendency to keep their MB cars for a while.
So, again, I doubt that it's a low cost rebuild.
Hello, I had the same car, C230K Sportscoupe. I replaced the water pump at roughly 150,000 miles. I used a Saleri, it was working perfectly well 80,00 miles later when i sold the car. The clues were similar. I nursed it for awhile, topping up the coolant, mine did not "explode" only leaked more. The job was a bit of a knuckle buster but not too bad. Yes, that's the Radiator drain. Others on here know more than I, but, I don't think that MB actually makes any water pumps for the C Class nor other ancillary parts. Sub Suppliers by bid make them and tag / stamp / label them accordingly.
I replaced the water pump yesterday. I originally ordered a Saleri, but they were out of stock. I contacted the local MB dealer and they were willing to price match with the eBay seller Red Gray referenced in his post.
I ran into one issue. It appears that the pump had been changed before and the previous mechanic lost one of the fasteners.
The missing fastener is at the 8:00 position in this photo.
There are 7 fasteners that attach the water pump to the car. Five are relatively short E10 torx. I appear to have all of those fasteners. The two larger fastening points are at the 8:00 and 9:00 position in this photo.
The other fastener I had was a longer (approximately 4 inches) E12 Torx. Based on the size of the hole for the missing fastener and its position, I think the missing bolt is also a 4-inch long E12 Torx.
Does anyone know the part number for this fastener?
Last edited by KevinH2000; Jun 7, 2020 at 10:57 AM.
Measure the diameter of the bolt to be sure.
It's likely an M10 bolt (10mm).
It's best to go back to your local dealer, and be ready to pay $$ a single 4" screw.
Figure about $10-$20 for that one bolt! :O
Note, for some reason, the idiot "awesome super great better then you scum Imperial units" people don't know, or seem to care about, the naming difference between a Torx bolt and an ETorx bolt. So, when you search, try searching for torx bolts.
The MB part number that you want is: A0019909003
https://www.mbonlineparts.com/oem-pa...olt-0019909003
Bearing Bolt - Mercedes-Benz (001-990-90-03)
SKU: 001-990-90-03
Positions: Left, Right
Other Names: Screw W Rnd Hexal Head
Description:
Long. M10x100.
Price: $7.50
Shipping: ~$17
Mercedes Torx Bolt Screw M10 x 1.5 x 100 mm Grade 10.9 A0019909003
Pric: $19.98 + $6.53 shipping Arrives: June 24 - July 1
Or, if that MB bolt is not in stock, and you want to get your car on the road before that, the only thing that I found was a regular metric hex-head flange bolt. https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-De...?product=17517
Cost ~$2
~$5 3-7 day shipping
~$12 3-day select shipping
Note, since it's not an aluminum bolt, the you must use anti seize on the bolt.
And, don't keep the bolt in there for longer than you have to.
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-8501AHDWE/1...tuds-Bolts-Kit
1979-93 MUSTANG WATER PUMP STUDS & BOLTS 5.0/5.8 by Daniel Carpenter Reproductions
Pick up this 1979-1993 Mustang water pump stud and bolt kit to replace broken or rusted bolts on your 5.0 motor!
Item #LRS-8501AHDWE
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Also, they are stainless steel bolt kits. That's what I have and use.
Fwiw, even the stainless steel bolts need anti-seize on them, to prevent electrolysis with the iron block, resulting in the block and bolt "becoming one".
Fwiw#2, that's a common problem with the water pumps and iron block engines.
Thanks for the information. I need to bring the old pump back to the dealer for a refund of the core deposit. I will pick up the fastener while I'm there.
This is the second time I've run into the missing fastener issue with the car. When I replaced the spark plugs, each of the coil packs was held in place by one fastener instead of the two that are required. The previous owner was either an irresponsible mechanic or took the car to someone who was. I will admit to dropping a bolt on occasion, but I always look for them and replace them.
Thanks for the tips on the anti-seize and the eBay water pump. I used anti-seize on the bolts. I hope that I don't have to replace the water pump again, but you never know. The original quote from the local dealer was $153.74. After I sent them the link, they agreed to price match and threw in the gasket at no extra charge. I received the pump much more quickly and it will be much easier to redeem the core charge. The after market pumps are significantly less expensive, but I saw a few complaints about poor quality copies. I did hear from someone who had a good experience with Saleri, but that brand was out of stock. Normally, I go for the lowest-priced option, but I have more confidence that the OEM rebuild will allow me to avoid a second replacement.
I contacted the Mercedes dealer where I bought the water pump. Here’s the response I received: Based on the parts descriptions, I show a total of 6 bolts for the water pump. 5 smaller and one longer bolt. I don't have a bolt diagram however, so I don't know exactly where the bolts should go. One thing of interest that I saw was that there is 1 dowel pin listed for the water pump. That would explain the 7 holes and 6 bolts.
I tried to insert a bolt that I obtained from a C230 that I have been scavenging for parts in the empty hole on the water pump. The bolt wouldn’t go in.
This seems odd. I will keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn’t leak.
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Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
