*disclaimer - this is a dangerous job - at any moment your hoist could fail and the engine will fall down, please prepare for this and always support the subframe after removing the bolts. Just pump your oil out of your engine and avoid this all. Nothing failed for me but just be aware of the risks*

Hello, im working my way through these oil pan removal instructions ive found on this forum (pdf attatched), and thought i'd try my best to share my progress, maybe it will help others.

Why? - im new to working on cars, so i didnt use a new washer on the oil pan plug, over tightened it *..crack* ... so i tightened it some more *...crack*. So i've learned a lesson the hard way, in the future i will pump oil out as intended and i am now the proud owner of a torque wrench, and an engine hoist!

The instructions seem detailed enough so the only additions i could make up to now would be:
- the heatshield above the exhaust gasket, i removed the 3 bolts and kind of just bent it around whatever was obstructing it to remove
- loosen the 2 bolts that secure the exhaust under the car for some wiggle room (tighten a quarter turn then loosen.. repeat, very corroded)
- remove exhaust gasket manifold from side of engine
- remove steering column heatshield (while under the car)
- remove the exhaust gasket from the flange above the cat (2 bolts)
- unbolt lower antiroll bar drop links (seems like they will stop subframe from resting on the suspension arms when its lowered)
- i had to bend/move slightly the black pipe and silver pipe going to transmission to free the pan... i was scared i was going to do damage but it went ok
now it seems that the cat/exhaust can remain in place, and the engine can be raised.

The first problem i've noticed is that after doing number 9 "Detach bracket (6) for power steering pressure line (7) from front axle carrier (5)" i could see that this pipe goes under the subframe, and connects to something after it (seen in my picture)

power steering line under / through subframe

This means that the range of motion i can get by lowering the subframe is limited to not over stretching this power steering line, right?

Tomorrow morning i will have a look again. Im currently using an engine hoist to raise the engine (subframe still attached) and remove as many bolts as i can get at. I've also read people have had success taking off the protective panel directly below the steering rack to access more bolts, ive not looked into that yet. Any input here would be greatly appreciated, ill update this with pictures of my progress through the week

Update*
I now have all the bolts out of the oil pan without removing the subframe but it seems like i will need to because theres just not enough room to slide the pan out- make sure you count the bolt holes on your new oil pan and compare to what you have removed, i missed one because it was hidden behind a pipe thats connected to the bell housing.

bolt hidden behind pipe @ bell housing (remove the 2 bolted clamp to free the bolt behind the pipe

keep track of your bolts with cardboard. and count them. 31 i believe (not counting the bolts that are just used for pipe brackets etc i screw those into my new pan)


used a big rusty chisel @ the pan wedge point next to the radiator fan / under serp. belt to separate the pan after double checking all bolts are removed!

my leaking brake vacuum pump wanted to say hello (oil on top of bell housing-) seems like the metal gasket is corroded. i purchased a new one from germany, instead of an o ring repair kit from USA - not cheap, but quicker for me

 

The reason i have not dropped the subframe yet is because if you do that, you have to finish the job because your engine hoist must hold the engine up and i dont feel comfortable leaving my hoist on the street overnight.. so i do it in stages - use the hoist - remove some bolts - lower the engine - store the hoist away and come back the next day

 

Tried to lower the subframe today, supported it with 2 jacks, i removed 2 on the right side, then i tried the front left ... not moving. so i tried the back left and it got a turn no problems. I then put all the bolts back and torqued to 100nm, maybe my jacks where uneven, who knows. Attempted to get the stuck bolt off, this time with a big breaker bar... i got one crack, but the bolt is not any looser. trying again, and rounded the bolt kind of. disaster. im guessing its rusted on there.... i will try again tomorrow but i think i might have to drill and tap it.

* i have some long bolts the same thread size as the subframe bolts. im going to use them as guides , so i can lower and raise the subframe and have more chances of it lining up in the end. (if only that bolt wasnt stuck, id have pictures already of the completed job ! lol)

 

That sucks. Did you use the proper e-torx socket?

 

I will double check tomorrow with a clear mind. There is still enough head on the bolt for another try. The bolt is surprisingly small, i was maybe using an e14 or e12 (just a guess) but thanks, i will make sure no smaller can fit on it. My plan of action for tomorrow will be jacking up the subframe as near as possible to that bolt.. double check to correct size socket... tap it a few times with a hammer... and attempt a turn. i should buy a blowtorch but i bet i still have to drill it out.

It's never easy so im not surprised. I've already had to drill one of the anti roll bar clamp bolts out and tap a new hole... because i wanted to replace the rubber bushing which i had already purchased, only to find out that they are fused to the roll bar and not removable on my specific model lol im learning alot about fixing cars atleast

 

So today i purchased some bolt remover sockets, but i couldnt get a good purchase on the bolt head (i guess you have to smash them on with a hammer) BUT the show must go on! i decided to remove the other 3 bolts and 'bend' the subframe slightly - luckily enough, there was enough room to remove the oil pan .

I removed the engine hoist hook at the back of the engine and used the 2 front ones to raise the engine as much as possible - there is a hose that you can over stretch , i think power steering , its at the front of the engine on the right side. BUT the oil filter will be touching the firewall before that, so stop when that happens.

New oil pan is in -

3/4 subframe bolts out - it rests on the suspension - all ive done is remove the roll bar from lower drop link

My tip - find a long bolt same size/thread and use it as your guide for lowering / raising the subframe back in to place.

now i just have to torque all the bolts to spec as per the pdf instructions . if it leaks im driving this car straight to the scrap yard haha!

pdf of oil pan sealant patterns for multiple pans (i found on this forum somewhere also)

 

Let this thread be a lesson to anyone who wants to remove/install a drain plug on an m271 engine! just buy a pump and avoid any risk! Now lets have a good laugh and look at the old pan


Look at how deformed the copper washer is haha

 

The washer is designed to deform a certain amount when the bolt is torqued.

Look at that crack in the pan.